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2008 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (735/736 and diamond) - Page 100

post #2971 of 3012
gsr, will be ordering new lamp soon. and get my 3d kit.
post #2972 of 3012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel Murray View Post

Dose any one know if my 65835 is HDCP. My Nvidia 435m says my TV is not HDCP and I think it is.
I can not play Blu-ray or 3D Blu-ray on my TV with my new Dell XPS Laptop.

AFAIK, yes. Are you sending the PC's HDMI output through a receiver? If so, try connecting it directly to the TV and try running the check again. Something else to consider is getting yourself a copy of AnyDVD HD which will take care of all the copy protection nonsense and generally make your Blu-ray experience a LOT more pleasant on the PC. AnyDVD HD isn't cheap, but is well worth the investment.
post #2973 of 3012
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsr View Post

AFAIK, yes. Are you sending the PC's HDMI output through a receiver? If so, try connecting it directly to the TV and try running the check again. Something else to consider is getting yourself a copy of AnyDVD HD which will take care of all the copy protection nonsense and generally make your Blu-ray experience a LOT more pleasant on the PC. AnyDVD HD isn't cheap, but is well worth the investment.

I do have it going right to the TV with HDMI. I already have a very good blu-ray player but I did not want to buy a new one for 3D.
How Much dose AnyDVD cost? It would suck if I have to buy that when my new laptop should work right out of the box from Dell.
post #2974 of 3012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel Murray View Post
I do have it going right to the TV with HDMI. I already have a very good blu-ray player but I did not want to buy a new one for 3D.
How Much dose AnyDVD cost? It would suck if I have to buy that when my new laptop should work right out of the box from Dell.
AnyDVD HD purchase page. There's a 30 day free evaluation available so you try it out before buying it. Look around in the HTPC forum and you'll find that it's pretty much universally recommended as a must-have for HTPC users.
post #2975 of 3012
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsr View Post

AnyDVD HD purchase page. There's a 30 day free evaluation available so you try it out before buying it. Look around in the HTPC forum and you'll find that it's pretty much universally recommended as a must-have for HTPC users.

Thank you for your help!
It sucks that with a new laptop I still need to buy software for something that should have just worked.
post #2976 of 3012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel Murray View Post
Thank you for your help!
It sucks that with a new laptop I still need to buy software for something that should have just worked.
Not really. In theory, within the US, it is still illegal to rip BDs. You are allowed, I think to make copies for your own use, but best of luck defending that in court....

On the other side, I do agree with you that, like making DVD copies now, making BD ones should be easier. But I can also tell you that it is a lot easier now than it was when this stuff first started.

Seggers
post #2977 of 3012
Quote:
Originally Posted by seggers View Post
Not really. In theory, within the US, it is still illegal to rip BDs. You are allowed, I think to make copies for your own use, but best of luck defending that in court....

On the other side, I do agree with you that, like making DVD copies now, making BD ones should be easier. But I can also tell you that it is a lot easier now than it was when this stuff first started.
He didn't say anything about ripping BD's, just playing them presumably with software such as ArcSoft Total Media Theater or PowerDVD. Certainly nothing even remotely questionable about that, but people still sometimes run into weird HDCP issues even trying to do something that's perfectly legal. AnyDVD HD almost always resolves those problems (and yes, makes other things possible too).
post #2978 of 3012
I had my WD-73735 calibrated yesterday and I have to say I'm very very impressed with the results
I have had the TV for about a year and a half now and have never thought the HD looked as good as I thought it should. The whites were always washed out and the blacks way to black to the point you couldn't see any detail in dark scenes. I tried all the things you could do in the TV menu but nothing helped.
Sooooo I finally decided to find a calibrator to see what they could do.
Well I found a guy that doesn't live far from me and contacted him to see what he could do. Well I have to say that I am totally amazed))
I never knew an HD TV could look sooo good. The colors and detail are totally amazing. The whites are white with no silk screen look and the black are black and you can still see all the detail in dark scenes. And the depth of the picture is totally amazing. The picture almost looks 3D and I know what 3D looks like on it because I have all the equipment to watch 3D on the TV and have watched a few 3D movies on it. I haven't yet watched one since the calibration but can't wait too.

