Samsung PN50A550 / PN58A550 Owners Thread - Page 181

You shouldn't get burn in on this set unless you keep contrast on 100 AND watch static material for hours (maybe even an entire day or two).

IR on the other hand is very common. You can keep your contrast down to 70ish but personally I keep it at 85 to 90 now (80 when I first bought it). The IR I hardly ever notice except when I'm in a pitch black room and say I put up the TV Menu for a few seconds and then shut it off on a dark screen with no material on it.

I don't game, so I'm not sure if that would make it more easy to see.

Had my Sammy for almost a year and it's started buzzing. It's audible with the volume set at 20. It doesn't always do it which is disconcerting. Guess I'll try and set up a service call with Samsung and hope it buzzes for them.

Plasmas are obviously going to dim over time from continual use. I think I've read that they dim relatively quickly at first, then it becomes more gradual (or I could be just pulling this out of my butt). Since I've had my panel for over 15 months, the "right" Contrast setting has probably changed. I don't have a measuring device, so what are you going to do? I decided to bump up the Contrast from 80 to 83. (A Contrast of 80 yielded 33.5 ftL of light for my panel according to a calibration done after two months of ownership. Doug Blackburn likes it at 35 ftL, but has stated that anything in the range of 30-35 ftL is ideal for viewing in a dark room, which is a Contrast of 78-84 for most panels that Doug has worked on.)

Like I said before, changing the Contrast in this way is (obviously) arbitrary, or an "absolute guess" as pbc stated. I'm not recommending that people do it--I'm just saying what I've decided to do for myself. Bumping it to 83 was hardly a radical move, though. Even if one's panel hasn't dimmed at all, bumping up the Contrast isn't going to screw up the PQ since these panels don't seem to suffer any adverse effects from high Contrast settings--at least up to 97. (If you are bothered by too much ambient light in the room, one of the steps that Doug has suggested is to increase the Contrast to about 97. Why not 100? Doug hasn't said, but the inference is that going beyond 97 can't be good.) The only really bad thing about arbitrarily increasing the Contrast by a few notches is that, if one didn't guess right, it might cause eye fatigue when viewing in a dark room. In fact, the main reason why the Contrast is set to 78-84 in the first place is that it yields a pleasing picture without being fatiguing to the eyes in a dark room.

Frankly, I would be more worried about arbitrarily changing the other settings by a few notches, such as the Brightness, Color, Tint, Sharpness, etc. That will definitely screw up the PQ.

Again, I'm not saying one should do as I did. This is the AVScience forum, after all. An arbitrary recommendation ain't exactly scientific. So please, please don't try this at home, kiddies, or you will unwittingly trigger the coming Apocalypse.

BTW, I did check the Brightness, Color and Tint settings using a setup disc. The Color and Tint didn't need any adjusting, nor did the Brightness (even after arbitrarily bumping up the Contrast).

Just got mu 550 today Excellent out of the box...I am SO pleased. will try the calibrations soon.

I posted about this same problem back in March when my display was still fresh out of the box. Sorry to be a bore. Or a noob. Or a fool.

First and foremost, please understand that there are circumstances when I want to hear the audio from my STB over the 550's built-in speakers. There's no convincing me that this is backward or ridiculous. Just take it as a given.

So here's the (continuing) situation:

When I want to watch (and listen to) TV without turning on the AVS, I have to make sure the STB software "Audio: Digital Out" setting is switched to "HDMI". I then get sound over the built-ins. If I happen to turn on the AVS with this setting selected, it tells me that the STB is only sending two channels of audio down the Coax. So this setting is okay for watching C-SPAN, but not Cinemax.

When I want to watch a movie and would like to hear it through the AVS in 5.1, I have to go back into the STB settings and switch over to "Dolby Digital". At this time, sound stops coming out of the 550's built-ins. In the Samsung Quick Setup Guide there is a note about a circumstance something like this, but it says that all you have to do is connect analog audio cables between the STB and the display to overcome it.

The STB outputs analog audio via both sets of RCA connectors no matter what the "Audio: Digital Out" setting is. I have just now gone downstairs and re-confirmed this. It seems that it's just when I switch it to "DD" that the 550 decides that it's not going to "hear" the analog audio.

I would like to be able to leave the STB set to "DD" - I hate to have to keep switching back and forth...

