The Official 9G Pioneer General Discussion Thread - Page 245

Sorry to have wasted so much Forum energy and space.....lol.

I was just thinking in 6 or 7 months my Sony's may be bricks anyway, if so, I'll just go get the Tivo and a couple of 500Gb drives. One source with two tuners that stores all I need and only needs one HDMI input.

Thanks for your help.

Back to Kuro talk.....

Amen, but the studios want to control all their content, down to making you pay everytime you watch/view/listen.................. if they could get away with it!!! You won't own it anymore, you will lease it. They will own it, you'll just have a leased copy via whatever medium its recorded to.

John

is your br player capable of and if so do you have it set to output 1080p 24hz?

I'm ready to finally get the 151. I would however, like to view it before I buy it. I know that stores use different settings, etc to display it... Since this'll be my first Pioneer, could anyone guide me as to what settings I should use to view it in the store? Just to make sure I am viewing it in all its glory...

I mostly watch HD content and will be bringing a few of my bluray discs with me.
Thanks

hey d nice or other members... Do you guys keep room sensor mostly on or off.. And do most of you use the optimum setting or the movie setting for some sort of reason i find myself using th performance setting..

ohh and guys how important is using a power conditioner if u have a av receiver, blue ray and pioneer 5020.. I have a older power bar that i was using with my older 42 inch panny should u upgrade to a better power conditoar.. does this really provide better sound and pq...

Most importantly a good conditioner like those from Richard Gray will protect your equipment from dirty power which will shorten its life. And every city has dirty power!

That may be what that Sony source device is doing (although I doubt it). But that is defintely not a general rule. Most devices definitely do not behave that way. Source devices usually either enable HDCP or they don't. Depending on the type of content. And the source devices usually don't care much whether the display supports HDCP or not. E.g. DVD players, HD DVD players and Blu-Ray players usually always activate HDCP (they have to due to the DVD/Blu-Ray license agreements). But external media players which play unprotected content (e.g. something.avi) don't usually activate HDCP. Also satellite receivers here in Germany activate HDCP if the TV station requires it, but don't activate HDCP for free to air TV stations.


Correct.

can my power bar if i have to many things hooked up to it cause inteference and stuff.. when u have a pionneer 5020 yamaha rxv1400 ps3 and hd direct tv tivo would i need soemthing bigger than monster power bar..

so guys do you usually use the remote light sensor on and off

I have just ordered a HT setup for the new home, the display being a 9th gen Kuro. Here is a link to a review of the display. I will actually be getting the 5090 not the 5090h, the major difference being that the 5090 lacks an integrated MPEG 4 HD tuner (something i wasn't needing).

But for all those members in Europe, I will be calibrating and giving feedback. My prior setup in the US was a Panny 50PZ700u, which I had ISF calibrated and did much critical viewing at night with BR discs via a PS3. So I will have some thoughts on comparisons. The PZ700u was the best PQ I have ever been privy to in my home.

The 5090 is similiar to the 5020 except it has some of the Elite features since there is no Elite in Europe. Exactly which ones I am not sure, but I know for one thing that the "picture enhancements" are defeatable and there is extensive calibration options in the settings menu.

I will be using DVE Blu ray basics calibration BR disc and my "eye" to calibrate the set. While not as accurate as equipment, these sets are so good out of the box, plus I feel that since my eyes will be doing the viewing that my eyes will do for the calibration.

Very excited to be joining the Kuro club, a club I have wanted to join for some time now.

I was keeping up with all the info on this thread, but been too busy at work lately..... I was hoping somebody here could help me out. I'm ready to buy something now.

I'm looking to buy 2 50 inch TV's..... I originally was going to buy the Panny 800U's.... but with all the flicker complaints in 24hz, I decided to wait for the reviews on the PDP-5020FD.

I have two questions...... Are there any flicker (or whatever its called) problems in the 24hz mode on the Pioneer ?? Also, I seem to recall a lot of complaints of last years model with Buzzing noise.... I HATE buzzing noises.... did that issue get worked out with this years 5020 model ??

Thanks a million to anyone who helps me out !!

The buzzing issue seems to be hit and miss, varying from set to set. There does seem to be a lot less reporting of buzz on the 50 in. models compared to the 60 in. models. There is a thread dedicated to 9G buzz reports:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1044254

I've only read one account of somebody experiencing flicker on a 9G, so I don't think this is a universal problem by any means. Compared to an 800U, I think you will be amazed at how much better the motion processing is on a kuro - very clean and fluid imagery.

If you haven't already read DNice's review of the 6020 on the first page (2nd post) of this thread, I would encourage you to do so. He even compares it to an 800U which you should find helpful. IMO, it is absolutely a no-brainer - the 5020 will spank the 800U in just about every respect.

I recommend power protection highly, as well. There are also performance benefits to be had. I heard an audible difference in my turntable with/without a conditioner; the sound was cleaner with, grungy without. Perhaps one with voltage regulation also, to keep the 120v constant; not only can power be dirty, but voltage levels fluctuate also, and I don't think that makes AV equipment too happy either.

