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Official LNXXA550 Calibration/Settings Thread - Page 19

post #541 of 3237
5/15/08 at 11:25am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by crakarjax View Post

Yes, what I meant was that on Expanded, BTB does not show up WITH THE BRIGHTNESS TURNED UP. I thought that was apparent in my description of how black detail is lost when set to expanded. I obviously have done my research considering that I am the only one stating that expanded will kill detail in your lower registers....

As for my settings, it is true that I used the white balance from the 1499 post, which is incorrect. I use Cripsy's white balance now. I will repost the post with my current settings here, since this seems to be the place for it anyway...

It may be the case where the "Expanded" setting kills the BTB value. I haven't tried this yet. But regardless...you shouldn't see that bar anyway. So, theoretically if you can see both of the other 2 bars you can still adjust your set correctly with brightness adjustments since the BTB bar shouldn't be seen anyway. But I understand what you are saying and if this is the case..then I can see why you state using standard over expanded. This is why I am currently using Standard with my TV HDMI level on Low. But for those who do use expanded...you set can still be configured properly because the third BTB bar shouldn't be seen anyway.
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post #542 of 3237
5/15/08 at 12:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by outsiderwv View Post

I don't have dynamic contrast on high. I am not sure what you are refering to. My xbox settings has it on low and my movie settings has it off.

i was talking to lemon not u
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post #543 of 3237
5/15/08 at 12:58pm
hey lemon,have u tried crackerjax X360 settings (how the heck can xbox on standard and the tv on normal black levels give good blacks ?!?!) and are these better than cellhydra's? also outsider can u compare ur settings to these 2,cells and crackerjax and confirm wich ones would be the better choice ? i found myself having to calibrate cell's settings far too much for xbox360 since i think they were made for movies originaly
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post #544 of 3237
5/15/08 at 1:01pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kangaroo128 View Post

Davez have you tried adjusting the settings for GTA in game. I had to do this on mine. Granted, I'm on the 360 over component so this may be a lot different. But I believe I bumped both my brightness and contrast up two notches in the GTA menu. Try and see if that helps?

I also wanted to let you guys know that I'm really digging chelhydra's settings. They produce much better details in blacks and greys than the 1499 settings. For now, I've found my new favorite calibrations. The only change I've made is to bump up the backlight a few notches.

cool,thats also what im using for now for my xbox360 but i think i may go with 1 of the newer settings that were just posted or outsiders,u should compare them and see how they come out the other ones may be even better i just havent had the time yet to compare all these settings,but for cell hyra's settings did u keep it in movie mode or put it in standard ? i think the standard mode with his settings made everything look alot better than movie mode and i was bumped up the backlight as it was too dim he seems to like a dark picture. I was also wondering if u have any good sound settings/saw any good ones for this set other than ryes audio settings ?
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post #545 of 3237
5/16/08 at 5:49am
Can someone tell me where I can find chelhydra's settings?

Thanks
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post #546 of 3237
5/16/08 at 6:40am
no, quiete frankly i havent tried his settings, HOWEVER, I made a final calibration for my 360 and ps3 as to brigthness and contrast, and its proffesionaly calibrated now and i dont have 1 bit of black crush. for the PS3, contrast is 95, brightness is 51.(hdmi), on the 360, contrast is 95, brightness is 38.(component) and that is it, but i cant tell anything about crack's settings because he didnt even posted his sharpness or color settings, nor TINT, so what is there to compare? oh btw viper , i pumped my sharpness to 75 for my ps3 and 360, great for gaming.
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post #547 of 3237
5/16/08 at 7:22am
Quote:
Originally Posted by lamonsasa View Post

no, quiete frankly i havent tried his settings, HOWEVER, I made a final calibration for my 360 and ps3 as to brigthness and contrast, and its proffesionaly calibrated now and i dont have 1 bit of black crush. for the PS3, contrast is 95, brightness is 51.(hdmi), on the 360, contrast is 95, brightness is 38.(component) and that is it, but i cant tell anything about crack's settings because he didnt even posted his sharpness or color settings, nor TINT, so what is there to compare? oh btw viper , i pumped my sharpness to 75 for my ps3 and 360, great for gaming.

I didn't post those settings because they aren't available when you set your source name to "Game" or "PC" as I said... and they shouldn't be. The idea is that for true RGB sources (ie 360, PS3, and PCs), there is a lot of processing that the TV does NOT need to do, and the RGB(tint) etcetera is already correct. I guess your professional calibrator was unaware

I'd appreciate it if you guys would check out my settings and give me some feedback!
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post #548 of 3237
5/16/08 at 7:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by crakarjax View Post

Alright then try this...

