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Samsung PN50A550 / PN58A550 Owners Thread - Page 188

post #5611 of 5660
Just one question, does anybody know if the letter designation at the end of the main board part number (A thru E) makes a difference? I need a "B" but can only find an "E". Thanks
post #5612 of 5660
I can say that it didn't make a difference in my case-- I supposedly needed a "B" but ordered a "D", installed it, and it works. It also looks exactly the same. And every potential supplier listed them as compatible, interchangeable parts when I was searching for one. I think you're safe. Good luck!
post #5613 of 5660
Finally replaced the mainboard. Found one at PartStore.com which is apparently owned by Best Buy. It was approx $100 shipped got it in 3 days . Simple process of removing back panel then disconnecting the cables to the board and swapping the boards out. Powers up like new now. Thanks for all the posts about this and will probably never buy a Samsung product again.
post #5614 of 5660
Can anyone confirm the part number for the PN58A550 main board?

Thanks
post #5615 of 5660
No one?
post #5616 of 5660
Hey guys!

I have a PN58A550 and after 4 years of ownership, I am now having the cold start up issue where it turns on and off along with severe static noise at times and bad picture. It's now to the point where I have to leave the TV on for almost 20-30 minutes before I can get a good solid picture. I am now thinking if I should call a service technician or just get rid of it and buy another HDTV. Here are some youtube videos of my issues and is this due to a bad power circuit board?

Part 1 - first initial startup in the morning. It just turns on and off.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3OUvCuA_fk

Part 2 - Screen then turns pink after 5 minutes then shuts off and turns on again.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P0lxWVlPy7c

Part 4 - few minutes later I get flashing blue things then turns off and on.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kcsIplJW0CY

Part 5 - pink/purple screen and again it turns on and off.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cBuy8H6ZPLw

Part 6 - after leaving the TV on for more than 20 minutes, I get the Samsung screen saver. I turn on the receiver and I get the noise and bad picture and its turns off and on.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoJFoUeKWJM

Part 7 - Bad picture and bad noise that lasts for a couple of minutes, turns off then on, and everything is ok.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWt9_nSMgzs
post #5617 of 5660
I had the exact same issue and I was able to fix my tv without replacing any boards!

It could be due to power board or the main board. For me, it was the main board because the voltages that the power supply board was outputting to other boards were correct (as marked on the board itself). I singled out the problem to be with the mainboard. You can either replace the mainboard but before you swap the main board you can try fixing it by reflowing it. There are tutorials on youtube on how to reflow hp laptop motherboard. You can use the same procedure. I fixed my main board (BN94-01658A) by heating it in the kitchen oven for 8 mins at 200degree C and allowed it to naturally cool.

If your main board is fine but the power supply board is bad (voltages its outputting are not within the marked values; you can use a DC multimeter to test ) you should be able to visually inspect and replace all the bad capacitors on the power supply board.

Hope it helps everyone that is having startup/clicking issues
Edited by Ibadat - 12/5/12 at 12:26am
post #5618 of 5660
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibadat View Post

I had the exact same issue and I was able to fix my tv without replacing any boards!
It could be due to power board or the main board. For me, it was the main board because the voltages that the power supply board was outputting to other boards were correct (as marked on the board itself). I singled out the problem to be with the mainboard. You can either replace the mainboard but before you swap the main board you can try fixing it by reflowing it. There are tutorials on youtube on how to reflow hp laptop motherboard. You can use the same procedure. I fixed my main board (BN94-01658A) by heating it in the kitchen oven for 8 mins at 200degree C and allowed it to naturally cool.
If your main board is fine but the power supply board is bad (voltages its outputting are not within the marked values; you can use a DC multimeter to test ) you should be able to visually inspect and replace all the bad capacitors on the power supply board.
Hope it helps everyone that is having startup/clicking issues

Thanks! Unfortunately I replaced the power supply board and still had the same issue. I'll look into the main board next. Thanks again!
post #5619 of 5660
Ive had my PN50A510 (550's little brother) for about 4.5years now. Still running strong with no signs of quitting. Although she has lost her luster over the years (still looks great though) and image retention is a bit annoying (goes away after a minute or two). For the $1100 I paid back then it has exceeded my expecatations up to this point. I'm surprised people are still fixing these sets, I would have assumed they were considered dinosaurs by now.

I had planned to go panasonic after this TV quits on me but brand loyalty may sway me on this one given the performance and reliability of my current sammy.
post #5620 of 5660
Ibadat,

Thank you again for your information. I bought a main board but turned out to be the wrong part number. I was frustrated at this point and figured I put the old main board in the oven (400F for 8 minutes) and see what happens. If it doesn't, then it would be a good reason to get another new HDTV. After I pulled it out of the oven, there were 4 small soldering balls on the tray and I thought crap I broke it. I installed it anyways and BAM, TV started up fine with a clear picture.

