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Official LNXXA550 Calibration/Settings Thread - Page 97

post #2881 of 3237
Quote:
Originally Posted by mzupeman View Post

I used a real HD calibration disc and it seems the settings were spot on as they were. I knew THX was pretty useless. Thanks for the help though

Well I wouldn't say that THX is useless, nor would that calibration disc help with setting contrast and backlight. Both would accomplish pretty much the same-- setting brightness, sharpness and I guess ballpark color.
post #2882 of 3237
I too am looking for any updated firmware - 1006 is still on the Samsung website. Perhaps no one has noticed a difference/upgrade to the update, but is it possible to obtain it? Samsung has not responded to a query...
post #2883 of 3237
Quote:
Originally Posted by almach5 View Post

I too am looking for any updated firmware - 1006 is still on the Samsung website. Perhaps no one has noticed a difference/upgrade to the update, but is it possible to obtain it? Samsung has not responded to a query...

What firmware do you have? and what problem do you have that you think newer firmware would help?

Other than color calibration differences (and not necessarily improvements), nobody has discerned any tangible differences in 1007 or 1008 over 1006.
post #2884 of 3237
Good lord, a notorious hater of HDTV of any and every stripe has fallen off the wagon and purchased not only an LCD (gasp!) but waited until this late date to get into a year-old 2008 model. I had reasons for doing so, but in the end the close-out price (and the fact that new LCD's are eliminating s-video) was an offer I couldn't refuse. It's verboten to post prices here, but suffice it to say the price was barely knee-high to the original MSRP. This set replaced a Panasonic TC-26LX85 whose gruesome skin tones became intolerable, as was its lack of effective image adjustments.

Herewith is the HCFR RGB curve. RGB, color space, gamma, DNR, etc., were either at default or disabled. contrast and brightness were set to L=50 with an IRE-10 patch = .0065 of IRE-100 white.
Player: Toshiba RD-XS34 (component) or Denon DVD-1940 (HDMI)
Disc: GetGray DVD
Cables: AR Performance Series (component) & BJC/Belden Series-2 HDMI (bluejeanscable)

Looking at the overall curve, I thought at first I'd done something wrong. But no. After checking everything and taking 3 more readings, every result for both composite and HDMI were almost exactly the same. It really made me wonder about what other buyers meant when they claim that the LN32A550's color was "oustanding" and "almost spot-on" right out of the box. They are either visually impaired or, just as likely, my sample of this product has serious problems. At least the overall effect wasn't as bad as Panny's purply greens or Sony's neon effect. But pale flesh tones were the color of Tang, and night scenes were the color of Tang darkened with coffee.

RGB

The bottom half of the chart doesn't show a pink Delta-E error curve, because the scale here only goes from a Delte-E of 9 to a value of 1 at the bottom of the chart. There really was a Delta-E curve, though -- it was far above the scaling area at an average value of "16", which is pathetic by any standard.

Gamma (upper) and Color Temp (lower)


CIE (Rec.601)


In HCFR the color temp is pretty spastic and too warm everywhere, and gamma is rather skewed but in the 2.2 neighborhood.
LL
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post #2885 of 3237
Player: Denon DVD-1940 (HDMI Out, Progressive=on, scaling=420i - I let Sammy do the upscaling, which looked a lot cleaner than Denon's effort).
Disc: GetGray DVD
Cables: BJC/Belden Series-2 HDMI (bluejeanscable)

Mode: Movie (Warm 2)
Backlight 7, Contrast 85, Bright 50, Tint G50/R50, Sharp 25, Color 40 (34 in actual use)
Digital NR Off, Film Mode Auto, Black Adjust Off, Dynamic Cont Off
Gamma +1, Color Space Auto
R-Offset 26
G-Offset 26
B-Offset 30
R-Gain 31
G-Gain 17
B-Gain 29



Color Temp


These results were from the Denon, but I used the same settings with composite and even s-video out of my older Toshiba SD-4800 player; DVD playback looked equally accurate and movie-like. The overall image accuracy is competitive with my deceased and beloved CRT. LCD technology still has an uphill fight to rival a first-class CRT, but this is one of the best results I've seen in almost two years of shopping.
LL
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post #2886 of 3237
Very nice Sanlyn! I agree with you: CRT outclasses LCD but the color accuracy of these Sammy's (post-calibration) are pretty darned good. If it had better black levels I would be completely content.
post #2887 of 3237
The Digital revolution has me completely bonkers (even worse than before). Why did I title this "composite" when I relly meant "SD Component" ). Permit me to add: when I tried these same settings with Belden 1695A composite cable, the color was pretty much the same -- but soft details and, naturally, lots of upscaling and deinterlacing noise.

