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Panasonic PZ80/PZ85 Calibration Thread (Updated first post) - Page 80

post #2371 of 2470
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonic_blue View Post

Have you tried measuring 5% steps? You might find some funny business going on in between steps. For instance my 10 step IRE graph further up the page looks quite good but doesn't reveal all the weird spikes in between that the 5% graph shows.

I have and for the most part it's simply unnecessary. It does reveal a better picture of the gamma response but the average gamma is not altered in any way. On the other hand, enabling the "average many reads on dark measurements" option under sensor configuration is quite handy.
post #2372 of 2470
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

I have and for the most part it's simply unnecessary. It does reveal a better picture of the gamma response but the average gamma is not altered in any way.

So you don't get any crazy zig-zagging showing up on your 5% graph? On mine it's quite rampant and there is no way I can flatten it out. I notice if I turn colour to 0 and just watch normal TV content, on certain scenes I can see shades of pink and green (kind of like purple snake syndrome).
post #2373 of 2470
This is from when I did the 20-pt grayscale check. Peak white is only 30 fL though. There is a big spike at 85%.
LL
post #2374 of 2470
rgb
LL
post #2375 of 2470
Still a lot better than mine. I think I'm going to have to increase luminance if I want a smoother graph, either by upping picture level (currently at 18.7ftl peak white) or using cinema mode. Honestly though, I don't like either one of those options.
post #2376 of 2470
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonic_blue View Post

Still a lot better than mine. I think I'm going to have to increase luminance if I want a smoother graph, either by upping picture level (currently at 18.7ftl peak white) or using cinema mode. Honestly though, I don't like either one of those options.

Just out of curiosity, what are your viewing conditions? IMO, even 30 fL peak white is low for anything other than dark-room viewing, with 35 fL being suitable for evening and night viewing. 40 fL is all-around good.
post #2377 of 2470
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

Just out of curiosity, what are your viewing conditions? IMO, even 30 fL peak white is low for anything other than dark-room viewing, with 35 fL being suitable for evening and night viewing. 40 fL is all-around good.

Well I do watch mostly at night with very dim lighting in the room, but I find the picture acceptable for daytime viewing too (but there isn't a lot of sunlight in the room anyway). I was suprised at 18ftl myself as it is much lower than what most people have. I've tried higher levels but it just seems uncomfortable to me.
post #2378 of 2470
Now that I have a somewhat decent meter, I have resumed fiddling around with my tv settings. My grayscale has a few peaks, especially with the blue. The peaks are less frequent and are further apart than sonic_blue, but their amplitude is about the same.

I measured grayscale for various contrast values from 45 to 90. Considering grayscale neutrality only, the sweet spot on my set seems to be with a contrast of 85. Too bad I can't stand the "Normal" color temperature, as it is very flat even with lower contrast values.

30 ft/L is at contrast = 46; light output raises quickly (33.6 ft/L at 50, 36.5 at 55), but above 65 (40.6 ft/L) light output does not change much and the gamma starts to decrease. Gamma changes are of about -0.1 for grayscale 60 to 80, with a pronounced dip at 90.

Not exactly sure what I'll try next. I could not yet visually see the gamma dip at 85, but I find it a bit too bright.
post #2379 of 2470
Quote:
Originally Posted by boum View Post

Now that I have a somewhat decent meter, I have resumed fiddling around with my tv settings. My grayscale has a few peaks, especially with the blue. The peaks are less frequent and are further apart than sonic_blue, but their amplitude is about the same.

I measured grayscale for various contrast values from 45 to 90. Considering grayscale neutrality only, the sweet spot on my set seems to be with a contrast of 85. Too bad I can't stand the "Normal" color temperature, as it is very flat even with lower contrast values.

30 ft/L is at contrast = 46; light output raises quickly (33.6 ft/L at 50, 36.5 at 55), but above 65 (40.6 ft/L) light output does not change much and the gamma starts to decrease. Gamma changes are of about -0.1 for grayscale 60 to 80, with a pronounced dip at 90.

Not exactly sure what I'll try next. I could not yet visually see the gamma dip at 85, but I find it a bit too bright.

I measured 41.3 fL at 100 contrast and found that brightness could be lowered from 55 to 53 without clipping blacks. The drop in gamma was canceled out by the brightness setting. My previous settings had contrast at 46 (and brightness at 55). Average gamma was 2.14 in both cases. I'm not sure if a contrast setting of 65 could be used with a brightness setting of 53 (without clipping blacks), but if it could that could give a slightly higher average gamma.
post #2380 of 2470
I decided to try another route after having a quick look at the settings recommended by D-nice for the X1 series (here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post16014003).

