Official LNXXA650 Calibration/Settings Thread - Page 128

I had a feeling to stop by the thread to see if anyone had any tweaks and 'lo and behold I'm treated to a brand spanking new KakiColor Calibration to play with. Can't wait to get home!

for the love of god he is back. thank you so much for returning.

Cool and for the people who are new kaki's calibrations are meant for a pitch black room I repeat pitch black room which makes using a low backlight viewable.

Trust me your eyes get use to it and anything brighter hurts the eyes.

I Cannot , yes Cannot wait until the family goes to bed where I can plug in theses new settings. Thanks again for the PS3 settings!!!! Mike

I applied the settings across all my HDMI connected devices. Can't really use Energy Saving because my Cisco DVR's IR signal goes wonky so I have that off and Backlight of 1 given the bit of light that can creep through. It's wonderful! A++ in dark room setting, A++ with tweak in faint light setting. Thanks Kaki!

Quick and probably a repeat question:

I am getting old so I sleep pretty much from sundown to sunrise.
During the day with a medium amount of light shining in, will it mess up your calibration if I increase the backlight a bit? Thanks again for all of your help!! Mike

Hey its a setting that looks best for his TV doesn't mean it will look exactly the same way to everyone elses TV so go ahead and mess with the backlight if it looks good to you regardless until you calibrate your own TV these settings could be far off than default or spot on who knows lol.

Thanks All for the responses.

by adjusting backlight level including energy saving will definitely shift the calibration a bit but by not much, and you'll probably won't be able to tell the difference by the naked eyes.

Both "Backlight" and "Energy Saving" I would say they are safe to adjust according to your viewing environment. Contrast and Brightness settings however will affect the calibration greatly.

Contrast affects Brightness vice versa. White Balance affects Contrast and Brightness vice versa. After calibrated the White Balance you will have to check your Contrast and Brightness back and forth untill all are stable and each White Luminance Level match the RGB Luminance Level for best color accuracy and image quality.

The best way to adjust Brightness at the start and verify Brightness after white balance is to check that 0% Black Luminance does not rise (Using Calibration Instrument) but deepest for the matched Max White. In other words, your brightness (Black Level) should be adjusted to the setting just below the setting that rises it. Or multiplies the Max White by 0.0281 to get IRE20 to 2.22
Use APL Pattern is the best. And do not use the method that says multiplies the Max White by 0.006 to get the IRE10 to 2.22 or 0.0065 to 2.20 on the Samsung TVs.

Your goal is to get IRE20~IRE90 accurate for the Samsung TVs. To get IRE10 and IRE100 accurate, you will sacrifice quite alot of things that I would not recommend.
I've also got a calibrated LG LH95/LHX for Reference so I have no fear that my A650 is looking abnormal after the calibration.
LG LH95/LHX is able to get IRE10~IRE100 all accurate without sacrificing anything due to awesome ISFccc Expert Mode + 10step IRE Calibration.

I also have the Hi-Definition Reference Disc for Benchmarking purpose.

There is no such thing as DisColoration for having Max Contrast setting unless you don't match RGB Luminance with White Luminance.
You will only care for the DisColoration when you are only going to adjust "Contrast and Brightness" with no White Balance and RGB Level/White Level Matching and your goal is not Contrast Ratio too.
My goal is for max accuracy and performance for all areas.

Samsung Green Offset and Gain are uselss to use compare to other brands so leave them at default 25 are the best.

Has anyone tried Kaki's new setting in a room with "regular" light as in not total darkness at all? Any help would be appreciated.

Updated! Click Me!

[For Dynamic] KakiColor Enhanced Mode

Thank you Kaki. I think the Dynamic setting look great.

I see many people posting settings for the PS3, but optimised for movies. Does anyone recommend any of them for gaming?

Kaki's setting is perfection, except I do not watch my tv in total darkness so I have to raise my backlight to 3 and keep energy saving to off. I feel bad doing this cause I feel I am missing out on Kaki's total perfection when it comes to calibration.

Anyone else feel this way?

Updated, Click Me!

[For Static Pop] KakiColor Enhanced Mode - Static

(Note: Tweaked for brighter backlight usage at the same ratio as calibrated static, so it will look similar to the original setting except brighter.)

This is pretty much for the people who hate Dynamic but want more POP.

