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Need motivation? Get "LOGANED" - Page 112

post #3331 of 3640
128740051979945355.jpg

Thought I checked into the wrong thread for a minute there, what with all the blazing progress.

Who'd a thunk?

Good on ya!
post #3332 of 3640
Looking sweet!!

I like the pendant lights in the kitchen too!
post #3333 of 3640
Excellent progress buddy! Looking good. The screen wall looks great, and so does the kitchen. I'm sure the Loganess really appreciates the new lighting addition to the kitchen. Good to get some of the "Honey Do's" done as your getting "your" stuff done too. Keep it up, your setting a new record pace for yourself. That in unto itself is a milestone. biggrin.gif

Regards,

RTROSE
post #3334 of 3640
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the kind words, guys!

For the record, this is progress over a couple of months, I'm just catching up with the pictures.

And I do want to mention that the gear on the shelves is temporary. That's the gear I use for my deck theater. However, this year I haven't even set it up. It's been either far too hot or rainy on every weekend we've had free to watch something on the deck. My real gear is hooked up to that 65" Mits in the living room. Once I decide what to do with it, I'll move the "real" gear down there. Oh, and I STILL haven't hooked up the Butt Kickers and amp.

Any non-musicians can stop reading now.

I've just upgraded my phone and installed an app called the iRealBook. Basically, this app is like Band-in-a-box. It plays a drum, piano/guitar and bass track and includes tons of styles that are customizable. If you're familiar with the Real Book, I've found almost ALL of Vols 1 & 2 (I haven't sat down and actually checked every one of the over 1200 tunes I've been able to download against the books). It also has an editor to input/create your own tunes. So anyway, I bought a mini stereo-RCA patch cord and extension, ran it into my sidewall patch panel, which runs back to the amp, and INSTANT SMALL COMBO! It's great for practicing and just working on whatever you want/need to. I HIGHLY recommend it. For the price, (about $12.00) it's an INCREDIBLE value.
post #3335 of 3640
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

I've just upgraded my phone and installed an app called the iRealBook. Basically, this app is like Band-in-a-box. It plays a drum, piano/guitar and bass track and includes tons of styles that are customizable. If you're familiar with the Real Book, I've found almost ALL of Vols 1 & 2 (I haven't sat down and actually checked every one of the over 1200 tunes I've been able to download against the books). It also has an editor to input/create your own tunes. So anyway, I bought a mini stereo-RCA patch cord and extension, ran it into my sidewall patch panel, which runs back to the amp, and INSTANT SMALL COMBO! It's great for practicing and just working on whatever you want/need to. I HIGHLY recommend it. For the price, (about $12.00) it's an INCREDIBLE value.

Far out. But does it go up to 11?

SpinalTap_11.jpg
post #3336 of 3640
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

Mainly I'm still only 99.9% sure that I'm NOT putting the 65" Mits down there. Turns out it MIGHT fit, but I'm working on LOGANESS to put it in the family room for our main TV watching. And there IS the cool factor. I certainly COULD have made a fixed frame, and I might yet do that. I reserve the option. And finally, it was in the plan, it was something I was going to build from scratch just for fun, but it turned out cheaper this way. So I did it. That's my story and I'm sticking to it!

Trust me, it isn't an issue, and the only reason to put the 65" set down there is if you want to nver use it again!

I have a 50" Panny plasma in the family room for 'normal' viewing and a 36" Sony XBR CRT set next to the theater for XBOX use. The family is always setting it up to use the theater for everything. I finally gave up and stopped moving the XBOX back to the small TV. I've got to admit that racing games are a blast on the big screen. The kids watch everything from serious movies to youtube videos on it, and the Panny only seems to get turned on during evening family time/meals.
post #3337 of 3640
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Far out. But does it go up to 11?

No, not, you know, really. Why don't you just make ten louder and make ten be the top number and make that a little louder? As long as there's, you know, sex and drugs, I can do without the rock and roll.
post #3338 of 3640
Thread Starter 
Looks like the 65" Mits will be staying in the family room. We just spent a boatload on a new stand. Anyone local need/want an armoir that will hold a 32" TV? In light oak? Free for the picking up.

