Originally Posted by slosvt
Here is a pic of the grayscale post calibration on my Panny G10 and proof that I do know how to dial it in. lol
Oh I see, sorry for thinking otherwise.
I tend to ignore the 0% and 10% readings due to the limitations of my meter, but 10% should not be that far off and I imagine that 0% should be close too given the rest of the readings. I have tried everything I did with my Panny with the Samsung, but I am having no luck and running out of ideas.
10% stimulus for peak white of 100 cd/m2 is about .6 cd/m2. The red contribution is a fraction of that, but the measurement error is like .05 cd/m2 right (at least I know it is for my i1)? That means that the error in measuring the light is comparable to the relative amount of red (about a fifth of the total Y of white), imagine being unsure of if the value of .12 could really be .07 or .17 instead since they're both within the error bars! That's why it's not trust worthy.
But even if you could, you'll never get that lcd to behave like your plasma in that range because lcds have a blue push at low luminance.
As far as the gamma. What is the best way to lower the top half without hurting the shape in the middle?
Just try different gamma settings until you get it right. This is what I do:
(1) change gamma
(2) reset brightness using pluge pattern
(3) remeasure the grayscale
I do that until I find the best gamma curve.
It is kind of ironic that I can nail the grayscale/gamma on my Panny G10, but the colors are way off and not going anywhere without CMS. On the Sammy I can nail the color, but the grayscale/gamma are giving me fits. Oh the joys of calibration, what was I thinking when I decided to try it!?!?
Well I assume you're doing it for fun (that's why I got into it). If I was going to get the i1pro and premium software, I would just spend the money on a professional calibration and enjoy the superior picture, but that's just me.