New Design..New Thread...BigJoeMoose's Theatre

After my previous thread I learned so much I decided to change around the room a ton and start a new thread without all the junk in it. I have about a 1200 Sqfoot basement and will be finishing all of it at the same time.

Room Size: 18*15*7'8"


I am going all out on sound isolation:

(thanks to Bpape for a great price)
Risc Dc04 for tops of size wall plates, RSIC-1 + hat Channel for entire ceiling, two layers of 5/8 Drywall seperated by 7-% coverage Green Glue

Walls not by concrete are staggered stud (3 of the 4) Wall by the concrete is 2x4 standard 2" of side plate

Projector is purchased, couldnt pass up the 1400 AR MIT HC4900

Still debating on the screen type, either 110 diag SMX AT or 110 Carada

Speakers will be either aperion or axiom top of the line models 7.1 config

Lighting controller (purchased off ebay) if a Graphik Eye 2404 $200 shipped

Speakers will be ran off a Onkyo 805 receiver (purchased)

Now for some pics to start off the new thread:

Empty basement:



Clips





All the Studs and insulation



Framing Half Done





Clips Installed







And here is a very rough dimensional layout of the room, still have a ton of stuff to do on this guy.

I look forward to updating weekly and gladly accept any ideas for concepts from anyone, it is still a very much blank slate after the walls are up.

Thanks,

Joe

That is actually one of the problems I have, because of that stupid dual HVAC soffit on the left of the theatre. My ceiling is 7' 8" and the HVAC drop is 10" off that, add drywall and framing even with plywood it is getting pretty close to head scrape (I am 6 2)

I had it priced by several contractors and they all want like 2k to move the ducts out of there, too much for my budget.

I also kind of figure that if you are sitting on the right or left seat in a centered room, then you are not in the middle of the sound anyway. So if one speaker is a little further away, then that is ok too.

I am not sure what else to do, ideas gladly accepted.

Well, my back hurts, but my theater is starting to take shape. I cannot believe how much work those staggered stud walls are, it is like building two walls at once, literally.

Here are some pics:

Looking at the screen wall. All staggered stud walls with isolation




Stupid pain in the A$$ ductwork



Closeup of staggered stud walls with RISC DC04 isolation

What does everyone think of this sconce

How do I wire the theater for circuits?

Ex. Projector + equipment on 1 circuit 15A
Lights on 2nd circuit,
outlets for main room on 3rd

Any good links or rules of thumb for best wiring on a HT?

Well, I finished the exterior staggered studd framing of the home theatre, got the door framed and ordered, and will have the rest of the top plates done within a few days.

Here are some pics:

Outside corner



Looking at door entrance, decided to go in the side so I could push up the seats back to the wall, buys me a more savy user experience.

I ordered a french paneled solid core safe-n-sound door from lowes custom cut to a 76 door with 78" opening



This is how I am isolating the staggered stud under the i-beam ran wood flush to the surface and mounted my DC04 clups to them



Close-up view of my rig, I will still use another bolt, just wanted to see what it looked like and if it worked.




My next step is to start the soffits/Riser/Hvac I bought about 100 feet of insulated 6" duct to replace the sheet metal. I also signed up to be a green glue commercial application tester, so about 1000 sq feet of green glue will be en-route soon.

First off, I want to truly thank the guys from The Soundproofing Company, John Hile and Ted White, it is very rare to randomly call a company and get two knowledgeable guys, willing to spend 1/2 hour on the phone discussing all types of various sound proofing stuff.

Ted went over many of the concepts of my build and offered me some great guidance on the doors, soffits, and overall sound isolation I am looking for. With all my HVAC and I_beam issues, it was nice to get some professional help.

Good News Today.....

HVAC guy provided me with a quote of 450 to split my ducts to each side and allow me to have a symmetrical room....sound the trumpets....thank god

Also came in and gave me a great quote on cracking my basement and running pipes for a new bathroom - 850 including finishing for use.

I got the guy off a local job site.

Other.... ordered all my cable from monoprice as well, great prices

Now that I have all my stuff where I want it, here is my layout. I will go over all the soundproofig and wall treatment stuff again as well.

Tom,

The block was just for spacing, I left it there by accident. I am actually am using RSIC-DC04 sound Isolation clips every 36 inches under the I-beam. The clips prevent the mechanical sound transfer in addition to the staggered stud wall to the surrounding rooms and to the above spaces.

John,

I used the amazingly free google sketchup.
The ductwork and rough plumbing for my bar/ bathroom is being done today/tomorrow. I decided to stick with the metal duct, using the flex-duct for all the supply tuns runs that move thorught the room because of availablity and cost.

DC thanks for the info, I am only moving the ducts to the side that were already on one side, all the transisitons will be switched to flex above the theatre, thanks for the info.

jmpktopgun,

I also wanted to mention that my door was 78" framed because I had to fit under the IBeam-giving me a 76" door. That beam made me have to get a custom fit door.

The soffits are split, guys did a great job, anybody in South East Michigan needs some ductwork, these are the guys, good work, fast and cheap.

Here is the first part, notice all of the inside drops and rolls are also gone, now each soffit will be 30 inches, instead of the 60 inch beast from before, room looks much better. This is a purchase I am glad I made, I would have always wished I would have moved those stupid ducts.

if you look at the old pics you will see what moved, in addition it adds a ton of extra screen space for me.




Another pic of a single soffit, you can see where they capped and ran it to the other side.



I still have to go and run the flexduct in place of the current runs for the rest of the house in the ceiling, but that is a quick job now that the soffits are split.

Feel free to do a silent cheer for me and my victory over my soffits. On another note, I got my Check from the Gov today, spent it faster then it came in.

Audixium,

I think a ton of people with newer homes all have this issue. If the builder didnt make the ceilings 9 foot, then you will have to deal with the duct work,

The price was 450, basically all labor, because the thermopan and a 4 foot duct extension was the only extra parts that were needed.

I also had them do a few other things, they put in a water powered back-up sump pump and cracked my basment for a new bathroom.

About 1400 for the sump and basment rough in.