Sorry no pics on this update, but....

As the 1st weekend in September seems to have become the F-word in the basement, and with forecasts of heavy rain from the remnents of Hurricane Issac, I spent Saturday pulling out the sump pumps. I cleaned out the bottom of the pit. There must have been two inches of gunk in the bottom of the pit. Stones, a rock, pieces of the hose clamps that have rusted off, a big rubber grommet. I took both pumps out and hosed them off. On the main pump I replaced the bulb-type float-switch with one of this type:


Then I removed the check valve and glued in a coupling and an extension pipe to mount the check valve ABOVE the top of the pit to stop the hose clamps from rusting off. Also neatened up all the wiring.

I put the backup back in and neatened up THAT wiring.

Then I tested. I ran a garden hose into the drain right outside the door and turned it on to full open and watched the pit. The water level now gets to about half when the main pump kicks in. I watched 6 or 8 cycles, then tested the back up. The back up kicks in at about 3/4 full. The water level USED to remain about 2" from the top at all times.

Something I noticed while testing the backup....I followed the directions when I installed it. The directions call for drilling a small hole in the riser pipe at a given height. When the pump turns on, water just blows out this hole (back into the pit) and it takes a REALLY long time to empty the pit. So as I'm watching, I stick my finger down there and plug the hole and the pit empties in no time. So I plugged the hole.

WHAT I think happened the last time I had an f-word....
I think the bulb-type float got hung up and the main pump never kicked on. Because the standing level in the pit was always only 2" from the top and that hole in the riser pipe emptying water back into the pit, the backup wasn't able to keep up. The alarm was signaling that it was running and the power never went out.

SO, four hours later, I'm ready for the rain. We get a sprinkling. Just enough to wet everything enough to not want to sit outside or grill.
post #3339 of 3640
Your preparations obviously warded away the storm, such is the power of LOGAN!
post #3340 of 3640
Well done Tom. You have inspired me to flush the hot water heater and clean/test the sump pump and backup this weekend!

Glad that you're prepared for water. Hopefully, that preparation will pay off.
post #3341 of 3640
Thread Starter 
Quote:
You have inspired me

Music to my ears!
post #3342 of 3640
Quote:
Originally Posted by thegeek View Post

Your preparations obviously warded away the storm, such is the power of LOGAN!

I think this probably works like having an umbrella. It never rains when I remember to take an umbrella...... unless I leave it in the car biggrin.gif
post #3343 of 3640
Thread Starter 
Quote:
I think this probably works like having an umbrella. It never rains when I remember to take an umbrella.

The opposite being it rains whenever I wash my car.
post #3344 of 3640
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

The opposite being it rains whenever I wash my car.


LOL! Yeah, there's that, too biggrin.gif
post #3345 of 3640
Thread Starter 
Storm blew in on Saturday 9/8/12. Looks like I averted a disaster, hopefully due to the work I did on the sump pumps last week.

On Saturday, we were running errands and were in the Costco that's only about a 1.5 miles from the house. When we left, LOGANESS says "should we take down the umbrella and bring in the cushions?" I say, "No, it's only partly cloudy and from the looks of it, it'll probably be one of those that goes around us." So, we're in the checkout line at Costco and the lights go out. Registers still work so they don't miss a beat. But we can see it's REALLY windy outside and raining HARD, based on the amount of water pouring through one of the skylights. So we get checked out, make a mad dash to the truck and get home as fast we can. Twenty minutes, MAYBE, from the time it started raining. First thing, I open the door to the basement to check for water lapping at the bottom step. NOTHING. AND I don't hear the alarm on the backup. So far, so good.

THEN, we see THIS on the deck.
20120908_155700.jpg

Amazingly, the glass top didn't break. The wind must have lifted the umbrella straight up out of the weight and then blew the whole thing across the deck until it fell over the chairs.

