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official Lg 42LG50 owner's thread - Page 8

post #211 of 313
no problem diprivan. it's tough to calibrate for broadcast since each channel is gonna be different and you're also dealing with hd and sd signals all at once. then there's the lack of test patterns to go by.

really the best you can do is calibrate for your dvd/bluray player and hope it also looks good for your regular tv watching. if you use the tv to switch inputs (not an avr with a single output) then you can adjust one for movie watching, copy those settings to the input you use for tv watching and adjust things by eye as best you can.

keep an eye on this thread, i hope to have my fianl settings locked in by the end of the week. there's no guarentee they'll look as good on your set as they do on mine but it will give you another set of settings to try out.
post #212 of 313
As far as SD TV channels, you will always get mixed results.

How are you connecting the 360?
post #213 of 313
edit: take not that if you already copied down my settings i just made a slight change to the color settings, particularly that of red.

ok, i finally have my settings. these are as gamma correct as i could get them, they average a little below 2.2. the gamma is a bit lower on the low end of the grayscale, which isn't necessarily bad. it's really about as close as i think the tv is capable of.

color with yellow green and red aren't where i'd like them, but again, it seems to be a limitation of the tv.

Code:
42LG50 

(X-rite i1 Display 2 + ColorHCFR)

Aspect Ratio: Set By Program (Personal Preference)
Picture Mode: Expert 2
Backlight: 70 (Personal Preference)
Contrast: 79
Brightness: 44
Sharpness: 25 (Personal Preference)
Color: 42
Tint: 0

Fresh Contrast: Off
Noise Reduction: Off
Gamma: High
Black Level: High
Real Cinema: On

White Balance: Warm
Method: 10 Point IRE

10 (-31,-33,-45)
20 (-42,-50,-49)
30 (-18,-50,-39)
40 (-44,-50,-28)
50 (-41,-50,-35)
60 (-43,-50,-19)
70 (-36,-40,29)
80 (-43,-42,33)
90 (-40,-41,50)
100 (0,-30,10)

Red Color: 0
Red Tint: 0
Green Color: 0
Green Tint: 5
Blue Color: 0
Blue Tint: 0
Yellow Color: 0
Yellow Tint: -2
Cyan Color: -6
Cyan Tint: 0
Magenta Color: 0
Magenta Tint: -0
i know there's a lot of negative green in the ire settings, this was the only way i could get the gamma in check. basically if the gamma is good from the start, you can leave green alone, unfortunately i needed to shift green to the negative the whole way. i might be able to compensate for this by adjusting the overall green in the service menu, but i'm sure most of you guys won't want to mess around with that, so here are settings with the default service menu values.

make sure you use all settings that aren't marked a personal preference. they all depend on each other to some degree. tell me how they look on your tv, and then tweak them if you see fit to do so.

no guarantee these won't look like utter crap on your tv, i have no idea how much grayscale will vary from one tv to the next, but hopefully they're all similar enough that these will look good for you.

i'll also try to get the 2pt ire settings as well. those might actually look better overall on everyone's tv on average.
post #214 of 313
Hi, I just exchanged my 37LG30 (due to several very bad green stuck subpixels) for a 42LG50...lucky me I will have it delivered next saturday.

I wanted to know something. In the manual, it is said that "This TV ouputs 48Hz in DTV, Component, and HDMI 1080p (24Hz)".

Does that means the TV really does 2:2 pulldown when fed with a 1080p/24Hz blu-ray? Did someone test this feature?

How is it possible for an LCD TV to set its vertical refresh rate below 60Hz? Is the refresh rate not normally fixed?


Thank you in advance!
post #215 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoonRabbit79 View Post

Hi, I just exchanged my 37LG30 (due to several very bad green stuck subpixels) for a 42LG50...lucky me I will have it delivered next saturday.

I wanted to know something. In the manual, it is said that "This TV ouputs 48Hz in DTV, Component, and HDMI 1080p (24Hz)".

Does that means the TV really does 2:2 pulldown when fed with a 1080p/24Hz blu-ray? Did someone test this feature?

