or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › LCD Flat Panel Displays › Official LNxxA750 Calibration/Settings Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official LNxxA750 Calibration/Settings Thread - Page 6

post #151 of 1433
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

Can't you get the 10% gray Y down where you want it with the brightness main control? Thats how Tom Huffman says to do it. Then you could leave your gamma alone.

I can't get it there I don't know what I could be doing wrong. If I do it the traditional way by going with the black bars, i'm getting a 10% white that is .0095 of the 100%, which is way too bright. And if I lower it to get .0065, the black bar test is completely crushed to where I can't even see the 4% bar. So idk what I can do?
post #152 of 1433
Quote:
Originally Posted by zerog6 View Post

I can't get it there I don't know what I could be doing wrong. If I do it the traditional way by going with the black bars, i'm getting a 10% white that is .0103 of the 100% white. Which is way too bright. And if I lower it to get .0065, the black bar test is completely crushed to where I can't even see the 4% bar. So idk what I can do?

I ignore the black bars. I have compared calibrated results with the basic calibration setup and basic is just not precise enough. (Not to mention the huge difference between the "Blue Screen" function and the blue filter that came with DVE with regards to color setting. I posted on this previously.)

Calculate your target Y for the 10% window, then do a continuous measurement while you adjust brightness to your target Y.

Remember that changing brightness will also change your overall 100% white Y value, even though you haven't changed your contrast. So you have to go back and forth a couple of times until you get the .0065 target.

Then if you are worried that you have crushed black, do a series of near black measurements and find out.

I don't know how the Spyder works, but the DTP-94 actually touches the screen lightly. After maybe 10-15 minutes it creates a little local brightness. This only effects the low measurements, so I move the probe (and recalibrate it) frequently. I think the local brightness is a heat phenomenon. I always turn the TV on with the probe on the screen but away from the measurement window and let them both warm up for 30 minutes before doing any measurements. Plus of course I recalibrate the probe immediately before doing a new set of measurements.
post #153 of 1433
Alright tomorrow i'm gonna redo it according to my measurements instead of following the black bars.

As a general rule, brightness affects the lower IRE, while contrast affects the higher IRE correct? So if my gamma is too low on one end, I should need to adjust one or the other settings accordingly?

One more thing in case you might know, in the service menu, I have 2 different types of brightness and contrast settings. I have the regular user brightness and contrast, and then, there's a Sub-Brightness, and Sub-Contrast setting.
To my observations, whenever I changed the sub-brightness, the black bars were affected much more than the overall screen, where as, if I changed the regular user brightness, the overall screen was affected more than the black bars.

Would you happen to know what the differences are between those?

Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

I ignore the black bars. I have compared calibrated results with the basic calibration setup and basic is just not precise enough. (Not to mention the huge difference between the "Blue Screen" function and the blue filter that came with DVE with regards to color setting. I posted on this previously.)

Calculate your target Y for the 10% window, then do a continuous measurement while you adjust brightness to your target Y.

Remember that changing brightness will also change your overall 100% white Y value, even though you haven't changed your contrast. So you have to go back and forth a couple of times until you get the .0065 target.

Then if you are worried that you have crushed black, do a series of near black measurements and find out.

I don't know how the Spyder works, but the DTP-94 actually touches the screen lightly. After maybe 10-15 minutes it creates a little local brightness. This only effects the low measurements, so I move the probe (and recalibrate it) frequently. I think the local brightness is a heat phenomenon. I always turn the TV on with the probe on the screen but away from the measurement window and let them both warm up for 30 minutes before doing any measurements. Plus of course I recalibrate the probe immediately before doing a new set of measurements.
post #154 of 1433
Hey just borrowed a buddies Spyder 3 Elite, was gonna spend some time with it over next few days, Anyone have thing they want me to check out or try with this unit while I have it.
post #155 of 1433
Quote:
Originally Posted by ra004e View Post

Hey just borrowed a buddies Spyder 3 Elite, was gonna spend some time with it over next few days, Anyone have thing they want me to check out or try with this unit while I have it.