I have a UPS on order, to which I plan to connect my TV (when I buy it), as well as my new computer.

Crap! I don't check in on this thread in a couple of days and I miss out on some really key info. No SR+ connection on the 151FD? Are you kidding me??? That stinks...big time.

I've been strongly considering one of the new Pioneer AVRs (the SC-07) primarily BECAUSE of the supposed tightly integrated features. According to the SC-07 manual, the SR+ cable is supposed to be able to provide not only the OSD of volume, but other information as well such as MCACC setup info and surround mode info.

I did read where D-Nice said volume was available over HDMI, but what about the rest? What about OSD over HDMI while pushing 1080p/24? I simply can't believe after all the hype about Pioneer's efforts to have all their Elite products be well-integrated with each other, the consumer is left with a situation as frvega2000 has described above.

Let's see...where did I put that link to Denon's site?

FYI: CNet's review of the 5020 is up: http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-t...-33002523.html.

Dirty (noisy) power, spikes or brown-outs can obviously be problematic if they are common in your environment.
Small line voltage variations in reaction to loading at different times of the day are not really a problem for the switching supplies used in modern CE components.

Most quality UPS do a fair job at filtering and giving you some protection during brown-outs as well as outages.
Outage protection is most beneficial for recording devices, especially hard disk like PCs, DVRs, etc. But there is some support for using it for lamp protection for projectors displays, etc. and maybe it has similar benefit for plasma.
For outage protection for the above devices, you do not want anything that will remove power during huge transitions, but rather absorb it or switch to back up power.

For other electronics, the best protection may well be opening a circuit. After all, the ultimate protection is no connection.

My only point being you should be aware of your immediate AC environment, the equipment you are using, and what you want to achieve in order to make a wise choice. There is no reason to spend a lot of money unless your needs require it.

This is most easy to do after a power outage. Research at SRI (Stanford Research Institute) in collaboration with major power suppliers across the country, indicated that the greatest risk of power surges occur when the power comes back on. Of course, any time there is lightning in the area, an open circuit is a very good idea.

If an organization like Enron is in control of your areas power supply, then maybe a line conditioner/UPS to protect against brown outs is a good idea.

For almost all normal locations, "cleaning your power" can be very profitable for merchants and manufacturers, but of doubtful benefit to owners.

A good surge protector (Belkin/APC ~$50) is always a good idea.

Is there a picture thread for the 9Gs? i like looking at other peoples set ups.

The first half of the thread is all 8g...second half seems to be mostly 9g.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=920011

A Panamax or Furman will certainly open the circuit when sensing an over or under voltage. (greater than 137v or less than 90v typically). This is great for the first attack! Naturally, it's wise to open the circuit (shut everything down) manually if the power is continuing to behave badly, as I believe you are suggesting.

I don't know if anyone else has posted this review of the 5020FD from CNET, but if not ...

http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-t...-33002523.html

Has anyone noticed "inaccurate primary colors" on this set. That would certainly be totally unacceptable for me. I am sure the Elites do much better in this regard ... and could be fine tuned especially on the 141FD.

After a power outage or when there is lightning in the area, it's a very good idea to disconnect all sensitive loads. An area that's subjected to brown outs needs a line conditioning UPS. A surge protector is a good idea for all sensitive load -- computers and home theater gear.

I did suggest that "cleaning" normal power might be more salesmanship than real improvement.

The problem with better audio and video due to "power cleaning" is that there have never been any double blind studies that were able to show that enthusiasts are able to identify the "improvement".

I have a Panamax for power management, but I don't expect it to improve what I see or hear.

We agree on all points!

Of course.

I heard somewhere that clean power also helps prolong the life of your components, but I didn't buy into that too hard. Does anyone know if there's any truth to that?

This week I bought and received a Belkin PureAV PF30, just because I felt like having $5500 worth of electronics plugged into a $10 power strip was not worth the risk. I wanted the peace of mind that the power console brought and I'm quite satisfied with it so far (although the LED on the front is quite bright).

Good investment in my opinion with all the thunderstorms we have around here. I also believe clean power effects sound and picture quality. I can hear noise from my overhead light dimmers when I plug my system directly into the wall....... with my Brickwall power conditioner/surge protector in place, no hum. I also just moved my 43" Pio into the bedroom after purchasing my new 5010. The 43 didn't buzz at all in the main system plugged into the Brickwall, now it's into a $10 strip......... result? a buzz audible from about 2 feet.

John

No one should ever plug anything they care about into a $10 power strip.

If you have your equipment on the same circuit with dimmers, and the dimmers are causing a problem, then line conditioning, or a change in your lighting would be called for.

Our home theater, and my computer are on dedicated circuits so the one set of lights on dimmers in our dinning room don't cause a problem.

Yep, is why I am going to buy conditioning/protection for the bedroom system as well

John

I have heard and read that the delicate circuits inside CE gear can be degraded over time by bad power. My own experience has shown me the value of power protection for my stuff. Living in a big city, in an older building, it's a virtual must-have.