...I'm really pleased with the 550 otherwise.

Any help is much appreciated.

John

The Details:
-------------
Display: Samsung PN50A550
STB: Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300HDC
AVS: Sony STR-K750P
DVD: Sony DVP-S360
-------------
Signal Paths
Video:
STB -> TV: HDMI
DVD -> TV: Component
Audio:
STB -> AVS: Coaxial
STB -> TV: 2-channel Analog
DVD -> AVS: Optical

I'm not sure exactly what is happening, but I simply have 2 RCA cables from my STB into my 58A550 (I also have a SA8300) and use component cables into my 58A550.

I connect to my audio receiver via the HDMI output from the SA8300 (because the 8300 only has one HDMI out I use it for my reciever and the component out for when I just want to watch TV without turning on my system as I don't usually turn on my entire system to watch TV).

So when my receiver is on I switch to HDMI input, and when I want to watch TV without using my audio system I simply use component.

I guess I could look into connecting a digital audio out from my STB to my TV, but what's the point given the TV's speakers aren't very good. Might as well just use RCA if it fixes the problem.

I have RCA cables connecting my STB to my display as well. The problem is that when the STB is set to DD the 550 doesn't allow that analog signal to pass through to the speakers. When the STB is set to HDMI, the sound comes over the HDMI cable and does, in fact, make it to the speakers.

I just don't want to have to keep switching the Digital Out on the STB back and forth... It's making programming my new Harmony 520 really difficult.

So the difference between your setup and mine is:

You run HDMI from your STB to your AVS (vid+aud), Component to the 550 (vid), Analog (aud) to the 550.

I run HDMI from my STB to my 550 (vid+aud [but not 5.1 channel aud, so undesirable]), Component from my DVD to the 550 (as I don't have any other option), Analog (aud) from the STB to the 550 (** and this is the weak link - my 550 doesn't pass this audio through to the built-in speakers **)

So is there something about trying to use the HDMI input on the 550 for the video, while using the corresponding analog inputs for the audio? Some kind of incompatibility? Is that damn Digital Copyright Management technology again? Does my STB not use the newest version of the HDMI protocol?

Edit: From what I've gathered the SA8300HDC uses HDMI 1.0 - could this be the culprit?

Edit: Just finished a live chat session with Samsung and they were damn near useless.

John

I am seriously considering buying the 860, could someone please give me the low down on the negatives of this display(I have tried backreading but many real old posts) and also I would like to hear some peoples overall rating of the display considering both gaming and IR and also SD material and HD material.

I saw this set the other day and was blown away by its overall performance but was unable to hear any buzzing or see an IR because we were on one blue ray source.

Help please.

I think this is the wrong thread ... A550 on this thread.

I'm still struggling here.

Just checked my 8300. I have the "Audio Digital Out" set to "HDMI" out, TV Menu Audio option is set to "Speakers On". The audio from the STB box passes through to my TV via RCA whether my Audio system is on or off just fine. STB is connected for video via Component.

I know with my setup the only "issue" with HDMI is if I turn on the AVR and select TV as the input source, the HDMI on ths STB kicks in and I lose video unless I switch from component to HDMI input on the TV (at which point both video and audio pass thorugh the HDMI to my AVR).

How is your Sony home theater system reciever connecting to the STB?

If it's via the optical or coaxial cable, then I don't think you can output audio from both the HDMI and the coaxial, only one of hte other from the STB.

However, I'm struggling to understand why you can't output audio via the RCA cables when either Dolby Digital or HDMI is selected on the STB??

See this from the SA8300 manual:


I don't think the A550 is Dolby Digital Capable is it? Maybe this is the problem you are running into?

Just checked my 8300. I have the "Audio Digital Out" set to "HDMI" out, TV Menu Audio option is set to "Speakers On". The audio from the STB box passes through to my TV via RCA whether my Audio system is on or off just fine. STB is connected for video via Component.

I think the difference is that I have my STB connected to the 550 via HDMI. If it were hooked up like yours, via component, the stereo audio would pass through just fine - in fact, I've tested this and it works. The HDMI connection is just too "smart". I think the TV and the STB get to talking and decide that they're not going to push the analog audio out to my built-ins. Why do they have this conversation? No idea.