Now I have to return or sell this main board that I don't need.

Jon C.
post #5621 of 5660
How to remove dust between the protective glass and the screen?
I assume, that the protective glass is glued to the front bezel and the task is to remove the plasma screen without breaking it.
Is it difficult to disassembly the TV?
Any tips, recommendations ?

Here is a picture of the dust in the two lower corners:
post #5622 of 5660
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWguy206 View Post

Ibadat,

Thank you again for your information. I bought a main board but turned out to be the wrong part number. I was frustrated at this point and figured I put the old main board in the oven (400F for 8 minutes) and see what happens. If it doesn't, then it would be a good reason to get another new HDTV. After I pulled it out of the oven, there were 4 small soldering balls on the tray and I thought crap I broke it. I installed it anyways and BAM, TV started up fine with a clear picture.

Now I have to return or sell this main board that I don't need.

Jon C.

UPDATE:

The reflow technique only lasted for a week. Bought a reman. main board and everything is working fine now. I bought the main board from TVServiceParts.com. Here's the link
http://www.tvserviceparts.com/BN94-01660B.html
post #5623 of 5660
Anyone have blink codes for this TV?

Mine has failed with no picture but it powers on and has sound.

Power light is on in standby and after powering on it flashes once quickly, then a long pause, then 4 more flashes.

I have searched the net and found either that Samsung doesn't use blink codes (?) or that they do but no one says what they are.
post #5624 of 5660
I had the same problem that several people have mentioned...upon power up, funny colors over screen and screeching noise...after a couple of cycles it finally comes on and works. My problem was the main board. Rather than put the whole board in the oven (lots of plastic on this board that should not go in the oven) I made a mask from aluminum foil that just revealed the chip with the heat sink on it. Removed the heat sink. Using a multimeter with a temperature probe, I secured the thermocouple(temp probe) on top of the chip to monitor its temperature. Using a heat gun, I brought the surface of the chip(evenly) up to 200 deg C for 90 seconds, then brought it between 220 and 240 for another 90 seconds, then brought it up to 260 deg C +/- 5 deg C for 30 seconds, then slowly let the temp come back to room temperature. After cooling and re-installing the board (I also replaced the heat sink with a larger one), it has powered up perfectly for the last month. I also found 1 capacitor going bad on the "Y" board and replaced it. It wasn't completely bad yet, but it only measured 1/3 of its rated value. I found the procedure in another forum for fixing a video chip on a laptop. It's much better than heating up the whole board.
post #5625 of 5660
I've been happy with my PN50A550 for several years. I've noticed for about the last year it seems the software is getting "flaky".
If I tune into a channel that is marginal, it seems that the driving software gets bogged down- tv is less responsive to remote control commands, sometimes it will shut down on it's own and sometimes reboot.
channel memory is getting flaky, too.
should I try a software update?
A less important question-
Anybody have any experience running the set in "hotel mode"?
I haven't even tried it yet- would love to be able for my home automation to change inputs for security camera views but still be able to use the remote control.

Chris
post #5626 of 5660
i got to say, you guys are awesome. Thank god for the internet. Seems like no one has stock of the main boards anymore.(BN94-01658B). No luck finding! Thanks!!
post #5627 of 5660
Quote:
Originally Posted by SheldonCooper19 View Post

i got to say, you guys are awesome. Thank god for the internet. Seems like no one has stock of the main boards anymore.(BN94-01658B). No luck finding! Thanks!!
I just Googled and Encompass Parts has it. They're legit...I've bought from them before.
post #5628 of 5660
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schwa View Post



I just Googled and Encompass Parts has it. They're legit...I've bought from them before.

 



Thanks Schwa! I'm going to try to do the "re-flow" that a few people have mentioned but instead of throwing the whole thing in the oven, i'm going to try burnvictim's method of only heating the chip. Has anyone else tried this? I PM'ed burnvictim for some more detail but he's yet to reply.

Thanks
post #5629 of 5660

ok, so i just tried the re-flow with the heat gun.  I fear that i fried this thing and now im waiting for it to return to room temp.  i would love to watch TV while im waiting, but that is not possible for obvious reasons :)  i'll keep yall posted...

post #5630 of 5660
Quote:
Originally Posted by SheldonCooper19 View Post
 

ok, so i just tried the re-flow with the heat gun.  I fear that i fried this thing and now im waiting for it to return to room temp.  i would love to watch TV while im waiting, but that is not possible for obvious reasons :)  i'll keep yall posted...

