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Official LNXXA650 Calibration/Settings Thread - Page 126

post #3751 of 3905
Quote:
Originally Posted by xxmastermushxx View Post

Does anyone else experience "light" blacks for the LNA650 in an ambient light free room. i.e. During District 9 when it gets dark and Wikus is running from MNU and finds safety in a prawn shack. Through that whole scene where it's dark, the blacks seem, well, sorta gray black. I just want to put my mind to rest because it's stressing me out, there's only a few more days of warranty left on my display.

This could depend on the source material (some movies even on Blu-Ray have awful blacks in scenes) or how high you have brightness. what calibration settings do you use for your tv? Your own? Kaki's? Bill's?
post #3752 of 3905
I have My xbox connected to HDMI2/PC and My PS3 connected to HDMI 3
I have been using felonyr301 and Kaki's settings for My PS3 for Movies and My Xbox for Gaming...
My question is ...Should I be using HDMI2/PC for My Xbox or another HDMI port ????
Any suggestions would be appreciated.........
post #3753 of 3905
Quote:
Originally Posted by III Zombi3 III View Post

I have My xbox connected to HDMI2/PC and My PS3 connected to HDMI 3
I have been using felonyr301 and Kaki's settings for My PS3 for Movies and My Xbox for Gaming...
My question is ...Should I be using HDMI2/PC for My Xbox or another HDMI port ????
Any suggestions would be appreciated.........

Which settings are you referring to exactly?
post #3754 of 3905
Quote:
Originally Posted by felonyr301 View Post

Which settings are you referring to exactly?

I have been using these for my Xbox....

felonyr301 Gaming Mode Standard Mode (Dark Room Setting) Gaming (360)- Expanded, 1080p, RGB
Backlight 3 (Up to you)
Contrast 100
Brightness 46
Sharpness 50 (Up to you)
Color 54
Tint G52/R48

BA -OFF
DC - OFF
Gamma +1
Color Space: Kaki's Custom Settings
White Balance: Kaki's Custom Settings
Flesh 0
Edge Enhancement On
xvYCC On ( Try the trick I said to have this on while on standard mode)

Color Tone: Normal
HDM1 Black Level: Normal
Blue - off
AMP:Off (at most use low if you want certain things)

Energy Saver: Off

Biggest thing is gamma; at -1 it is too dark and for movies warm 2 is better for films and normal for games. xvYCC is on both just need to make sure you do the trick for standard to have it on and always turn it off and on when restarting your tv or switching modes since the effect turns off even if it is set to on.
Cinema mode with energy saver off is very good for movies if anyone cares and for using game mode use it with energy saver on medium it looks way better than HDMI2/PC.

The reason I was asking is that I have My Xbox setup as HDMI2/PC and I noticed that you said it looks better than HDMI2/PC.

Here is the settings that I have been using for My PS3. They are Pipios Settings, Sorry....

Pipio's Movie Settings for Bluray/Ps3 Movies Only as of 12/10/08

Blacklight - 4
Contrast - 100
Brightness - 46
Sharpness - 3
Color - 54
Tint - G52/R48

Detailes Settings:

Black adjust - OFF
Dynamic contrast - OFF
Gamma - -1
Color Space - Custom ( Kakimotorift's ):

Red
R = 55
G = 0
B =0
Green
R = 4
G = 57
B = 0
Blue
R = 5
G = 0
B = 56
Yellow
R = 56
G = 52
B = 0
Cyan
R = 3
G = 46
B = 47
Magenta
R = 44
G = 0
B = 48

Flesh Tone - 0
Edge Enhancement - OFF
xvYCC - ON

WHITE BALANCE ( Kakimotorift's )

R-Offset = 27
G-Offset = 25
B-Offset = 24
R-Gain = 18
G-Gain = 25
B-Gain = 29

Picture Options:

Color Tone - Warm1
Digital N/R - Off
HDMI Black Level - Normal
Auto Motion Plus - Low
Blue Mode - Off

Energy Saving - Auto
post #3755 of 3905
Quote:
Originally Posted by RamzaBehoulve View Post

Hey,

I just tested going between Bill's movie settings and standard, normally kaki's settings, and I could not find any setting that would not change from one to another. Even white balance and colors (cyan, etc..) changed along with the selected type. I, however, experienced a 2-3min lag for my eyes to adjust correctly to the change.

I also tried Bill's 601 and of course DVD looked better..but Blu-Ray went into the shmuck... I'll just prioritise HD sources whenever I can from now on because I don't feel reconfiguring colors everytime I switch between SD and HD...