Pop digital video essentials into your xbox with "expanded" set. Go the brightness pattern. Do you see the THIRD black bars, the ones that are at "blacker than black" levels? Nope. You can't see them because this TV is not made to accept levels below 7.5 moire, which means you have lost all detail in dark scenes. Congrats.

Now, set it to standard or maybe even intermediate and try again.

The 1499 post is for a different set, and you did not see anything about this "all over the internet" because I guarantee that AVSFORUM is pretty much the only place discussing the issue for this set. I did a lot of testing to figure this out and I even posted an entire post dedicated to correct 360 settings for this set.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post13611972

As far as a washed out picture is concerned, it is because you have not calibrated your set with the xbox set to standard.

you must live in a box or a whole in the wall avsforums is not the only place where the xbox 360 reference level has been discussed, I have seen it discussed on xbox.com, teamxbox.com, joystick, afterdawn.com, majornelson, and a few more places. So what your saying means nothing. Then on top of it all I have my xbox 360 set currently on dynamic mode with my own personal modified settings. I want my games to look like games. Do me a favor try outsiders settings just change the reference level to expanded and the hdmi to normal. Pop in gears of war or call of duty 4 and report back.
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post #549 of 3237
5/16/08 at 7:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by crakarjax View Post

I didn't post those settings because they aren't available when you set your source name to "Game" or "PC" as I said... and they shouldn't be. The idea is that for true RGB sources (ie 360, PS3, and PCs), there is a lot of processing that the TV does NOT need to do, and the RGB(tint) etcetera is already correct. I guess your professional calibrator was unaware

I'd appreciate it if you guys would check out my settings and give me some feedback!

I will when I get home.
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post #550 of 3237
5/16/08 at 7:41am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by crakarjax View Post

I didn't post those settings because they aren't available when you set your source name to "Game" or "PC" as I said... and they shouldn't be. The idea is that for true RGB sources (ie 360, PS3, and PCs), there is a lot of processing that the TV does NOT need to do, and the RGB(tint) etcetera is already correct. I guess your professional calibrator was unaware

I'd appreciate it if you guys would check out my settings and give me some feedback!

Actually they are. I have my HDMI2 set to "GAME" (Not typed, selected and also not GAME MODE) and I have all options available for editing. Maybe this is true for HDMI and not Component? But again, you are posting incorrect information; or at least information that is lacking detail. If anyone has an xbox 360 hooked up via HDMI and selects the name for that port to be "GAME", you will have all options available if you are using standard or movie mode. I don't know about component though.

I also made one additional tweak to my xbox settings. I turned black adjust to off. So here are my current xbox 360 (HDMI) settings for those interested:

XBOX 360 Settings (HDMI):

Mode = Movie

Backlight = 5
Contrast = 88
Brightness = 49
Sharpness = 15
Color = 50
Tint = G53/R47

DETAILED SETTINGS

Black Adjust = Off
Dynamic Contrast = Low
Gamma = 0
Color Space = Custom
Red: R33 - G0 - B0
Green: R18 - G52 - B0
Blue: R11 - G0 - B51
Yellow: R49 - G53 - B0
Cyan: R22 - G46 - B56
Magenta: R37 - G0 - B43
Flesh Tone = 0
Edge Enhancement = Off
Xycc = Off

WHITE BALANCE

R-Offset = 26
G-Offset = 25
B-Offset = 22
R-Gain = 30
G-Gain = 25
B-Gain = 25

PICTURE OPTIONS

Color Tone = Warm 2
Digital N/R = Off
HDMI Black Level = Low (actually it's disabled when playing Blu-ray)
Film Mode = off (disabled)
Blue Mode = Off

Energy Saving = Low
Entertainment modes = Off

Also the Reference Level on my Xbox is set to Standard.




Also the same thing goes for the PS3 hooked up via HDMI and labeled as BlueRay, you can change every setting. Even though my PS3 is calibrated with my movie settings.
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post #551 of 3237
5/16/08 at 2:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by dipset121 View Post

you must live in a box or a whole in the wall avsforums is not the only place where the xbox 360 reference level has been discussed, I have seen it discussed on xbox.com, teamxbox.com, joystick, afterdawn.com, majornelson, and a few more places. So what your saying means nothing. Then on top of it all I have my xbox 360 set currently on dynamic mode with my own personal modified settings. I want my games to look like games. Do me a favor try outsiders settings just change the reference level to expanded and the hdmi to normal. Pop in gears of war or call of duty 4 and report back.