How is it possible for an LCD TV to set its vertical refresh rate below 60Hz? Is the refresh rate not normally fixed?


Thank you in advance!

wow you found that in the manual? haha i've been wondering if it did 48hz or 72hz for a while now. i assumed 48hz but wasn't sure. and yeah, it definitely says when it's operating in 1080/24p on the tv display, so i can only assume it's a 2:2 pulldown, sure looks smooth to me.
post #216 of 313
Thats interesting, in the Data Sheet and Manual from March08 it doesn't mention anything about displaying 24p material. I haven't been able to get a PDF of the most recent manual though.

Data Sheet March 08: http://static.tigerdirect.com/pdf/LG...-DataSheet.pdf
Manual March 08: http://www.lge.com/us/tv-audio-video...ser_Manual.pdf

In the new data sheet it says "24p real cinema".
Data Sheet November 08: http://www.lge.com/us/tv-audio-video...spec_sheet.pdf
post #217 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaloi64 View Post

Thats interesting, in the Data Sheet and Manual from March08 it doesn't mention anything about displaying 24p material. I haven't been able to get a PDF of the most recent manual though.

Data Sheet March 08: http://static.tigerdirect.com/pdf/LG...-DataSheet.pdf
Manual March 08: http://www.lge.com/us/tv-audio-video...ser_Manual.pdf

In the new data sheet it says "24p real cinema".
Data Sheet November 08: http://www.lge.com/us/tv-audio-video...spec_sheet.pdf

The info is in the "long manual" (the one on the cd), not the printed manual or the "quick" data sheet manuals. 24p real cinema is confusing because it can also refers to the fact that the TV accepts 1080p/24Hz even if it does 3:2 pulldown with it (instead of the blu-ray player). My old 37LG30 accepted 1080p/24Hz and was doing 3:2 pulldown and my old 32LB4D (120Hz) also accepted 1080p/24Hz and was doing 3:2 pulldown x 2 = 6:4 pulldown with TruMotion set to Off, 5:5 pulldown with TruMotion set to Low and "interpolated" 5:5 pulldown with TruMotion set to High (so much confusing...thanks to LG...)

But all that thing is definitively weird...maybe it is a feature from a plasma TV that has been mistakenly placed in the LCD section (I heard plasma sometimes do 2:2 or 3:3 pulldown - 48Hz or 72Hz)...

And when it comes to LG, don't ask their support service to answer technical questions ...

I will sure have to test that 2:2 pulldown trick when I get my TV, maybe with HD-HQV benchmark blu-ray. And I sure can't wait to calibrate the 42LG50 with my Display LT
post #218 of 313
how can you test for 2:2 vrs 3:2 pulldown? i can check it out now, just need to know what test pattern and procedure to use.

btw, gonna be making a couple more tweaks to my settings pretty soon.
post #219 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandito View Post

how can you test for 2:2 vrs 3:2 pulldown? i can check it out now, just need to know what test pattern and procedure to use.

btw, gonna be making a couple more tweaks to my settings pretty soon.

You can test it with the cadence tests in the HQV-HD benchmarks :

http://www.hqv.com/benchmark.cfm
post #220 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoonRabbit79 View Post

You can test it with the cadence tests in the HQV-HD benchmarks :

http://www.hqv.com/benchmark.cfm

is there a free alternative? it seems they're doing maintenance right now so you can't even buy from them

btw please do post your findings, i'd like to hear how the tv performs.
post #221 of 313
I bought a 42lg50 to use as home theatre. My computer motherboard is ASUS P5Q-EM ( designed to use a home theatre/sound computer). Intel dual core e5200 processor. Installed all related software, updates,drivers from the Asus website/ disc. (windows XP Pro). I get "no signal" through HDMI, DVI-HDMI connections. Tested all the TV's inputs with my PS3 (HDMI) and they all work beautifully. Called LG, ASUS, computer store tech guys -all stumped. Took computer to where I bought it, worked great there on their Samsungs. I am not familiar with any compatability issues like this? Is there some sort of setting on the TV I'm missing? A windows driver perhaps? Can anyone suggest how to resolve this??? Please, before I lose my mind????
post #222 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by froozle View Post

