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The "NOT HERS" HT/Basement Build - The Suffering Begins - Page 6

post #151 of 802
Originally Posted by bone_pa View Post

Look into bundled cables from monoprice, they sell one that has 5 RG 6 and 2 Cat 5e in it. With the 2 Cat5's you can terminate with an HDMI connector, then you have your components and a composit if you want. Then all you have to do is run a single additional Cat 5e for control capability.

Be careful if you go this route. I have had several hellish installs when someone else was dictating the hardware and went with some HDMI over Cat 5 extensions. Most of them did not properly handle EDID data and/or HDMI handshakes. I did find some by Magenta Research that worked great, but if you are running them you want to be sure and use the ScTP cables, not just ordinary Cat5, or you'll get wonderful green sparklies all over your picture.

I would not use any other type of HDMI/DVI over Cat extender other than Magenta's.

post #152 of 802
Thread Starter 
HDMI is only 15$ so I am just going to go that route. I get nervous converting stuff right off the bat.

Thanks for the input Aleturner!
post #153 of 802
No problem... Monoprice makes some awesome 25' long HDMI cables. I like the in-wall certified ones, they come in a nice tight black net wrap. They are a bit stiff, so if you can try not to have sharp turns in your cable run path.
post #154 of 802
Monoprice has done me well in the past, I've only had to order two 6' HDMI cables, but both of them combined were cheaper than any single one from bestbuy/cc. If you haven't bought your speaker wire yet, I'd suggest bluejeanscable. I went with their top of the line cable with their banana plugs and it looks very professional and very easy to install.

Love the thread!
post #155 of 802
+1 for Monoprice have ordered HDMI and in wall speaker wire from them and they are a pleasure to deal with excellent communications and fair prices.

Sorry if I sound like a Monoprice fanboy there....just very pleased with their efforts.


post #156 of 802
Thread Starter 

Summary of research and advice by Ted White.

After reading millions of differeing posts, weighing cost, my hatred of my low ceiling height, and one incident of getting yelled at by my sleeping wife about my speaker tests at midnight... I decided to change my initial plan and go with the following plan for the ceiling.

Summary of Action Plan

I have 12 x 22 (roughly) ceiling dimansions. I plan on on using 25 gauge Hat Channel 24" on center all across leaving 6"-8" from the edge/sidewalls. Hat channel will be running lengthways and will use @ 1" wood screws to attach.

Next I lay 1 layer of 5/8" drywall perpendicular to the hat channel, leaving a small gap from touching sidewall studs so I can seal with caulk/silicone. I use type S screws since it will be screwing into the hat channel (.5" into hat chan) and attach roughly every 16 - 24 inches since it is the first layer.

Next I use green glue (2 cases worth) on the second layer of 5/8 drywall that will be running perpendicular to the first layer, lift into place and use type S drywall screws. Push up, and do not use screws to suck it up to ceiling. Final spacing will be 8 - 12" between screws.

My initial concern was around the joints not lining up with the hat channel, but I have been advised that I can use 1.25" grabber type drywall screws every 6" along the seam to attach second layer to first layer of drywall (only at seams).

Layout of the hat channel (Red) and the first layer of drywall:

Layout of the final layer of drywall: (Dotted Black)
post #157 of 802
For this, is all you did is silicone all loose parts on the light cans, rails mostly, so they wont rattle? That is just brilliant. I might just have to do that myself...

post #158 of 802
Thread Starter 
[quote=smakovits;14515602]For this, is all you did is silicone all loose parts on the light cans, rails mostly, so they wont rattle? That is just brilliant. I might just have to do that myself...

Yes sir, get it all set where you want it, cut the silicone tube tip so it is a thin fine stream, then basically inject it into the holes, tracks, along the back of the cover plate where you connect electrical, and any place else you think would make noise. After about 30 minutes of drying time, tap on it and it should be without rattle.
post #159 of 802
You can also wrap the the supports with electrical tape to hold the free end tight against the other. Looking at the pic it is down in the lower right corner. Where the two legs overlap at the end of the one leg. Pull the tape tight.
post #160 of 802
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

You can also wrap the the supports with electrical tape to hold the free end tight against the other. Looking at the pic it is down in the lower right corner. Where the two legs overlap at the end of the one leg. Pull the tape tight.