This is the other side of the deck.
20120908_155745.jpg

IF it's any indication of a rain gauge, we have an artificial plant hanging outside on the wall of the house (under the eave). The plant sits in a cone-shape plastic holder, designed to be able to water a real plant. LOGANESS takes out the fake plants and there is about 2.5 inches of water in it. There were conflicting reports about whether or not a tornado actually touched down, but winds were reported up to 60mph. Temp dropped from the low 90s to the 60s. I could tell that the main pump had at least kicked on due to the gouge it dug in the grass where the pipe empties.

So, right now, I'm feeling pretty good about it.
post #3346 of 3640
How far out is your bar top from your base? Its looking great!

matt
post #3347 of 3640
Thread Starter 
Thanks. I started working on the last wall that needs the linacoustic and burgundy GOM to clean up that part of the room. Hoping to be able to start sanding and staining the bar in the next couple of weeks.

I can measure exactly for you tonight, but I'm pretty sure it's 12 inches.
post #3348 of 3640
Cool Tom that would rock! I'm building my bar and really like your layout and overhang.
post #3349 of 3640
Ah, the Issac threat had me going in circles as well. Checking and rechecking my sumps just in case we got the rain (we never did get the amount they predicted. I don't have any of my hose clamps below water level just for the rusting off part. Just for an FYI one of the plumbers I had look at my system suggested buying new check valves when you changed out the pumps, did any type of re-plumbing, or every 3 to 5 years. He stated that under no circumstances should I put the old check valves back in after replacing the pumps.

Another point is he told me that I should be careful emptying the hot water from the water heater into the sump pits as the pumps pumping out hot water can cause the pumps to overheat and fail prematurely.

I feel you pain on the deck furniture. I have lost a couple of umbrellas and a table to high winds. I can tell you that when that tempered glass table shattered there were about a bazillion pieces to pick up.

Regards,

RTROSE
post #3350 of 3640
Thread Starter 
mattcandraw -

Yes, 12" + the little extra that the bar rail provides. I think that's 1 5/8s". Hard to measure that due to the configuration.

RT - Had not had any issues with the check valve itself, but I guess it doesn't hurt to replace them next time I perform maintenance. Glad you stayed dry, too!
post #3351 of 3640
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

Thanks. I started working on the last wall that needs the linacoustic and burgundy GOM to clean up that part of the room. Hoping to be able to start sanding and staining the bar in the next couple of weeks.

So......how did that bar staining go? wink.gif
post #3352 of 3640
Thread Starter 
Quote:
So......how did that bar staining go?

You young guys crack me up!

But thanks for raising the thread from the dead.

While trying to clean up the bar area after adding a frame and the linacoustic to the one wall (no fabric yet), I decided to connect up all of the remaining switches and fixtures. And to my abject horror, realized that I have two dead power lines feeding into three switch boxes. One is for a light in the rack/storage area at the back of the room and the other is for one more ceiling light over the bar and then to a switch that would control the proscenium light.

The weird thing is that I KNOW for ALL lighting I ran pwer to the switch box and then to the fixture (s), so there is no power in the fixture box and then back down to the switch. ALL of the wiring appears to be connected. I have no extra wires in any box and I KNOW I don't have any hidden junction boxes. I used 14g for all lighting and 12 ga for all outlets so I know there's not a connection for lights in any outlet box. All the breakers are on and all other lights/outlets work fine. So far, I haven't been able to find any pictures of the wiring before the insulation went in.

I've used my continuity tester to confirm that the switch boxes are NOT tied together (the power from one doesn't go to the other...and there aren't enough lines in the boxes for this to be the case anyway). I WAS able to find and confirm (AND label) the wire running from the switch box to the proscenium and from that swtich box power to the box that has the switch box to the ceiling fixture behind the bar.

The other one, I can confirm that one of the two wires runs up to the fixture.