I bought a 42lg50 to use as home theatre. My computer motherboard is ASUS P5Q-EM ( designed to use a home theatre/sound computer). Intel dual core e5200 processor. Installed all related software, updates,drivers from the Asus website/ disc. (windows XP Pro). I get "no signal" through HDMI, DVI-HDMI connections. Tested all the TV's inputs with my PS3 (HDMI) and they all work beautifully. Called LG, ASUS, computer store tech guys -all stumped. Took computer to where I bought it, worked great there on their Samsungs. I am not familiar with any compatability issues like this? Is there some sort of setting on the TV I'm missing? A windows driver perhaps? Can anyone suggest how to resolve this??? Please, before I lose my mind????

what video card are you using?
post #223 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by froozle View Post

I bought a 42lg50 to use as home theatre. My computer motherboard is ASUS P5Q-EM ( designed to use a home theatre/sound computer). Intel dual core e5200 processor. Installed all related software, updates,drivers from the Asus website/ disc. (windows XP Pro). I get "no signal" through HDMI, DVI-HDMI connections. Tested all the TV's inputs with my PS3 (HDMI) and they all work beautifully. Called LG, ASUS, computer store tech guys -all stumped. Took computer to where I bought it, worked great there on their Samsungs. I am not familiar with any compatability issues like this? Is there some sort of setting on the TV I'm missing? A windows driver perhaps? Can anyone suggest how to resolve this??? Please, before I lose my mind????

Your Asus board has the new Intel HD4500 on board graphics card, now it may not be properly detecting the the port or connection your using.

I'm going to assume it works fine connected to a monitor, if not, try that first using a DVI-D cable.

Look at your display settings to see if everything matches the port your using.

You may have to go into the bios settings and set it to output using hdmi.

zuess
post #224 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by zuess View Post

Your Asus board has the new Intel HD4500 on board graphics card, now it may not be properly detecting the the port or connection your using.

I'm going to assume it works fine connected to a monitor, if not, try that first using a DVI-D cable.

Look at your display settings to see if everything matches the port your using.

You may have to go into the bios settings and set it to output using hdmi.

zuess

Thank-you, thank you, thank you...was the BIOS settings that needed tweaking...works great now. You are my new best friend!!!!
post #225 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by froozle View Post

Thank-you, thank you, thank you...was the BIOS settings that needed tweaking...works great now. You are my new best friend!!!!

You're welcome froozle, glad I could help.

I just finished building a computer for a good friend 2 months ago, the Asus board you have is the one I chose for the build.

zuess
post #226 of 313
Hi guys I have one month with this Tv and really works fine on all my devices like Ps3, 360 etc..but sadly after this time I found 2 stuck pixel in red ( in some colors they dont appear) and 1 dead I think because is black,,now I cant return to sams club, because they only gave 20 days of return products,,,I call LG and they said they cant change or fix the Tv ,,because the policy saids I need to have 5 dead pixel or more in the center of the TV...really I cant believe that...how this happend in a new product.

Also its normal this color on SD programs, Im using S-video for this signal, with Blu Ray movies I dont have this problem:





anyway I just want to know if anybody have the same problem? also whats the best calibration for PS3, 360 and Blu Ray ...

Here my stuck pixel:


post #227 of 313
it's likely they won't exchange it for a couple bad pixels. you can try hooking it to your computer and using a stuck pixel fixer. or try "massaging" the pixels back to working condition.

have you had the tv calibrated? if that's sd, you're definitely stretching the image, use "set by program" instead. what's happening is sd is only 480i so when you stretch it to full screen it has to interpolate the image to fill the extra pixels. this creates blocking and a worse image than when you started really.
post #228 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandito View Post

it's likely they won't exchange it for a couple bad pixels. you can try hooking it to your computer and using a stuck pixel fixer. or try "massaging" the pixels back to working condition.

have you had the tv calibrated? if that's sd, you're definitely stretching the image, use "set by program" instead. what's happening is sd is only 480i so when you stretch it to full screen it has to interpolate the image to fill the extra pixels. this creates blocking and a worse image than when you started really.

thks for the tip I also found some programs that fix stuck pixel, anybody know if this system works? also no I dont know how calibrated,,I dont know if anybody can share the best calibration ...at the moment Im using the default calibration in my SD signal Im using (SPORT) and when Im playing PS3 or 360 Im using (VIVID),,,but I would like to have a better calibration..also the problem of stuck pixel its normal on brand new LCD ? I have only a month with the TV,,I worried about getting more stuck pixels...