Really??? Because the only relevant result I get when I type "xbox 360 standard expanded ln46a550" into google is from AVSFORUM. So please go back and edit your post before you mislead people, and take the time to read and understand posts that you reply to. I'm willing to bet that you conveniently ignored the phrase "this set", which qualifies my statement as only being relevant to topics discussing this set in particular, which is also why my search quote included the model of this TV.

You see, every TV is different, and some TVs expect 0 IRE while others expect 7.5 IRE. I'd be happy to explain to you what that means, but I'd like to know that you will actually read what I post before I go to the trouble.
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post #552 of 3237
5/16/08 at 2:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by outsiderwv View Post

Actually they are. I have my HDMI2 set to "GAME" (Not typed, selected and also not GAME MODE) and I have all options available for editing. Maybe this is true for HDMI and not Component? But again, you are posting incorrect information; or at least information that is lacking detail. ...

Hmmm, I am on HDMI2 so perhaps that only applies to PC... but I certainly lost control of those options.

And when have I posted incorrect info? It may have been misunderstood info, but I am pretty sure that it was correct... Please don't be offended when I post info that conflicts with yours, I am just trying to make sure that accurate information is here for others to reference. I don't have the time to post details or explanations of why what I am saying is correct, but I will try to post some links to articles that might help you understand IRE and the like.

However, if you aren't worried about compressing the darker shades coming through your 360, then I can understand your reasoning that expanded would be a better choice, as the colors will appear to "pop" more due to clipping of the brightest and darkest shades... but remember, that's not what game developers meant for you to see.


EDIT:

Good IRE discussion

one with pictures!
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post #553 of 3237
5/16/08 at 3:33pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by crakarjax View Post

Hmmm, I am on HDMI2 so perhaps that only applies to PC... but I certainly lost control of those options.

And when have I posted incorrect info? It may have been misunderstood info, but I am pretty sure that it was correct... Please don't be offended when I post info that conflicts with yours, I am just trying to make sure that accurate information is here for others to reference. I don't have the time to post details or explanations of why what I am saying is correct, but I will try to post some links to articles that might help you understand IRE and the like.

However, if you aren't worried about compressing the darker shades coming through your 360, then I can understand your reasoning that expanded would be a better choice, as the colors will appear to "pop" more due to clipping of the brightest and darkest shades... but remember, that's not what game developers meant for you to see.


EDIT:

Good IRE discussion

one with pictures!

Obviously you didn't even read what my posts said. You don't, I repeat, DON'T have to see the third black bar. It is BTB and isn't supposed to be seen. However you must not have read my settings, they are set at standard with the HDMI level set to low. I am not saying what you posted regarding the clipping is incorrect, just the fact that you shouldn't see the BTB bar anyway. So expanded or standard will work if calibrated with that setting.

I am not offended with what you posted. Just trying to keep all the information correct. So if "PC" labeled connections disable all of the calibration options, that should be noted, but "Game" doesn't.
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post #554 of 3237
5/16/08 at 3:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by outsiderwv View Post

Actually they are. I have my HDMI2 set to "GAME" (Not typed, selected and also not GAME MODE) and I have all options available for editing. Maybe this is true for HDMI and not Component? But again, you are posting incorrect information; or at least information that is lacking detail. If anyone has an xbox 360 hooked up via HDMI and selects the name for that port to be "GAME", you will have all options available if you are using standard or movie mode. I don't know about component though.

I also made one additional tweak to my xbox settings. I turned black adjust to off. So here are my current xbox 360 (HDMI) settings for those interested:

XBOX 360 Settings (HDMI):

Mode: Standard
Backlight: 5
Contrast: 92
Brightness: 47
Sharpness: 30
Color: 55
Tint (G/R): 53/47

Detailed Settings:
Black Adjust: Off
Dynamic Contrast: Low
Gamma: 0
Color Space: Auto
Flesh Tone: 0
Edge Enhancement: On

Picture Settings:
Color Tone: Normal
Size: Just Scan
HDMI Black Level: Low

Energy Savings: Low

Also the Reference Level on my Xbox is set to Standard.




