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Official LNxxA750 Calibration/Settings Thread - Page 11

post #301 of 1433
6/30/08 at 10:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

Lookin good!

Couple of things.

Your mix of SM and UM is hard to follow. Can you not "reset" everything in SM and generate a UM Only calibration?

One of the issues with sharing settings might be that I have seen where default settings in SM vary with firmware version.

Using Tom Huffman's guide of making 10% gray window Y value = 0.0063 * 100% gray window Y value, your's seems low. Your 100% Y is 150.761 and using Tom's number your 10% Y should be ~0.950. At 0.818 yours is quite a bit lower. Now if by running a near black set of measurements and proving you aren't crushing blacks, then you are fine. If you have to turn brightness up a click or two, I'll bet you'll be getting CR closer to the ones I get. (~1800)

EDIT: Oh! and it looks like you forgot your grayscale settings.

I can reset everything, but I really want to avoid having to do so. I did a reset a while ago, and something in the SM got reset that wasn't supposed to. So I don't want to do it just in case something else goes wrong that would be trouble. If anyone wants to just go in there and check what the default values are, I can simply change them. But like you mentioned, it'd have to be someone with a 1007 FW.

Yeah I know I measured that the 10% Y was a bit low also. But I actually left it like that on purpose. The amount of shadow detail I'm losing by that .1 of a difference in gamma, is pretty much un-noticeable. I can still perfectly see the black bar test. So If I matched the 10% Y to what it's supposed to be, my contrast ratio went down to about 2100. And my black depth went from .065 to .075. So I got a good bit better black depth and contrast ratio, for a tiny loss in shadow detail at the lower IRE's. Which for my taste, I'm more than happy to sacrifice.

My Grayscale settings are on the descriptions. It's the first set of numbers that say "Service Menu - "WB Movie" Settings"
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post #302 of 1433
6/30/08 at 10:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by geezuz183 View Post

Thanks shark. I thought it was more complicated than that. Lol.
I see now. If my device has a black level option, than I can choose whichever looks better.
Thanks again.

Close, but not quite. HDMI Black Level is not a subjective setting that you can set to your liking, it has to be correct for the output of your source device. If it is set wrong, you will crush your blacks, or you will wash the picture out and lose image information. Typically, for DVD/HD DVD/BD players and set top boxes you would want it set to Low, and for computer connections you would want it at Normal. However, some source devices also have a setting to adjust the HDMI black range, and in those instances you need to make sure that both the source and the display are set appropriately.
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post #303 of 1433
7/1/08 at 12:42pm
Alright, I think I'm finally done. I've tried for quite a while, but it's not going to get any better than what I've done now from my experience.

The grayscale was already as good as it can get, so that was pretty much unchanged. The same goes for the contrast ratio.

I was able to get better color accuracy in the end. Previously I had good dE values for the colors, but the x/y values were further off than what I wanted. I found that by raising the general color setting even more and then compensating by lowering the intensity of each color in the color space menu, I was able to get better accuracy in the x/y values. Which in turn gave me even better dE values. Green though is still a color that's simply under saturated, there's nothing you can do about it. None the less, it's still pretty close to being where it needs to be. And if you look at the file, you can see that every other color if pretty much perfect.

I'm very happy with everything now. So I think this was my last calibration for a while. Special thanks to ra004e for letting me borrow his eye-one sensor so I can do the calibrations and post the results, it's very much appreciated.

For those who want the white balance settings for the user menu. They really haven't changed much at all from my previous Warm-1 settings. So you'll be fine using the previous White Balance settings I posted combined with the rest of these settings I have now. I'll post them together below so you won't have to keep searching for them.

