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official Lg 42LG50 owner's thread - Page 9

post #241 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoonRabbit79 View Post
Hi Brandito, thanks for your good words.



By experience with my 37LG30, I've learn that because of the Display LT probe precision limitations when measuring gray levels luminance and chromacities below 30% gray level and the limitations of an LCD TV to display very dark blacks, I calculate and set my optimal 2.22 gamma at a gray level of 40% or 30%, which roughly correspond to 13.1% or 6.9% respectively of the peak luminance output at
100 % gray level (which should be between 30 and 60 ftl).

That way, I usually get a proper 2.22 gamma in the range of 40% at 70% gray level (which covers the "usual" range of movies and TV programs), even if the gamma in the range of 0% to 30% is a little bit lower and the range of 80% and up is a bit higher than 2.22.

Also, I discovered than when the "Black Level" is set to "High", the 10-points IRE calibration method settings are messed-up, in the sense that the 100 IRE setting affects a pattern of 109% gray (254 value), the 90 IRE setting affects a pattern of 100% gray (235 value) and so on.



I have done a first calibration run with DVE blu-ray using the color filters, so the settings I have found for color may not be accurate nor optimal. After the 100 hours break-in period I will test the settings again with my Display LT. Usually, I let the color control at 50 and adjust the CMS controls for each color individually.
here is my calibration file to give you an idea of what i've been able to accomplish after many many iterations of calibrating.

you're absolutely right about the 40-70% gray levels though. they fall right into the 2.2 gama range pretty easily, the 30 and below are generally a bit lower in gamma, dipping to around 1.9 and the 70 and up get a little low in gamma. i've found it's just a limitation of the tv i guess. still looks much improved.

just redid my colors, went with a 52 setting for color and adjusted the cms controls from there, i based my secondaries off my primaries as this seems to be the suggested course of action. i've been using the accupel calculator to find all my measurements for secondaries and luminance for my cms and greyscale.

and yes, i too noticed that the 10 point ire settings are off when calibrating with a high black level, though i never gave much attention to the low black level.

even though they are off you can still fine tune it a lot more than the 2 point, in fact i think it's almost better they're off since it does allow you to adjust the 105% and 109% white using the 100 ire

you do have to do a lot of back and fourth though. you adjust the 50 ire for the 60% gray and also need to do a little adjusting of the 60. i started making my adjustments using the 100% white, get it to around 29 ftl or 100 Y value, higher and it's really difficult to get the gamma right. then i worked my way down. the 90 ire has no bearing on the 90% gray, same with 80 ire on 80% and down to about 70, below that and you have to kind of go back and fourth adjusting the level you're on and the one below ie for 60% you adjust 50 and 60 ire levels.

as i went along down i would get the level i was on correct with one ire lower (70% i adjusted 60 ire) then when i'd go down a notch i'd see what i could steal for that level from the same ire. so i would get my 70% right using the 60 ire, then check 60% and skip back and fourth between the 60% and 70% patterns to steal what i could in the 60 ire level for the 60% pattern without affecting the 70% pattern. then i'd go down and ire level and fine tune it. this obviously work down to about 30%. the 10-20% are very difficult because the way the 10 point ire settings are off. basically i did whatever i could to get both colors as close as possible, ignoring the luminance for the most part on those levels.

i dunno how clear i made that, just hoping i could save you some time when you get to do your set. sounds like you've had more experience than me overall though so i doubt you'll get stumped.

btw if you haven't already i suggest checking out the accupel calculator, saves time when trying to get your gamma right, gives you the Y values for each gray level based on your 100% white Y value. then you just need to adjust the green down to about the right Y value and fine tune from there.

Attachment 136849

looking forward to your results. no one else with this tv has really been overly vocal about their calibrations.

 

final expert 1 22 gamma.zip 4.294921875k . file
post #242 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoonRabbit79 View Post

You should call LG for service, they are very "friendly" with their dead pixels warranty policy.

The 42LG50 is the 3rd TV I get from LG. My first one, the 32LB4D had ghost bars and they sent a technician home and they replaced it. My second one was the 37LG30 and had several dead/stuck pixels and a technician went home and they replaced it for a 42LG50, which has no dead/stuck pixels Third time's a charm LOL.