Hey ra004e!

Would you mind calibrating the unit and posting your results? I would appreciate that very much! I have an A650 but I believe the panels are similar enough to warrant trying out your settings!
post #156 of 1433
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

Thanks. Your CIE is just amazing. You are so close to spec that the Y values are almost "perfect CIE" ratios compared to white Y even with Accupel calculations.

I am going to test your settings and see if I can get my red closer to CIE spec. Green too.

One thing I might suggest. Your contrast ratio is only 892:1 and gamma is 2.05. You didn't include any info about your contrast, brightness, gamma, HDMI Black settings, but I notice your 10%gray Y value is 2.090. Tom Huffman recommends that 10% gray Y should be adjusted with the Brightness control until it is 0.0063*100%white Y. For your white Y of 202.597, if your 10% gray Y was ~1.28 you would have a higher CR and gamma.

I know there are some issues with the Spyder probes in this regard, so maybe that's just not the correct value. For my 750 the brightness setting that gets there is 43-44 when contrast is set to 89.

my spyder 2 gave me only like 800:1 for my 71 series when you got 1300-1500 and the other guy got 1600-1800:1

and on my 244T I get like 950:1 with my X94 but my spyder2 gave only, I forget, maybe like 550:1??

So, I think the spyer2 might not be so good at measuring CR. OTOH, I wonder how much of the 750 is that it is better and how much was that your 5271 maybe was subpar? Probbaly it's just the 750 is that much better.
post #157 of 1433
Quote:
Originally Posted by zerog6 View Post

I can't get it there I don't know what I could be doing wrong. If I do it the traditional way by going with the black bars, i'm getting a 10% white that is .0095 of the 100%, which is way too bright. And if I lower it to get .0065, the black bar test is completely crushed to where I can't even see the 4% bar. So idk what I can do?

trust the black bars. If you turn BL up to 8-10 and still can't make out (using vidoe levels) colors 17 or 18 then they are crushed, simple as that, no matter what any probe says.

and as I said, I could never get it to work out using the spyder2 either. Same exact experience as you are seeing.
post #158 of 1433
Quote:
Originally Posted by ra004e View Post

Hey just borrowed a buddies Spyder 3 Elite, was gonna spend some time with it over next few days, Anyone have thing they want me to check out or try with this unit while I have it.

Any chance you can try calibrating the set with Dynamic Contrast set to low from the start & work your way to a somewhat accurate color temp/grayscale?
post #159 of 1433
Anyone wanna loan me $150 for an i1? lol
post #160 of 1433
Just to compare, here is umr's (a certified ISF technician) info on the A650 after he did his calibrations:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=9114

His .pdf with all the info:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...8&d=1211117529


On/Off Contrast Ratio Pre-Calibration: 1,319
Average Gamma: 2.39


On/Off Contrast Ratio Post-Calibration: 3,629
Average Gamma: 2.33
post #161 of 1433
All of these are with default settings with one exception.

The exception is: Standard with Normal Color temp. By default this has dynamic contrast on medium, but I turned it off.

The rest are all default.

Movie with Normal, Warm1 and Warm2

Then with Movie/Normal and Movie/Warm1 I did just grayscale improvement.

These are the ColorHCFR files. You can download ColorHCFR here:
http://www.homecinema-fr.com/colorimetre/index_en.php

 

standard normal default except dyn cont off.zip 0.9248046875k . file

 

movie normal default.zip 4.080078125k . file

 

movie normal then grayscale.zip 0.947265625k . file

 

movie warm1 default.zip 0.90625k . file

 

movie warm1 then grayscale.zip 3.4375k . file
post #162 of 1433
Here is Movie/Warm2. Again just the measurements with everything reset.

Finally here is Run5 which is a full calibration of Movie/Warm1. The settings are shown in the comments section.

This is a better grayscale than my other settings, but in doing A/B there is basically no clear difference.

My main problem is that I can't get the red primary in the right location. I suspect either it can't be done, or it requires going into the service menu.

