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Need motivation? Get "LOGANED" - Page 115

post #3421 of 3638
Thread Starter 
Yes, I did. I was holding out to post some pics of the process, but apparently I didn't take the pictures I thought I did, so I don't think they will do much good. But here goes anyway....

With MANY MANY MANY thanks to Cuzed2, I got the driver replaced in my SVS cylinder sub. Cuzed2 pointed me to a near identical replacement driver at Parts Express, for less than I was able to get from SVS. Tha PE driver made by TC Sounds is a dual voice coil (DVC). The OEM from SVS, of course is of unknown manufacturer. The original was a single voice coil. The replacement basically just dropped right in.

I thought I had more pictures of every step, but here's what I have.

1) remove bottom of speaker
2) Unscrew the 8 screws holding in the driver
3) remove old driver
4) cut off the spade connections and strip wire
5) Attached new wires in series to the dual drivers
6) drop in
7) screw down
8) replace bottom of speaker

And just for reference, here's the amp....

I did notice that I've had to crank up the gain on this driver. It's seems much "tighter" than the OEM driver. Less "boomy," so I feel the need to crank it up to get the same effect.

Cuz, if you're reading, this check out the first page!
post #3422 of 3638
Nicely done and thanks for the pics. The sub should loosen up as you break it in. It will probably be 50 - 100 hours or so before you really know what you got. You could also get a break-in disc and let it play for a while. That's a great driver though.
post #3423 of 3638
Thread Starter 
While working in the basement over the weekend I had the tuner on a classic rock station, and I did notice that I thought bass sounded better. I probably only have 10 or 12 hours on it so far, so, I guess I have a ways to go to break it in.
post #3424 of 3638
Hey, that progress looks good. Nicely done. Good news on the sub as well. Sounds as though it was not too tough of a fix. Always nice when something actually turns out to be relatively simple, as it usually the other way round.


post #3425 of 3638
Thread Starter 
Thanks. Hoping to get more done as the cold weather sets in and the holidays are over.
Always nice when something actually turns out to be relatively simple, as it usually the other way round.

Ain't it the truth, Brother!
post #3426 of 3638
So, uh, did you miss me?

I actually started working on the HT again...after a few weeks.......months.. years. Guess I need to get active on AVS again!
post #3427 of 3638
Thread Starter 
Of course! I miss EVERYBODY!

Been making some progress myself. This past weekend I added the trim around the sliding door. Just got tired of looking at the unfinished door since all the walls around it are pretty well complete. I TRIED to take some before/after pics but the "befores" just weren't comming out. TIme of day or something, but with and without the flash it just wasn't working. So one of thesedays a post an "after."

And yesterday I had to take the dog to the vet and one of the meds said it can cause drowsiness AND vomiting/diareah, so I thought I should keep an eye on him all day as that doesn't sound like a good combination of side effects. So I spent some time prgramming the URC 980. It is a steep learning curve, but I'm at least figuring out how to add all of my devices and learn the codes.
post #3428 of 3638
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

So I spent some time prgramming the URC 980. It is a steep learning curve, but I'm at least figuring out how to add all of my devices and learn the codes.

Steep learning curves are good. You learn a lot really quickly and make lots of progress. smile.gif
post #3429 of 3638
Thread Starter 
Yes, you do. I got basic functionality for my temp amp and BD player through RF to IR (tired of pointing behind me). Got to add the Insteon lighting and see if I can get the projector working. Then next step will be figuring out the macros.
post #3430 of 3638
I am not at all impressed with the Insteon IR unit. It's a bear to program, it is flaky, and takes a long time to synch. I also find that the remote battery lasts a week and a half, then needs to be recharged. It catches me by surprise every time. I need to put the charging station into the theater so that I can remember to put it in the cradle to charge periodically.
post #3431 of 3638
Thread Starter 
I bought what I THINK are dual bans so they SHOULD work with RF instead of IR. I got URC to learn the IR codes last night and they work, so I can elimante one more remote. It's clunky, but it wokrs. I tried blasting the Insteon codes through RF but no go. I'll have to dp some research in the Automation thread to seewaht I need to do. I have an idea that if I have to, I can use one of the URC RF/IR blasters to go to the Insteon IR receiver.
post #3432 of 3638
The frequencies are different. The MX-980 transmits at 418MHz, while the Insteon stuff works at 915 MHz. You need to use an IR to Insteon Converter.