As far as the Calibrator I used I have to say I'm extremely impressed with him and his work.
He told me everything he was doing all the way through the process and why he was doing it and what it did.
He kept showing me on his laptop what he was doing and showing me the changes and what they did.
He switch back to the Fios input now and then to see how things look and I have to say each time I was impressed with the picture but he kept doing more and more adjustments. I was impressed looking at the picture after 3 hours but then he worked hours more because he knew it could be even better and he was right. When he was finally done I was totally blown away

So if anyone needs and excellent calibrator that tells you everything he's doing and why and you end up with a picture that you never even belived
your TV could produce you need to contact:

Don McLaughlin
http://www.pvcalibrations.com/
post #2979 of 3012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black2002ws6 View Post

I had my WD-73735 calibrated yesterday and I have to say I'm very very impressed with the results...........

So if anyone needs and excellent calibrator that tells you everything he's doing and why and you end up with a picture that you never even belived
your TV could produce you need to contact:

Don McLaughlin
http://www.pvcalibrations.com/

Thanks Carl. It was a pleasure working withyou. I'm glad to have had the opportunity to enhance your home theater viewing environment.
post #2980 of 3012
Superbowl Sunday! My biggest fear is my bulb dying in the middle of the game. How fast can a bulb be swapped out?
post #2981 of 3012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geezer View Post
Superbowl Sunday! My biggest fear is my bulb dying in the middle of the game. How fast can a bulb be swapped out?
If you have a new bulb on hand, it takes about 30 seconds if you have the casing with the bulb. Or about 3 minutes if you have to remove the old bulb and put the new bulb into the existing casing. The casing itself, just slides right out with the removal of a couple of screws.
post #2982 of 3012
Yeah...took me longer to get behind the tv than to actually do the swap-out last time I did it. Pretty easy thankfully.
post #2983 of 3012
Thread Starter 
Has anyone attempted to calibraite - say the "bright mode" for 3D use???

Clearly the 3D has a huge green push (grey looks green) when going through the Mits Converter box.

My setup is

Xbox/PS3/HTPC WMC7->onkyo 608 -> Mits box -> 73736

Thanks!
post #2984 of 3012
Can anyone tell me how to set my default picture mode? Each time the set turns on, it defaults to "Brilliant" picture mode. I change it to "Natural" but the setting doesn't stick when the unit gets turned off. I got Natural to be my default setting once before, but when we lost power to the house that somehow got reset, and I can't figure out how to get it back to that as the default. TIA.
post #2985 of 3012
IIRC I saw somthing like this when I had the name for the HDMI input named AVR, it also changed my other video settings whenever the set was turned on. I changed the name to something else and didn't have the problem anymore.
post #2986 of 3012
Quote:
Originally Posted by NavinRJohnson View Post

Can anyone tell me how to set my default picture mode? Each time the set turns on, it defaults to "Brilliant" picture mode. I change it to "Natural" but the setting doesn't stick when the unit gets turned off. I got Natural to be my default setting once before, but when we lost power to the house that somehow got reset, and I can't figure out how to get it back to that as the default. TIA.

Sounds like you need to do the AVR set-up. It is in your manual and if you search this thread there was alot of discussion on this about a year ago.
post #2987 of 3012
Thanks. I've read and re-read chapter 5 and page 39-48 on setting up inputs and picture modes. My HDMI-1 input is now named "AVR" and after changing that name, I've gone into the Video menu and set the picture mode to Natural. This does not cause my choice of Natural as the picture mode to be retained after the power is cycled to the TV.

I searched the forums and do see reports from others around 1-2 years ago of experiencing this issue, but I do not see any responses that address the answer. Can you point me to something more specific?
post #2988 of 3012
Navin,

I think it came down to changing the names away from the defaults. Try chnaging them back and see if that makes any difference.

Seggers
post #2989 of 3012
Quote:
Originally Posted by swak View Post

Sounds like you need to do the AVR set-up. It is in your manual and if you search this thread there was alot of discussion on this about a year ago.

