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The "NOT HERS" HT/Basement Build - The Suffering Begins - Page 5

post #121 of 802
Thread Starter 
Crap, the surrounds I was looking at (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=246-850) appear to be 4 ohm, not sure if the receiver I have yet to buy will have an issue with this or not..
post #122 of 802
Quote:
Originally Posted by Staffy View Post

Crap, the surrounds I was looking at (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=246-850) appear to be 4 ohm, not sure if the receiver I have yet to buy will have an issue with this or not..

I've enjoyed the thread! (I plan to steal some ideas.....not for the HT, but bastardly tricks to use on the wife) The pants thing killed me.

I believe you were looking at the Denon.(?) It will power those surrounds without a fuss. I powered 5 Polk LSi's with a 2802 with no issues, not even getting overly warm. (though I did add a 5 channel amp this year)

No worries with the Denon, especially if it's only 2 surrounds.
post #123 of 802
Quote:
Originally Posted by Staffy View Post

Stupid followup question... I have seen some folks put in speakers aimed at the primary seating position, while others seem to fire off at a 90 degree angle from the wall... which is the best way?

It depends, at least in part, on your choice in speakers. There is an article on this subject on the AVS homepage. Here it is: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1055412 That should help you out here.
post #124 of 802
Thread Starter 
QUESTION!!??

Since I am thinking of getting the Panny AE2000, I am going to order the wires now to go through the conduit. (25')

Do I need anything else other than:
1 - HDMI
1 - Composite
1 - Cat 6

????
post #125 of 802
Thread Starter 
8/13/2008

Tonight I finalized the surround placement after measuring 5x. Looks like I will have 7" of width clearance to work with. I am going to go with a mount that will allow me to aim it correctly.


I then put on drywall in the utility room so I could attach wire mounts to it. Not sure why 3 outlets to cut around would take me 1.5 hours to do... but it did!
post #126 of 802
Thread Starter 
8/14/2008

Not alot of time after work and kids and 2 hours searching for the correct color to match my new carpet to be ordered soon.. still not sure I succeeded here...

Here are the color painted swatches..



Here are the completed wire mounts on the new drywall. These will handle the L C R front wall as well as all of the wiring for the hidden media storage. I also punched out 2 center holes in the drywall where power cords and wiring will be going through seperate holes to be drilled out tonight.
post #127 of 802
Quote:
Originally Posted by Staffy View Post

QUESTION!!??

Since I am thinking of getting the Panny AE2000, I am going to order the wires now to go through the conduit. (25')

Do I need anything else other than:
1 - HDMI
1 - Composite
1 - Cat 6

????

I am most likely getting the same projector and I ran all of the above plus a VGA cable for easy laptop/computer hookup.
post #128 of 802
The Panny AE2000 does not have composite input, I assume you mean component. You might want to run an S-video just in case, although I haven't used S-video in 10 years.
post #129 of 802
Quote:
Originally Posted by whumpf View Post

The Panny AE2000 does not have composite input, I assume you mean component. You might want to run an S-video just in case, although I haven't used S-video in 10 years.

Yeah... I ran component.. not composite. I second this.
post #130 of 802
Look into bundled cables from monoprice, they sell one that has 5 RG 6 and 2 Cat 5e in it. With the 2 Cat5's you can terminate with an HDMI connector, then you have your components and a composit if you want. Then all you have to do is run a single additional Cat 5e for control capability.
post #131 of 802
Thread Starter 
Any quality problems with the CAT5 to HDMI? I have never heard of doing that before, but then again I am a noob.
post #132 of 802
Quote:
Originally Posted by Staffy View Post

Any quality problems with the CAT5 to HDMI? I have never heard of doing that before, but then again I am a noob.

Not that I am aware of, a friend of mine that does installations recommended it to me as an alternative. It is a newer product but he has done probably a dozen installs with it and said it works fine. I can ask some specifics and let ya know...it will be a couple of days til I see him again though...out of town for work right now.
post #133 of 802
Quote:
Originally Posted by Staffy View Post

QUESTION!!??

Since I am thinking of getting the Panny AE2000, I am going to order the wires now to go through the conduit. (25')

Do I need anything else other than:
1 - HDMI
1 - Composite
1 - Cat 6

????

Run 1 or 2 lines of string/rope so that you can easily feed whatever cable you need in the future.
post #134 of 802
Staffy, love the threa, I also recently bought a house and have an unfinished basement, which will become my mancave...I love the idea of the sliding DVD contraption, but I can't view your link on youtube. Can you re-post it?
post #135 of 802
Thread Starter 
Sent in PM - let me know what you think
post #136 of 802
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

Run 1 or 2 lines of string/rope so that you can easily feed whatever cable you need in the future.