So please pardoner moi -- these settings are for SD component sources, not composite.

Player: Toshiba RD-XS34 (Component Out, Progressive=On, no internal upscaling)
Disc: GetGray DVD
Cables: AR Performance Series component or Belden 7787A component (bluejeans cable)

After much fiddling with RGB, I kept getting almost identical results with both cable brands, the main difference being that Belden had slightly less Red across the range. Most SD cable channels look grim, but thankfully Turner Classic Movies is nearly as clean as DTV, but not quite as sharp. A crisp, snappy image from TCM and extremely satisfying SD-DVD playback. The color balance in the "Meet Me In St. Louis" and "White Christmas" DVD's are difficult to render without serious problems; but both look just dandy here, slightly better than with Denon/HDMI.

Overall settings are the same as for HDMI, above, except for these:
Brightness 38
Color 37
R-Offset 25
G-Offset 26
B-Offset 30
R-Gain 29
G-Gain 17
B-Gain 29

Color Space: SD Component and HDMI (SD source) nearly identical
Red R41 B0 G0
Green G56 R35 B0
Blue B59 R15 G11
Cyan R30 G52 B57
Magenta R43 G10 B56
Yellow R50 G50 B0

(NOTE: I have CIE charts not posted here. They don't look very changed from the default CIE posted above, as Sammy gave little leeway for moving colors around in either SD or HD. The adjustments that counted most were saturation in the primaries. These alone made visible improvements in skin tones and shadows. Tweaking the secondaries didn't seem to affect much). B&W movies are b&w for a change, not tinted green, blue, or red.

RGB


Color Temp


Composite Gamma (HDMI is practically identical)


Gamma looks a little weird, but "seems" low because of the graph's scale (it's actually 1.75, not 2.2, not that far off target). But this was the most natural setting for my living room -- must be related to adjustments I've made for my viewing environment, no thanks to my wife's Frankenstein decorating scheme (don't ask!). In actual viewing I see no gamma problems with any input, except that many SD cable channels look dim and thin (no surprise), so I'm leaving gamma as-is. A few second-rate DVD's need mild contrast adjustment, but the colors always seem right. The gamma trail is desirably smooth, not skewed all over the chart. The HDMI gamma curve looks exactly like this one.

I confess that finally I found a digital creature I can live with for classic 4:3 movies and occasional DTV stuff, marred a bit by occasional motion blur (DVD sill looks mighty stable, though), and the really annoying viewing angle (it can't be more than 10 degrees at any angle, which is REALLY ticking me off. My wife ain't happy on that score, either. Practically sitting on top of each other to watch a movie together from 7 feet ain't really unpleasant, but it's a bit overcrowded). Had Samsung and others not omitted s-video and some component/analog inputs from their latest models, I might have gone for a better 2009 panel and maybe even 120Hz. But considering the 2009 input limitations -- and I'm one of many who maintain that HDMI is inferior by design, thank you -- I figure this Sammy ain't bad at all.
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post #2888 of 3237
I am a new member, and was wondering what all this talk is about calibrating an LCD TV? I have the Samsung LNA46-550A. How do you do the calibrating, and do I need a meter of some sort, or is it just a matter of doing with tv controls?
post #2889 of 3237
Quote:
Originally Posted by steveandbelinda View Post

I am a new member, and was wondering what all this talk is about calibrating an LCD TV? I have the Samsung LNA46-550A. How do you do the calibrating, and do I need a meter of some sort, or is it just a matter of doing with tv controls?

Standards exist that specify what a display should produce for a given input stimulus... grayscale color temperature, black and white points, gamma and color gamut (hue, luminance and saturation of colors). Virtually no television comes close to these standards "out of the box", though the movie/warm settings typically come the closest.

Calibration is the process of feeding the display test signals with known specific stimulii and adjusting the controls on the TV so that the output conforms to the standards. This will ensure that what you see is as close as possible to what the content creator intended for you to see.