Maybe it is better just to leave green, which was the big problem with the 71 and just as big a problem with the 750 except that it can be moved, alone.

 

movie warm2 default.zip 0.869140625k . file

 

750 RUN 5 MOVIE WARM1.zip 4.5029296875k . file
post #163 of 1433
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

Here is Movie/Warm2. Again just the measurements with everything reset.

Finally here is Run5 which is a full calibration of Movie/Warm1. The settings are shown in the comments section.

This is a better grayscale than my other settings, but in doing A/B there is basically no clear difference.

My main problem is that I can't get the red primary in the right location. I suspect either it can't be done, or it requires going into the service menu.

Maybe it is better just to leave green, which was the big problem with the 71 and just as big a problem with the 750 except that it can be moved, alone.

Can't open those files,,,,nor the ones in the first post. What format are they using and where can I find it?
post #164 of 1433
Quote:
Originally Posted by studdad View Post

Can't open those files,,,,nor the ones in the first post. What format are they using and where can I find it?

You can unzip them, right?

The file is what Color HCFR produces. Download it here:
http://www.homecinema-fr.com/colorimetre/index_en.php
post #165 of 1433
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

You can unzip them, right?

The file is what Color HCFR produces. Download it here:
http://www.homecinema-fr.com/colorimetre/index_en.php

great, thanks, and yes, I can unzip them.
post #166 of 1433
here is the clouding thread for anyone who is interested. If you do have clouding, be sure to vote regarding the amount of clouding, and then vote again regarding when you see it.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1040888
post #167 of 1433
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

Pattern is Rec709 (Blu-ray), PS3.
PS3 settings
RGB LIMITED
YpBCr ON
YpBCR Superwhite ON

It is my understanding that the Superwhite feature on the PS3 enables xvYcc. Is this correct? I didn't see it listed but do you have the TV also set to xvYcc? Could that lead to some of the calibration issues you are having with the red and green primaries?

I'm following the discussion between you and zerog6 very closely as my set arrives soon. I'm having a lot of trouble not ordering that i1 LT...

I looked at the files in ColorHCFR and that Run 5 may not be perfect but it looks really darn close, probably enough to make just about most people darn happy. Are you planning on posting how you got those results? And are they all still in the user menus?
post #168 of 1433
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn Parr View Post

It is my understanding that the Superwhite feature on the PS3 enables xvYcc. Is this correct? I didn't see it listed but do you have the TV also set to xvYcc? Could that lead to some of the calibration issues you are having with the red and green primaries?

I'm following the discussion between you and zerog6 very closely as my set arrives soon. I'm having a lot of trouble not ordering that i1 LT...

I looked at the files in ColorHCFR and that Run 5 may not be perfect but it looks really darn close, probably enough to make just about most people darn happy. Are you planning on posting how you got those results? And are they all still in the user menus?

xvYcc is OFF

as far as posting "how", what do you mean? The settings or the method? Everything is done in the user menu. The resultant settings are shown in the file. If you mean the method, or a step by step process, sure I can do that when I have some spare time.
post #169 of 1433
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

xvYcc is OFF

as far as posting "how", what do you mean? The settings or the method? Everything is done in the user menu. The resultant settings are shown in the file. If you mean the method, or a step by step process, sure I can do that when I have some spare time.

Sorry, between reading your post, and looking at the files in ColorHCFR, which I'm very new at, I forgot you mentioned the settings were in there. I really wanted the settings, although a full guide on how to do this would be great. I've read the 'Dummies Guide to Greyscale Calibration' that zerog6 linked to earlier, but I think I've seen you giving a bit more in-depth information.

For instance there are a couple points in the Dummies Guide that tells you what the calculation is to find the Y value you want to shoot for at specific IRE levels that they hit in that article, but it seems like you might have information for finding it at other levels not covered in that specific guide.

The other thing I'm interested in is how consistent the panels are. When I had my 4069 I found that some of the calibrations that were considered top notch on the forums didn't look very good on my set. They tended to have over saturated colors and seemingly the contrast was overdone so they seemed very noisy. The settings I dialed in with DVE by eye and filter, even though far from perfect, led to much more natural colors.

