What about building a small step out of the same tile you used on the top. I'm not sure what I think about the aesthetics of a step down there, and sadly it would cover your freshly installed baseboard.
So far, all I've seen available as "bar foot rest" is brass or stainless steel running at LEAST $10/ft. Mounting brackets are in the $30 range. Now these are the prices for the standard polished finishes. I think that if I'm going to do it, I would want the oiled (i.e., darker) finish and that drives the price up even more.
I'm looking at probably 15/16 feet of rail and 7 brackets. Plus connectors.
Talked to any metal shops locally? Maybe they could do something in a powder coated or painted steal. We had a railing built for an overlook in our house that has a curved railing and curved spindles. Not sure of the cost, but a local metal shop did it. It wouldn't be as flashy as a stainless or bronze piece, but I doubt it'll cost as much either!
The cheapest footrest solution I've seen that is a nice look (IMHO) is using the standard black steel pipe available at the big box retailers. Mount to your bar or preferably mount from the floor. Plenty of connectors, flanges, etc. available.
I need some motivation. I've been Loganed already.
I have one final hiking trip this year, at least for what is planned, so my weekends should be a little more free, although I'll still have to watch my son quite a bit.
I have a question for the wise people who read this thread.
The ceiling needs Insulation, electrical wiring, speaker wires, and drywall furring channel installed in the ceiling. What is the proper order of battle? I am thinking insulation should go up before the furring channel, to make it easier. It shouldn't be hard to do electrical after the insulation, right? So proper order would be: Insulation, wiring, THEN drywall furring channel last, right?
Hmmmm...don't know how I missed this fro mthe other day.
Well, what do you know? ACTUAL build discussion in THIS thread?
OK, are you working under permits? IF so, you HAVE to do the insulation last becasue the inspectors need to see the wiring, plumbing, HVAC. You'll get a "close in" inspection for insulation (which, around here all they're really interested in is the fireblocking) and then you can drywall and finish.
And it's not a bad idea to do that anyway. SO, I would do (and I did) any old work can lights you may be doing (and backer boxes if you're doing them), then run wiring to the lights, then speaker wiring so that you can separate from the LV from the AC, then clips and channel. It's really easier to fit the isulation up around everything that is up there then to be up there trying to drill holes through joists and attaching clips with the insulation in the way. And if you do the channel first it helps hold up the insulation.
And one more tip I like about wiring, especially with these zoned systems...make sure you run power to the switch box, NOT to the fixture and then run the switch from there. I think that in most of these remote dimmer sytems, you need the neutral at the switch. Running the switch from the fixture will not do that for you without confusing everything. AND as a side beneift, you know that if you turn off the switch, there is no power at the fixture. Edited by tlogan6797 - 8/26/13 at 1:30pm
I "wasted" a great saturday morning by screwing around with electrical.
I have a 3-way switch situation in the stairwell and 1 light at the top of the landing in the stairwell. I was going to "simply" add a 2nd light (at the bottom) on the 3-way circuit so I would have better lighting in the stairwell. The builder installed drywall in the walls and ceiling in the stairwell (might be required by code anyway, idk)
Well, easier said than done. Basically the problem is that 1/2 of the circuit is already buried in drywall, and I can get to the other half. Well, the way 3-way switch circuits are done, I have power coming in one side (bottom of stairs) and then the runner over the other switch, and then 2-wire going to the light. So it appears I would have to remove some drywall in the ceiling of my stairwell to run a power wire down to the 2nd light location.
--- 2 wire
=== 3 wire
B bulb (don't know what else to use)
HR home run
HR --- $$ ======= $$ ----B
and what I need is
HR --- $$ ======= $$ ----B ---- B
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ that is the wiring I have access to.
One way I might be able to get to work, if I can fish another length of 12/2 into the closed-in switch box, I could run that all the way down and around for the new light. A pain for sure but that should work
HR --- $$ ======= $$ ----B
I should probably pay an electrician to drop a panel in the basement soon, they current way it's wired makes no sense. But even then this is going to be a problem and I'm not sure it can be fixed w/o removing drywall.