Hey RamzaBehoulve,

So I tried switching between Standard & Movie modes and I can store separate settings for everything except for the Custom Colors (i.e. Red, Blue, Green, Cyan, etc.) - those are always the same for the two modes on my TV which prevents me from using Kaki's specifically for Gaming (using Standard mode) and Bill's for watching Blu-rays (using Movie mode). So what I decided to do is a "best of both worlds" approach and came up with something I like...at least for now until I can sample more sources. I've done very limited testing so far so bare with me but I'll update again on Wednesday as I'm planning on watching a few films tomorrow night.

First, I set up Movie mode using Bill's settings from the left-hand column as I've discussed in my posts previously since I'm more concerned with accurate or better-looking blu-ray quality over DVD. Everything is exactly as he has it listed (brightness, contrast, custom colors, white balance, etc.) with one exception - I prefer using the Energy Saving mode of Auto.

Next, I set my Standard mode using Kaki's BDP-80 settings (NOT the PS3 settings which I was using before). I wanted to see just how well they fared for gaming. I used everything Kaki specified but since I can't change my custom colors, I kept Bill's but everything else (including the +1 for gamma and white balance from Kaki's) I used. I decided to set HDMI level to "HDMI Normal" on the TV and I set the PS3 to "HDMI Full" on the PS3 and the Super-White setting (also on the PS3) to "On".

If I decide that I really like this setup, I'll post the numbers to make it a little easier for others to try out and get some additional feedback. These settings are still primarily Kaki's and Bill's settings...I just sort of combined them just to see the result.

Cheers!

NM2K4

P.S. Forgot to add that I've also got xvYCC enabled on the TV and on my receiver as well.
post #3756 of 3905
Quote:
Originally Posted by III Zombi3 III View Post

I have been using these for my Xbox....

felonyr301 Gaming Mode Standard Mode (Dark Room Setting) Gaming (360)- Expanded, 1080p, RGB
Backlight 3 (Up to you)
Contrast 100
Brightness 46
Sharpness 50 (Up to you)
Color 54
Tint G52/R48

BA -OFF
DC - OFF
Gamma +1
Color Space: Kaki's Custom Settings
White Balance: Kaki's Custom Settings
Flesh 0
Edge Enhancement On
xvYCC On ( Try the trick I said to have this on while on standard mode)

Color Tone: Normal
HDM1 Black Level: Normal
Blue - off
AMP:Off (at most use low if you want certain things)

Energy Saver: Off

Biggest thing is gamma; at -1 it is too dark and for movies warm 2 is better for films and normal for games. xvYCC is on both just need to make sure you do the trick for standard to have it on and always turn it off and on when restarting your tv or switching modes since the effect turns off even if it is set to on.
Cinema mode with energy saver off is very good for movies if anyone cares and for using game mode use it with energy saver on medium it looks way better than HDMI2/PC.

The reason I was asking is that I have My Xbox setup as HDMI2/PC and I noticed that you said it looks better than HDMI2/PC.

Here is the settings that I have been using for My PS3. They are Pipios Settings, Sorry....

Pipio's Movie Settings for Bluray/Ps3 Movies Only as of 12/10/08

Blacklight - 4
Contrast - 100
Brightness - 46
Sharpness - 3
Color - 54
Tint - G52/R48

Detailes Settings:

Black adjust - OFF
Dynamic contrast - OFF
Gamma - -1
Color Space - Custom ( Kakimotorift's ):

Red
R = 55
G = 0
B =0
Green
R = 4
G = 57
B = 0
Blue
R = 5
G = 0
B = 56
Yellow
R = 56
G = 52
B = 0
Cyan
R = 3
G = 46
B = 47
Magenta
R = 44
G = 0
B = 48

Flesh Tone - 0
Edge Enhancement - OFF
xvYCC - ON

WHITE BALANCE ( Kakimotorift's )

R-Offset = 27
G-Offset = 25
B-Offset = 24
R-Gain = 18
G-Gain = 25
B-Gain = 29

Picture Options:

Color Tone - Warm1
Digital N/R - Off
HDMI Black Level - Normal
Auto Motion Plus - Low
Blue Mode - Off

Energy Saving - Auto

Aww yes these are what I used a long time ago I have changed my settings and finally have been getting used to a more accurate picture on my TV as well. I'll post my settings up soon...

So far I have done a quick calibration with using the auto colorspace setting... Need some free time and do one with custom colors... it ain't easy

Biggest thing is that I use a D6500k standard for both movies and gaming now and prefer it that way for games now too. So I don't use game mode anymore...

One thing though is that I never noticed too much input lag with gaming on the xbox 360 with HDMI unless I was playing online FPS games like Halo or COD MF and even then not much.

The settings I came to now I have been able to match almost exactly with HDMI2/PC mode and it looks great now.

Like I have said before I have gotten used to a softer more accurate picture so the low sharpness of HDMI2/PC mode is pretty accurate on my TV compared to my calibrated settings.

But HDMI2/PC mode seems to use like a cheap anti-aliasing effect which works great to some games where you see too much jagged edges on objects in game.

