Okay today I had to run around and try to find a specific (5mm) drill bit for my LED project. I spent probably $20 on gas yesterday and was in not in the mood for anymore runarounds. (I owe the guy at Harbor freight who "knew for a fact" that Sears or Home Deport carried them... a punch in the short hairs.)
Today even on a sunday, I struck gold and a place in Pontiac Michigan called Performance Tool
said they did not carry metric bit kits, but were sure they had numbered bits they could get closer than with std American bits. When I arrived the guy actually remembered they had a single 5mm bit that was used for drilling pegs in cabinets as that was the standard size for them. I figured $10 for a fancy bit was worth it to minimize gas costs.
Picture of the bit, I will remove the C-clip and take off the spring so I can drill over 1" depth instead of it limiting to 1/3" depth.**Update, no need to remove the spring/c-clip it goes through the back of the shelf (Barely)**Performance Tool had a Dewalt special
on 18v batteries. If under warranty, they replace them for free, if they test bad, they will sell you a replacement for $10. Much better than the $100 at HD/Lowes.
Next I figured out I can use my wife's hot glue gun on the LEDs to hold them in place as well as help with diffusion. Man she got pissed when I asked to borrow it, she hasn't used it in 8 years, but evidently, she thinks of it as a family treasure... so after spying on where she kept it, when she left the house, I snagged it and used it.
Picture of the peice of crap and the application to my glorious blue LED.
So next I removed all the LEDs except the center row based on feedback. I am not too fond of 5 LEDs per row, only because it looks like I have rope light behind the glass. Here is what it looks like with just the center row lit up:
I had to take a break and take my son to driver's ed (WTF on a sunday?). Took him to the highschool and he told me where to drop him off. When I was about to let him out, I spotted the instructor sitting in a yellow Dodge Caliber off on a different road and the lil brat mumbled "I guess I should have told you to go over there so I didn't have to walk"
Well that lit me up just a bit, so I jerked the wheel to the right and launched my 4x4 Blazer up over the curb, across the median area, off the curb (while my spoiled brat grabbed the bitch-bar with silver-dollar eyes), pulled another right, and skid to a stop right beside the instuctors door..
My son mumbled "Oooh my God, dad, you did NOT just do that!"
"See you at 3 son!" and I took off.Back to work on the man cave..
I solved my spacing issue in the ceiling joists by ordering Integrity Gasket
from Amazon. I had $100 in gift cards that were about to expire so I figured I would give it a shot...Dinner break.
My wife thinks she is a gourmet cook, yet somehow once again I am eating pizza out of a fricken box!
My neighbor Mark stopped by to help me snap a line so I can proceed with installing light cans.
Office Lights Before:CAN INSTALLATION TIP:
Snap a centered chalk line inline where you want the can to sit, then take the light can and makr center on it. Most already have a small dimple where center is, but take a pencil and draw it out on the flat metal around the can so you can easily match it up to the chalk line.
Next I moved the existing light out of the way (After breaking the bulb dure to hammering the stud next to it) along with the romex. (I will ask Mark to help me cut them in).
Next after I thought I was done, I stepped back to snap a picture and then let out a few choice cuss words... notice anything wrong?That's correct boys and girls
, I actually installed the &^%*^%$ can right NEXT to the other one, I was kind of in a trance/ in the zone... and moved the ladder slightly when going to get the other can off the shelf... came back and nailed it up. Yes I am a ******!
After fixing that monumental screw up, the end result is 3 evenly spaced can lights in the office ready to be lit up.
Next I measured cable distance needed from server rack to PJ = 25 ft.
--Going to order HDMI
, and use my existing CAT6 to wire to PJ. Any objections to this?
Measured cable distance needed from server rack to front wall =
--20' RG6 for Left Sub
--23' Reference for Center (12 AWG speaker wire will be ordered later)
--27' RG6 for Right Sub (Future)