*Cough* hack*Cough*

j/k, good tip, we just found alot of various places that vibrated and put silicone on all 10 that way to prevent any issues. Plus I was a dummy and had to move a few, so that surely loosened them more than usual!
post #161 of 802
Thread Starter 
Just played with PhotoSynth...

I need to get a bigger SD card

Edit - Deleted because I suck and want to get better than 20% Synth!
post #162 of 802
About one month behind you in build (Version 4). Love the thread, I just finished the basement and now working on the theater (Version 4). I love your DVD wall cabinets bc that is one thing I havent figured out yet until now, but I can't view your link on youtube. Can you re-post it? Still thinking about post schematics? Please.
post #163 of 802
Thread Starter 

I finally found a local place with 25 gauge hat channel. It is about 15 minutes from my house, but they only charge a $30 delivery fee, so I am thinking I will order all of my drywall from them.

Iverson's Drywall Supply
1570 N Milford Rd
Milford, MI 48381

7/8 12' 25 gauge for less than $4, I was quite pleased and loaded up!

I also have been giving some thought about my duct system, I cannot afford Linacoustic and I really want to try and figure out a way to decouple the ducts from room to room...

Today I also filled in a bunch of holes in my DVD storage that I drilled while experimenting with LEDs.. what a pain, but the experiments needed to be done!.
post #164 of 802
Thread Starter 

I had an idea today after finding some people talk about a rubber boot to isolate duct runs. My current ducts are the standard 6" round that leave no room for insulation above of below the ducts. I also did a few tests and can hear music through the ducts all the way up on the second floor...

So I went back to my good old friends at Triple J Ductwork in Waterford and ordered 50' of oval ductwork and some conversions from 6" Round to Oval.

While I was there I spotted some material that I thought would be longlasting and something I could get them to make for me to test out my theory.

Oh and on a bright note, the wife is out of town for a week!! Sweet sweet calm has taken over the household. No nagging, no honey-do list, no need for coasters, and best of all, no need for pants! YEEEHAAAA!!!!!
post #165 of 802
Thread Starter 

So after a long day at work, I headed over to Triple J Ductwork, I though they were open until 6, but when I called at 5 they said they were closed...

They were so cool, the guy said he would stick around for 30 mins so I could pickup my supplies for the weekend. I hauled ass over there and couldn't be more pleased with the outcome!

Here is a picture of all the duct parts:

My neighbor Mark came over and we only had an hour or 2 to fart around, so we removed the old junk and put up the new.

The final results I think are great. I can pound the ductwork and no vibrations occur on the other side of "Jay's Duct Decoupler" (Patent Pending )

Side view:

Length view:

Tomorrow I am solo because Mark pussed out and is spending the day with his wife... I told her to have him back by 4 PM, but I doubt she will listen.. I will try to replace as much as I can by myself and hopefully we can install the rest of the room this weekend so I can get started on insulation!
post #166 of 802
Wow what a great job! So these are working for you? Nice way to stop the conduction.

I'm curious if it is 2 1/2" wide. There's a LOT in Michigan that is 2 3/4" and will not work at all (in clips). It will not seat in the clip slots.
post #167 of 802
Thread Starter 
Mine are like 3.4" wide for the part that will face the joists. Not sure if I am measuring the correct spot... but the "bottom of the hat".

Because of my stupid low ceiling, I am not doing clips and only doing hat channel. (You talked me into doing that ).

I can take a picture of the hat channel later if you wish, but since I was not doing clips, I did not think anything else really mattered. If I am gonna mess something up, let me know!
post #168 of 802
In your case you're just dandy
post #169 of 802
Thread Starter 

Today I worked a few more ducts with decouplers installed and converted to oval. Here is a picture of the PILE of 6" round I ripped out.