Some type of test signal source is required, but some of the calibration adjustments... black level and "rough" adjustment of color and tint controls can be done without test equipment other than use of the "blue-only" mode in the TV or a blue gel filter. Calibration beyond that generally requires a meter and software to perform.

Many TVs require access to hidden/secret service menus to perform the adjustments that are typical of the calibration process. Your Samsung has a very complete set of calibration settings available in the user menus.

Tom Huffmans thread...
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=852536
is the go-to source here for calibration issues/questions. There are also threads dedicated to specific calibration software packages such as the free HCFR package:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=786966
and there is also the well regarded "Grayscale and Colour Calibration for Dummies" thread available here:
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457
I think that this is probably the best place to start to determine if self-calibartion is something you might want to tackle... I know I found it invaluable as i attcked the process the first time.

Of course, you can always hire somebody to do it for you if you don;t have the time or inclination to tackle it yourself.

You can also do what many folks do... try the calibration settings posted by others with similar TV models. This is pot-luck at best... firmware and production changes/tolerances make it unlikely that another TVs calibration settings would apply perfectly to your TV.
post #2890 of 3237
JCal, have you been able to update firmware yet?
post #2891 of 3237
could anyone suggest me a good calibration foer ps3 gaming.
i use game mode with hdmi set to low.
thanks.
post #2892 of 3237
anyone have a link to the newer firmwares?
post #2893 of 3237
Quote:
Originally Posted by toy4two2 View Post

anyone have a link to the newer firmwares?

Newer than what? 1006 is the newest available from Samsung as an update. 1007 & 1008 have been supplied with newer sets, but they contain no known bug fixes.
post #2894 of 3237
Does anyone have any calibration settings for the LN46A550 with firmware .1004?
post #2895 of 3237
Quote:
Originally Posted by steveandbelinda View Post

I am a new member, and was wondering what all this talk is about calibrating an LCD TV? I have the Samsung LNA46-550A. How do you do the calibrating, and do I need a meter of some sort, or is it just a matter of doing with tv controls?

You can also do what a lot of folks around here do and thats to "calibrate" your TV using a calibration DVD or BD like Digital Video Essentials. Also, there are calibrations settings found in most DVD's with the THX logo on the cover. Just go into the Set Up menu and click on the THX logo and that should take you to the calibration menu (pretty much all Star Wars discs have this)

Before tackling something like this though, you should read about calibration and what tv controls affect what aspect of your TV's performance. You should understand exactly what it is you are adjusting and how it needs to be adjusted before beginning.

While the "Calibration DVD" method won't produce anything as accurate as an ISF Calibration (or the Do it Yourself version with the proper equipment) it can get your TV looking better than it does out of the box, but only if you adjust it correctly.
post #2896 of 3237
Any easy solutions to this problem?

I have my HTPC running to my ln40a550 through a dvi-to-hdmi into my Onkyo 606. Then a HDMI from my 606 to my tv. (Actually it might just plug into my TV directly, I'll check tonight) I run a resolution of 1680x1050 and it stretches out on all sides to not show, for example, the task bar.

Is this something I should change on my PC? on the TV?

Any help is greatly appreciated!
post #2897 of 3237
Quote:
Originally Posted by wojcikc3 View Post

Any easy solutions to this problem?

I have my HTPC running to my ln40a550 through a dvi-to-hdmi into my Onkyo 606. Then a HDMI from my 606 to my tv. (Actually it might just plug into my TV directly, I'll check tonight) I run a resolution of 1680x1050 and it stretches out on all sides to not show, for example, the task bar.

Is this something I should change on my PC? on the TV?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

1680x1050 is a 16x10 aspect ratio and your TV is 16:9, so that aspect ratio will never "fit" perfectly. Its also not one of the officially supported resolutions for the TV.

I would would recommend:
  • Use 1920x1080/60Hz for the PC resolution or, if supported, 1080p "TV" resolution. Earlier today Clicq posted some video card setting suggestions which may possibly apply to you: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post16542735
  • Make sure any underscan/overscan settings on the PC are turned off.
  • If possible, input the PC directly to HDMI2/DVI on the TV. The TV is optimized for PC inputs on HDMI2 only, and then only if you rename the input "PC". This may be less of an issue if your video card does support true 1080p TV resolution, but if its set up as a standard PC video out, HDMI2 renamed as PC is the way to go.
  • Set the TV P.Size to Just Scan.
I have two PC's connected to mine... Media PC DVI > HDMI2 and a notebook connected to the VGA input. Both are running 1920x1080/60Hz and they both look terrific.
post #2898 of 3237
Quote:
Originally Posted by wojcikc3 View Post

Any easy solutions to this problem?