I call Lg and they said I need to have at least 5 dead or stuck pixel together in the center of the screen for get a replace,,I told them I have some of them but in different zones of the screens and they said no replace for me...how many pixel you have in your older Tv?
post #243 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by moliva1568 View Post

This is my first LCD and I have a question. this was an "open box" purchase so i went home with it questioning every little thing. i have yet to hook up to blu ray player. I've only used the HD box for my cable and an upconverting DVD player. The DVD player seems to work well. With the cable, i notice a few things in the picture. my biggest problem is when watching certain things, it's as if the scene changes and the pictures seems really cloudy/blurry but then it clears itself up in a second or two. The image i provided is a worst case example since it's on a black screen but this is kinda what i see over the picture until it clears up. it's noticeable when right in front or at an angle (at an angle is worst). Also, when watching a NBA game on TNT HD, there seems to be a red hue that appears around the stands but then goes away. it's happened in a few games on this same channel. I don't know who to blame? The tv or the cable. When i use the HDMI upconverting DVD player i don't see this. any ideas?

FYI: I used the calibration settings i got off the posts from here.







any stuck or dead pixel?
post #244 of 313
I got this LG for almost a month and I am extremely pleased with it. I just upgraded my HTPC to go with it. I'm using and Asus P5N7A-VM (NV9300 chipset).

I've been playing around with the settings and I have a couple of questions for the experts here. I set the resolution on my HTPC to 1920x1080 60Hz, but there is an option to set the refresh to 24Hz. Should I use that instead?

Another video setting I can set on the HTPC is "Color Format". By default is RGB, but ther is also YCbCr444. Which one should I use?

Thanks.
post #245 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxHDMI View Post

I got this LG for almost a month and I am extremely pleased with it. I just upgraded my HTPC to go with it. I'm using and Asus P5N7A-VM (NV9300 chipset).

I've been playing around with the settings and I have a couple of questions for the experts here. I set the resolution on my HTPC to 1920x1080 60Hz, but there is an option to set the refresh to 24Hz. Should I use that instead?

Another video setting I can set on the HTPC is "Color Format". By default is RGB, but ther is also YCbCr444. Which one should I use?

Thanks.

When connecting the TV to your PC, you have 2 connection options:

1- RGB-PC: D-sub 15 pins (vga) cable (analog signal: RGB format)

2- HDMI (cable) : (digital signal: Y/Cb/Cr format - a way of encoding the RGB format -see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/YCbCr). If your video card does not have an HDMI connection, you can use an HDMI to DVI adaptor (HDMI to DVI-D, female to male, dual link adaptor preferably).

If you choose to connect the TV with a D-sub vga cable, choose the RGB output from your computer and if you choose the HDMI connection, choose the Y/Cb/Cr 4:4:4 output.

The 4:4:4: after Y/Cb/Cr refers to chroma subsampling which can also be applied to the RGB format (it is like a signal compression method - see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/4:2:2).

If I am not mistaken, when using a PC mode, be it with an HDMI or a VGA connection, the 42LG50 only supports 60Hz. Thus, if you play a blu-ray on your PC (1080p/24Hz), your blu-ray software player or your graphic card will likely do a 3:2 pulldown and output at 1080p/60Hz and not 1080p/48Hz.

...

I prefer the HDMI connection because it is all digital and you don't have to mess with the TV-PC settings like phase and clock.

When in PC mode, you should set the TV Black Level to High (the black level is at computer black that way). I also recommend setting Fresh Color and Fresh Contrast to Off.

If you choose the HDMI connection (with the HDMI to DVI adaptor), the only other picture settings you should adjust are : backlight, brightness, sharpness and noise reduction. I also recommend setting Gamma to Medium and White Balance to Warm.

You should not adjust Contrast, the White Balance individual 10 Points IRE controls or the Color Management System controls. (see why here : http://www.xrite.com/product_overvie...SupportID=2992).