Then I realized I am missing 3 peices to convert from 6" to oval... GRRR I knew I would eff this up the first try! I am going to try to make my own converters, if not, I will just buy 3 more and call it good.
post #170 of 802
Thread Starter 

D DAY.... the wife returns and the scrutiny over the house cleanliness drives me insane, so I decide to work on my closet as she stacked all of her crap on the shelf and broke it... so I got a shelf unit from my neighbor Mark and cut new bars. It should not have taken me 8 hours to do this, but me being anal/ OCD, I just HAD to patch the old nail holes, sand it all down, then paint it. I only had 1 quart of ultra-white left in my paint stash.

Midnight came, and I almost ran out of paint, so I was litterally scraping paint out of the can with my finger and putting it in the paint tray

Then 1.5 hours to assemble everything and the final result is below... total cost was 28$
post #171 of 802
Thread Starter 

Final conversion of all the ducts except 2 registers I am getting made by my friends at Triple J Ductwork.

post #172 of 802
Thread Starter 

Today I was dragging butt, but thankfully my neighbor Mark came over and "motivated" me.

We got the entire ceiling insulated, even though I was half dying due to allergies, we did it! Once we got a system down, it really flew. I only fell off the ladder twice! Too-tall thought that was hillarious, but such is life

Here is a picture of all of the R19 installed:

So after working for hours, we came up for air.. sure enough, the devil-wife was sitting on her can, surfing the web. Such a welcome site! *sigh*
post #173 of 802
Thread Starter 

Tonight was experimenting with hat channel installation. Since I have never done it before, I got a majority of my information from Ted White, my adopted HT guru.

First, Mark and I dbl checked all of the chalk lines we snapped just before installing insulation.

Next we got started on the first peice of hat channel and got half way done with standard deck screws and were upset with the head stripping that occurred. We made a run to Lowes before closing time and purchased these fine 2.5" screws that do not strip out and make it 10x easier on your shoulder:

Then when we got back, Mark's kid stopped by to visit him, so he pussed out and went home.

Left all alone, I completed the hat channel we started to hang and replaced all of the screws. I figured if Mark was talking to his kid, I figured I would give my own 17 year old son a shot at "helping" dad...

So, after watching my brilliant son DROOL on himself 3 times and me have to snap my fingers every stinking time I needed him to hand me the drill, screw, or screwgun... I had enough and sent him away to preserve my sanity.

Then I had to figure out how to do it myself, so I came up with the following..

First, I realized a 2x4 was the same width as the hat channel so I marked one up down the center.

Next I used the marked 2x4 to mark where the hat channel should line up.

Then I used 2 clamps and a metal strap to hold the hat channel up in the middle. This allowed me to attach 1 screw on the end, then align everything up again.

Next I drilled all the way down and started all the screws with a screwdriver. This allowed me to go all of the way down, then come back with my screwgun and an extension and screw everything down without the need of a ladder.

Mark showed back up while I was working on my 3rd one, and by then I was dead. So we did some more measuements and are going to alter the layout just a little bit tomorrow... for now I am going to pass out
post #174 of 802
I built my deck using the square drive screws. They are awsome, rarely "cam out" and the ones I used fit snugly enough on the bit to stay secure in most any position I needed so I did not need to be an octopus just to drill screws into my decking. I have used these "decking screws" on other projects around the house due to their "user friendliness". Keep up the good work and smart move with the 2x4 and clamps. It is amazing what we DIY'ers can come up with in a pinch when we need to get something done and there is no one around to help. I have come up with some creative contraptions myself but did not take any pictures for prosperity sake though.

Have a cold one on me....you deserve it!


post #175 of 802
Thread Starter 

Today my neighbor Mark forced me to go pickup a lawn aerator and a gas powered edger, so there went most of the day not only doing ours, but it seemed everytime we turned around, Mark found someone else who could use help.

So my kid was in trouble from my wife, so I didn't have to cleanup jack! We made him put up all the edger leavings while we dropped everything off and grabbed a late breakfast

Tonight we got another 5 more sticks of hat channel installed and learned a few more tricks.