The ColorHFCR file is attached

Here they are:

FW:1007

Movie Mode: Warm-1

Contrast Ratio: 3,110:1

White Balance
If adjusting through User Menu
Offset
R: 28
G: 25
B: 21
Gain
R: 25
G: 25
B: 29

If adjusting through Service Menu - "WB Movie" Settings
R_Gain = 52
B_Gain = -89
R_Offset = 0
B_Offset = 8
Gamma = M2

(SM-WB Movie/User Menu) Picture Settings
Backlight = 3
Contrast = 100
Brightness = 43
Color = 50
Sharpness = 10
Tint = 50/50
Gamma = 0 , If you already adjusted Gamma through the Service Menu (Expert Settings)
Gamma = -1, If adjusting Gamma through User Menu only

Color Space
Red
R = 30
G = 0
B = 1
Green
R = 26
G = 46
B = 0
Blue
R = 9
G = 0
B = 41
Cyan
R = 30
G = 47
B = 56
Magenta
R = 38
G = 0
B = 58
Yellow
R = 60
G = 48
B = 0

 

i1-Final.zip 5.265625k . file
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post #304 of 1433
7/1/08 at 1:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

Dynamic contrast shoots CR up to more like 6500

And the difference between 750 and 71 is noticeable.

i guess i may as well push for the swap rather than some attempted repair then.
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post #305 of 1433
7/1/08 at 1:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ev99 View Post

I used zerog's calibration settings and some others posted on here. The thing I find is the blacks are too deep and don't have enough detail. Should I set the HDMI black level back to normal or keep it on low? Also if anyone needs a fix on the halo issue I have a great answer that doesn't involve tape, just message me if interested.

it depends what you ahve plugged in.

if you send it 0=black, 255=white you need to set HDMI Level to Normal
if you send it 16=black, 235=white then you need to set it to Low

most PC-based stuff needs Normal even for movies and TV (although certain OS and certain revision of gfx card drivers do require certain formats of movie and TV to be set to Low, it depends, these days mostly only VMC HDTV or SD DVD needs Low, if even)

most other stuff needs Low (but you can set the PS3, I believe, in ways that mean you need Normal), but there are some exceptions.

for a given source setup a given way you always leave it at either Normal and Low and never play around with that.

if you use Low when you need Normal you get black crush and blown out highlight details, more saturation, more contrast.

if you use Normnal when you need Low you get washed out blacks and faded highlights, less saturation, less contrast.

you can use a test pattern to figure it out if you are not used to it enough to just notice it by eye.
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post #306 of 1433
7/1/08 at 1:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by studdad View Post

Gotta love that dynamic Contrast, lol. I know it isn't "technically" right, but I can't live without it.

try it for a week without it.
you might change your mind.
i did.
so much more natural (well very, very dark scenes in some ways are more natural with DC on, but overall it's not worth it IMO and gamma +1 to get to 2.2 helps make up for its loss) and i noticed the bunkers at Augusta would get clipped with DC on too.
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post #307 of 1433
7/1/08 at 1:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by zerog6 View Post

I can reset everything, but I really want to avoid having to do so. I did a reset a while ago, and something in the SM got reset that wasn't supposed to. So I don't want to do it just in case something else goes wrong that would be trouble. If anyone wants to just go in there and check what the default values are, I can simply change them. But like you mentioned, it'd have to be someone with a 1007 FW.

Yeah I know I measured that the 10% Y was a bit low also. But I actually left it like that on purpose. The amount of shadow detail I'm losing by that .1 of a difference in gamma, is pretty much un-noticeable. I can still perfectly see the black bar test. So If I matched the 10% Y to what it's supposed to be, my contrast ratio went down to about 2100. And my black depth went from .065 to .075. So I got a good bit better black depth and contrast ratio, for a tiny loss in shadow detail at the lower IRE's. Which for my taste, I'm more than happy to sacrifice.

My Grayscale settings are on the descriptions. It's the first set of numbers that say "Service Menu - "WB Movie" Settings"

if you watch in a very dark room i've even heard some say that slightly more than gamma 2.2 is arguably even a tad more how it should be at the lower shades so you might not really even be technically off.
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post #308 of 1433
7/1/08 at 2:46pm
Samsung LN52A750 LCD flat panel (June 2008 review link).