Also the same thing goes for the PS3 hooked up via HDMI and labeled as BlueRay, you can change every setting.

I just tried these settings and they look pretty damn good - best I've used so far. My problem is that it's not my preferred setup for Cable, and I have them both running thru a Sony HT-C100 home theater system going into HDMI1 on the TV, so I can't have separate settings. Hmm...
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post #555 of 3237
5/16/08 at 5:02pm
i dont think that Contrast: 92
Brightness: 47 is good anymore, because its not a calibrated setting due to DVE. if u have contrast on 92, Brightness should be 51 if running using HDMI, if running with component , brightness should be 39. thats the correct setting. yea every tv is different but the settings i just posted maybe differ by 1 movement of the settings(i.e. if i said brightness is 51 then maybe for you the CORRECT setting according to the DVE calibration will be 52) but i doubt that. but yea if you want no black crush at all whether ur using the DYNAMIC setting or Standard, these 2 settings are most likely the most accurate according to the brightness TEST PATTERN. Hey btw guys i have a question, to get more POP, should contrast be risen from 92 a little more?(and adjusting the brightness accordinly aswell). what effect does raising contrast have picture quality wise? deeper blacks?


btw the reason why contrast 92 and brightness 47 is not so good is because you are crushing blacks that way, i know i know that the image might look a little better when u set brightness down but according to the test pattern and even if u check for yourself, in movies or whatever, look in dark areas with brightness 47 and then pump it up to 51, u will see that that black u were seeing actually has some detail! thats what the calibration is about, if u calibrated urself and u came up with 92 and brightness 47 then ok but if u didnt calibrate and just followed the settings posted here i suggest u set brightness on 51 if hdmi and 39 if component. but its upto yall

btw i also have my 360 source name set to GAME and i have all settings available, such as color tint sharpness and all that so no its not component like outsider said, makes no difference.
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post #556 of 3237
5/16/08 at 5:24pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lamonsasa View Post

i dont think that Contrast: 92
Brightness: 47 is good anymore, because its not a calibrated setting due to DVE. if u have contrast on 92, Brightness should be 51 if running using HDMI, if running with component , brightness should be 39. thats the correct setting. yea every tv is different but the settings i just posted maybe differ by 1 movement of the settings(i.e. if i said brightness is 51 then maybe for you the CORRECT setting according to the DVE calibration will be 52) but i doubt that. but yea if you want no black crush at all whether ur using the DYNAMIC setting or Standard, these 2 settings are most likely the most accurate according to the brightness TEST PATTERN. Hey btw guys i have a question, to get more POP, should contrast be risen from 92 a little more?(and adjusting the brightness accordinly aswell). what effect does raising contrast have picture quality wise? deeper blacks?


btw the reason why contrast 92 and brightness 47 is not so good is because you are crushing blacks that way, i know i know that the image might look a little better when u set brightness down but according to the test pattern and even if u check for yourself, in movies or whatever, look in dark areas with brightness 47 and then pump it up to 51, u will see that that black u were seeing actually has some detail! thats what the calibration is about, if u calibrated urself and u came up with 92 and brightness 47 then ok but if u didnt calibrate and just followed the settings posted here i suggest u set brightness on 51 if hdmi and 39 if component. but its upto yall

btw i also have my 360 source name set to GAME and i have all settings available, such as color tint sharpness and all that so no its not component like outsider said, makes no difference.


Maybe on your TV, not on mine. Also this is my settings for gaming, I don't care if they are ISF correct or not for gaming. I only care about that for movies and my movie setting, but thanks for the input. I will put the disk in again to verify, but last time i checked, it was correct for me, especially since I turned off the black adjust feature from low to off.
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post #557 of 3237
5/16/08 at 5:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lamonsasa View Post

i dont think that Contrast: 92
Brightness: 47 is good anymore, because its not a calibrated setting due to DVE. if u have contrast on 92, Brightness should be 51 if running using HDMI, if running with component , brightness should be 39. thats the correct setting. yea every tv is different but the settings i just posted maybe differ by 1 movement of the settings(i.e. if i said brightness is 51 then maybe for you the CORRECT setting according to the DVE calibration will be 52) but i doubt that. but yea if you want no black crush at all whether ur using the DYNAMIC setting or Standard, these 2 settings are most likely the most accurate according to the brightness TEST PATTERN. Hey btw guys i have a question, to get more POP, should contrast be risen from 92 a little more?(and adjusting the brightness accordinly aswell). what effect does raising contrast have picture quality wise? deeper blacks?