So maybe this will help.....sorry, I only have MSpaint avavilable



BIG even came over for a "consult" with his tone generator to try to trace the lines inside the wall, but we kept getting inconclusive results. I have one place to check for maybe a loose connection. Other than that, I think I have fish some new lines.
post #3353 of 3640
I know this is pretty obvious, but did you try different switches? I had a problem with a recent reno and it turned out the switch was faulty (cheap decora ones from hd). Other than that, I got nothing despite that awesome paint diagram.
post #3354 of 3640
Thread Starter 
At this point it's not the switches....there's no power to the boxes according to the live circuit tester and I would have been zapped by now with all the touching and separating of the different lines.
post #3355 of 3640
Do I follow correctly that you have power at the switch box, but no power at the lights? So, the wires coming from the breaker are fine, but you can't find the wires going to the lights?
post #3356 of 3640
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

At this point it's not the switches....there's no power to the boxes according to the live circuit tester and I would have been zapped by now with all the touching and separating of the different lines.

This is how I do the majority of my circuit testing. The last time I did this it was during a sump replacement standing in a puddle of water. I got bit really good with that one. eek.gif

For what it is worth have have very little success with the "sniffer" type of tools, I am always getting false results. Having had wiring issues outside of the theater build I know how frustrating they can be. Good luck!

Regards,

RTROSE
post #3357 of 3640
As I understand, there is no power getting to the switch box. Are the lights on their own circuit? Do other lights on that circuit work? I'm sure BIG has already gone over all of this with you. You need to make a picture of the basement and locate where the circuit goes.
post #3358 of 3640
I'm sorry to hear about the electrical problems. If power isn't getting to the switch boxes and other lights on the same circuit work, then the only thing that I think could be wrong is that one of the wires was somehow damaged or something isn't connected.

I hope that you can get it resolved. Fishing wires is never very fun.
post #3359 of 3640
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Do I follow correctly that you have power at the switch box, but no power at the lights? So, the wires coming from the breaker are fine, but you can't find the wires going to the lights?

No, it's the exact opposite...no power to box, but I know which wires go to the fixtures.
Quote:
As I understand, there is no power getting to the switch box. Are the lights on their own circuit? Do other lights on that circuit work?

CORRECT! No power to box. Yes lights are on their circuits (that's circuits with an "S"). Evidently, the power lines I'm trying to trace do not go all the way back to the breaker as there are no "extra" wires hanging around the breaker or in any other box. These MUST have been run to SOMEWHERE and connected or I just totally screwed up and didn't pull them through the boxes where they SHOULD connect.

There are mutliple lighting circuits and I THOUGHT I had it all figured out as to which circuit these SHOULD be on. All the other lights on all the other circuits work fine.

At this point, I'm fishing new lines. I've identified where I can tap in. The real bitch is I'll have to cut some drywall....I thought was done with that.
post #3360 of 3640
Thread Starter 
OK, I fixed the easy one (the circled one). I spent a good amount of time on Saturday looking at the one last spot I thought I might have connected to power, but it was a no-go. And it was in a really tight spot under the stairs so my back was killing me. So on Sunday I made a trip to HD for some of the pull rods. I already have a steel pull cable but with all the insulation, I'm not sure how much good it will do.

Lightingproblem_fixed_1_zps63d6e667.jpg

Since I left about an inch between the foundation wall and stud wall, I thought I could go straight through and behind the wall and then off to the side to get into the storage area that is on the other side to the right of that wall. Turns out I blocked off the gap in the storage area. It looks really nice, but in hindsight is not so practicle. So I tried to go up to the ceiling and then over, but the distance to catch the wire was too great and I couldn't see anything with all the insulation in the way. Sooooo, I ended up running power to the ceiling box then running power down to the switch, since it was already there. The drawing is not quite accurate as there is a door into the furnace area with a light on pull-chain. Turns out that light and the one I'm trying to fix are mounted to the same joist. The run was only about 4 feet, so it was pretty easy. And yes, I colored the white wire black on both ends of the switch wire. Works fine now.

The next one will be MUCH harder. The reason I ran power to the switch boxes and not the fixtures is that in order to use Insteon dimmers, you HAVE to have a a neutral in the box. So I can't use one for this light, which his no big deal since I'm only likely to use it when switching out disks, or whatever while standing at the rack. I can reach over and turn it off. The next one, I REALLY want the dimmers, so I HAVE to get power to the box.
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