The Samsung 750 series according to the latest review refreshes 1080P/24 correctly using true 5:5 pulldown for those interested in a judder free natural film quality. When AMP is turned off each 24fps is repeated 5 times without interpolation of new frames to offer true 5:5 pulldown. Also when AMP is turned on some 60HZ video material in the picture can sometimes be improved since the motion artifacts issue that appeared on prior Samsungs appears to be corrected in the 750 series. I actually had a chance to watch the Samsung for a brief period of time and for a LCD display the black level and over all picture quality was excellent. Of course it is not as good as a Pioneer kuro Plasma which has deeper blacks. According to the lastest review the Samsung LN52A750 has a better black level and picture quality compared to the Sony XBR4 series. The Samsung is also $800 cheaper compared to the Sony LCD display. So right now in the LCD world Samsung has the best picture quality for a consumer LCD flat panel. It is amazing that Samsung has now become a high-end brand that is also priced below the competition.

A few quotes from the review link

"As with virtually all upscale LCDs these days, the LN52A750 doubles the refresh rate from 60 to 120Hz. To combat motion blur, a feature called Auto Motion Plus (AMP) inserts interpolated frames between the actual frames in the input signal. This feature can be turned off, in which case each frame in a 60Hz signal is displayed twice and frames in a 24Hz signal are each repeated five times. I noticed a few glaring artifacts when AMP was engaged in a previous-generation Samsung LCD TV, but this year's models have improved it substantially, as we'll see.

"Samsung has come a long way since the days when it was considered a second-tier bargain-basement brand. Thanks to steadily improving quality, the Korean megacorp is now one of the world's pre-eminent consumer-electronics manufacturers. I've reviewed several Samsung TVs over the years, and each one has been better than the one before.

"The best test of 120Hz frame interpolation is the FPD Benchmark Blu-ray test disc. With AMP on, the horizontal resolution in the horizontally scrolling monoscope improved, but the vertical resolution was actually degraded. The horizontally scrolling characters were sharpened, especially in the low-contrast tests. All real-world clips (hammock, swing, etc.) looked much sharper with AMP on, and I saw no evidence of the artifacts I observed under the same conditions with the previous-generation LN-T4671F.

The only other nit to pick is the relatively high reflectivity of the screenin fact, it looked more like a plasma than an LCD in that regard. I could see a sharp reflection of myself when the screen was dark. This could be a problem in rooms with light sources opposite the TV. Samsung claims this actually lowers the black level by not diffusing the reflection of light sources in the room.

The Samsung 750 series has a better black level and picture quality compared to the Sony XBR4 series and does it for $800 less.


The most obvious comparison to make is with the Sony KDL-52XBR4. As much as I like that TV, I prefer the Samsung with its better blacks, sharper standard-def detail, better 120Hz frame interpolation, one more HDMI input, and better menu system. And the Samsung is $800 less than the Sony to boot, making it a better value. Both have very wide bezels, so you need to take that into account either way.

"Samsung has come a long way from the days of being a cheapie brand, and the LN52A750 proves it in spades. Gorgeous colors, exquisite detail, great blacks, excellent shadow detail, exceptional processing, tons of useful features, and a reasonable pricewhat's not to love?

http://ultimateavmag.com/flatpaneldi...n52/index.html
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post #309 of 1433
7/1/08 at 2:48pm
Here are some calibration settings one may want to try on the 750 series Samsungs.
http://ultimateavmag.com/flatpaneldi...52/index7.html
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post #310 of 1433
7/1/08 at 3:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by zerog6 View Post

Alright, I think I'm finally done. I've tried for quite a while, but it's not going to get any better than what I've done now from my experience.

The grayscale was already as good as it can get, so that was pretty much unchanged. The same goes for the contrast ratio.