btw the reason why contrast 92 and brightness 47 is not so good is because you are crushing blacks that way, i know i know that the image might look a little better when u set brightness down but according to the test pattern and even if u check for yourself, in movies or whatever, look in dark areas with brightness 47 and then pump it up to 51, u will see that that black u were seeing actually has some detail! thats what the calibration is about, if u calibrated urself and u came up with 92 and brightness 47 then ok but if u didnt calibrate and just followed the settings posted here i suggest u set brightness on 51 if hdmi and 39 if component. but its upto yall

btw i also have my 360 source name set to GAME and i have all settings available, such as color tint sharpness and all that so no its not component like outsider said, makes no difference.

Should of stuck with my DVE settings. Seemed to worked and be pretty close to 6500k.
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post #558 of 3237
5/16/08 at 5:37pm
well yea but i can see the third BTB strip on the test pattern with your setting thebegining so i guess its a bit different on my TV so ya, for me its 92 and 51 for hdmi and 92 and 39 for component(by component i mean the xbox 360, i dont have any other component device to verify). 100% verified by DVE.

btw i have a question, on the cable box, which settings i should use? the settings that i use for my PS3 since the cable box is hooked up with HDMI just like my PS3? because heck i dont have a place to stick the DVE disc into the cable box to calibrate brightness there but i noticed that lower brightness gives me a better picture on my cable box, or so i think because with 51 brightness, on the cable box, the picture is looking kind of washed out which is BADLY HATE!
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post #559 of 3237
5/16/08 at 5:59pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBeginning View Post

Should of stuck with my DVE settings. Seemed to worked and be pretty close to 6500k.

You can't get close to 6500K with a DVE disk. This can only be done with an ISF calibration and using the Warm2 setting. However since cripsy posted his, you may be using his white balance which will put you closer to 6500K.
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post #560 of 3237
5/16/08 at 7:02pm
outsider, crispy's white balance settings are better than chelhydra's white balance settings? im asking because u tried both, i dont remember the difference when i tried both.
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post #561 of 3237
5/16/08 at 7:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lamonsasa View Post

btw i also have my 360 source name set to GAME and i have all settings available, such as color tint sharpness and all that so no its not component like outsider said, makes no difference.

Brain fart, you guys are right... In game mode DNIe is disabled, and in my original calibration post I just referenced the 1499 settings... but my previous post's settings weren't even what my TV is set to!

So here are my REAL settings, sorry for the confusion. I agree with lamon that brightness should be up around 51 with HDMI level on Low, but it will be lower if HDMI level is set to Normal.


Picture
Picture mode: Movie
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 51
Backlight: 5
Sharpness: 32
Color: 62
Tint: 55/45


Detailed Settings
Dynamic Contrast: Low
Gamma: +1
White Balance
R-Offset = 23
G-Offset = 28
B-Offset = 17
R-Gain = 31
G-Gain = 24
B-Gain = 37

Picture Options
Color Tone: Warm1
DNR: off
HDMI Black Level : Low

Energy Saving: Off

The important things to note are:

- HDMI is named PC or Game (some have said that "Game" reduces lag)
- Xbox 360 reference levels Standard


These settings are actually significantly different than the ones I posted before. I was at work so I kinda rushed through it. Give them a shot, they are very similar to Cripsy's but I thought his were way too warm so I knocked it down to warm1 and adjusted as appropriate.

As for BTB, I think that xbox games actually DO use BTB signals in their textures to acheive a larger dynamic range, meaning that you may not see BTB on the DVE disk, but it could have a significant effect while playing games.
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post #562 of 3237
5/16/08 at 9:06pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lamonsasa View Post

outsider, crispy's white balance settings are better than chelhydra's white balance settings? im asking because u tried both, i dont remember the difference when i tried both.

I would say definately. Cripsy had his set ISF calibrated and no one else here as (that we know of). He posted his results and therefore they should be the closest thing to 6500K, or a professional calibration that can be used for this TV. That is why I use my "modified" cripsy settings for my DVD/Blue-Ray and Cable Viewing.
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post #563 of 3237
5/16/08 at 9:08pm
looking for ps3 setting for gaming/movies or can i use the xbox setting for ps3
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post #564 of 3237
5/17/08 at 10:09am
Outsider, are you still using your settings on post #404 for TV/Blu Ray watching?