For PS3 Blu-ray movies I'm still working on it but its pretty close to what I use for the Xbox 360.
post #3757 of 3905
Thanks for the help, cant wait to see your new settings.....
post #3758 of 3905
If I calibrate this TV based on a bluray reference disc, or even using the PS3 settings posted on here... should that be enough for all inputs? Or will I have to re-calibrate for the input that my cable box uses as well?
post #3759 of 3905
*UPDATE*


Movie Mode (PS3) RGB Mode Limited; Super White Turned On; YCbCr On for Blu-ray/DVD



Blacklight - 3 (Up to you)
Contrast - 96
Brightness - 48



Sharpness - 10
Color - 46
Tint - G50/R50

Detailed Settings:

Black adjust - OFF
Dynamic contrast - OFF
Gamma - -2 (yes negative 2)
Color Space - Auto
*Still working on one with custom calibration but need some free time*

Flesh Tone - 0
Edge Enhancement - OFF
xvYCC - Off

WHITE BALANCE




R-Offset = 27 *Update*
G-Offset = 25
B-Offset = 24
R-Gain = 18
G-Gain = 25
B-Gain = 29

Picture Options:

Color Tone - Warm2

*Must be Warm2 with the above White Balance Settings for D6500k if coming from normal precalibration then u will hate it just adjust to it*


Digital N/R - Off
HDMI Black Level - Low (DVDS and Blu-rays will be disabled at Normal)
Auto Motion Plus - Off (up to you)
Blue Mode - Off

Energy Saving - Off (up to you) (Calibrated with it Off )









(Xbox 360 HDMI2/PC Mode Only for now) Use these where u can apply it; it did matched up well with these settings when I ran it the setting. Xbox 360 Reference Level set to Expanded and Resolution to 1080p not Optimal.
*Just transfer from PS3 calibrated settings to PC Mode* You can do it for PS3 1080p games too if you want seems to look well for it* ***PS3 with HDMI2/PC mode must have RGB set to Full on the PS3***

Blacklight - 3 (Up to You)
Contrast - 96
Brightness - 48



Sharpness - 20 (DISABLED)
Color - 50 (DISABLED)
Tint - G50/R50 (DISABLED)

Detailed Settings:

Black adjust - OFF
Dynamic contrast - OFF
Gamma - -2 (yes negative 2)
Color Space - Auto (DISABLED)


Flesh Tone - 0
Edge Enhancement - OFF
xvYCC - Off

WHITE BALANCE




R-Offset = 27 *Update*
G-Offset = 25
B-Offset = 24
R-Gain = 18
G-Gain = 25
B-Gain = 29

Picture Options:

Color Tone - Warm2

*Must be Warm2 with the above White Balance Settings for D6500k if coming from normal precalibration then u will hate it just adjust to it*


Digital N/R - Off
HDMI Black Level - (Disabled at Normal for HDMI2/PC)
Auto Motion Plus - Off (up to you)
Blue Mode - Off

Energy Saving - Off (up to you) (Calibrated with it Off )















For HD Cable with Component Cable connection I use PS3 settings but Backlight is 4, and Contrast is 90 with Brightness at 52 and looks really good to me. Only thing sucks is that u cant calibrate for Cable TV so out of luck there.

Remember 360 is for HDMI2/PC mode only...

Still working on the custom calibration (basically a full calibration with the eye-one)... Too busy with school and work...

*PS3 is meant for Blu-ray movies so don't know how good it came out for gaming since games on the PS3 are forced to be played back to RGB not YCbCr so just put it on RGB Limited and TV HDMI Black Level at Low.*
post #3760 of 3905
"Calibrated Under" Movie Mode Warm1 with AVS HD 709 For HDTV REC709 Standard + ColorHCFR + x-rite Eye-One Display 2 + "PS3" + AudioQuest HDMI-X + Studio Level 16~235 Calibration + Static Type Purpose + CIE94

KakiColor® Calibration ver.090802vB_PS3 HDMI High Definition (Build Version Beta)

♠PS3 Settings♠ Below Best to be used with PS3 ---------------------------------------------------------------

Backlight = 0~10 (Your Option) I recommend Movie 0~3, Standard 5~10. (Calibrated with Backlight @ 0)
Contrast = 100★ (Don't Touch)
Brightness = 44 (Don't Touch)
Sharpness = 20 (Your Option) (I have Sharpness set @ 0)
Color = 51 (Don't Touch)
Tint = G50/R50 (Don't Touch)

DETAILED SETTINGS
Black Adjust = Off★ (You choices)
Dynamic Contrast = Off★ (Your choices)
*Note: For ppl who wanna use Dynamic Type please only use Black Adjust Low + Dynamic Contrast Low together only!
Gamma = +1 (Don't Touch)
Color Space = Custom (Don't Touch)
xvYCC = Off (Don't Touch, unless the material supports xvYCC.)