I'd be interested to see how your settings and zerog6's end up comparing. Especially if I eventually break down and get an i1 and can compare it to my own setup as well.

Speaking of which, I've been doing a bit of research for if I do get a colorimeter. Currently I don't have an HD player, my HD comes from my DirecTV HR21, so I can't use the AVS disc to get the color window patterns. Does anyone know somewhere that one can get those patterns for SD DVD? I think it would just need to be the color primaries and secondaries. DVE doesn't have it on their SD disk, and I've read the same is true of their HD disks.
post #170 of 1433
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn Parr View Post

Sorry, between reading your post, and looking at the files in ColorHCFR, which I'm very new at, I forgot you mentioned the settings were in there. I really wanted the settings, although a full guide on how to do this would be great. I've read the 'Dummies Guide to Greyscale Calibration' that zerog6 linked to earlier, but I think I've seen you giving a bit more in-depth information.

For instance there are a couple points in the Dummies Guide that tells you what the calculation is to find the Y value you want to shoot for at specific IRE levels that they hit in that article, but it seems like you might have information for finding it at other levels not covered in that specific guide.

The other thing I'm interested in is how consistent the panels are. When I had my 4069 I found that some of the calibrations that were considered top notch on the forums didn't look very good on my set. They tended to have over saturated colors and seemingly the contrast was overdone so they seemed very noisy. The settings I dialed in with DVE by eye and filter, even though far from perfect, led to much more natural colors.

I'd be interested to see how your settings and zerog6's end up comparing. Especially if I eventually break down and get an i1 and can compare it to my own setup as well.

Speaking of which, I've been doing a bit of research for if I do get a colorimeter. Currently I don't have an HD player, my HD comes from my DirecTV HR21, so I can't use the AVS disc to get the color window patterns. Does anyone know somewhere that one can get those patterns for SD DVD? I think it would just need to be the color primaries and secondaries. DVE doesn't have it on their SD disk, and I've read the same is true of their HD disks.

Most of what I know comes from reading Tom Huffman's posts.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=852536

However, Tom's entire discussion is for people with a full featured CMS that allows for location of the primaries and secondaries at CIE spots.

If you don't have such a perfect color decoder, then you need to adjust two things. One is the luminance (Y) values for primaries and secondaries. The other is the location of primaries and secondaries as much as you can. There is a handy little calculator that shows what values to shoot for. It is the Accupel calculator.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post14117674

Incidentally the 750 has a pretty close approximation to a full CMS. And maybe someplace in the service menu, the answer to my red problem lies. Now if I can only get up the courage to go in there.

As far as your plan to get a probe before you get a Blu-ray player, I would recommend purchasing the player. You can download the disc and at least do Basic Calibration. The player gives you other benefits, like the ability to sit and drool while you watch Planet Earth (regardless of your setting!)

Good luck.
post #171 of 1433
Here is a step by step of the process I use. For anybody interested.

1. Turn TV on and put probe on the screen. Wait 30 minutes for temperatures to equilibrate. I have a wall mount and I tilt the TV enough so that the probe sits on the screen lightly.

2. Calibrate the probe if in ColorHCFR. Same for CalMAN, except that in CalMAN it is mandatory.

3. Get ready for a measurement run in ColorHCFR, quickly put the probe in the window and do the run. I usually do grayscale and color. I say "quickly" because after several minutes a little mura appears around the probe. So this first measurement is the best for the low end. (This is the principle I use for subsequent runs after I feel I've got the settings, grayscale and colors, as close as I can get them ... read below.)

4. I have a spreadsheet so that I can input my 100% gray Y value and see what my 10% gray Y value should be. I run a continuous measurement and adjust brightness while on a 10% gray window until I reach the target Y.

5. With the continuous measurement still running I do an "adjust gray", going back and forth between 25% gray and 75% gray, making adjustments in White Balance until x and y are as close to 0.313 and 0.329. Sometimes I do this with the grayscale going between 30% gray and 90% gray.