I was able to get better color accuracy in the end. Previously I had good dE values for the colors, but the x/y values were further off than what I wanted. I found that by raising the general color setting even more and then compensating by lowering the intensity of each color in the color space menu, I was able to get better accuracy in the x/y values. Which in turn gave me even better dE values. Green though is still a color that's simply under saturated, there's nothing you can do about it. None the less, it's still pretty close to being where it needs to be. And if you look at the file, you can see that every other color if pretty much perfect.

I'm very happy with everything now. So I think this was my last calibration for a while. Special thanks to ra004e for letting me borrow his eye-one sensor so I can do the calibrations and post the results, it's very much appreciated.

For those who want the white balance settings for the user menu. They really haven't changed much at all from my previous Warm-1 settings. So you'll be fine using the previous White Balance settings I posted combined with the rest of these settings I have now. I'll post them together below so you won't have to keep searching for them.

The ColorHFCR file is attached

Here they are:

FW:1007

Movie Mode: Warm-1

White Balance
If adjusting through User Menu
Offset
R: 28
G: 25
B: 21
Gain
R: 25
G: 25
B: 29

If adjusting through Service Menu - "WB Movie" Settings
R_Gain = 52
B_Gain = -89
R_Offset = 0
B_Offset = 8
Gamma = M2

(SM-WB Movie/User Menu) Picture Settings
Backlight = 3
Contrast = 91
Brightness = 42
Color = 50
Sharpness = 10
Tint = 50/50
Gamma = 0 , If adjusting through Service Menu (Expert Settings)
Gamma = -1, If adjusting through User Menu

Color Space
Red
R = 32
G = 0
B = 0
Green
R = 30
G = 50
B = 0
Blue
R = 9
G = 0
B = 44
Cyan
R = 31
G = 49
B = 56
Magenta
R = 37
G = 0
B = 57
Yellow
R = 50
G = 54
B = 0

Zerog6,

Thanks dude! You 'da man!
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post #311 of 1433
7/1/08 at 4:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by skibum5000 View Post

try it for a week without it.
you might change your mind.
i did.
so much more natural (well very, very dark scenes in some ways are more natural with DC on, but overall it's not worth it IMO and gamma +1 to get to 2.2 helps make up for its loss) and i noticed the bunkers at Augusta would get clipped with DC on too.

Isn't there a way to calibrate around it?
What I use, is Dynamic Contrast = Low & set the Contrast to 66 & the Color to 39 to compensate. I also sometimes lower the backlight 1 or two clicks as well.
I just don't know what the gamma is supposed to be at with those settings.

I should mention that I notice Dynamic Contrast on will lower the backlight lower than what is possible at zero with it normally off.

Have a black blank screen or one that is mostly black at backlight 6 with the Dynamic Contrast off & then turn it on & the blank screens black goes shades darker by a huge margin without lowering the backlight.

BTW zerog6, did you post the Main WB settings in the service menu, the one with the sub brightness & the sub contrast?
I noticed when I did a Factory reset, they changed as well as being different with each & every firmware.
If your are different, your settings for other people wouldn't be 100% accurate.

Also in the OptionByte menu, is the gamma at Off or at 0.95?
They override all settings including the one in WB Movie.
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post #312 of 1433
7/1/08 at 4:27pm
Can someone willing to check update to the new 1008 firmware and see if they, once again, made changes to the white balance settings in the service menu?
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post #313 of 1433
7/1/08 at 4:48pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by geezuz183 View Post

How's it going studdad?
Im interested in trying out your settings with dynamic contrast. Mind sharing them
?
Thanks.

