Need motivation? Get "LOGANED" - Page 114

What's the weather up there? We're headed to the Door Penninsula.

DANG! Has it really come to discussing the weather? I gotta get a move-on after the first of the year.

RT, steppin' it up! Way to go! I'm so out of it it takes RT to straighten out Cuz. I gotta get back on board.

Hmmmm...gifts to the water goddess. It might work. It just MIGHT WORK!!! First, I require eight-score young blonds and brunettes, all between 16 and 19 1/2.....



On a side note...
Maybe you remember this Saga of the dead light switches.....

I KNEW I took pictures of all the wiring BEFORE drywall went up. The other day, while looking for something else I finally found the pictures. However, the pic STILL didin't help me out. The line for the box at the rack disappears behind insulation around the sliding door. Apparently I ran it all the way across the wall, over the door and intended to tie it in somewhere in the theater side of the room.

It minimally confirms some the "weird" readings we were getting when Big came over and we were trying the tone generater to trace the line.

Not a blonde among 'em!

I think I broke my sub.

While watching X-Men First Class last weekend, right about the scene pulling the sub out of the water, the sub starts "buzzing." It sounded like a rattling or machine gun fire. I had heard that the LFE on that soundtrack goes REALLY low, so I hoping maybe that was it, but last night I played through the LFE menu on the first BD Demo and the same thing happened, on tracks that I know were fine before. I thought maybe the cross-over was too high, but I hadn't touched it at 80. I tried cutting it back but no change. I didn't think I was playing it any louder than I've played anything else.

All the reading I've done indicates that the voice coil is probably fried.

Anyone have any other thoughts on what I can try? FWIW it's an SVS 20-39 PC+.

No chance. I bought it used a couple of years ago.

If I was looking at current SVS site (hard to tell if it was current or archived) an OEM replacement driver appears to be about $300, which looks to be pretty cost effective vs buying new.

Anyway, I'm heading out of town for a week so won't get to it until the first of the year. Providing of course, there IS a first of the year!

Happy Holidays to all!

Since it looks like the world didn't end....I'll take you up on your offer when I get home next week.

Thanks, RT! Same to you and yours and everyone who drops in! Hoping you all have a safe and happy holiday.

Got a little motivated.....

Before the Holidays I managed to pick up some 5/4 finger jointed 10' boards to make the fabric frames for the remaining wall. This is the back wall that surrounds the mechanical closet. I'll use 2" OC703 so I wanted the frames to be a little beefier than 3/4 material and not have to double up material. I guess I could have used standard 2x4s and ripped them, but the one or two I tried warped really bad once I ripped them. So... here are the frames....

The bottom section of the wall. I framed out for the outlet and the return vent. This frame is mounted using french cleats as there is no way to hides staples on the sides so the fabric needs to be wrapped and then the frame mounted.


I was going to make some french cleats, but I would have had to set the table saw back up and I found these at HD. I used four, so they were a little expensive (about $8 each), but saved me a LOT of time. I put two at the top and two at the bottom to prevent ANY rattling.

Also, notice my little screw-up? I measured the frame so that the upright sides would go on the OUTSIDE of the top and bottom pieces. And then when I glued, pinned and clamped them, I put the uprights INSIDE of the top and bottom pieces. This made it PREFECTLY 10/4s too short. Rather than pull it all apart, I made two new side pieces.


Here are the top frames. The frame to the left has to be easily removable as that gray area is the access to the whole house humidifer. These will friction fit once the bottom is in place.


All in place. The clock and thermometer will come down. And last night I painted them the same color as the wall as a test proved that the white will show through the cloth. That little box on the top right will be mounted over that LV box. It's for my rear speaker. I'l lbe using a Denon 3806 that supports 6.1.


Hoping to get the cloth stapled and have them in place on Saturday. Sunday planning to clean out the garage in order to make room for all the tools that are currently in the basement. I know it will mean more up and down the stairs, but the number of tools required to finish is much smaller now.

OK...a little progress

Painted the frames and installed the 2" OC703...


Added fabric and mounted frames on wall.....