I ran conduit from the PJ about 12 feet into the other room which will have a dropped ceiling. There was no way for me to run conduit to my server rack because of the ceiling height and air return in the side-room.

So if I put it in now, I can still change it all later, but it will save me hours and hours of fighting super-tight spaces if I put it in now

I already have string from the PJ to the side room. (cake)
post #137 of 802
Thread Starter 
8/15/2008

Nothing really to take pics of in this update, we did a bunch of wiring in preparation of putting insulation on the walls.

We started to work on a little addition to ProjectX.. hidden media storage. I bought a few hundred LED lights some different angles and colors. Below is a test of 3 different types. Bright blue, bright white, and wide angled white.

Lights on test:

Lights off test:


We chose to go with blue, it just looks cooler against the black back and shelves.
post #138 of 802
Thread Starter 
8/16/2008

Tonight my neighbor Mark and I worked on finishing the first mock-up with LEDs. We both learned alot about LEDs and he taught me a ton about resistors and why I needed what values, etc. The guy should be a teacher because he puts up with my dumbass questions and doesn't laugh... but if I catch him making a mistake, man he gets it good for an hour

During the assembly time, Mark "hogged" the soldering iron and burned himself slightly (yes I laughed). The guy soldered like 100 peices faste than crap, I had thought he had only done half by the time he completed it all!

I was reduced to cleanup bitch, sanded on the shelves for about an hour to fix a tight fit with the glass, worked on the office area light placement, swept, tool organized, and tried to figure out what the heck to do about a ceiling that has a joist that hangs down 1/3" every 3rd one...

The end result of the initial mock-up is awesome, the shelves light up when the storage unit opens.

Front view lights on:


Front view lights off:


Side view light off:


--BASK in all of it's glory!!!!


Next steps are finding a 5 mm drill bit to drill the correct sized holes on the other shelves, and try to figure out what I can use for spacers on ceiling joists.. I was contemplating neoprene strips, maybe roofing felt. An alternative is to shave down the ones handing down, but I don't want to weaken them at all, plus avoid a huge mess to cleanup!
post #139 of 802
:/ I kinda liked the look of the single led... like a horizontal Alien Movie Logo thing.. or a Sony blu-ray player... in real life are the shelves lit evenly or do you have hotspots with the multiple setup?

also how do they turn on, I think it would be cool if they dimmed on once its fully open instead of all on as soon as it starts.... iono why I htink it would be cooler, but I just do lol
post #140 of 802
Thread Starter 
The are triggered by a switch only when the shelf is OPEN. As soon as it closes, they go off. I could do dimming later.

On the spacers, another thread mentioned this product which if I dbl up on it, mught do the trick as well as slightly help with the foot stomps from upstairs..

http://www.integritygasket.com/


Hmm I can get it from Amazon (Click Here)

And I have 100$ giftcard I need to use or it expires...
post #141 of 802
Thread Starter 
8/17/2008

Okay today I had to run around and try to find a specific (5mm) drill bit for my LED project. I spent probably $20 on gas yesterday and was in not in the mood for anymore runarounds. (I owe the guy at Harbor freight who "knew for a fact" that Sears or Home Deport carried them... a punch in the short hairs.)

Today even on a sunday, I struck gold and a place in Pontiac Michigan called Performance Tool said they did not carry metric bit kits, but were sure they had numbered bits they could get closer than with std American bits. When I arrived the guy actually remembered they had a single 5mm bit that was used for drilling pegs in cabinets as that was the standard size for them. I figured $10 for a fancy bit was worth it to minimize gas costs.

Picture of the bit, I will remove the C-clip and take off the spring so I can drill over 1" depth instead of it limiting to 1/3" depth.

**Update, no need to remove the spring/c-clip it goes through the back of the shelf (Barely)

**Performance Tool had a Dewalt special on 18v batteries. If under warranty, they replace them for free, if they test bad, they will sell you a replacement for $10. Much better than the $100 at HD/Lowes.

Next I figured out I can use my wife's hot glue gun on the LEDs to hold them in place as well as help with diffusion. Man she got pissed when I asked to borrow it, she hasn't used it in 8 years, but evidently, she thinks of it as a family treasure... so after spying on where she kept it, when she left the house, I snagged it and used it.

Picture of the peice of crap and the application to my glorious blue LED.