Thks for your help guys
post #229 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by nightplayer View Post

thks for the tip I also found some programs that fix stuck pixel, anybody know if this system works? also no I dont know how calibrated,,I dont know if anybody can share the best calibration ...at the moment Im using the default calibration in my SD signal Im using (SPORT) and when Im playing PS3 or 360 Im using (VIVID),,,but I would like to have a better calibration..also the problem of stuck pixel its normal on brand new LCD ? I have only a month with the TV,,I worried about getting more stuck pixels...

Thks for your help guys

well i and a few others have posted our calibration settings in the thread, but i also recommend using cinema mode, it's the closest to what my calibration settings look like.

vivid and sport are by far the worst looking, vivid uses the most energy according to my kill-a-watt, while cinema uses the least, there's about a 120watt difference. (~100 or so for cinema and ~220 for vivid) even my calibration uses ~180 watts, not sure what is using the extra wattage over cinema, but i've messed with all the settings and never could get it down any lower.
post #230 of 313
thks men now Im using cinema , also the intelligent sensor looks good, its any risk on getting new stuck pixel by using my pc to run the stuck pixel fixer? thks for your help
post #231 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandito View Post

well i and a few others have posted our calibration settings in the thread, but i also recommend using cinema mode, it's the closest to what my calibration settings look like.

vivid and sport are by far the worst looking, vivid uses the most energy according to my kill-a-watt, while cinema uses the least, there's about a 120watt difference. (~100 or so for cinema and ~220 for vivid) even my calibration uses ~180 watts, not sure what is using the extra wattage over cinema, but i've messed with all the settings and never could get it down any lower.

Thanks for the info, I like to save money where possible, I'll set my tv to Cinema for lower power consumption.
post #232 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandito View Post

it's likely they won't exchange it for a couple bad pixels. you can try hooking it to your computer and using a stuck pixel fixer. or try "massaging" the pixels back to working condition.

have you had the tv calibrated? if that's sd, you're definitely stretching the image, use "set by program" instead. what's happening is sd is only 480i so when you stretch it to full screen it has to interpolate the image to fill the extra pixels. this creates blocking and a worse image than when you started really.

I try using some programs for remove the 2 red pixel with out luck,,,I read about massagin could damage more with more stuck or dead pixels..so I think I will have to live with that little pieces of SHi***T anyway thks for the tips..anybody that have the same model have the same problem??

Also wonder when you have your tv off whats your color of the screen,,because like samsung the screens panel are more clear and black,,the Lg its less bright right? also what your best solution before clean your screen leave it as new with out scratchs and marks
post #233 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by nightplayer View Post

I try using some programs for remove the 2 red pixel with out luck,,,I read about massagin could damage more with more stuck or dead pixels..so I think I will have to live with that little pieces of SHi***T anyway thks for the tips..anybody that have the same model have the same problem??

Also wonder when you have your tv off whats your color of the screen,,because like samsung the screens panel are more clear and black,,the Lg its less bright right? also what your best solution before clean your screen leave it as new with out scratchs and marks

use microfiber and water. no harsh cleaners.

as for the screen being off, i assume you're talking about it being dull? i guess you'd call it anti glare, which isn't bad. some screen i believe are more glossy, i've never paid much attention. but glossier screens will reflect more ambient light.
post #234 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandito View Post

use microfiber and water. no harsh cleaners.

as for the screen being off, i assume you're talking about it being dull? i guess you'd call it anti glare, which isn't bad. some screen i believe are more glossy, i've never paid much attention. but glossier screens will reflect more ambient light.