Basically, I lowered a lot the values in the service menu - the green drive and cut went down from their factory FC and 80 values by something like 30-35 and then I adjusted red and bue accordingly. Not many blue spikes and overall pleasing results, and it does not hurt my eyes at night anymore. I would need to double check the gamma, as sometimes I get caught in tweaking the grayscale and forget about re-adusting the brightness, which sometimes can make me think the gamma improved, but most of the time it's mainly because the brightness is now too low and am crushing blacks.

This is looking quite good right now. I wonder if this time I'll think the same in a few days
post #2381 of 2470
from time to time I switch from Cinema to Custom settings..as I think my Time Warner feed isn't as good on some of the HD channels as it is on others..

I seem to get a bigger pop on the picture when I switch from Cinema

Just curious if anyone else does this and what settings you might be doing.

I seem to do it more on Night time baseball and Football games..where cinema seems too dark for me..
post #2382 of 2470
Quote:
Originally Posted by boum View Post

I decided to try another route after having a quick look at the settings recommended by D-nice for the X1 series (here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post16014003).

Basically, I lowered a lot the values in the service menu - the green drive and cut went down from their factory FC and 80 values by something like 30-35 and then I adjusted red and bue accordingly. Not many blue spikes and overall pleasing results, and it does not hurt my eyes at night anymore. I would need to double check the gamma, as sometimes I get caught in tweaking the grayscale and forget about re-adusting the brightness, which sometimes can make me think the gamma improved, but most of the time it's mainly because the brightness is now too low and am crushing blacks.

This is looking quite good right now. I wonder if this time I'll think the same in a few days

Just to let you know, the only reason the green drives and cuts were lowered was due to a plus green color temperature found on the X1 and S1 models. It's not in any way necessary for the '08 models. Simply lowering contrast would do the same for the blue spikes you were noticing.
post #2383 of 2470
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

Just to let you know, the only reason the green drives and cuts were lowered was due to a plus green color temperature found on the X1 and S1 models. It's not in any way necessary for the '08 models. Simply lowering contrast would do the same for the blue spikes you were noticing.

Ah, this makes more sense. Thanks for the info.

Regarding the blue spikes, they are reacting a bit unpredictably when modifying contrast. With a given set of service menu values, moving the contrast up or down moves the spikes around and alter the spike's heights, but lower contrast does not always mean lower spikes; most of the time they are simply changed but not improved. I came across a sweet spot but I had to have the 100% white at around 43 ft/L, which is way too much for me.
post #2384 of 2470
Does anyone find that setting Colour using 75% windows looks too colourful for HD? I have found this is the case when calibrating a 50PX80A and 42PZ800A using AVSHD. I am always noticing the picture has too much colour on HD, and have witnessed this on all of my devices (xbox 360, tivo hd, upscaling dvd player). I thought this is odd because SD colour looks good using 75% windows.

This makes me wonder, is it correct to use 75% windows for HD or is HD somehow different in this regard? btw I've tried the 100% method but then the colour is definitely too dull.

Any thoughts?
post #2385 of 2470
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonic_blue View Post

Does anyone find that setting Colour using 75% windows looks too colourful for HD? I have found this is the case when calibrating a 50PX80A and 42PZ800A using AVSHD. I am always noticing the picture has too much colour on HD, and have witnessed this on all of my devices (xbox 360, tivo hd, upscaling dvd player). I thought this is odd because SD colour looks good using 75% windows.

This makes me wonder, is it correct to use 75% windows for HD or is HD somehow different in this regard? btw I've tried the 100% method but then the colour is definitely too dull.

Any thoughts?

I think what really matters is how you set color. Do you try to get one primary as accurate as possible or do you aim to get all three as low as possible (minimizing the highest error among the three at any given time)? For example, I use 75% color windows and aim to lower blue dE to the lowest value possible.

On a side note you can adjust a given primary or secondary in real-time with updating xyY values plus dE. Simply check "Detect primary colors during user measures" under general preferences and then click continuous measures while displaying a primary or secondary. Make sure your reference color space is Rec 709 before starting though.
post #2386 of 2470
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

I think what really matters is how you set color. Do you try to get one primary as accurate as possible or do you aim to get all three as low as possible (minimizing the highest error among the three at any given time)? For example, I use 75% color windows and aim to lower blue dE to the lowest value possible.

Well, I was using red primary to set colour as it's the most accurate colour on my tv (DE = 2). What's really strange is that red is the most noticeable difference between HD and SD: HD has more reddish skin tones and computer rendered graphics such as logos and lettering on TV commercials look more intense red when flicking between HD/SD. Does this sound like red push to you?

Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

On a side note you can adjust a given primary or secondary in real-time with updating xyY values plus dE. Simply check "Detect primary colors during user measures" under general preferences and then click continuous measures while displaying a primary or secondary. Make sure your reference color space is Rec 709 before starting though.

Thanks for the tip

On another note I upped my picture level to 30ftL and I have to say it looks much better. Took me a couple of days to get used to though.
post #2387 of 2470
I was thinking, since the colour of red is different for SD and HD, perhaps this is affecting things? To make things fair, wouldn't it be better to set Colour for HD using an SD red (0.630, 0.340) inserted into the HD colour space?
post #2388 of 2470
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonic_blue View Post

Well, I was using red primary to set colour as it's the most accurate colour on my tv (DE = 2). What's really strange is that red is the most noticeable difference between HD and SD: HD has more reddish skin tones and computer rendered graphics such as logos and lettering on TV commercials look more intense red when flicking between HD/SD. Does this sound like red push to you?

There is a good way to check for color decoding errors. Simply paste your primaries and secondaries plus white (preferably 75% for all) into the blue area of the color corrector tab.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post15607437
post #2389 of 2470
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonic_blue View Post

I was thinking, since the colour of red is different for SD and HD, perhaps this is affecting things? To make things fair, wouldn't it be better to set Colour for HD using an SD red (0.630, 0.340) inserted into the HD colour space?

When you put up a red test pattern (75% red window, for example), it simply tells the display to display 75% red, not SD red or HD red. It's the display's native color gamut (and color matrix setting) that determine which definition of red appears on-screen.
post #2390 of 2470
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

There is a good way to check for color decoding errors. Simply paste your primaries and secondaries plus white (preferably 75% for all) into the blue area of the color corrector tab.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post15607437

Thank you, I will try that.
post #2391 of 2470
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

When you put up a red test pattern (75% red window, for example), it simply tells the display to display 75% red, not SD red or HD red. It's the display's native color gamut (and color matrix setting) that determine which definition of red appears on-screen.

I am curious to know, when SD red is upscaled to HD red (eg. upscaling DVD players) does the player actually change the digital value of red to reflect the difference between the SD and HD colour matrix?
post #2392 of 2470
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonic_blue View Post

I am curious to know, when SD red is upscaled to HD red (eg. upscaling DVD players) does the player actually change the digital value of red to reflect the difference between the SD and HD colour matrix?

There was a good deal of information about this topic in the Color Calibration with a CMS thread a while back, FYI.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=1355
post #2393 of 2470
So it seems that when SD red is converted to HD red, the YCrCb values are changed using a formula so that the red will appear as SD red when it is finally displayed in the HD gamut. Is there anyone out there who can confirm this?

Thanks.
post #2394 of 2470
i was thinking about doing kal's calibration guide for calibration, the curtpalme.com one....it says i need access to rgb highend and lowend...where would i find these settings on the 85u
post #2395 of 2470
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeyraw View Post

i was thinking about doing kal's calibration guide for calibration, the curtpalme.com one....it says i need access to rgb highend and lowend...where would i find these settings on the 85u

Service Menu

WB-Adjust Sub-Menu

RGB CUTs (low end)

RGB DRVs (high end)
post #2396 of 2470
post #2397 of 2470
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

My latest calibration...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post17356763

Very nice

I was able to get mine almost as good as yours:


To fix the high end I had to reduce ALL-DRV to 55 and increase Contrast (in the user menu) to 80. This made blue and red track evenly in the high end.

Lowering the ALL-DRV also improved the gamma somewhat:
post #2398 of 2470
(deleted)
post #2399 of 2470
I noticed that turning up picture to +100 (from +46) in Cinema lowered high end gamma but also allowed a lower brightness setting by two clicks (+55 to +53), which raised low end gamma and neutralized the impact on avg gamma (2.14 in both cases) Blacks were not clipped either.

My question is why would this happen and could I get better avg gamma by using a setting that barely outputs 40 fL? I don't really want to mess with it though (RGB levels are essentially perfect) and therefore if someone else could share their experiences with gamma it would be greatly appreciated.
LL

 

Color_PZ80U_10-13-09.zip 1.0595703125k . file
LL
post #2400 of 2470
Hello Everyone,
I purchased my 50PZ85 last year and may shortly have to return to europe. My question is, aside from the voltage... which i can take care of with a step down transformer, is ther any way I can activate(by firmware reflash/upgrade or in engineer menu) the PAL decoding that i know this panel is capable of.

Any guidance would be hugely appreciated.

Thanks\\
Mark
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