6. Next I run the grayscale measurement and look at the RGB graph to see what tweaks are needed. I make whatever adjustments is needed and run the grayscale again. If it looks good I move on. If not I tweak until it does. I verify that my 10% gray Y value is still at 0.0063*100% white Y value. If it needs to be adjusted I make sure grayscale is still OK. When grayscale is as good as I can get it and my 10%gray window Y value is at target, I start looking at color.

7. I then run the primary and secondary colors.

8. I manually input the xyY values for RGBYCM into the Accupel Calculator. I only look at the primary colors at this point, adjusting their xy coordinates and their Y values in Custom color until they are as close to what Accupel calls for as I can get them. I also might change the main Color control if this minimizes the amount of overall color adjustments I have to make with the primary colors (RGB).

9. I run the primary and secondary colors again, and again input the xyY values of all 6 colors into the Accupel Calculator. I verify that RGB are still good, per Accupel. If they are still OK, I then adjust the secondaries using the xyY values called for by the Accupel Calculator.

10. I then run primary and secondary colors again, and if everything looks good....

11. I recalibrate the probe and do grayscale plus color measurements from a different spot in the window.

12. I tweak grayscale and/or colors as called for.

13. Then I put the values in the run, save the run and post it here
post #172 of 1433
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn Parr View Post

The other thing I'm interested in is how consistent the panels are. When I had my 4069 I found that some of the calibrations that were considered top notch on the forums didn't look very good on my set. They tended to have over saturated colors and seemingly the contrast was overdone so they seemed very noisy. The settings I dialed in with DVE by eye and filter, even though far from perfect, led to much more natural colors.

I'd be interested to see how your settings and zerog6's end up comparing. Especially if I eventually break down and get an i1 and can compare it to my own setup as well.


Well Samsung seems to changes the white balance in the service menu after a firmware upgrade & even on the same firmwares.
This if from the A650, someone took pictures of all of the sub menus in the service menu from all the different firmware upgrades & I compared my then 1003.M firmware & they were all different.


Code:
White Balance

                      1002.3      1003.G      1003.M      1003.M (mine)    2001.3

Sub Brightness          128          128           128          128            128
R_Offset                507          507           507          521            521
G_Offset                512          512           512          512            512
B_Offset                504          504           504          508            508
Sub Contrast            134          134           134          134            134
R_Gain                  518          518           518          497            497
G_Gain                  512          512           512          512            512
B_Gain                  500          500           500          510            510
Movie R-offset          516          506           506          522            520
Movie B-offset          509          506           506          509            507
Movie R-Gain            540          555           555          523            540
Movie R-Gain            396          398           398          420            411
If anyone does a final calibration, maybe they could post there service menu WB settings as well (going/leaving the service menu resets all of your normal settings btw).
post #173 of 1433
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn Parr View Post

Sorry, between reading your post, and looking at the files in ColorHCFR, which I'm very new at, I forgot you mentioned the settings were in there. I really wanted the settings, although a full guide on how to do this would be great. I've read the 'Dummies Guide to Greyscale Calibration' that zerog6 linked to earlier, but I think I've seen you giving a bit more in-depth information.

For instance there are a couple points in the Dummies Guide that tells you what the calculation is to find the Y value you want to shoot for at specific IRE levels that they hit in that article, but it seems like you might have information for finding it at other levels not covered in that specific guide.

The other thing I'm interested in is how consistent the panels are. When I had my 4069 I found that some of the calibrations that were considered top notch on the forums didn't look very good on my set. They tended to have over saturated colors and seemingly the contrast was overdone so they seemed very noisy. The settings I dialed in with DVE by eye and filter, even though far from perfect, led to much more natural colors.

I'd be interested to see how your settings and zerog6's end up comparing. Especially if I eventually break down and get an i1 and can compare it to my own setup as well.