To calibrate your TV, you will have to create an ICM color profile to be used by your graphic card, by using a probe like the i1 (Eye-One) Display LT and a software like the Eye-One Match 3 or CalMAN.
post #246 of 313
Through my HD Cable Box I have noticed that audio is louder via Component as opposed to HDMI, has anyone else noticed this?
post #247 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoonRabbit79 View Post

When connecting the TV to your PC, you have 2 connection options:

1- RGB-PC: D-sub 15 pins (vga) cable (analog signal: RGB format)

2- HDMI (cable) : (digital signal: Y/Cb/Cr format - a way of encoding the RGB format -see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/YCbCr). If your video card does not have an HDMI connection, you can use an HDMI to DVI adaptor (HDMI to DVI-D, female to male, dual link adaptor preferably).

If you choose to connect the TV with a D-sub vga cable, choose the RGB output from your computer and if you choose the HDMI connection, choose the Y/Cb/Cr 4:4:4 output.

The 4:4:4: after Y/Cb/Cr refers to chroma subsampling which can also be applied to the RGB format (it is like a signal compression method - see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/4:2:2).

If I am not mistaken, when using a PC mode, be it with an HDMI or a VGA connection, the 42LG50 only supports 60Hz. Thus, if you play a blu-ray on your PC (1080p/24Hz), your blu-ray software player or your graphic card will likely do a 3:2 pulldown and output at 1080p/60Hz and not 1080p/48Hz.

...

I prefer the HDMI connection because it is all digital and you don't have to mess with the TV-PC settings like phase and clock.

When in PC mode, you should set the TV Black Level to High (the black level is at computer black that way). I also recommend setting Fresh Color and Fresh Contrast to Off.

If you choose the HDMI connection (with the HDMI to DVI adaptor), the only other picture settings you should adjust are : backlight, brightness, sharpness and noise reduction. I also recommend setting Gamma to Medium and White Balance to Warm.

You should not adjust Contrast, the White Balance individual 10 Points IRE controls or the Color Management System controls. (see why here : http://www.xrite.com/product_overvie...SupportID=2992).

To calibrate your TV, you will have to create an ICM color profile to be used by your graphic card, by using a probe like the i1 (Eye-One) Display LT and a software like the Eye-One Match 3 or CalMAN.

Thank you very much for the detailed reply MoonRabbit79! I forgot to mention in my post that I am using a HDMI connection on my HTPC for both video and sound (this was one of the main reasons I upgraded).

I used the settings you suggested and it really made a big difference. I just kept the withe balance to medium because warm was just too "reddish" for my taste.

I don't have a BD player yet. Is the 24Hz only useful when playing BD movies or does it apply to other type of media files?
post #248 of 313
Ok, so I tried to set the refresh rate on my htpc to 24Hz and the TV detected it correctly and reports 1080p24 when I press the Enter button on the remote.

I watched few tv shows I had (AVI, Xvid and MKV h264) which Media Player Classic Homecinema reported to be 23.98fps. I also tried a couple of movies on DVD.

It worked well and there was no flickering or tearing, but I didn't notice any noticeable difference with the default 1080p60 settings.

At least it looks like the 42LG50 is capable of using 1080p24 without problems.

Max
post #249 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxHDMI View Post

Ok, so I tried to set the refresh rate on my htpc to 24Hz and the TV detected it correctly and reports 1080p24 when I press the Enter button on the remote.

I watched few tv shows I had (AVI, Xvid and MKV h264) which Media Player Classic Homecinema reported to be 23.98fps. I also tried a couple of movies on DVD.

It worked well and there was no flickering or tearing, but I didn't notice any noticeable difference with the default 1080p60 settings.

At least it looks like the 42LG50 is capable of using 1080p24 without problems.

Max

That's great!

I thought the TV could only do 60Hz with a PC

To see the difference, try a DVD movie with a scene that has a slow camera pan and try 60Hz and 24Hz and you should see a little difference : it should be smoother in 24Hz (TV outputs at 48Hz) with less judders.

You are lucky, you will be able to play DVDs at 24Hz, my PS3 can't do that yet, it only plays blu-rays at 24Hz
post #250 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoonRabbit79 View Post

That's great!