The "Settings and Tweaks" thread is where the solution can be found.

Here you go, http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...&postcount=475
post #2990 of 3012
Having trouble with the picuture jittering. I've looked through the thread and have tried to search but haven't found anything that looks like my problem or a solution. My 65736 is really doing this mostly during the basketball tournament. It's like watching the picutre and then it just kind of jumps or jitters but it's doing it quite often. Does this sound familiar and any ideas on how to correct? I love this tv, but it's really driving me nuts.

Thanks.
post #2991 of 3012
Has anyone changed their bulb lately. How did you reset the lamp timer?
post #2992 of 3012
Unplug the TV waite 15min. Then plug it back in.
post #2993 of 3012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel Murray View Post

Unplug the TV waite 15min. Then plug it back in.

Thanks.
post #2994 of 3012
Looking to take baby steps on going 3D on my 65735. Are the Panasonic Blu Ray players the only output devices I can get without buying an emitter, i.e., are they the only devices that do checkerboard? Yes, I know I'll need glasses as well. But I have D* and I don't think I'll spend the money just yet on the converter and/or adapter.
post #2995 of 3012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deezul View Post

Looking to take baby steps on going 3D on my 65735. Are the Panasonic Blu Ray players the only output devices I can get without buying an emitter, i.e., are they the only devices that do checkerboard? Yes, I know I'll need glasses as well. But I have D* and I don't think I'll spend the money just yet on the converter and/or adapter.

The Panasonic Bluray players are the only devices I'm aware of other than a HTPC that will output Checkerboard. The HTPC would need an appropriate graphics card and Bluray player software that supports Checkerboard (ArcSoft TMT does and I think PowerDVD does too). With anything else, you would need Mitsubishi's 3DA-1 format converter.

The need for a 3D IR emitter is a separate issue - you either need DLP Link 3D glasses OR a Mitsubishi compatible 3D emitter and IR 3D glasses.
post #2996 of 3012
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsr View Post

The Panasonic Bluray players are the only devices I'm aware of other than a HTPC that will output Checkerboard. The HTPC would need an appropriate graphics card and Bluray player software that supports Checkerboard (ArcSoft TMT does and I think PowerDVD does too). With anything else, you would need Mitsubishi's 3DA-1 format converter.

The need for a 3D IR emitter is a separate issue - you either need DLP Link 3D glasses OR a Mitsubishi compatible 3D emitter and IR 3D glasses.

That's what I thought. Baby steps. Amazon has the 110 Blu Ray player plus Avatar 3D for $130. Since the combo pack of Tron Legacy also includes the movie in 3D and the original, and Tron is my favorite movie, I thought it would be a good time to make that leap. I can then take my time with the glasses if I don't get a few pairs immediately.
post #2997 of 3012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deezul View Post

That's what I thought. Baby steps. Amazon has the 110 Blu Ray player plus Avatar 3D for $130.

Avatar 3D is typically selling on ebay for >$100, so you could look at it as getting the Bluray player for free . Thanks for the tip - I'm going to buy the player so I can get a free copy of Avatar 3D and sell the player on ebay as I've already got a 3D Bluray player (see my signature).
post #2998 of 3012
Hi all, I'm looking at one of the 60735 for my bedroom. It's used and The guy wants me to make him an offer. I was wondering if anyone had any advise as to what these are worth used.

The only thing I have to go on is my 73837 that I just picked up used for $700. It had 5000 hours on the bulb so I picked up another: total $775.

I'm kinda thinking around $200-$250. The 735 is a year older, is 13" smaller and has none of the bells and whistles.

Any thoughts?
post #2999 of 3012
Anyone have a Mac Mini hooked up to your Mitsu? I'm considering one for my 73736.
post #3000 of 3012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel Murray View Post

Unplug the TV waite 15min. Then plug it back in.

I changed the lamp on my Mits 65736 today. I unplugged and waited for more than 20min. I plugged it back in, turn on the TV and checked the lamp hours, it did not reset. It's still showing the old hours. I call Mits CR for help and I was told the hours on my model cannot be reset. Is that true. Anyone has any suggestions?
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