[Primary Colors - Important for Everything]
Red
R = 47
G = 0
B =0
Green
R = 24
G = 56
B = 0
Blue
R = 12
G = 0
B = 58
[Secondary Colors - Very Important for Accurate Skin Tones]
Yellow
R = 48
G = 55
B = 0
Cyan
R = 21
G = 51
B = 60
Magenta
R =47
G = 0
B = 49

Flesh Tone = 0
Edge Enhancement = On/Off (Whichever You Favor) (Personally have it Off for Movie/Videos and Off for Standard/Gaming) Calibrated with it Off
xvYCC = Off

WHITE BALANCE (Don't Touch)
R-Offset = 27
G-Offset = 25
B-Offset = 26
R-Gain = 22
G-Gain = 25
B-Gain = 29

PICTURE OPTIONS
Color Tone = Warm1 (Don't Touch) (Calibrated under Warm1, I use "warm1" for Movie/Video and "Cool1" for Standard/Gaming)
Digital N/R = Off (Personally have it set on Off) Calibrated with it Off
AutoMotionPlus/Movie Plus = High (Your Option) Calibrated with it Off
Blue Mode = Off

Energy Saving = Medium (Calibrated with it Off) Personally have Energy Saving on Medium with Backlight 3 for Movie and Backlight 5 for Standard for the Plasma-Look.
Entertainment modes = Off

+PS3 RGB Range (HDMI) -> "Limited (16~235)" (Don't Touch)
+PS3 Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Super-White (HDMI) -> "On" (Don't Touch)
+BD/DVD Video Output Format (HDMI) -> Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr (Don't Touch)

I use this setting

My question i want to know?
1.When i play game i should open dynamic contrast and black adjust?
2.I use to play the game rgb i should use rgb limit or rgb full?
3.This setting i should to upgrade setting for the best for game?
4.When i use to look movies blu-ray or hi-def(connect with pc but i use ycbcr mode).I should use sharpness or Edge Enhancement?
Thank you
post #3761 of 3905
When I use Output Format (HDMI) -> Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr I get horrendously crushed blacks, no matter what I try. I have to watch BluRays in RGB mode to avoid crushed blacks!

My test for crushed blacks is the "I am terribly vexed" scene in Gladiator. At the the start of that scene, there is a zoom in to a big oak table. With RGB, there is full detail in the carved legs of the table. With Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr, the legs are a pure black mass!

Any ideas? RGB on BluRay looks pretty good to me though.
post #3762 of 3905
It's been a week since Jeff (umr), from AccuCal, calibrated our A650 and surround sound. I wanted to take the time to watch a variety of programming before sharing my experience. To put it simply, I love the results and definitely feel it was worth the money!

We had the TV a year before I called Jeff. During that time I tried various posted settings (CNET, Zerog's, Gmoove's, etc.), calibrated with THX Optimizer from Monster's, Inc. DVD with color filter glasses, and even used the AVSForum's AVCHD calibration disc, but the picture never really "popped". Sure, there were moments when I was really impressed by the picture, but it wasn't a regular basis. Gattaca, Bourne Trilogy, Transformers blurays looked good, but I expected more. I couldn't put my finger on it, exactly, but no matter what setting I tried, movies and programs continued to lack punch or depth, it either looked flat or details got lost in the shadows and dark scenes. Definitely looked better than standard definition, of course, but I just knew the set could perform better and felt I had exhausted all the low-cost options.

It wasn't an easy decision to pay for calibration. I wasn't impressed with BestBuy's attempt at calibration, to say the least, and what if I didn't like the results or didn't see much difference after calibration? Reading how so many others were satisfied with Jeff's work, I figured if I'm going to consider calibration, might as well find the best in the business. I had to get on a waiting list for Jeff's next tour to the west coast, but it was worth the 3-4 month wait. I am grateful that Jeff tours the country because there's no way our TV was going to Missouri to be calibrated!

The whole process took about 4 hours (2.5 hrs on the TV). We discussed a variety of topics and it was very clear Jeff knew what he was talking about. Not only did he come very prepared with quality gear, but even carries a battery-operated portable printer to print you a report of the pre and post-calibration results. As a fellow engineer, I can really appreciate the attention to detail. Through talking with Jeff, I gained a greater appreciation of why color accuracy is important and what calibration is intended to do. Calibration allows your TV to display the image as close to the source as possible, the way it was intended to be viewed. Only later did I realize the "pop" in picture quality that I was after would naturally come as a result of better color accuracy and grayscale!