I thought the TV could only do 60Hz with a PC

To see the difference, try a DVD movie with a scene that has a slow camera pan and try 60Hz and 24Hz and you should see a little difference : it should be smoother in 24Hz (TV outputs at 48Hz) with less judders.

You are lucky, you will be able to play DVDs at 24Hz, my PS3 can't do that yet, it only plays blu-rays at 24Hz

I did more tests and the 24Hz only work when using HDMI. If I use the VGA input, the screen goes black unless I set it to 60Hz (wich makes sense).
post #251 of 313
I'm having trouble programming the remote to my cable box. When I try to put it in programming mode it's not working. The STB button doesn't stay lit. Is there a way to reset the remote?
post #252 of 313
i have an 42lg50 LCD, and i have a panasonic bd35 blu-ray player

i have HDMI from player to tv and optical out from tv to reciever, the reciever can not do DD true HD, or DTS MA.

i have one blu ray that is DTS HD it will not downconvert to DTS 5.1

why does dolby true hd downconvert but not DTS MA?
post #253 of 313
Hi,

I began to calibrate my 42LG50 with my i1 display LT and ColorHCFR. I have a PS3 and I use AVS HD 709 v.1.2. I wanted to do some tests before doing the full 10-point IRE and CMS calibration, by adjusting only the contrast and the brightness to assess the gamma curve.

The default expert mode was giving me a gamma curve too low (1.8), with a high gamma drop in the range 60% to 100% gray (too much contrast). I then adjusted the contrast down and the brightness accordingly. This gave me a nice gamma curve near 2.22 and a light ouput of 35 ftl at 100% gray.

The problem is : I exited my calibration DVD and then played it again and I did a grayscale reading again with ColorHCFR. With the same settings, everything was messed up

The gamma curve was not what I had obtained before and was worse that what gave me the default expert mode. The gamma curve was then at 1.6. Also, the light output a 100% gray was then at 29 ftl Also, I found out that when adjusting contrast and then selecting 10-points IRE method instead of the 2-points method, light ouput changed a bit, which is not normal.

It seems like the TV was reajusting something, maybe the EyeCare option (even if it is not explicitely present in expert mode) or wathever setting that messed up the gamma in the range 60% to 100%.

I did some test with the cinema mode and there were no problems like the ones I experienced with expert mode.

Can someone help me? Have you experienced the same problem with inconsistent TV settings?
post #254 of 313
what i did was get the ftl at 100% white to around 29ftl, then used the 10 point ire settings to adjust the gamma the rest of the way.

raising and lowering the level of green will greatly lower or raise your game for each ire setting, then you just adjust the red and blue accordingly to get your x and y values in line.

also use the high gamma setting, it seems to be the easiest to get a 2.22 gamma with, medium i managed a 2.2 i think, but it wasn't easy.

i'm also using the high black level.

one thing i did notice is at certain contrast settings i'd have my ftl at 100% white where i wanted it, then i'd adjust the 90 ire (to get 100% white's x and y values correct) and as soon as i'd change my red value, the tv would brighten up a LOT. i had to fiddle with the contrast and gamma setting until i figured out 29ftl is about the sweet spot for calibrating the tv without a great deal of trouble.

if you want i can copy down my newest calibration settings and you can see how they fair on your tv, i'm sure your greyscale will differ from mine in the end, but they should be fairly close i'd say.
post #255 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandito View Post

what i did was get the ftl at 100% white to around 29ftl, then used the 10 point ire settings to adjust the gamma the rest of the way.

raising and lowering the level of green will greatly lower or raise your game for each ire setting, then you just adjust the red and blue accordingly to get your x and y values in line.

also use the high gamma setting, it seems to be the easiest to get a 2.22 gamma with, medium i managed a 2.2 i think, but it wasn't easy.

i'm also using the high black level.

one thing i did notice is at certain contrast settings i'd have my ftl at 100% white where i wanted it, then i'd adjust the 90 ire (to get 100% white's x and y values correct) and as soon as i'd change my red value, the tv would brighten up a LOT. i had to fiddle with the contrast and gamma setting until i figured out 29ftl is about the sweet spot for calibrating the tv without a great deal of trouble.

if you want i can copy down my newest calibration settings and you can see how they fair on your tv, i'm sure your greyscale will differ from mine in the end, but they should be fairly close i'd say.


