I circuit traced the wiring for the 5 switches on my T3AP Pro. I kept the wiring diagram as simple as possible. The switches are all momentary type push buttons. The capacitor in the schematic has a value of 0.1 uF. (A small ceramic disk capacitor will do nicely.) The schematic is accurate, but you'll need to determine its proper orientation, as some Artec boxes have the 1-7 pads/pins reversed.
Wire #7 of the schematic above must go to the pad or pin on your board that goes to ground. This pad/pin will either be the one closest to the tuner case, or it will the one furthest from the tuner case. (So far, for most people it's the one furthest from the tuner case.)
With the box unplugged, and using a digital ohm meter (not analog), probe the two pads or pins at each end of the connector. When you've found the one that reads 0 ohms to ground (i.e. the tuner case), you've found number 7 on your board. Now that you know which one is number 7, you also know the numbers of the rest of them.
Also, now that you know in what direction yours are numbered, you can do a test to see if your board supports the extra buttons. Plug in your box and make sure it's turned OFF. Momentarily short the metal case of the tuner to your pad/pin #2. The box should turn on normally. If you have the output of the box connected to your TV, you should see it power up on the screen also.
This test is essentially the same as pressing the center (power) button on the Pro. If this test didn't work, you just saved yourself a bunch of time and trouble. If it did work, there's a good chance that your box will respond to all five of the buttons when wired in correctly.
As you can see though, these pads/pins are VERY small, be VERY careful! Don't even think of doing this test if you've just finished you fifth cup of coffee!!! And make sure you discharge any static by touching the metal tuner case first!
I've tried this test on mine and it does power on. No ill effects. (But then again, it's supposed to work on mine, I already have the Pro version.) Still, I take NO responsibility should you slip, or you box is not compatible in some way. Also, if this is your only box, you may not want to risk being without TV should something go horribly wrong.
The switches can be installed any way you wish. In a straight row, or something resembling the original design. Or maybe in a small separate box mounted to the top of the Artec. (Use the old button hole for wire passage.)
There are just a few things to keep in mind:
1) Keep all wires as short as possible.
2) When done the wiring, give the 7 wire bundle a few turns to reduce noise pickup.
3) And MOST important, choose/mount your switches with static electricity in mind! If you choose switches that have metal bezels and or metal cases, those bezels or cases "should" all be tied to a ground. This can be accomplished by using a separate wire that's connected to all of the switch cases at one end, and the other end is soldered to the tuner case. The first time you walk across the carpet to change channels you'll understand the importance of this. If that discharge were to find its way to the actual switch contacts and wires, you can probably kiss your board good-by. Of course, if your switches are of the all plastic variety, grounding isn't necessary.
Actually though, the hardest part of this mod will be soldering the 7 wires to the circuit board. If your box has the empty pads, soldering will be easier then if it's one that has the connector already installed. And, since this connector is surface mounted, removing it is probably not an option. Finding the proper 7-pin plug for your existing socket would be your best (and safest) bet.
I think that about covers everything. Since I'd hate to see someone's box get fried, please don't attempt this mod if there’s even the slightest doubt in your mind that your soldering skills are up to it.
[INSERT "DON'T HOLD ME RESPONSIBLE" DISCLAIMER HERE!]