Found here: http://www.smarthome.com/2411R/IRLinc-Receiver-IR-to-INSTEON-Converter/p.aspx

I've not had much luck making this work...it's difficult to program and generally a piece of garbage. I'm still working to make it work, but it's tough.
post #3433 of 3638
Thread Starter 
In doing a little more research yesterday I DID come across a reference to the 915Mhz. I DO have the IRLinc.

Last night I moved the IRLinc to the back of the room and pointed a blaster from the MRF260 at the IR reciever. That seemed to do the trick. It's just a little kludgy. Just seems cleaner to be able to go RF direct to the lights and save a blaster space in the rack. I DID spend the extra $10 for the dual bands. There MUST be an Insteon RF reciever that I'm just not finding on the SmartHome site.
post #3434 of 3638
The problem is programming the darn thing. Instead of picking up the links between devices, this darn thing needs to have every link made in it too. It's not intuitive and it really takes some time to synch with the rest of the house (I'n using the Homelinc controller to sync the house).

Maybe there are some tips that I'm missing, but it's a bear. Certainly not up to the level of the other Insteon devices.
post #3435 of 3638
Thread Starter 
Hmmm....I haven't gotten to programming any scenes yet. At this point, I'm just trying to get down to one remote that I don't have to point behind me. I'm hoping I can use the URC 980 to program the scenes.
post #3436 of 3638
You could do that. I tried to set up the scenes in the IR Link device. It was hard to program, but as I said, maybe I missed something. You are going to have to wade into the programming of the IR linc as well at some point.
post #3437 of 3638
Thread Starter 
With some help from BritInVA to figure out how to rename the buttons, I got my devices added to the URC 980.

DB player

At least I'm down to one remote once I sit down to watch something. The MRF station only has 4 IR blasters, so I guess I need to add (buy) some double-headed blasters and I need to research IR over cat6 to get to the front of the room for the screen and to the middle of the room for the projector (I already have the cat run). THEN I can start thinking about programming macros.

Also, got about 3/4 of the length of the bar rail sanded.
post #3438 of 3638
Great news Tom! It's not that hard once you get the hang of it. I had thought about using an IR repeater in my room, but I find that pointing the remote at the screen and bouncing the IR off the screen to the projector works really well.

If you want to find double headed blasters, then try this from monoprice:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10105&cs_id=1010503&p_id=7537&seq=1&format=4 It's a whole kit, but you get four double headed blasters for less than $20. The wiring specs for the blasters can be found online pretty easily as well.

For macro programming, take some time and really think about how you want things to happen. That seems to be the hardest part of it, IMHO.

Progress is good, no?
post #3439 of 3638
Thread Starter 
Thanks, that's basically what I'm looking for. I was pretty sure I'd seen a kit that can be extended over cat for the long runs. I'll do some searching.
I had thought about using an IR repeater in my room, but I find that pointing the remote at the screen and bouncing the IR off the screen to the projector works really well.

That's kind of been a crapshoot for me. And right now, since I don't have any macros, I pretty much turn the projector on when I putting in the disk and turn it off when I take it out. I set up the aspect ratios and focus for 16:9 and 231 so that all happens automatically (just wish I could turn off the "processing" message). And again, I'm using the remote to throw RF to the back of the room and then convert to IR so it doesn't matter where in the room the remote is or pointed (WAF!). The IR receiver on the screen is hidden so I have to run one there, so it's just as easy to run one to the projector.

Oh, progress? Pretty slow at this point. I'm at the sanding stage. Really not much I want to do until I get that done. Stain, tile, then floor. Hmmm...maybe I can install a REAL door into the mechanical room......
post #3440 of 3638
Thread Starter 
So after searching around, all I REALLY need to do is to extend the IR blaster(s) from the back of the room to the front. I SHOULD be able to do that just by using the existing cat to make a long 3.5mm stereo extension cable, yes? A few male/female 3.5mm jacks from Rat Shack should do it, shouldn't it?
post #3441 of 3638
Yes, absolutely. Did you try the bounce trick?
post #3442 of 3638
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

...automatically (just wish I could turn off the "processing" message).

The new Panny 7000 removes this, or so I've heard! Time for an upgrade? smile.gif

[whispers to himself...."so it has begun....."]
post #3443 of 3638
Thread Starter 
Then, to Rat Shack it is!

Pffttt...7000. IF I were to upgrade it would be to the 8k.
Did you try the bounce trick?

Yes, that's been the crapshoot part. MOST of time I have to be in the seat or right under the projector to get it to bounce. If I extend the IR blaster and use RF via the remote, I can turn it on from the back of the room while I'm inserting a disk, or whatever and won't have to walk up to it.
post #3444 of 3638
Only $2,800! biggrin.gif
post #3445 of 3638
Thread Starter 
Just a couple of non-photo worthy updates......