Thks men! for your support
post #235 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by reallyagi View Post

When tweaking grayscale, the 10IRE setting is for 10%, 20IRE is for 20%, and so on.

0%, or black, is adjusted with the brightness setting.

The white luminance is adjusted with the contrast setting.

Start with the white luminance, then proceed from 100% down to 10% and finally black or 0%. Then do it all over again.

You are right, this TV can't accurately reproduce green and yellow, as I mentioned in my old posts.

I have wanted an EyeOne colorimeter for a long time now, maybe I'll get it in a few weeks.

I get the impression, from reading posts after I posted my initial settings, that all 42LG50 tvs are very different and one cannot be used as reference.

Specially when people say the factory settings are better than mine... ??? : (

I agree, The IRE settings that you posted looked very good on my system with a few tweaks as follows.
================
BL=65
Contrast=55
Brightness=51 (cable) 52 (hd dvd)
Sharpness=45
Color=50
=================

On the contrary, Brandito's new post settings looked poor on my tv. I am not sure how to word it but watching under his settings made my eyes strain... like theres so much pressure on the display... sorry i dont know else to word it.

Reallyagi's settings are balanced and pictures are more detail. I really want to to try out Brandito's upcoming 2 poiint setting , because initially this was my setting preference.. i cant wait.. thanks again guys!
post #236 of 313
First impression

I received my 42LG50 yesterday

It is a very stylish and good looking TV, with a touch of retro styling. The image quality is really great, even out of the box and without proper calibration, when “Cinema mode” or “Expert mode” is selected. A 1080 progressive scan (p) TV with 1080p sources is really nice

I did not find dead/stuck pixels to date, thank God but I will do a proper test soon. On the other hand, the TV stand was missing some rubber discs under it, so I scotched some cardboard discs for the time being, until I can find some in a hardware store. Experience told me that everything can’t be perfect with HDTV’s, but if I have to choose between dead/stuck pixels and missing rubber discs, I choose the latter

One thing that surprised me is that unlike my 37LG30, the 42LG50 does not have a mate screen. There is some mild glare, but this is not a problem at all when watching TV, during day or night, and it is not as severe as with plasma TV’s.

Also, when I first turned on the TV, there was some pixels discoloration (some kind of white bleeding) at the top, but it went away after 5 minutes and it never came back, thank God

Quick calibration results

I did a quick calibration using DVE blu-ray, but I will do a full calibration later with my Display LT, after a 100 hours break-in period.

Even with a quick calibration, the picture looks great and the colors seem really natural, without an apparent red push. The black level is way better than that of my old 37LG30 and there is little to none backlight bleeding. The screen uniformity is also great.

HD sources look sharp and detailed, even though I found out that the picture can be a bit noisy sometimes, even when “Sharpness” is set to its correct level. But this could be due to the source itself (like natural film grain) and not the TV video processing. Setting “Noise Reduction” to “Low” or even "Medium" can clean up unnatural picture noise when it happens, without causing an apparent loss of resolution detail.

Deinterlacing is also well done with 1080 interlaced (i) sources, with a minimal "stair" and flickering effects and 720p is upscaled nicely with a minimal loss of resolution detail and sharpness.

SD sources look rather good, considering that there is an important scaling process happening when adapting 480p source to the TV 1080p native output. I chose to let the PS3 do the scaling, because I found out that the picture is sharper that way and because I can select “Just Scan” ratio mode, which is not possible when the TV does the upscaling.

The sound quality is really amazing compared to other HDTV’s, especially my old 37LG30. Dialogues are clear and the low frequencies are tight without too much distortion. I found that stereo separation and sound spatialization are exceptional for an HDTV with only stereo speakers, maybe because of the "Invisible Speakers" design from LG". On the other hand, I found out that the SRS Tru Surround XT option is not really effective as it muffs the dialogue and distorts low frequencies. Likewise, the Auto Volume and Clear Voice options are not very convincing, so I gave the audio controls to the PS3, thanks to its effective Dynamic Range Control for late movie watching.