Speaking of which, I've been doing a bit of research for if I do get a colorimeter. Currently I don't have an HD player, my HD comes from my DirecTV HR21, so I can't use the AVS disc to get the color window patterns. Does anyone know somewhere that one can get those patterns for SD DVD? I think it would just need to be the color primaries and secondaries. DVE doesn't have it on their SD disk, and I've read the same is true of their HD disks.

you really need to use the exact same probe (each probe itself can easily be 2dE off and they, evne if the same type, are not always off in the same directions, although some probes like spyder2 are supposed to vary more probe to probe than certain others) and if you compare using two different probes you have even more issues.

it's too bad I didn't get my spyder2 sent out to KJ to do the comparison with same probe on same set. But perhaps I will end up with a 750 myself soon enough though, if the results using X94 don't match maybe I can still send over the spyder2 and we can see just how much or not the sets vary set to set.

EDIT: then again I don't have a PS3 so the source would be different and while that should not matter, seeing the color stats for ATI vs NVIDIA makes me think it might not be worth it.
maybe if two people use the same source and set and they are finding the settings posted here are not agreeing, they can share a probe on two sets and see what happens.
post #174 of 1433
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

9. I run the primary and secondary colors again, and again input the xyY values of all 6 colors into the Accupel Calculator. I verify that RGB are still good, per Accupel. If they are still OK, I then adjust the secondaries using the xyY values called for by the Accupel Calculator.

But the guy who created the Accupel calculator even directly confirmed in the 71 series thread that you should always try to make them closest to REC601or709 and NOT use the accupel derived secondaries for the way we are using these sets....

the xyY are absolute labels for what a certain color looks like to us.
As is sRGB, HSL, etc.

RGB, however, are not and you'd need a different % in each channel on different sets to get the same color.
post #175 of 1433
Quote:
Originally Posted by wtfer View Post

Well Samsung seems to changes the white balance in the service menu after a firmware upgrade & even on the same firmwares.
This if from the A650, someone took pictures of all of the sub menus in the service menu from all the different firmware upgrades & I compared my then 1003.M firmware & they were all different.


Code:
White Balance

                      1002.3      1003.G      1003.M      1003.M (mine)    2001.3

Sub Brightness          128          128           128          128            128
R_Offset                507          507           507          521            521
G_Offset                512          512           512          512            512
B_Offset                504          504           504          508            508
Sub Contrast            134          134           134          134            134
R_Gain                  518          518           518          497            497
G_Gain                  512          512           512          512            512
B_Gain                  500          500           500          510            510
Movie R-offset          516          506           506          522            520
Movie B-offset          509          506           506          509            507
Movie R-Gain            540          555           555          523            540
Movie R-Gain            396          398           398          420            411
If anyone does a final calibration, maybe they could post there service menu WB settings as well (going/leaving the service menu resets all of your normal settings btw).

Hey wtfer, I already went in service menu to do my calibrations, here are the WB settings for the 750 with FW 1007

Brightness and Contrast: 128
Every Offset and Gain: 512
Movie R-Offset 518
Movie B-Offset 505
Movie R-Gain 555
Movie B-Gain 443
post #176 of 1433
Quote:
Originally Posted by skibum5000 View Post

But the guy who created the Accupel calculator even directly confirmed in the 71 series thread that you should always try to make them closest to REC601or709 and NOT use the accupel derived secondaries for the way we are using these sets....

the xyY are absolute labels for what a certain color looks like to us.
As is sRGB, HSL, etc.

RGB, however, are not and you'd need a different % in each channel on different sets to get the same color.

Well, the thread on the Accupel calculator that he started is full of statements that this is how the calculator should be used, including Tom Huffman stating that secondaries are not absolute but are defined as the point a line from a primary passes through the white point and intersects the line between the two opposite primaries. And 'the guy' never objects to any of these statements.

I don't think he really understood what we were asking him.

And I do think you and I should just agree to disagree perhaps.
post #177 of 1433
Quote:
Originally Posted by zerog6 View Post

Hey wtfer, I already went in service menu to do my calibrations, here are the WB settings for the 750 with FW 1007

Brightness and Contrast: 128
Every Offset and Gain: 512
Movie R-Offset 518
Movie B-Offset 505
Movie R-Gain 555
Movie B-Gain 443

Many of us have believed that the firmware version matters for color adjustments/calibration. This proves it.