I bought the IR extender kit from Parts Express. It comes with 4 double headed blasters. And the reveiver and power supply, all for $17. The cheapest double-headed blaster I found elsewhere was $12. And even at PE, buying 4 individual ones wasn't cost effective. AND I had them thow in two 25' 3.5mm extension cable just in case. I think they were in $2.00 range each. You just can't beat these prices.

And, since I had a forced vacation day yeterday (that I was pretty sure was comming), I stopped in at HD Tuesday night for some supplies. I saw a coupel of weeks ago that thy now carry this..Zipwall Zipper.

So I picked up one (actually there's two in the box) and a small pack of plastic sheeting. I wanted to set up a sanding station in the hallway between the theater and the storage area. So I created two zippered walls, set up the station and sanded all the trim parts for the bar. It worked out great. There was virtually no dust in the theater area outside the station. I used 2mil plastic, thinking I can reuse it if I need to.

This weekend....pick a stain!
post #3446 of 3638
That drywall zipper looks kinda cool. WAY better than duct tape cool.gif
post #3447 of 3638
Thread Starter 
A little pricey, but it is high quality. They're cloth with a REALLY sticky glue. Zipper pulls on both sides so you can open it from either side. And if you follow the directions and put up the plastic first, they include a tool with two little razor cutters about an inch apart that you can run down from top to bottom to cut away any plastic that might get caught in the zipper. And they include these little hangers that if you want to use the two zippers to make a big flap, you can roll up the flap and hang it on them.

Overall, I'm pretty happy with them.
post #3448 of 3638
Thread Starter 
OK, so I'll add pictures.....

Here's what my bar looked like before starting this phase of the project. EVERY flat surface becomes a work table.

Here's the sanding station I set up with the zippers applied to the plastic. It worked out great.

Sanded trim pieces.

Here's the stain and finish I bought. I got great help and advice at the Woodcraft Store.

Stained trim pieces. Red Oak.

This weekend I'm hoping to stain the skin of the bar and back bar. Then assemble everything. I'm thinking I'll apply the finish once everything is put together.
post #3449 of 3638

How did the gel stain work for you? I have not had very good luck with the gel stains, they don't seem to penetrate as well as the others. What's done looks good though, that is a very rich looking color. How true about any flat surface becoming a work area during construction.


post #3450 of 3638
Thread Starter 
This is my first attempt using a gel stain and I thought it was VERY easy. As I said, I went to the local Woodcraft store rather than one of the big boxes.I had picked up a couple of small cans of Minwax, but I started to think I wanted this to look REALLY good and was willing to put in the time. So I got some really good advice at the store.

In my limtied experience, I think the thing about the gel is that it DOESN'T penetrate as deeply or as QUICKLY. But, that gives you time to work with it. You can, if you need to, wipe almost all of it back off. So, if you've overdone a spot you have the working time to even it out. I applied using rags. I cut up an old undershirt into about 10 small rags. The one you use to apply will get really saturated. After you cover the entire piece, you take a clean(er) rag and go over the surface smoothing out the color. I found that I could actually give it a light buff. The nice thing about the gel is that it doesn't run or drip. What the guy at the store told me is that if it is REALLY bad, you can re-sand pretty easily, BECAUSE it doens't penetrate as deeply.

DO NOT use latex gloves! I'm STILL trying to clean the stain (oil based!) from around my fingernails where the glove tips disolved. Last night I picked up a pair of gloves for using solvents and they worked out much better. I could see a couple of spots on some of the pieces where I didn't work into the grain enough and touched them up. I used a tiny bit on the rag, worked it and then a clean rag to to take it off the areas I didn't need it. I think they'll look fine. Then I had a few pieces left to stain.

When I went to the store I took some sample pieces and the guy used a little of the stain on them so I got a REALLY good idea of the color. Just to practice a little and double-check, the color, I went over what he had done in the store and it was far too dark, so I knew one coat would be enough.

Big key is to let it dry THOROUGHLY. Like 24 hrs. Can says 6, but humididity and temperature all affect drying time. My plan is to stain then let it dry at least overnight. I'll do the same when I apply the finish. You know me, I'm not in any hurry.

And finally, there really is no color difference in the pieces on top of the bar and the pieces below. I about crapped when I went down the next day to check. It's due to the lighting. I put one of the peices on top under the bar with the others and they matched up. The pieces under the bar are the truer brown. Which will work nicely with the laminte floor I have.
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