Temporary settings in "Expert mode 1"

Backlight: 30
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 36
Sharpness: 33
Color: 64
Tint: 0
...
Fresh Contrast: Off
Noise Reduction: Off, Low or Medium depending on the source noise
Gamma: Medium
Black Level: High

Priliminary tests and findings

Full HDMI color range

The TV supports HDMI v.1.3 and Deep Color, even though there is no source available in Deep Color right now. It does not support x.v.Color, but after some tests with the video black pluge pattern of DVE blu-ray, I was pleased to find out that the 42LG50 supports HDMI (Y/Cb/Cr output) full color range (0-256) when its “Black Level” option is set to “High” and with the PS3 “Super White” option set to “On”.

When the “Black Level” option is set to “Low”, the TV clips Blacker than black (BTB) signals (it sets the black level to video black – 16 instead of 0) and it remaps (crushes) the grayscale accordingly, which is not recommended. By setting “Black Level” to “High”, brightness, contrast and backlight levels must be recalibrated.

Real Cinema

I also tested a bit of the “Real Cinema” option and I found out that it is really effective with 1080i film material. I did the test with a 1080i movie on the Movie Network HD channel.

A good way to test 3:2 pulldown is by watching its effect on the scrolling end credits of a movie. When turned to “On”, “Real Cinema” cleaned up the flickering effect in the end credits text, which was due to the conversion, by the channel provider, of a 24p source to a 60i output.

2:2 pulldown

Finally, I tested the 2:2 pulldown capability of the TV with 1080p/24Hz film material (24 frames per second). According to the TV manual, the TV outputs 48Hz with 1080p/24Hz sources, instead of doing 3:2 pulldown and outputting them at 60Hz. A good way to test 2:2 pulldown on 1080p/24Hz film material is by watching its effect on a movie scene that has a slow camera pan.

First, I found out that when fed with 480p, 720p and 1080p sources, the “Real Cinema” option is grayed out because this option is only available for interlaced sources. Then, with the “1080p/24Hz BD output” of the PS3 set to “On”, I found out that the TV effectively does 2:2 pulldown automatically, which means that it can’t do 3:2 pulldown of 1080p/24Hz sources and that it can’t display them at 60Hz. If you want movies to be displayed at 60Hz, you must set the PS3 to do a 3:2 pulldown by turning “Off” the “1080p/24Hz BD output”.

The 2:2 pulldown capability of the TV nicely eliminates “irregular” picture judder inherent to the conversion process from a 24Hz source to a 60Hz output. Watching movie is then like going to the movie theatre, where movies are displayed at 48Hz (projector shutter speed).

However, displaying movies at 48 Hz does not eliminate “regular judder” or motion blur. I refer to “regular judder” to the situation where there may not be enough images per second to make our eyes correctly interpolate movement and by motion blur to the situation where our eyes cannot correctly track the movement, due to the "sample and hold" display method of LCD TV’s (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDTV_blur and http://www.hometheatermag.com/gearworks/707gear/).

In this regard, 120Hz TV’s may be better, even if their interpolation methods can make movies look like videos (movies have to have motion blur, so they say...).
post #237 of 313
wow! excellent post MoonRabbit

very informative, gave us the low down on a few features i've been wondering about myself since i got the tv.

i've always used the high black level myself since testing with the pluge patterns in DVE. i noticed right off that i could see lower blacks with High than with Low.

i've calibrated my set with an i1 display 2 and have managed a 2.2 gamma after some work. i also used the second expert profile to make myself a good 1.95 gamma setting should i feel the need. i've gotten pretty used to the 2.2 gamma though.

if you've used the tv for a while and haven't had a way to properly set the greyscale and gamma then getting used to 2.2 gamma takes a little time i found. it's going to almost definitely be darker than you were previously used to before calibration.

i notice you're using a very high setting for color. mine is only at 42 with the CMS slightly tweaked as well. i'd like to see your results after you use your colorometer. i really wanna know if all the 42lg50's have a CIE diagram like mine. the green red and yellow are a ways off with no way i've found to really improve them.
post #238 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoonRabbit79 View Post