How is your Sony home theater system reciever connecting to the STB?

Coaxial. HDMI is not an option, nor is optical - as my DVD sports only optical for digital out and the receiver has one coax in, one optical in.


If it's via the optical or coaxial cable, then I don't think you can output audio from both the HDMI and the coaxial, only one of hte other from the STB.

I can output both, but apparently only when the STB is set to HDMI.


However, I'm struggling to understand why you can't output audio via the RCA cables when either Dolby Digital or HDMI is selected on the STB??

Again, I think this because I'm trying to run both HDMI and analog audio to the 550. Too smart for its own britches, that HDMI.


"You can either switch it back to HDMI when you are not using the home theater or Dolby Digital decoder,

...which is exactly what I do now and am desperately trying to avoid...


or you can connect the baseband audio outputs (Out 1 Audio >Left and Right) to the TV."

...which I have done [and there is signal on those "baseband audio outputs" in both the HDMI and DD settings, I have tested this by connecting them to another input on my receiver, like the CD input] but something is still preventing the TV from letting that signal get to the built-ins...


Thanks for all your brain-power on this PBC.

Ooops I'm sorry.

All HDTVs with speakers have to support Dolby Digital since that's the format HDTV audio is in (unless it was decoded by an AVR - but many people don't use an AVR with their HDTV)... it can be mono, stereo, or any combination of channels up to 5.1 (including 3.0, 3.1, 4.0, 4.1, etc.). If there are 2 speakers, the TV also has to fold 3.0-5.1 soundtracks into the 2 available speakers.

Doug - while I've got you on the line, do you have any other thoughts on my little problem?

If you're referring to not getting analog audio and digital audio out of the cable/satellite box at the same time... that's nothing more than a limitation of the box. The Playstation 3 hasn't been able to send audio from more than 1 output ever since it was first released... then a couple of weeks ago a new firmware release comes out and suddenly you can get audio from every output at the same time. The PS3 is a special case though... I wouldn't necessarily expect other products to be "fixed" in that regard by a firmware update. There's an excellent chance that the way the product is made or the particular chip set being used just won't ever be capable of audio from more than 1 output at the same time.

But my STB does output audio from all its spigots all the time. I've checked it. No matter what setting the STB is on, I get signal from both sets of analog outputs on the back of the box - I verified this by connecting them to an open input on my receiver. So that verified, honest-to-God signal travels up through the cable to the back of the 550 and then gets stopped. The 550 hears it and says, "No sir. You're not getting through to my speakers." But why?

... and this is the part I don't understand!! My box also passes both analog and digital (via HDMI) at the same time (oddly though, it won't pass video through both the component and HDMI at the same time).

Wonder if I can somehow connect my items similar to yours to see if I get the same issue? Prob is my plasma is mounted so it's tough to add wires and I think I'd have to add an optical cable??

I recently got a Samsung PN50B540, which i believe is practically the same model as the A550.

I'm very concerned about image retention during dark transitions (e.g. when playing a game with a bright static display). I find the ghost after-image very distracting and find they diminish the quality of the experience significantly.

The TV is new, and probably has only about 100 hours on it.

My question: Have owners of this line of TVs noticed significant reduction of IR after completing a thorough break-in period, or does it remain an issue?

I am considering exchanging the unit for an LCD to avoid these unsightly after-images.

Thanks for any help.

Try turning your contrast down to see if that helps.

But in a completely darkened room, I still see the same image retention that I saw when the set was new. E.g., if I put up a TV menu screen on an otherwise dark screen in a darkened room, after shutting the screen off I still see traces of image retention. My set has thousands of hours on it.

NO plasma is a good choice to use with games that have static on-screen displays. Doesn't matter what brand you pick, no plasma will handle that sort of "abuse" very well. I game on a plasma, but the only games I've played are the "cinematic" variety with no constant on-screen displays.

LCDs are bad for motion or off-axis viewing (the farther off-axis you get the grayer the blacks get and the dimmer the whites get). The motion blur can be problematic in some games. Not even expensive 240Hz LCD panels eliminate the motion blur. The blur issue is not a problem with some games, significant with others and I don't know how to tell in advance whether you'll have problems or not.

This is probably the clearest I have seen this stated. During my "research", sales people, reviewers, and plasma tv owners tended to downplay or ignore the issue with IR in games.