Ok, so you had the same problem? Do you think it is a firmware bug? So I have to adjust the green balance in the 10 points IRE calibration to adjust the overall contrast level where I want to, without directly setting the overall contrast setting (normally green balance should be at 0...)?

I mean, to explain more clearly the problem:

1- I take a 100% gray pattern : light output reading is 35ftl at expert 1 default (contrast at 90).
2- I lower the contrast a bit (say 85): light output reading is now 30 ftl.
3- I exit the DVD and re-enter it or I change picture mode and come back to expert 1 and the light output at 100% gray is then 25ftl with the same contrast setting.

The same thing happens in reverse when increasing the contrast :

1- I take a 100% gray pattern : light output reading is 35ftl at expert 1 default (contrast at 90).
2- I increase the contrast a bit (say 95): light output reading is now 40 ftl.
3- I exit the DVD and re-enter it or I change picture mode and come back to expert 1 and the light output at 100% gray is then 45ftl with the same contrast setting.

I think there is some kind of automatic picture adjustment that is made by the TV in expert mode that constantly readjuts the contrast setting (it is not the fresh contrast option because I set it to off) or set it back to some kind of default setting.

I don't have the problem when calibrating in cinema mode.

Is there a firmware update for the TV?

I will contact LG about it and in the mean time I will calibrate in cinema mode, which is sad because I would not be able to ajust the grayscale or CMS
post #256 of 313
there could be a firmware update, but you need a special cable to update it i believe. i registered mine with LG in hopes that any problems they address i'll be notified of and i haven't heard anything.

it may be a firmware bug maybe.

what i do is set my 90 and 100 ire's to all 0's, then adjust the contrast and brightness so my black level is fine and my 100% grey pattern is around 29ftl. then i go in and fine tune my ire's starting at 90 to adjust the 100% grey, maybe add some green to boost the overall contrast a bit. as long as i don't see the screen go extra dark suddenly or extra bright everything is generally fine.

i then work my way down the ire's to 10% grey adjusting green up or down for each one so that each 10% increment is about where it needs to be for gamma. then i adjust the red and blue to get the proper x and y values, sometimes you have to readjust the green again and whatever it takes to get the proper xyY values for each grey pattern.

gamma will curve down near 30-0% grey though, not much you can do about that with this tv it seems. i've heard it suggested that this may be the intended curve for our tv's in order for them to look their best.

also when i get near the 20-10% grey levels i'm very careful that i view the tv from wide angles to make sure i don't get reddish blacks, or off colored blacks in general, the 10ire setting is very crucial here. i've actually noticed that the tv will show weird black rectangles in a 3 row by 2 row pattern on the tv, very odd, this usually occurs when the contrast jumps wildly like you mentioned. next time you see it jump up real bright, look in the black area of the pattern at a wide angle and you may see them too.

i'm not sure what causes all this, from the sounds of things you've calibrated more tvs than i have, this is my first, but i've spent at least a good 24 hours calibrating, tweaking, recalibrating and so on to get where i am now.

i'd love to know how your primaries and secondaries came out btw, could you post up a chc file after you've dialed everything in? my primaries are a lot more off than would seem acceptable with no apparent way of getting them much better. it's mostly green and red that are holding everything up.

it was a pain calibrating it to a point where the contrast level didn't jump, the blacks didn't get reddish at wide angles and i didn't see the boxing in full black. thrown in the fact that each channel i get on directv is using different levels of black and you have to make some compromises for broadcast tv and your dvd's/bd's.

i'd try adjusting things in cinema mode, but you get no higher level calibrating unless you use expert mode.
post #257 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandito View Post

there could be a firmware update, but you need a special cable to update it i believe. i registered mine with LG in hopes that any problems they address i'll be notified of and i haven't heard anything.

it may be a firmware bug maybe.