I have my HTPC running to my ln40a550 through a dvi-to-hdmi into my Onkyo 606. Then a HDMI from my 606 to my tv. (Actually it might just plug into my TV directly, I'll check tonight) I run a resolution of 1680x1050 and it stretches out on all sides to not show, for example, the task bar.

Is this something I should change on my PC? on the TV?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Assuming the A550 matches the A650, 1680x1050 is not one of the standard display modes listed in the PC Display section of the manual. Assuming you cannot increase the resolution to 1920x1080, the lower resolution modes listed for HDMI include 1280x1024, 1360x768 and 1024x768. If you try one of these, you might not lose the edges.
post #2899 of 3237
Does anyone have any calibration settings for the LN46A550 with firmware .1004?
post #2900 of 3237
I tried clicq's calibrations for firmware 1000-102.2 and it looked incredible. The only difference I had to make was to turn energy saving off, because it looked a little too dim in my room. Then I realized my firmware was 1008.0, so I tried his calibration 1006.1 (I've read that there are no discernable differences between 1006-1008) and it didn't look nearly as good. Has anybody else experienced the same results as me?
post #2901 of 3237
Thanks for the help Bill and jcalabria. I won't be able to try it for a few days, but I'll let you know how it goes.
post #2902 of 3237
Does anyone have any calibration settings for the LN46A550 with firmware .1004?
post #2903 of 3237
Quote:
Originally Posted by cccsdad View Post

Does anyone have any calibration settings for the LN46A550 with firmware .1004?

We see you buddy.
post #2904 of 3237
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcalabria View Post

[*]If possible, input the PC directly to HDMI2/DVI on the TV. The TV is optimized for PC inputs on HDMI2 only, and then only if you rename the input "PC". This may be less of an issue if your video card does support true 1080p TV resolution, but if its set up as a standard PC video out, HDMI2 renamed as PC is the way to go.

Thanks jcalabria. This fixed it so my whole screen is visible. It is not a native resolution because my video card can't go up to 1080p, so I'll just have to deal with it.
post #2905 of 3237
Can someone recommend me a decently priced wall mount for this set that provides decent room for plugging in the necessary wires, and tell me where on the back of this set I'd attatch it to? This would be my first wall mounting so, sorry for the silly questions.
post #2906 of 3237
Quote:
Originally Posted by mzupeman View Post

Can someone recommend me a decently priced wall mount for this set that provides decent room for plugging in the necessary wires, and tell me where on the back of this set I'd attatch it to? This would be my first wall mounting so, sorry for the silly questions.

What size is your TV?
post #2907 of 3237
Its the 46 inch A550.
post #2908 of 3237
Quote:
Originally Posted by mzupeman View Post

Its the 46 inch A550.

We hang those in commercial installations with Chief MTR mounts.

http://www.chiefmfg.com/productdetai...roductID=26537

They are about 1.5" deep, which is not the thinnest available but leaves room for cabling. The model specific version for the 46A550 is an MTR6534. There is also a universal version MTR-U.

Chief caters primarily to commercial/pro installers, but they are available on the web for ~ $100 if you shop around. Dealer cost is around $87.
post #2909 of 3237
Looking briefly at the back of my tv last night, I wasn't sure where I would connect a mount. Any descriptions of what I should be looking for, if I have to remove something, or anything else I need to know? It just wasn't clear to me upon my first inspection back there.
post #2910 of 3237
Quote:
Originally Posted by mzupeman View Post

Looking briefly at the back of my tv last night, I wasn't sure where I would connect a mount. Any descriptions of what I should be looking for, if I have to remove something, or anything else I need to know? It just wasn't clear to me upon my first inspection back there.

On the 46 there are four 8mm threaded sockets in a standard VESA 600mm x 400mm pattern. Pages 88 (chart) & 94 (model specific drawing) in the manual show this.
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