Unfortunately many game developers seem unaware of this issue or just indifferent to it. Many use constant displays, others fade them out after inactivity, but none that I've seen allow you to cycle the position of the information.

In any event, I will try a lower contrast setting and see if I can figure out a compromise of sorts. If not, I may need to look at LCDs instead, which is a shame, because the picture quality of this plasma is terrific.

Thanks for each of your replies .

We have an XBox 360 hooked up to our A550. My fiancee will play Peggle for an hour or so at a time. Peggle, especially on the wide screen settings, has a lot of static elements. The IR seems to go away within 5-10 minutes. That being said, I'm pretty sure I had 700-1000 hours on the set before we got the XBox.

Most of us here watch 2-3 hour movies with letterboxing, but you don't hear people complaining about uneven wear / IR. Most burn-in complaints I have read have come from people who constantly watch 4:3.

I think plasmas are fine for people who are not playing the same game for more than a couple hours at a time without some sort of break. Temporary IR is a fact of life however.

Have had my 550 a couple weeks now...LOVING IT! The Only problemo I'm having is getting it up on the wall! Ordered a www.monoprice.com wallmount. Heavy duty and HEAVY! I went to Home Depot and got new lag bolts...as read on this site...attempted to put on wall and one side (right) up just fine...Left Side another story. KEEP breaking bolts in all three holes with Four attempts! Pre-drilled...but Maybe there is a metal plate or something in that side.Who knows? (The shadow knows) Wife measured holes in bracket with calipers and we Went Back to Home Depot for the biggest bolts which will fit. Going to move bracket enough so holes not close and try again. (two bolts broke deep inside holes). Will drill all the way thru stud to next room and send LONG bolt thru if need be (come out in wife's sewing room closet ). IT WILL BE HUNG!

Whats up guys I don't post much, i have a 550a been having it for about eight months now. I have notice the older the set gets the less IR i get, and i use this set tv as my computer monitor and for gaming. here is a pic

Just how much are you tightening those bolts??? They should not break. When exactly are they breaking? Is it when you are snugging them to the bracket? Or when you are ratcheting the in---

You really don't need massive lag bolts, and they don't need to go through the wall. A good 2" bolt should be fine. The weight of the set is going down not so much out, so don't worry about the bolts pulling out of the wall. And all you need to do is snug them up, no need to reef on them once they are to the back plate.

Next week I'm planning on hanging my plasma on a brick wall. I'm going to use TapCon's and odds are I'll go with 2". These are a lot less beefy that lag bolts, but they will work well.

I pre-drilled with 3/16 bit 2.5 inches as directed. Right side bolts went in no prob. Left side are breaking...all three holes. I am hand tightening with socket wrench. First one top left broke about 1.5 inches sticking out of wall (mount currently hanging on this and two right-hand bolts). 3 other bolts broke off down in holes. And all of these are the bolts I got from Home Depot. No real cranking involved. Turning bolt and then gets Way Too Easy! They are not getting down to the bracket. That's why I think I'm hitting something in the wall. I'll move bracket down a bit and try again with 3/8 inch lag screws...pre-drilling in of course. Will post results afterwards.

Yeppers...It's up on the wall...Had to get next size up lag bolts. Ones that came with kept breaking. Think we went from 3/16 to 5/8. Also pre-drilled hole as deep as screw and used the next size up bit the depth of the smooth part of the lag bolt which is slightly bigger. Went in smoothly and securely. You could probably hang a refrigerator from this mount now. My wife & I lifted up the tv and easily hooked it on the mount. Tightened up the safety screws on bottom, tilted it to the best viewing angle and tightend up the side grip screws and all set. I can swing my 50in Sammy Plasma out almost 45 degrees (which I would never have to) and it's just as level. Only have it about 5-10 degrees max normally. Sweet!

Had the panel replaced on my set yesterday. Set had about 250 hours on it when failure occured. According to tech, Samsung knows that some bad panels were installed in these units but you won't know if you have one until it fails. Took him about 30 minutes to replace it and set looks like new.

I am quite interested in the 58B540.

Is this essentially the same TV, just a newer version?

Also is the buzzing really an issue, is it in all or some or what? All I keep hearing is that it is an epidemic.