After Jeff's calibration, my contrast level went from 998:1 to 3624:1 and must say the difference is startling! Of course directors & producers don't intend to deliver a flat looking image, so it couldn't be the source. Once our Samsung was able to display colors and grayscale accurately, the contrast shot up and the picture really came to life! Even OTA HD shows such as American Idol and the Bachelor (first time watching it cause of the various scenic locations this season) look noticeably better. The difference in contrast and color is simply amazing. Textures and people on-screen exhibit more depth and really appear to pop off the screen. OK, maybe not to a 3D degree, but there's a much stronger sense of realism on-screen.

I'm just floored at the difference. None of my individual efforts could match Jeff's calibration work. His service is not cheap, but I feel it's a great value. In this case, the picture quality on our TV speaks for itself, but I also have the peace of mind knowing the settings are as close to D65 and a perfect Gamma, as I'm gonna get. I apologize for the lengthy read, but hope it inspires others to save towards professional calibration, you won't be disappointed!

EDIT: At htwaits request, I'll touch on the audio calibration. Totally forgot to comment on it before and already felt this post was too long. I really should have wrote more about the audio because, ironically, I was even more blown away by the sound calibration. We have a Denon AVR-789 and originally relied on the Audyssey auto setup, but it didn't sound right. I posted a few times in the Energy speaker & Denon threads and read through batpig's tutorials to improve the sound. I thought it sounded good, but often the center channel was too low for movie dialogue and i'd have to crank it from the default +5.5 all the way to +11. This should've produced a very loud center channel, but the real effect was only marginally louder. Jeff was able to measure the speaker response across all 5.1 channels and balance out the sound. It made a tremendous difference! The cumulative effect was a more even, smoother delivery of sound. Dialogue and effects blended more seamlessly and it all just felt, well, more natural. The sub didn't overpower and wasn't too boomy anymore. I no longer had to up the center channel to hear the dialogue. The best part is that the volume doesn't suddenly jump during commercials. Although Jeff admitted that the difference between program and commercial volume will still persist due to the source, I've noticed the difference is much more subtle now when going to commercial.

Jeff's experience allowed him to calibrate the audio pretty quickly and easily, but I'm so glad I went ahead and did it at the same time as the TV because I never would've thought to adjust the audio parameters that he did. It's a great experience when the audio and picture complement each other.
post #3763 of 3905
You paid for a professional calibration on the A650? How much did it cost?! I have a bad feeling that for the same price you could have upgraded to an LED-based LCD and achieved much of the same result.

No way would I spend money to calibrate a TV that has backlight bleed/uniformity issues (which the A650 definitely has), knowing that I could go buy an LED based LCD and resolve these issues while improving the contrast "pop".

But that's just my opinion.... Glad you're satisfied with the results. Would be pretty bad if you weren't!
post #3764 of 3905
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flavius View Post

You paid for a professional calibration on the A650? How much did it cost?! I have a bad feeling that for the same price you could have upgraded to an LED-based LCD and achieved much of the same result.

No way would I spend money to calibrate a TV that has backlight bleed/uniformity issues (which the A650 definitely has), knowing that I could go buy an LED based LCD and resolve these issues while improving the contrast "pop".

But that's just my opinion.... Glad you're satisfied with the results. Would be pretty bad if you weren't!

And it is wrong.
post #3765 of 3905
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrqAddq View Post

...

After Jeff's calibration, my contrast level went from 998:1 to 3624:1 and must say the difference is startling! Of course directors & producers don't intend to deliver a flat looking image, so it couldn't be the source. Once our Samsung was able to display colors and grayscale accurately, the contrast shot up and the picture really came to life! Even OTA HD shows such as American Idol and the Bachelor (first time watching it cause of the various scenic locations this season) look noticeably better. The difference in contrast and color is simply amazing. Textures and people on-screen exhibit more depth and really appear to pop off the screen. OK, maybe not to a 3D degree, but there's a much stronger sense of realism on-screen.

I'm just floored at the difference. None of my individual efforts could match Jeff's calibration work. His service is not cheap, but I feel it's a great value. In this case, the picture quality on our TV speaks for itself, but I also have the peace of mind knowing the settings are as close to D65 and a perfect Gamma, as I'm gonna get. I apologize for the lengthy read, but hope it inspires others to save towards professional calibration, you won't be disappointed!

Thanks. It was my pleasure.
post #3766 of 3905
Quote:
Originally Posted by umr View Post

And it is wrong.

Thanks for letting me know.
post #3767 of 3905
Quote:
Originally Posted by TKI View Post

This could depend on the source material (some movies even on Blu-Ray have awful blacks in scenes) or how high you have brightness. what calibration settings do you use for your tv? Your own? Kaki's? Bill's?