I noticed that if I put my ear right up to the upper left panel I can still hear the humidifier/furnance but as soon as I back away about three steps I can't hear it at all. I'm thinking what noise I am hearing is comming from the temporary door into the furnace room.

I need to pick up a black outlet cover and a cover for the speaker outlet. I'm thinking a black solid cover plate and drill a hole for the wire. I also painted the return air grill black. One night this week I will add those.

Didn't get the garage done the way I wanted on Sunday. It was SUPPOSED to be in the 60s and a nice day. Turned out to be barely 60 and gray, rainy and drizzly all day. Just enough to wet everything down, so we didn't pull everything out to re-organize. But we did hit the top layer...the stray Halloween decorations and the Christmas decorations all got put away in the shed, broke down boxes (you know...the empty one's we needed to keep IN CASE we have to ship something), got rid of a couple of boxes of shipping peanuts and bubble wrap (you know, IN CASE we have to ship something). That at least made a path and we have a plan for what to clear out to make room for the rolling tool shelves.

Oh, and I wanted to mention that I had been using the cheap RCA HtiB reciever (the one I use for the deck) until I get the Denon down there. The RCA uses those spring-loaded clips that only can accpet a thin gauge wire. So I picked up some of those connectors that end in a long thin point, like this....


The problem is, all I could find were the twist-on type and the wire kept coming off the connector. And I wasn't happy with the sound I was getting anyway. So....I swapped it for an Insignia I had picked up for the family room that wasn't being used. IT is newer, about 5 pounds heavier and has 5-way binding posts. Plus 3 HDMI inputs and supports newer codecs. WHAT DIFFERENCE! Much better surround, much more power.

I gotta get the Denon in there.

THANKS! It came out looking pretty good if I DO say so myself!

A couple of 2.5" coarse drywall screws in each 2'x4' panel for the lower and upper right frames. The upper left just friction fit. The OC just needs to be held against the wall until the frame goes up.

A few more words on what/how/why I did it like this.

Normally, when you cut out the fabric for the outlet and return, you leave enough to fold over the edge and staple it in place. That's what I did for all my other frames because I don't intend to remove them so those frames are attached directly to the wall. The staples on top are hidden by the molding.

In order to hide the staples for this wall, I had to be able to wrap the fabric and staple it in back and still be able to hang the frame. The bottom frame was too big to friction fit the OC and still be able to mount it. AND it has the little frames for the outlet and HVAC return. It would be too hard to get all the OC to line up properly while trying to hang the frame, so it was easier to attach the OC to the wall and mount the frame over it. What I'll do for the little frames to keep the panel removable is, instead of stapling it, I'll use spray adhesive. It's the same stuff I used on the black fabric behind the screen wall. Spray on one surface and the material removable. Spray on both surfaces and it's pretty permanate. I'll spray one surface and if I need to remove the panels, I'll remove the covers, pull up the tacked down fabric and pull the panel up and off.

A little MORE progress.....3 day weekend......

Dressed out that back wall and added the trim to that wall and the one wall in the bar area....

Back wall, dressed and trimmed...painted the white return grill black, too.


The bar area wall....one with flash, one without.




The heigth of the back wall trim matches the heigth of the high part of the other wall. Also, the back wall trim is placed right at the top line of that big bottom frame, so I should be able to remove the top frames without disturbing the bottom. And IF I need to, the botton one will still lift off the french cleats.

Also gave the room a general cleanup...two bags of trash and two boxes of recycling. I can see the top of the bar!
Edited by tlogan6797 - 1/22/13 at 5:31am

Do I have a plan.....you guys crack me up.


No, but I think each of the projects are smaller and easier to complete in a weekend. Getting the bar done and floor down will clean up a lot of the stuff lying around. I've had all of the parts cut and ready to go for quite a while and then changed the plan as to when I would finish that side of the room.

ON the plus side, the theater area is GREAT! We watched two BDs (Hangover 2 and Hope Springs) and streamed Netflix (Season of the Witch and Hollow Man). Netflix only buffered once through both movies.