So next I removed all the LEDs except the center row based on feedback. I am not too fond of 5 LEDs per row, only because it looks like I have rope light behind the glass. Here is what it looks like with just the center row lit up:


I had to take a break and take my son to driver's ed (WTF on a sunday?). Took him to the highschool and he told me where to drop him off. When I was about to let him out, I spotted the instructor sitting in a yellow Dodge Caliber off on a different road and the lil brat mumbled "I guess I should have told you to go over there so I didn't have to walk"

Well that lit me up just a bit, so I jerked the wheel to the right and launched my 4x4 Blazer up over the curb, across the median area, off the curb (while my spoiled brat grabbed the bitch-bar with silver-dollar eyes), pulled another right, and skid to a stop right beside the instuctors door..

My son mumbled "Oooh my God, dad, you did NOT just do that!"
"See you at 3 son!" and I took off.

Back to work on the man cave..

I solved my spacing issue in the ceiling joists by ordering Integrity Gasket from Amazon. I had $100 in gift cards that were about to expire so I figured I would give it a shot.

..Dinner break. My wife thinks she is a gourmet cook, yet somehow once again I am eating pizza out of a fricken box!

My neighbor Mark stopped by to help me snap a line so I can proceed with installing light cans.

Office Lights Before:


CAN INSTALLATION TIP: Snap a centered chalk line inline where you want the can to sit, then take the light can and makr center on it. Most already have a small dimple where center is, but take a pencil and draw it out on the flat metal around the can so you can easily match it up to the chalk line.

Example:


Next I moved the existing light out of the way (After breaking the bulb dure to hammering the stud next to it) along with the romex. (I will ask Mark to help me cut them in).


Next after I thought I was done, I stepped back to snap a picture and then let out a few choice cuss words... notice anything wrong?

That's correct boys and girls, I actually installed the &^%*^%$ can right NEXT to the other one, I was kind of in a trance/ in the zone... and moved the ladder slightly when going to get the other can off the shelf... came back and nailed it up. Yes I am a ******!

After fixing that monumental screw up, the end result is 3 evenly spaced can lights in the office ready to be lit up.



Next I measured cable distance needed from server rack to PJ = 25 ft.
--Going to order HDMI, Component, and use my existing CAT6 to wire to PJ. Any objections to this?

Measured cable distance needed from server rack to front wall =
--20' RG6 for Left Sub
--23' Reference for Center (12 AWG speaker wire will be ordered later)
--27' RG6 for Right Sub (Future)
post #142 of 802
Great thread. Just went through the entire thing. I'm right behind you. I'm starting mine in April. Thanks for keeping it updated.
post #143 of 802
Staffy,

I continue to enjoy reading your thread and can identify with you in all of your in theater out of theater antics.

When I was mounting the boxes for my sconces I was also in the zone drilling away to run the romex when I realized that the beautiful 5/8" hole I had just drilled through the 2x4 neatly shredded the two romex runs on the other side of the 2x4 for the other sconces on that circuit. DOH!

Keep up the good work!

Regards,

RTROSE

BTW I am going to steal your silicone idea for the can lights! And when someone asks I'll tell them it was my idea! Hey what are fellow AVSers for anyway! 8-)
post #144 of 802
Thread Starter 
That credit goes to my neighbor Mark... since I was not of the correct height to do that work
post #145 of 802
I see your basement ceiling is the same as mine. Are you planning on drywalling the ceiling and if so how will you deal with the pipe shown in this picture? It looks like the cans will be higher (closer to the joists) than the pipe right? I can't tell you how long I've stared at my ceiling thing wtf am I going to do with that pipe?



post #146 of 802
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2panther View Post

I see your basement ceiling is the same as mine. Are you planning on drywalling the ceiling and if so how will you deal with the pipe shown in this picture? It looks like the cans will be higher (closer to the joists) than the pipe right? I can't tell you how long I've stared at my ceiling thing wtf am I going to do with that pipe?





That is in the office area, so don't much care I was thinking of going with a dropped ceiling since there isn't much area to cover. I will do that next year.
post #147 of 802
You can always move the copper pipe next to the waste pipe, Gas also, where there a will there also a way. I move all my pipes water and heat to have a sheet rock ceiling. It was a pain took forever of course did it twice, but it was worth it now. Just my 2 cents.
post #148 of 802
Thread Starter 
Yes sir, good point. But it is not in the theater area, so I don't care much at this point I was going to try to figure out a way to do double drywall with some sections able to be opened up if there is a shutoff valve.

But seriously it is not a concern to me as it is literally only 1.5 sheets of drywall, it is that small of an area.
post #149 of 802
Quote:
Originally Posted by Staffy View Post

That is in the office area, so don't much care I was thinking of going with a dropped ceiling since there isn't much area to cover. I will do that next year.

what will your ceiling height be after the drop ceiling is in?
post #150 of 802
Thread Starter 
It will be around 6' 9"
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