OK, so no dice.  I'm on Encompass.com about to order, but i want to make sure i get the right part.  Many of you have mentioned BN94-01658B, but the tag on the board on my TV says BN94-01658A.  Are they interchangeable?  Does "B" potentially correct the defect of "A"?  Thanks fellas.

post #5631 of 5660
Replaced the board with a new BN94-01658B. TV fired up on the first shot! I wonder if these things tend to go bad over time...perhaps i should get another in the event they are no longer available in a few years. Well...thank you all again for your help; you saved me $1,500 for a new TV! God bless the interwebs!
post #5632 of 5660
Haven't followed this thread in a while but it popped up in my inbox. Going on 5 years without issue (knock on wood), well, except I managed to break one of the 2 HDMI inputs on the back when I moved the TV a bit not realizing a cable was still in it. The TV gets HEAVY use as well with two young children at home. TV still looks awesome, colours in particular, black levels are what they are. Which reminds me, haven't done a calibration of it in years so may have to pull out the old tools!

Hoping it lasts me until the 4K or whatever the next big thing is becomes more main stream and there are actually sources that produce it. Plus with Plasma's unfortunately going the way of the do-do bird, I'm also hoping whatever technologies are left (LED/LCD or OLED or whatever is considered the rave these days ... haven't looked into the technology since early 2009 at this point!) have matured a bit more and prices have come down.
post #5633 of 5660
Thats good to hear! Did you replace the board too? or re-flowed it like some others here? This TV truly is awesome and im bummed that Plasmas are on their way out as i think LCDs suck in comparison...i dont care what anyone says about refresh rate. Sucks you broke an HDMI input, but if you have a reciever its amazing how few you actually need on your TV. How do you re-calibrate?
post #5634 of 5660
nope, not sure I'd go through the hassle and it would likely make me want to just buy a new. Hence why I'm hoping it lasts another year or two...
post #5635 of 5660
Actually for $100, its worth it (its the same board that has the HDMI inputs on which you have a broken one). It literally takes 5 minutes to replace...4 plugs to easily pull out, 4 screws and thats it. Hopefully you never have to..but spending $100 beats spending $1000!
post #5636 of 5660
Quote:
Originally Posted by SheldonCooper19 View Post

Actually for $100, its worth it (its the same board that has the HDMI inputs on which you have a broken one). It literally takes 5 minutes to replace...4 plugs to easily pull out, 4 screws and thats it. Hopefully you never have to..but spending $100 beats spending $1000!

This may seem a bit noobish, but did you have to take off the entire back to get to the board? Doesn't look to be any smaller part to take off, but I may just be missing something obvious because I wasn't looking closely enough.
post #5637 of 5660
Quote:
Originally Posted by MilSF1 View Post

This may seem a bit noobish, but did you have to take off the entire back to get to the board? Doesn't look to be any smaller part to take off, but I may just be missing something obvious because I wasn't looking closely enough.

Yes, the entire back must come off.
post #5638 of 5660
I have a 58 that is doing the screeching and cycling deal. First, I replaced a bunch of caps on the power board. The 2200's were measuring 1500 on a calibrated lcr meter, 1000's were 800 so I figured that was it. I replaced all the 2200s, 1000s, 470s and 47s with higher voltage ones. It didn't fix it. I re-flowed the MB... no change. I ordered a replacement MB... no change. I verified the voltages coming from the power board. All the labeled ones I found seem to be there. The 5.3V was 5.18, but it doesn't really seem like enough to break it, is it? What could I be missing? Could the board with the inputs on it be the bad one or could I be overlooking something on the power board? Anyone have a schematic? I imagine probably not but can't hurt to ask. Where do I go next?

edit: Or could there even be a chance that the replacement board is crap? It must be refurbished because the dates on the quality stamps are very close.
Edited by mc68hc11a1p - 12/11/13 at 10:26am
post #5639 of 5660
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWguy206 View Post

Thanks! Unfortunately I replaced the power supply board and still had the same issue. I'll look into the main board next. Thanks again!
Quote:
Originally Posted by SheldonCooper19 View Post

Thats good to hear! Did you replace the board too? or re-flowed it like some others here? This TV truly is awesome and im bummed that Plasmas are on their way out as i think LCDs suck in comparison...i dont care what anyone says about refresh rate. Sucks you broke an HDMI input, but if you have a reciever its amazing how few you actually need on your TV. How do you re-calibrate?
post #5640 of 5660
I have a pn50a550 and was having the same startup problem as many have, with the machine turning on and off many times with alternating screeching sounds and different colored screens. I reflowed the main board at 400 degrees fahr. for 8 minutes and it worked like a charm. It fired up immediately with no issues. One day in, we will see if it lasts
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