**Yes I know it is messy as hell.

So one tip for ease that Mark came up with that helps if hanging hat channel solo..
On the first few sticks, when adding the second length, we pushed up and had to hold it on each end: (Stick 1 is on right, stick 2 is on left)

On the final row of the evening he figured out a smarter way would be to use the existing hat channel to hold one end up while I attach the other end. This would make it even easier for a single person to put up hat channel.

**Note that when overlapping the hat channel, you use at least 2 self tapping sheet metal screws, the kind you use on ductwork.

The final picture below shows the end of day progress, along with some modifications that had to be made to accomodate the light cans. Because of the layout of the basement and how jacked up the concrete walls were, there is 1" of difference in 22 feet. I figured if I spaced it off the slightly off-square wall, it would trick the eyes and be less noticeable than having the cans not parallel with a wall that was close. It could still be changed if anyone disagrees with this thinking, but I am confident I made the right decision.

**Note: the gaps in insulation in the ceiling are locations I am having custom made registers made with an additional 2" of lip length so they will drop down below the hat channel and drywall (planning ahead).
post #176 of 802
Thread Starter 

Flying solo today..

Spent a good chunk of the morning cleaning up and organizing the room in order to make room for the last 6 sticks of hat channel installation as well as triple checking measurements and making additional to do lists.

This afternoon, my son actually spent 15 minutes down in the basement "helping.."

When he "helped" he was vacuuming out my media storage shelves that I was sanding on while I was working on insulating walls..

All of a sudden I heard a loud noise, looked over in time to see a puff of smoke come out of the top of the shop-vac and the breaker tripped. I took the smoking pile of plastic outside so it didn't potentially catch the room on fire and had to make a call...


"Hello, this is Mark"

I say "Mark, this is Jay... I got some good news and some bad news.."

"Ummm... Gimme the bad news..."

I say "My kid was using the shop-vac and it burned up!"

"Wow, everything okay?"

I say "Yep.."

"Well what is the good news?" he asked..

"Not my shop-vac, it was YOURS!.. hahaha"

He laughed and said it was no big deal, but I told him I was going to buy him a new one, it is a man-rule. SOB is still fighting me on this... but I will win out. He made a joke later saying it didn't bother him because it was his wife's.

He swore it was a 5.5 HP shop-vac when we were at Lowes on a supply run for his closet rebuild project.. I was looking at some 4 amp models and he was poo-pooing them.

I submit a picture for all to see that clearly shows it is not a 5.5 HP vacuum

So I finished off the evening by getting as much insulated in the theater room as possible including some of the office area.

Thinking ahead: I was sitting at my 13' primary seating position and wondered if I should run wires for bass shakers in the future. Not wanting to spend the money now and I REALLY do not want to cut concrete and patch like I have seen so many others do before, I am wondering if what I am thinking makes sense..

The above picture is directly to the side of the primary seating position, I am wondering why I could not run Carlon 3/4" conduit and mount it on the floor right by the pole (Couplers would be pre-fitted before mounting). This would be covered by trim until later use. The other end would end in the bottom of the server rack.

I would use 1 pipe for power in a power-bridge fashion, just like many are using for their PJs. I would use the other pipe for audio wires.

I would then build a SHORT riser, maybe like 2x4s laid flat. The riser would go all of the way over to the wall, so the pipes would be hidden. The other end of the riser would stop right under my chair which is the prime listening position. This would allow me to get all the wire I need over to the bass-shakers.
(All I would need to do is cut away a small chunk of trim, push new pipe into the waiting couplers and push the wire.)

post #177 of 802
Thread Starter 
Does this stuff appear to be the correct insulation for room panels for treatment? Decent price?

post #178 of 802
How thick is it? Hard to tell from the pic.
post #179 of 802
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by mn_hokie View Post

How thick is it? Hard to tell from the pic.

post #180 of 802
I don't see why it wouldn't work, althought it's probably a little thicker than normal.
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