So:
  1. Even if your pro calibrator does his settings in your User Menu, you will be off if you upgrade your firmware.
  2. If your pro calibrator does his settings in the Service Menu (the usual case), and you make a note of them, your picture might or might not match after a firmware upgrade with re-institution of the same settings.
  3. Maybe there is a reason Samsung changes these settings for different firmware. Maybe the new settings are required to reproduce the same picture, in which case there is no way to figure out how to incorporate your previous pro settings whether in User or Service Menus.
post #178 of 1433
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

Well, the thread on the Accupel calculator that he started is full of statements that this is how the calculator should be used, including Tom Huffman stating that secondaries are not absolute but are defined as the point a line from a primary passes through the white point and intersects the line between the two opposite primaries. And 'the guy' never objects to any of these statements.

I don't think he really understood what we were asking him.

And I do think you and I should just agree to disagree perhaps.

I guess, although he did specifically say that xyY are xyY, etc. which is what makes sense and every computer gfx technical book says (and even some physics theory of measuring human response to light and creation of the CIE gamut books)....

I've looked into it even more and I still find nothing to say I'm wrong. Not saying I can't be, sometimes I definitely am wrong on these things at times, but I am pretty technical and have done lots of scientific work, despite what my skibum moniker and sloppy, often garbled and mis-typed posting might imply haha.

Anyway, FWIW, to others, I suggest you look into and or think about it yourself before blindly following what either one of us says (although I am right about this ).

At least it is not nearly as critical on this monitor whichever way you do it as it is on the 71 series. Those have the green primary way farther off. On the 750 it might well only barely fall into the realm of being noticeable to the eye whether you do it this way or the other way.

BTW, the reason he never objects to "the secondaries are relative to the primaries" statement is because that is true, but that doesn't mean the other stuff and that the calibration should be done, for the way 99.9% will use the TV, the way under contention. We are trying to get closest to Rec709 (or 601, a few people claim that many HD shows are mixed in 601 despite being shown on 709, who knows, I dont' know what to say about that at all) not closest to a some idealized monitor gamut, especially with how the samsungs appear to run their color engine, your just pulling even more out, but anyway I guess we agree to disagree (i'd almost be willing to be a 750 over it though haha. maybe that bet would reduce me to watching on my 24" though haha but I think I'd end up having more TV's than wall space).

anyway, ok, we agree to disagree.
post #179 of 1433
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

Many of us have believed that the firmware version matters for color adjustments/calibration. This proves it.

So:
  1. Even if your pro calibrator does his settings in your User Menu, you will be off if you upgrade your firmware.
  2. If your pro calibrator does his settings in the Service Menu (the usual case), and you make a note of them, your picture might or might not match after a firmware upgrade with re-institution of the same settings.
  3. Maybe there is a reason Samsung changes these settings for different firmware. Maybe the new settings are required to reproduce the same picture, in which case there is no way to figure out how to incorporate your previous pro settings whether in User or Service Menus.

guess it really does pay to get a good probe and learn how to reasonably (if not qutie pro-level) do it. They have even better equip, more experience and oftenuse the service menu and its finer controls, but a good probe and the user menu seems to get things 90% of the way though.
post #180 of 1433
Quote:
Originally Posted by skibum5000 View Post

guess it really does pay to get a good probe and learn how to reasonably (if not qutie pro-level) do it. They have even better equip, more experience and oftenuse the service menu and its finer controls, but a good probe and the user menu seems to get things 90% of the way though.

Yup,

The difference between a pro calibrator, and us amateurs who can pretty much do the job, is something that can probably only be measured by a probe. I highly doubt that I would be able to visually tell a difference. So if you have the time and confidence to do it yourself, especially if you learn your way in the service menu, there's nothing they can do that we can't.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: LCD Flat Panel Displays
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › LCD Flat Panel Displays › Official LNxxA750 Calibration/Settings Thread