Thoses settings Kaki, look killer! I can't decide which one to use so I am going to let the wife pick. lol thank you for sharing your settings with all of us . I am also using them for HD Dtv and so far all of the channels look accurate. Thanks again for returning to the forum!! Mike

Hey kaki I was wondering if you would have a suggestion for each increase in backlight how much should we decrease the gamma setting. Like for your enhanced static you basically just decreased gamma as back light went up so what I am wondering is what you suggestion gamma would be for 1 backlight or two backlight and onward. The was someone else who also mentioned he loves your setting but at a backlight of 3 he wonders what he is missing out on. Backlight of five still gives it to much pop for me but I cant use 0 so would a backlight of 1 and gamma -1 work or backlight of 2 and gamma -1 and on. Because with you setting which i love I feel the moment I go from 0 to 1 on backlight that shadows become weak in darkness like when I watch scherlock holmes. Any suggestions.

I think what most people are looking for is a viewing setting for a room where the light level is D65?

i would think most people prefer a calibration where you can choose your own backlight setting like with his older PS3 setting.

Thanks Kaki for your new settings. I've been waiting for a while. With you're older you were able to set the display mode to standard using the same settings with an adjusted backlight which I used for gaming. I like your enhanced static settings and am wondering if I just use the same settings for Standard and Movie will it throw off the calibration. I would like to use standard mode for gaming and movie for blu-rays. Or do you just recommend using the movie mode for gaming as well. Thanks in advance.

A perfect calibration setting would be one with Kaki's new color and white balance matched to CIE2000 instead of CIE94 and the rest of the settings matching Kaki's old PS3 static setting from September 2009 with all the options set to off.

We would like to view our LCD's in their purest most natural form without any dynamic at all, and not in total darkness.

Thanks for listening everyone.

Just a suggestion but I have found a good spot for me in my completely dark living room by night and faint day light by day. Keeping in mind the ratio it seems kaki used to increase backlight and decrease gamma I am really enjoying Kaki's settings at 2 backlight and -1 gamma. I notice that with the extra brightness that during pretty decently lit scenes the top and bottom black bars are litterally black and not a dark gray which makes the picture pop even more in my opinion. With the little extra in light allowed in the screen I notice that it helps the black in the picture. But it still is just my opinion but it feels good. I just needed to find a good spot in between static and enhanced static.

I am using Kaki's Static Pop settings and they look great. However, HDMI Black Level is grayed-out and set to Normal on my set. I cannot modify it to set it to Low as suggested by Kaki. Anyone have an idea as to how I may change this setting?

Make sure you are using the HDMI 3 input....

I've been battling my my LN52A650's back light bleeding for about a year now, it's a version SQO2 panel. A good portion of both sides of the screen, roughly a foot to half a foot are lighter then the rest of the screen. I've attempted loosening the screws, watching with the lights ALL the way up, and no cigar. My most recent attempt was a 6500k 98 CRI bias light; while the bias light did increase the black levels, the sides were still lighter then the rest of the panel. I did have a tech come out and look at the screen, but all he did was a failed attempt to get a black picture on the screen, and then said that it was all normal and left. Big help dude. I'm willing to get another tech out here to replace the screen; however, I want to make I sure if I should. The bleeding is VERY annoying and completely pulls me away from the movie. What would you guys recommend?

PS: I'm using KakimotoRift's settings, they're beautiful.

Will Kaki's new dynamic settings work with a Samsung BD-p2500? Or are they for use with a PS3?

It appears that Kaki has disappeared again I apologize for questioning your colour schemes, please come back and bless us with regular KAKI COLOR updates for the Samsung A650.

I don't understand what your question was but every update he does means it was an improvement on his TV when it comes to calibrations. If you apply his settings to your TV and think it looks worse than some other settings then thats your opinion. His calibrations could be perfect for his TV but on anyone elses TV it could look way off.

You have to professionally calibrate it yourself if you want it to be great for your own TV. Telling him to keep messing it around without understanding how a calibration works is pointless.

Hope I didn't come off rude but just saying unless you was asking to do updates for other systems and want to see if it looks good for other systems then sorry thought you was asking the settings question.

I can't get it to change to Warm2..... I have it named game,should I change it to pc ????? and what Mode should it be set as????

There's one thing I don't understand, though. The blue push is off the charts with almost every calibration Kaki posts. You can clearly see this in the Avatar BD as well. I don't know if this is normal and need my eyes to adjust with this.

Like I said before every TV is different some TVs need warm1 to be 6500k and some need it at warm2 to be 6500k. Kaki for his TV is great for warm1 if he calibrates and gets good results. It may not be great for your own TV.

My TV needs warm2 to be 6500k if I wanted to get good 7500k then warm1 is great.