what i do is set my 90 and 100 ire's to all 0's, then adjust the contrast and brightness so my black level is fine and my 100% grey pattern is around 29ftl. then i go in and fine tune my ire's starting at 90 to adjust the 100% grey, maybe add some green to boost the overall contrast a bit. as long as i don't see the screen go extra dark suddenly or extra bright everything is generally fine.

i then work my way down the ire's to 10% grey adjusting green up or down for each one so that each 10% increment is about where it needs to be for gamma. then i adjust the red and blue to get the proper x and y values, sometimes you have to readjust the green again and whatever it takes to get the proper xyY values for each grey pattern.

gamma will curve down near 30-0% grey though, not much you can do about that with this tv it seems. i've heard it suggested that this may be the intended curve for our tv's in order for them to look their best.

also when i get near the 20-10% grey levels i'm very careful that i view the tv from wide angles to make sure i don't get reddish blacks, or off colored blacks in general, the 10ire setting is very crucial here. i've actually noticed that the tv will show weird black rectangles in a 3 row by 2 row pattern on the tv, very odd, this usually occurs when the contrast jumps wildly like you mentioned. next time you see it jump up real bright, look in the black area of the pattern at a wide angle and you may see them too.

i'm not sure what causes all this, from the sounds of things you've calibrated more tvs than i have, this is my first, but i've spent at least a good 24 hours calibrating, tweaking, recalibrating and so on to get where i am now.

i'd love to know how your primaries and secondaries came out btw, could you post up a chc file after you've dialed everything in? my primaries are a lot more off than would seem acceptable with no apparent way of getting them much better. it's mostly green and red that are holding everything up.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandito View Post

what i do is set my 90 and 100 ire's to all 0's, then adjust the contrast and brightness so my black level is fine and my 100% grey pattern is around 29ftl. then i go in and fine tune my ire's starting at 90 to adjust the 100% grey, maybe add some green to boost the overall contrast a bit. as long as i don't see the screen go extra dark suddenly or extra bright everything is generally fine.

I know what you mean, but I can't adjust the overall contrast (default 90) to calibrate, because it reverts itself back to its original value, even if the value of the setting is set lower (say 80) or higher (say 100). That's the bug I'm talking about for my TV.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandito View Post

i'd love to know how your primaries and secondaries came out btw, could you post up a chc file after you've dialed everything in? my primaries are a lot more off than would seem acceptable with no apparent way of getting them much better. it's mostly green and red that are holding everything up.

I will post tomorrow my chc file for cinema mode and for expert mode at default and after adjusting contrast lower, which will show the bug.
post #258 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoonRabbit79 View Post

I know what you mean, but I can't adjust the overall contrast (default 90) to calibrate, because it reverts itself back to its original value, even if the value of the setting is set lower (say 80) or higher (say 100). That's the bug I'm talking about for my TV.




I will post tomorrow my chc file for cinema mode and for expert mode at default and after adjusting contrast lower, which will show the bug.

what gamma setting are you using in the menu?
post #259 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandito View Post

what gamma setting are you using in the menu?

I was trying with the medium setting, but even though my gamma curve has the right shape, it is below 2.22 (around 2.09). So I will try the high setting.
post #260 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoonRabbit79 View Post

I was trying with the medium setting, but even though my gamma curve has the right shape, it is below 2.22 (around 2.09). So I will try the high setting.

i think you'll have less trouble with high.
post #261 of 313
i have the same problem with my lg50, but only in user or expert mode and hdmi 3 dont save my backlight settings keeps always in 22 after turn on the tv... sorry, english is not my native language, but i do my best.
post #262 of 313
I found out what was the problem.

Well, it is not really a problem or a bug with the TV, but rather a really poor implementation of the 10-points IRE calibration controls of the experts mode.

In short, in the experts mode, brightness and contrast must be set IRE point by IRE point (10 in total) by adjusting their green balance and then adjusting the red and blue balances accordingly to have the right gamma curve. Adjusting the overall contrast or brightness controls messes up things and enters in conflict with the individual IRE controls.