Sorry, forgot all about this. I tried Kaki's and Bill's, plus I got DVE (blu-ray) and calibrated it my self, doesn't seem to make a difference though. What really worries be though is when I put all the settings to 0 like contrast, back-light, brightness the picture always has that "back-light bleed through" effect. Is this normal? Are the blacks usually as black as the bezel when watching a movie with good black levels? One other thing, I've noticed that even with a fully light room I can see the screen difference compared to the bezel when watching a fully black picture or even half black. Again, sorry about not responding.
post #3768 of 3905
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flavius View Post

You paid for a professional calibration on the A650? How much did it cost?! I have a bad feeling that for the same price you could have upgraded to an LED-based LCD and achieved much of the same result.

No way would I spend money to calibrate a TV that has backlight bleed/uniformity issues (which the A650 definitely has), knowing that I could go buy an LED based LCD and resolve these issues while improving the contrast "pop".

But that's just my opinion.... Glad you're satisfied with the results. Would be pretty bad if you weren't!


I can definitely understand the appeal of LED, but that alone doesn't guarantee a perfect picture out of the box. The fact that CNET calibrates all of the sets they review, yet the settings posted for their A650 review are all different (except for gamma) from my calibrated settings, demonstrates variances in how same model sets perform.

As for the cost of calibration being equal to the step up to LED, that's not necessarily valid unless you're suggesting I went without my A650 for the past year and took that money, plus cost of calibration, to get an LED set today. Because at the time, backlight LED was at least twice what I paid for our A650 at the same size. Not only that, today's LED models are commonly edge lit, sacrificing some of the advantages of backlit LED. It's been said before in one form or another, better to enjoy life than keep chasing the next best thing.

I'm not gonna tell you how to spend your hard earned money and if an LED set will make you happier, my congrats to you. Was just trying to help those that may be on the fence regarding professional calibration, as I was very skeptical at first, as well.
post #3769 of 3905
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrqAddq View Post

I can definitely understand the appeal of LED, but that alone doesn't guarantee a perfect picture out of the box. The fact that CNET calibrates all of the sets they review, yet the settings posted for their A650 review are all different (except for gamma) from my calibrated settings, demonstrates variances in how same model sets perform.

As for the cost of calibration being equal to the step up to LED, that's not necessarily valid unless you're suggesting I went without my A650 for the past year and took that money, plus cost of calibration, to get an LED set today. Because at the time, backlight LED was at least twice what I paid for our A650 at the same size. Not only that, today's LED models are commonly edge lit, sacrificing some of the advantages of backlit LED. It's been said before in one form or another, better to enjoy life than keep chasing the next best thing.

I'm not gonna tell you how to spend your hard earned money and if an LED set will make you happier, my congrats to you. Was just trying to help those that may be on the fence regarding professional calibration, as I was very skeptical at first, as well.

Interesting so your end result got you to use a gamma of +3 just like CNET... I know every set is different but there are the only two people sets that have been calibrated which resulted to gamma of +3 that I have seen from these forums and many professional sites whom calibrate the A650 and only yours besides CNET used gamma of +3.

I ended up with gamma of -2 but I'm still a noob and still learning so maybe it might be different the more I get better.
post #3770 of 3905
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrqAddq View Post

It's been a week since Jeff (umr), from AccuCal, calibrated our A650 and surround sound.

Thanks for your calibration report. I've included it in the flat panel (Post#2) list that's linked at the bottom of my post.

It would be great if you could use the "edit" command to include some comments about your reaction to having your audio calibrated.

EDIT: I don't recommend edge lit LED displays to any of my friends. In fact, I've never recommended any LED display. Maybe someday, but not now.
post #3771 of 3905
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Thanks for your calibration report. I've included it in the flat panel (Post#2) list that's linked at the bottom of my post.

It would be great if you could use the "edit" command to include some comments about your reaction to having your audio calibrated.

EDIT: I don't recommend edge lit LED displays to any of my friends. In fact, I've never recommended any LED display. Maybe someday, but not now.


Nice collection of calibration reviews, htwaits! I went back and added my thoughts of the audio calibration in my original post. Thanks for the suggestion!
post #3772 of 3905
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrqAddq View Post

Nice collection of calibration reviews, htwaits! I went back and added my thoughts of the audio calibration in my original post. Thanks for the suggestion!

You're welcome. Those who feel that good audio is just as important as good PQ are always interested in reading owner's impressions.
post #3773 of 3905
"Calibrated Under" Movie Mode Warm1 with AVS HD 709 For HDTV REC709 Standard + ColorHCFR + x-rite Eye-One Display 2 + "PS3" + AudioQuest HDMI-X + Studio Level 16~235 Calibration + Static Type Purpose + CIE94

KakiColor® Calibration ver.090802vB_PS3 HDMI High Definition (Build Version Beta)

♠PS3 Settings♠ Below Best to be used with PS3 ---------------------------------------------------------------

Backlight = 0~10 (Your Option) I recommend Movie 0~3, Standard 5~10. (Calibrated with Backlight @ 0)
Contrast = 100★ (Don't Touch)
Brightness = 44 (Don't Touch)
Sharpness = 20 (Your Option) (I have Sharpness set @ 0)
Color = 51 (Don't Touch)
Tint = G50/R50 (Don't Touch)

DETAILED SETTINGS
Black Adjust = Off★ (You choices)
Dynamic Contrast = Off★ (Your choices)
*Note: For ppl who wanna use Dynamic Type please only use Black Adjust Low + Dynamic Contrast Low together only!
Gamma = +1 (Don't Touch)
Color Space = Custom (Don't Touch)
xvYCC = Off (Don't Touch, unless the material supports xvYCC.)