Thanks for the suggestions on insulation. I guess that will be coming last.
Not sure how the Lutrons work for a three way; I used Insteon. I wired the 3-way the normal way at first, running power to the first switch then a 3-wire to the 3-way switch. When I swapped out the regular switches for the Insteons, this is what Idid to get the neutral over to the other switch:
At the box with power, I pulled everything out and added a pigtail for the switch in that box and then re-purposed the 3-wire by pigtailing IT to the power wires.
So there is power in to the first box (BL,WH,GR), and then tied to those is a short pigtail (BL,WH,GR) to wire the switch AND the BL,WH,GR of the 3-wire over to the other switch box. The RED is capped off inside both boxes. Now you have the Hot and nuetral over to the other switch box and you can wire in the new switch.
Again, this is all based on how Insteon works. Lutron may be different. Insteon used the neutral to communicate with all the switches, so there MUST be a neutral at the switch.
The weekend plan:
1) Move the Denon 3806 and cable box from the Living Room down to the basement, install new monoprice 4x4 matrix and add new devices to URX MX980.
2) Move the Mits 65", BR Player, MAtrix switch from Living room and temp amp from basement into Family Room
3) Cut and asemble the facings for the bar cabinets
4) SIt on butt and drink
I ended up spending the ENTIRE three-day weekend messing (that's the only nice word I could think of!) around with the equipment. I moved the Denon 3806 and cable box from the Living Room to their permanent place in the basement. I also bought another 4X4 matrix and figured, how long can THIS take? All I have to do is pull out the temp amp, put in the new stuff, rewire to the matrix switch (ALL HDM) and update my remote (URC MX980).
To get a jump on it, I got off early Friday (had some comp time) and moved the Denon Friday afternoon. MAN that thing is HEAVY. Put everything back into enough working order to watch Premium Rush.
Saturday, I just need to pull the cable box, hook it up, install the switch and program the remote. BUT NOOOOoooooo. Turns out, I had to put an end on the cable coax. Fire it up, NOTHING. I still had to tap into the cable line. To do that, I had to pull down the false screen wall and take down the screen to get to the access panel I left in the soffit. I had a 2-way splitter in there but needed to swap it out for a 3-way AND put a connector on that end of the cable, too. At which point my son reminds me that I promised him we'd go to Micro Center to pick up a birthday present for him. And I realize I'm an HDMI cable short for the hookups in the basement. No problem, I'll get them at Micro Center. Two and half hours later, I'm back at it. Working up there was a LOT easier BEFORE the drywall went up. The splitter was WAAAAY back in there and I could only reach one hand in. Ever try lining up and tightening an F-connector one-handed? In the dark (flash light went dead)? So, got that done, installed the matrix and got everything back into working order enough to watch Act of Valor.
So, Sunday, amongst all the regular chores that I've now put off for two days, all I have to do is program the remote and move the rest of the stuff from the Living Room into the Family Room. Turns out , programming the remote was the realtively easy part. Getting all the parts to talk to each other (HDMI handshakes, etc) and all the switching to work is something else altogether. BUT, got everything working and all the devices prgrammed into the remote and back together in time to watch A Good Day to Die Hard.
MONDAY all I have to do is move the rest of the stuff from the Living Room to the Family Room. And cook breakfast. Start the move and first thing, the CD Player doens fit in the new cabinet. And the amp is REALLY tight. This cabinet is not as deep as the old one. SO, frost thing. I have to pull the back off and cut out the middle section so that the equipemnt fits. THEN get everything else in there and rewire and reprogram THAT remote. Turns out the DVR cable box up there isn't putting out an HDMI Signal, or ANY digital sound (SPDIF OR OPTICAL). I WONDERED why I had component output set up. Anyway, "messed around" with that for a good long while and decided that next weekend I'll swap out the cable box for a new one that DOES output hdmi and digital.
I don't know if I'm tougher than your Grandma, but dammit I think I'm willing to try. I fight dirty and quite frankly unless I really need to I don't intend to get out of the car. It has air conditioning and a comfy seat and it can be used to run over people. People like your Grandma...