First impression

I received my 42LG50 yesterday

It is a very stylish and good looking TV, with a touch of retro styling. The image quality is really great, even out of the box and without proper calibration, when “Cinema mode” or “Expert mode” is selected. A 1080 progressive scan (p) TV with 1080p sources is really nice

I did not find dead/stuck pixels to date, thank God but I will do a proper test soon. On the other hand, the TV stand was missing some rubber discs under it, so I scotched some cardboard discs for the time being, until I can find some in a hardware store. Experience told me that everything can’t be perfect with HDTV’s, but if I have to choose between dead/stuck pixels and missing rubber discs, I choose the latter

One thing that surprised me is that unlike my 37LG30, the 42LG50 does not have a mate screen. There is some mild glare, but this is not a problem at all when watching TV, during day or night, and it is not as severe as with plasma TV’s.

Also, when I first turned on the TV, there was some pixels discoloration (some kind of white bleeding) at the top, but it went away after 5 minutes and it never came back, thank God

Quick calibration results

I did a quick calibration using DVE blu-ray, but I will do a full calibration later with my Display LT, after a 100 hours break-in period.

Even with a quick calibration, the picture looks great and the colors seem really natural, without an apparent red push. The black level is way better than that of my old 37LG30 and there is little to none backlight bleeding. The screen uniformity is also great.

HD sources look sharp and detailed, even though I found out that the picture can be a bit noisy sometimes, even when “Sharpness” is set to its correct level. But this could be due to the source itself (like natural film grain) and not the TV video processing. Setting “Noise Reduction” to “Low” or even "Medium" can clean up unnatural picture noise when it happens, without causing an apparent loss of resolution detail.

Deinterlacing is also well done with 1080 interlaced (i) sources, with a minimal "stair" and flickering effects and 720p is upscaled nicely with a minimal loss of resolution detail and sharpness.

SD sources look rather good, considering that there is an important scaling process happening when adapting 480p source to the TV 1080p native output. I chose to let the PS3 do the scaling, because I found out that the picture is sharper that way and because I can select “Just Scan” ratio mode, which is not possible when the TV does the upscaling.

The sound quality is really amazing compared to other HDTV’s, especially my old 37LG30. Dialogues are clear and the low frequencies are tight without too much distortion. I found that stereo separation and sound spatialization are exceptional for an HDTV with only stereo speakers, maybe because of the "Invisible Speakers" design from LG". On the other hand, I found out that the SRS Tru Surround XT option is not really effective as it muffs the dialogue and distorts low frequencies. Likewise, the Auto Volume and Clear Voice options are not very convincing, so I gave the audio controls to the PS3, thanks to its effective Dynamic Range Control for late movie watching.

Temporary settings in "Expert mode 1"

Backlight: 30
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 36
Sharpness: 33
Color: 64
Tint: 0
...
Fresh Contrast: Off
Noise Reduction: Off, Low or Medium depending on the source noise
Gamma: Medium
Black Level: High

Priliminary tests and findings

Full HDMI color range

The TV supports HDMI v.1.3 and Deep Color, even though there is no source available in Deep Color right now. It does not support x.v.Color, but after some tests with the video black pluge pattern of DVE blu-ray, I was pleased to find out that the 42LG50 supports HDMI (Y/Cb/Cr output) full color range (0-256) when its “Black Level” option is set to “High” and with the PS3 “Super White” option set to “On”.

When the “Black Level” option is set to “Low”, the TV clips Blacker than black (BTB) signals (it sets the black level to video black – 16 instead of 0) and it remaps (crushes) the grayscale accordingly, which is not recommended. By setting “Black Level” to “High”, brightness, contrast and backlight levels must be recalibrated.

Real Cinema

I also tested a bit of the “Real Cinema” option and I found out that it is really effective with 1080i film material. I did the test with a 1080i movie on the Movie Network HD channel.

A good way to test 3:2 pulldown is by watching its effect on the scrolling end credits of a movie. When turned to “On”, “Real Cinema” cleaned up the flickering effect in the end credits text, which was due to the conversion, by the channel provider, of a 24p source to a 60i output.