[Primary Colors - Important for Everything]
Red
R = 47
G = 0
B =0
Green
R = 24
G = 56
B = 0
Blue
R = 12
G = 0
B = 58
[Secondary Colors - Very Important for Accurate Skin Tones]
Yellow
R = 48
G = 55
B = 0
Cyan
R = 21
G = 51
B = 60
Magenta
R =47
G = 0
B = 49

Flesh Tone = 0
Edge Enhancement = On/Off (Whichever You Favor) (Personally have it Off for Movie/Videos and Off for Standard/Gaming) Calibrated with it Off
xvYCC = Off

WHITE BALANCE (Don't Touch)
R-Offset = 27
G-Offset = 25
B-Offset = 26
R-Gain = 22
G-Gain = 25
B-Gain = 29

PICTURE OPTIONS
Color Tone = Warm1 (Don't Touch) (Calibrated under Warm1, I use "warm1" for Movie/Video and "Cool1" for Standard/Gaming)
Digital N/R = Off (Personally have it set on Off) Calibrated with it Off
AutoMotionPlus/Movie Plus = High (Your Option) Calibrated with it Off
Blue Mode = Off

Energy Saving = Medium (Calibrated with it Off) Personally have Energy Saving on Medium with Backlight 3 for Movie and Backlight 5 for Standard for the Plasma-Look.
Entertainment modes = Off

+PS3 RGB Range (HDMI) -> "Limited (16~235)" (Don't Touch)
+PS3 Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Super-White (HDMI) -> "On" (Don't Touch)
+BD/DVD Video Output Format (HDMI) -> Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr (Don't Touch)

I use this setting

My question i want to know?
1.When i play game i should open dynamic contrast and black adjust?
2.I use to play the game rgb i should use rgb limit or rgb full?
3.This setting i should to upgrade setting for the best for game?
4.When i use to look movies blu-ray or hi-def(connect with pc but i use ycbcr mode).I should use sharpness or Edge Enhancement?
Thank you
post #3774 of 3905
What settings would you guys recommend using with a Sammy BD-P2500 (blu-ray player) and LN52A650 at low ambient light? Here's what I have of now: Hooked up Via HDMI cable 1.3b

Picture Mode: Movie
Backlight: 0
Contrast: 95 (not sure if I should use 100)
Brightness: 46
Sharpness: 10
Color: 50
Tint G/R: G50/R50

Detailed settings

Black adjust: Medium
Dynamic contrast: off
Gamma: -1
Color space: Custom
R....G....B
R: 23/0/0
G: 33/38/0
B: 0/0/43
Y: 43/43/0
C: 0/46/48
M: 27/0/45

White Balance:
R-offset 26
G-offset 25
B-offset 25

R-gain 13
G-gain 25
B-gain 15

Edge enhancement: Off
xvYCC: On

Picture settings

Color tone: Warm2
Size: Just scan
Digital NR: Auto
DNIe: Grayed out
HDMI black level: Grayed out
Film mode: Grayed out
Blue only mode: Off
Auto motion plus (120 Hz): High

Setup

Entertainment: Off
Energy saver: High (redundant at 0 backlight)

BD-p2500

Resolution: 1080p
Sharpness: Medium
post #3775 of 3905
Quote:
Originally Posted by xxmastermushxx View Post

What settings would you guys recommend using with a Sammy BD-P2500 (blu-ray player) and LN52A650 at low ambient light? Here's what I have of now: Hooked up Via HDMI cable 1.3b

Picture Mode: Movie
Backlight: 0
Contrast: 95 (not sure if I should use 100)
Brightness: 46
Sharpness: 10
Color: 50
Tint G/R: G50/R50

Detailed settings

Black adjust: Medium
Dynamic contrast: off
Gamma: -1
Color space: Custom
R....G....B
R: 23/0/0
G: 33/38/0
B: 0/0/43
Y: 43/43/0
C: 0/46/48
M: 27/0/45

White Balance:
R-offset 26
G-offset 25
B-offset 25

R-gain 13
G-gain 25
B-gain 15

Edge enhancement: Off
xvYCC: On

Picture settings

Color tone: Warm2
Size: Just scan
Digital NR: Auto
DNIe: Grayed out
HDMI black level: Grayed out
Film mode: Grayed out
Blue only mode: Off
Auto motion plus (120 Hz): High

