No decision on kitchen lighting, so the hole in the ceiling remains. And WILL remain until a decision IS made. So I got back in the basement for a little bit and finished mudding and sanding the access hole that was in the wrong spot and got two coats mud around the access to the storage area under the stairs.
I'll need to make a door to fit the opening. Right now, I'm leaning towards cutting a 3/4" 2'x8' sheet of MDF down to fit the opening and fit it flush to the wall. Then prime and paint to match the wall. The idea is to make it as unobtrusive as possible. I'm thinking the popcorn machine will be in front of it so that should help hide even more.
I could add some pictures, but it would be like watching mud dry.
Sorry, I was out golfing yesterday and didn't check in all day and I'm at work now. I'll get the details when I get home. I know the brand is Dutch Boy and I got it at the Sears Hardware store. I don't think the regular Sears are selling paint any longer. It matched up really well with the carpet I picked and the burgundy GOM. I'll get the specifics on the GOM too.
OK, I forgot to do this last night....hope it's not too late....
The paint is:
Dutch Boy Dimensions, Matte Flat Base D, 'Gypsy Gem' DC084. Also, what you see in the picture is one coat, and I used a 6" roller I had lying around, just to get some paint on the walls because I was tired of looking at the gray primer. So it is somewhat splotchy. Of course, if that is the look you're going for......
It matches very well to the GOM 701 Deep Burgndy (556).
Hope this helps.
I will say that after painting the ceiling flat black with the Home Depot Beher Premium Plus Utra I'll probably color match that paint. I REALLY liked the coverage and how it went on.
Thanks Logan, turns out the place that sells dutch boy near me is closed on the weekend anyway, so ill have to check next week.
Question for you, it looks in the pictures like your are getting a suede effect, is that accurate? or just of trick of the pictures? I was hoping to do a dark red suede on my walls but every place I have been so far has been a bust. Seems the suede texture paint only comes in pastel colors around here and everyone says they cant tint it to what I want.
When I did my ceiling, the Ralph Lauren paint came in a variety of colors, including many of the deep traditional colors. They also told me that they could mix any color that I wanted. See if you can find someone with the Ralph Lauren line (Home Depot carried it where I live).
Question for you, it looks in the pictures like your are getting a suede effect, is that accurate? or just of trick of the pictures?
I used a 6" roller I had lying around, just to get some paint on the walls because I was tired of looking at the gray primer. So it is somewhat splotchy. Of course, if that is the look you're going for......
What you are seeing is the splotchiness from 1 coat and a 6" roller over gray primer. If you want an actual suede look, you should probably go with the RL Suede as carboranadum suggests. I've seen his and it DOES look like suede.
I plan to color match using the Behr Ultra and put on a second coat to smooth it out. IF I had used the Behr in the first place, I probably would have only needed one coat.
MAN, it's HARD building a door from scratch. I've been trying to build that dang door for under the stairs storage. I figured a 3/4" 2'X8' MDF cut down to size, a few hinges and I'm good to go. I THOUGHT I was going to be able to post some pics today. I THOUGHT I was going to just hang the door and get a coat of primer on yesterday. Well, now I have MORE mudding and taping. And I'll leave it at that.
I considered a premade door, but the opening is a little less than 24". The only thing I can find to fit in there pre-made is 18" and then I wouldn't be able to get anything in and out.
Uh, am I missing something here? If it is a 'bit' less, I'd just buy a 24" door and cut it down a bit. Might even buy a prehung one and modify the frame the same amount. Certainly easier than building from scratch and the end result would look like your other doors.
I (AND LOGANESS) want this door in particular to be flush with the wall (no trim) in order to make it as unobtrusive as possible. I really can't see how trying to cut down a prehung door would be any easier. And I'd lose another couple of inches in the way the jams are made.
Cutting the actual slab is not the issue. FITTING it in the opening flush and with as little gap as possible is a whole 'nother thing.
Ive done a couple of flush door installs (ie no trim), and used standard corner bead mounted backwards around the outside of the jamb. Just fix the corner bead so the "little buldge" for mudding stands just proud of the front edge of the jamb, then tape and mud right too it.. basically the same concept as the flush access doors that are available.
Not sure what you mean by mounting backwards. I used standard metal corner bead and mudded around it. I THOUGHT I was done and had it looking pretty good until I tried to actually hang the door and then the mud start cracking with all the pushing and pulling and mounting and re-mounting. So I left the door hung and will mud with the door in place this time.
Not to mention that the hinges are not all interchangeable. I initially pulled all the pins out and tossed the hinge halves in a pile and then mounted them thinking I could just line up the hinges and drop in the pins. Turns out not only do the hinges not fit together interchangeably but the pins don't fit interchangeably either. I had to pull everything back out, mate up all the hinges and pins and KEEP them together and remount the hardware. So I had to make sure I kept everything in the right order when dropping in the pins.