For example, if I adjust brightness and contrast with the global controls and do a reading with my Display LT, things will be fine at first, because the default values (0) of the IRE controls seems to move accordingly with them.

Then if I turn off the TV and turn it on again and do the readings again, I will not have the same results because the TV reverts back the default (0) IRE controls to their original values (that is, without the previous effect of the overall brightness and contrast adjustment).

I did test and I don't have these problems when I only adjust these settings :
-Backlight
-Sharpness
-Gamma
-Color
-Tint

I did another test where I decreased the green balance of the 100 IRE control, to decrease the contrast at 100% gray, and there was no difference in readings before and after turning on and off the TV. If then I decreased the global brightness or contrast control, things were messing up again.

So, calibration will be very very long as I will have to adjust the contrast/brightness for each IRE point to have in the end the right gamma curve and also to have the right chromatic coordinates (0.313/0.329)
post #263 of 313
This is my chc file for the default expert picture mode 1. Not bad out-of-the-box. Delta 76 and Delta 94 (which I calculated) are below 10 in general. The only thing, gamma seems too high in the range 50% to 90% gray.

 

42LG50 expert default.zip 4.7109375k . file
post #264 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoonRabbit79 View Post

This is my chc file for the default expert picture mode 1. Not bad out-of-the-box. Delta 76 and Delta 94 (which I calculated) are below 10 in general. The only thing, gamma seems too high in the range 50% to 90% gray.

wow, your color chart is spot on! i wonder what's up with my set? that's how it lined up with factory settings? that's amazing, well to me.

i wonder if i have a faulty set? i can't get my primaries to line up like that no matter what it seems.

and yeah, i just assumed that's how contrast and brightness might work during calibration, especially with a 10point adjustment.

i'm really mad now to see other people getting their primaries and secondaries so spot on while mine are seriously lacking in adjustability.
post #265 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandito View Post

wow, your color chart is spot on! i wonder what's up with my set? that's how it lined up with factory settings? that's amazing, well to me.

i wonder if i have a faulty set? i can't get my primaries to line up like that no matter what it seems.

and yeah, i just assumed that's how contrast and brightness might work during calibration, especially with a 10point adjustment.

i'm really mad now to see other people getting their primaries and secondaries so spot on while mine are seriously lacking in adjustability.

What do you get with the default expert picture mode?

This could be due to the source (what player do you use?)

Or maybe the colorimter (I use a i1 Display LT).
post #266 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoonRabbit79 View Post

What do you get with the default expert picture mode?

This could be due to the source (what player do you use?)

Or maybe the colorimter (I use a i1 Display LT).

i use the same colorometer and i use a panasonic bd35 bluray player.

i can't get the colors to shift no matter what.
post #267 of 313
hi guys here some pics of my stuck or dead pixel from my brand new LG 42LG50,just 1 month using the TV,,, I cant return the to the store because, the garanty time all ready expire...and LG dont want to fix it ..they said I need 10 or more dead or stuck pixel...

2 read pixel

3 black pixel

1 white pixel ) if you get very close you can see 2 more but not very bright ( very small pixels)









sorry for my english its not my main language
post #268 of 313
hey moonrabbit79 , can you post your setting please , lg50 latin american model dosent have usb input.....
post #269 of 313
Anyone else having "lip sync" issues with this TV? It's especially noticeable with local stations' HD broadcasts. We haven't yet looked into possible issues with our cable box (Comcast), with which we are using an HDMI connection to the 42LG50.

We're otherwise pretty happy with this TV, which we've had for about 3 months.
post #270 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maikeer View Post

Anyone else having "lip sync" issues with this TV? It's especially noticeable with local stations' HD broadcasts. We haven't yet looked into possible issues with our cable box (Comcast), with which we are using an HDMI connection to the 42LG50.

We're otherwise pretty happy with this TV, which we've had for about 3 months.

are you possibly running audio out to a receiver from the tv? that is the one time i had lip sync issues. in my case it was from running my directv receiver into the tv, then running optical audio out to my home theater in a box.

when i ran audio directly from the dtv box to the home theater lip sync issues went away.

of course i also have never used the tv's speakers, so i'm probably not the best judge.
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