Setup

Entertainment: Off
Energy saver: High (redundant at 0 backlight)

BD-p2500

Resolution: 1080p
Sharpness: Medium

Sorry, but theses settings look horrible on my 650, are you sure you have the sammy a650?
post #3776 of 3905
Can anyone tell me, when I am calibrating my 650 with the HCFR prog. & the i1, if by setting my contrast @ the 10 IRE to .0065% of my "Y" @ 100% IRE, does it set the contrast across the scale (0-100) more correctly than if you used the AVSDisc flashing bars to set your contrast? I know that the .0065% method correctly sets my Gamma at the 2.22 setting at the 10 IRE but is this the preferred method to set your contrast for the TV?

Thanks for any help.
Bob

P.S.: Does anyone know if there is a "Service Manual" for the LN46A650 and where to purchase it?
post #3777 of 3905
Ack! I havent been on this thread in months but I wanted to check back in for some new Kaki settings and not only do I see he isnt calibrating for PS3 anymore, all of the old posts with the latest settings are deleted!? What happened? What is a guy to do? What are the latest and greatest settings? Any help on gaming lag? I mostly play Madden and Call of Duty. We still stuck with gaming mode to reduce lag? (PC mode looks terrible and washed out!) Anyone recommend a good professional calibration service in the Phoenix area? Cost?
post #3778 of 3905
For anyone that needs a brighter mode or something... calibrated standard mode to be D6500k... Mostly to be able to use standard mode with as close to D6500k...

*Blue gain had to be 0 to get anywhere near it* Since it is D6500k give it time to adjust from the usual overly blue image from Normal...

Movie Mode (PS3) RGB Mode Limited; Super White Turned On; YCbCr On for Blu-ray/DVD

Standard Mode
Blacklight - 5 (Up to You)
Contrast - 91
Brightness - 48



Sharpness - 10
Color - 46
Tint - G50/R50

Detailed Settings:

Black adjust - OFF
Dynamic contrast - OFF
Gamma - -2 (yes negative 2)
Color Space - Auto


Flesh Tone - 0
Edge Enhancement - OFF
xvYCC - Off

WHITE BALANCE




R-Offset = 25 *Update*
G-Offset = 25
B-Offset = 25
R-Gain = 30
G-Gain = 25
B-Gain = 0

Picture Options:

Color Tone - Normal

*Must be Normal with the above White Balance Settings for D6500k if coming from normal precalibration then u will hate it just adjust to it*


Digital N/R - Off
HDMI Black Level - Low (YCBCr will make it Disabled at Normal)
Auto Motion Plus - Off (up to you)
Blue Mode - Off

Energy Saving - Off (up to you) (Calibrated with it Off )

Xbox 360 HDMI2/PC mode- transfer over settings from PS3 Calibrated settings...

Standard Mode
Blacklight - 5 (Up to You)
Contrast - 91
Brightness - 48



Sharpness - 50 (DISABLED)
Color - 50 (DISABLED)
Tint - G50/R50 (DISABLED)

Detailed Settings:

Black adjust - OFF
Dynamic contrast - OFF
Gamma - -2 (yes negative 2)
Color Space - Native (DISABLED)


Flesh Tone - 0
Edge Enhancement - OFF
xvYCC - Off

WHITE BALANCE




R-Offset = 25 *Update*
G-Offset = 25
B-Offset = 25
R-Gain = 30
G-Gain = 25
B-Gain = 0

Picture Options:

Color Tone - Normal

*Must be Normal with the above White Balance Settings for D6500k if coming from normal precalibration then u will hate it just adjust to it*


Digital N/R - Off
HDMI Black Level - (Disabled for HDMI2/PC)
Auto Motion Plus - Off (up to you)
Blue Mode - Off

Energy Saving - Off (up to you) (Calibrated with it Off )
post #3779 of 3905
Quote:
Originally Posted by perritterd View Post

Can anyone tell me, when I am calibrating my 650 with the HCFR prog. & the i1, if by setting my contrast @ the 10 IRE to .0065% of my "Y" @ 100% IRE, does it set the contrast across the scale (0-100) more correctly than if you used the AVSDisc flashing bars to set your contrast? I know that the .0065% method correctly sets my Gamma at the 2.22 setting at the 10 IRE but is this the preferred method to set your contrast for the TV?

Thanks for any help.
Bob

P.S.: Does anyone know if there is a "Service Manual" for the LN46A650 and where to purchase it?

Anyone have any suggestions or views about the above questions?
Bob.
post #3780 of 3905
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigmac31391 View Post

Sorry, but theses settings look horrible on my 650, are you sure you have the sammy a650?

Well, that's what I had. and yes I have a Sammy LN52A650.
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