2:2 pulldown

Finally, I tested the 2:2 pulldown capability of the TV with 1080p/24Hz film material (24 frames per second). According to the TV manual, the TV outputs 48Hz with 1080p/24Hz sources, instead of doing 3:2 pulldown and outputting them at 60Hz. A good way to test 2:2 pulldown on 1080p/24Hz film material is by watching its effect on a movie scene that has a slow camera pan.

First, I found out that when fed with 480p, 720p and 1080p sources, the “Real Cinema” option is grayed out because this option is only available for interlaced sources. Then, with the “1080p/24Hz BD output” of the PS3 set to “On”, I found out that the TV effectively does 2:2 pulldown automatically, which means that it can’t do 3:2 pulldown of 1080p/24Hz sources and that it can’t display them at 60Hz. If you want movies to be displayed at 60Hz, you must set the PS3 to do a 3:2 pulldown by turning “Off” the “1080p/24Hz BD output”.

The 2:2 pulldown capability of the TV nicely eliminates “irregular” picture judder inherent to the conversion process from a 24Hz source to a 60Hz output. Watching movie is then like going to the movie theatre, where movies are displayed at 48Hz (projector shutter speed).

However, displaying movies at 48 Hz does not eliminate “regular judder” or motion blur. I refer to “regular judder” to the situation where there may not be enough images per second to make our eyes correctly interpolate movement and by motion blur to the situation where our eyes cannot correctly track the movement, due to the "sample and hold" display method of LCD TV’s (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDTV_blur and http://www.hometheatermag.com/gearworks/707gear/).

In this regard, 120Hz TV’s may be better, even if their interpolation methods can make movies look like videos (movies have to have motion blur, so they say...).

Nice post congratz on getting none Stuck or dead pixels like me anyway I will take some of your comments for fix my calibration,, any pics to share with us
post #239 of 313
Hi Brandito, thanks for your good words.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandito View Post

wow! excellent post MoonRabbit

if you've used the tv for a while and haven't had a way to properly set the greyscale and gamma then getting used to 2.2 gamma takes a little time i found. it's going to almost definitely be darker than you were previously used to before calibration.

By experience with my 37LG30, I've learn that because of the Display LT probe precision limitations when measuring gray levels luminance and chromacities below 30% gray level and the limitations of an LCD TV to display very dark blacks, I calculate and set my optimal 2.22 gamma at a gray level of 40% or 30%, which roughly correspond to 13.1% or 6.9% respectively of the peak luminance output at
100 % gray level (which should be between 30 and 60 ftl).

That way, I usually get a proper 2.22 gamma in the range of 40% at 70% gray level (which covers the "usual" range of movies and TV programs), even if the gamma in the range of 0% to 30% is a little bit lower and the range of 80% and up is a bit higher than 2.22.

Also, I discovered than when the "Black Level" is set to "High", the 10-points IRE calibration method settings are messed-up, in the sense that the 100 IRE setting affects a pattern of 109% gray (254 value), the 90 IRE setting affects a pattern of 100% gray (235 value) and so on.

Quote:


i notice you're using a very high setting for color. mine is only at 42 with the CMS slightly tweaked as well. i'd like to see your results after you use your colorometer. i really wanna know if all the 42lg50's have a CIE diagram like mine. the green red and yellow are a ways off with no way i've found to really improve them.

I have done a first calibration run with DVE blu-ray using the color filters, so the settings I have found for color may not be accurate nor optimal. After the 100 hours break-in period I will test the settings again with my Display LT. Usually, I let the color control at 50 and adjust the CMS controls for each color individually.
post #240 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by nightplayer View Post

Nice post congratz on getting none Stuck or dead pixels like me anyway I will take some of your comments for fix my calibration,, any pics to share with us

You should call LG for service, they are very "friendly" with their dead pixels warranty policy.

The 42LG50 is the 3rd TV I get from LG. My first one, the 32LB4D had ghost bars and they sent a technician home and they replaced it. My second one was the 37LG30 and had several dead/stuck pixels and a technician went home and they replaced it for a 42LG50, which has no dead/stuck pixels Third time's a charm LOL.
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