And should they still be optimal for regular DVD's through component? Cause that's what I'm using now. Thanks in advance!

Also, another question; should I have the xvYCC if watching regular old DVD's through my component cable?

And one more question... when I press 'info' while watching DVDs, it says 720x480 @ 60hz, I know the 60hz is what it should say but what about the 720x480 part?
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post #565 of 3237
5/17/08 at 12:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by myers_37 View Post

Outsider, are you still using your settings on post #404 for TV/Blu Ray watching?

And should they still be optimal for regular DVD's through component? Cause that's what I'm using now. Thanks in advance!

Also, another question; should I have the xvYCC if watching regular old DVD's through my component cable?

And one more question... when I press 'info' while watching DVDs, it says 720x480 @ 60hz, I know the 60hz is what it should say but what about the 720x480 part?

DVD movies are 480p, ie 720x480. If you get an upconverting DVD player, it can output at higher resolutions while also increasing the picture quality.
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post #566 of 3237
5/17/08 at 1:50pm
hey lemon so now they u got urs proffesionaly calibrated do u still have urs set like cell hydra's settings anymore ? what did this calibrator do should i use them to ?
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post #567 of 3237
5/17/08 at 3:05pm
Hey all, new to the forums here. I just picked up an LN32A550 from Best Buy earlier today. (I wanted the 32'' Sony Bravia XBR6, but didn't have the extra $300.) It replaces a Sharp Aquos LC-26GA5U. I've hooked up a DirecTV HR21 receiver via HDMI, a Wii via component, and a PS2 via component. So far, I love it.

Being a noob to both this TV and the forums, I have a couple of questions.

One: from reading the thread, I'm getting the impression that the name labels one applies to the source list will affect how the A550 displays those sources. (For example, if I hook a DVD player up and assign it the label of Satellite, the TV would apply different settings than if it were labeled DVD.) Is this true? And if so, how do I exploit this for each of my components?

Two: I'm clueless how to best configure each input. I'm using crispy's configuration for my DirecTV HDMI connection, but beyond that, I'm at a loss. I have a Wii and PS2 hooked up via component, and plan to get a PS3 next month when the 80GB bundle comes out. Maybe I missed it, but I don't see any posts with calibration suggestions for any of those devices.

Three: are there any settings I should enable/disable in my DirecTV's settings menu?

Thanks, guys. Love this set so far.
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post #568 of 3237
5/17/08 at 7:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Desides View Post

Hey all, new to the forums here. I just picked up an LN32A550 from Best Buy earlier today. (I wanted the 32'' Sony Bravia XBR6, but didn't have the extra $300.) It replaces a Sharp Aquos LC-26GA5U. I've hooked up a DirecTV HR21 receiver via HDMI, a Wii via component, and a PS2 via component. So far, I love it.

Being a noob to both this TV and the forums, I have a couple of questions.

One: from reading the thread, I'm getting the impression that the name labels one applies to the source list will affect how the A550 displays those sources. (For example, if I hook a DVD player up and assign it the label of Satellite, the TV would apply different settings than if it were labeled DVD.) Is this true? And if so, how do I exploit this for each of my components?

Two: I'm clueless how to best configure each input. I'm using crispy's configuration for my DirecTV HDMI connection, but beyond that, I'm at a loss. I have a Wii and PS2 hooked up via component, and plan to get a PS3 next month when the 80GB bundle comes out. Maybe I missed it, but I don't see any posts with calibration suggestions for any of those devices.

Three: are there any settings I should enable/disable in my DirecTV's settings menu?

Thanks, guys. Love this set so far.

Not sure: Game is supposed to reduce lag, so it certainly does affect something. Otherwise, the actual effect of the labels is not well documented AFAIK.
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post #569 of 3237
5/17/08 at 8:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by crakarjax View Post

Not sure: Game is supposed to reduce lag, so it certainly does affect something. Otherwise, the actual effect of the labels is not well documented AFAIK.

I'll keep the PS2 and Wii set at Game, then. Thank you.

What about calibration settings for the Wii and PS2 over component? I'm still clueless on that front.
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post #570 of 3237
5/17/08 at 9:48pm
Hey guys, I'm just wondering if there are any picture calibration settings (for TV viewing) that are generally accepted by the community. I've read through much of this thread, but i've only been able to find everyone's personal settings. I guess I'm looking for the picture equivalent of Rye82's audio settings -- something most people seem to agree on. Any help?
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