Right now they are pretty basic. I just set them to what looked pleasing to the eye, and am going to make changes once AVIA comes out with their Blue Ray Calibration Disk (hurry up guys). Anyway, here they are:

Mode: Standard
Backlight: 5 (3 in a dark room)
Contrast: 87
Brightness: 41
Sharpness: 15
Color: 45
Tint: G50/R50

Black adjust: Low (tried Med, and liked it too)
Dynamic Contrast: Low
Gamma: 0
Color Space: Auto
Flesh Tone: +2
Edge Enhancement: Off
xvYCC: Off

White Balance:
Offset
R: 27
G: 25
B: 24
Gain
R: 25
G: 25
B: 25

Color Tone: Normal
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post #314 of 1433
7/1/08 at 4:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ev99 View Post

Yes I also would like to know some good settings for dynamic. Also, Is there any good reason to put the backlight over 5? Just wondering. Thanks!

Dynamic Contrast, not Dynamic Mode. I like the Dynamic Mode on this tv as it uses the DNIe engine and really clarifies things, but I could not warm up the picture enough.....maybe when I get that calibration disk.
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post #315 of 1433
7/1/08 at 5:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by HDTV1080P24 View Post

Here are some calibration settings one may want to try on the 750 series Samsungs.
http://ultimateavmag.com/flatpaneldi...52/index7.html

I see they were able to get a contrast ratio of 2889 in those calbrations. I'm going to have to try to get one more reading to see how they did that because it's getting to me, lol. At this point I'm assuming it's just because of lower backlight that they get higher contrast ratios so i'm gonna see
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post #316 of 1433
7/1/08 at 5:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by wtfer View Post

BTW zerog6, did you post the Main WB settings in the service menu, the one with the sub brightness & the sub contrast?
I noticed when I did a Factory reset, they changed as well as being different with each & every firmware.
If your are different, your settings for other people wouldn't be 100% accurate.

Also in the OptionByte menu, is the gamma at Off or at 0.95?
They override all settings including the one in WB Movie.

Yeah, all of the main WB settings in the service menu are set at 512 by default. And the contrast and brightness are at 128.

The gamma is also by default at .95
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post #317 of 1433
7/1/08 at 8:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by studdad View Post

Excellent Blacks. It looks like you took the picture in a dark room too,,,is that correct?

its a pic of a pic. cant say i ever seen one of these that didnt have incredible black levels. let that be a lesson to you.
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post #318 of 1433
7/1/08 at 9:23pm
I finally got it, lol, I finally got the contrast ratio up to where you see them from other calibrators.

Contrast Ratio: 3,110:1

It was 2 things:

1. Really so simple that I overlooked it. What setting gives better contrast ratios? The Contrast Setting!!! lol. Yes that was the big thing. These sets can be taken up to a Contrast of 100 without any clipping. So that was it, I turned up the Contrast from 91 to 100, and bam, instant amazing contrast ratio. The best thing, everything else remaing contstantly the same, so there were no compromises to it.

2. I found that a small problem was that I was pressing the sensor up against the screen a bit too hard, which due to the pressure, the pixels in that area got brighter, so it was making my O IRE reading higher than what it should've been. So after changing the position of the sensor and not putting much pressure on it, I got it correct.

The only thing afterwards is that I had to slightly adjust the color space settings again because now the luminance of the colors was a bit higher of course.

It still wasn't as high as some reviews i've seen where it's up to 3,600:1 or so, to that I really have no clue how. At that point, turning up the contrast even further in the service menu doesn't work because then it gets noticeably blue at the higher IRE. I'm guessing, as what was the case before, is that since they're using better equipment, perhaps the eye-one, as good as it is, can't quite get as good a reading at 0 IRE. But either way, I'm stoked that I finally got it up there.

Oh and I also turned up the Brightness from 42-43. After everything, I found that it really does not give any more black depth to the picture on 42 as I thought before, and on 43 it gives you slightly better shadow detail, so 43 is better.

I updated my previous post with the new info, new settings, and new HCFR file. Take a look and let me know what you think
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post #319 of 1433
7/1/08 at 10:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by zerog6 View Post

FW:1007

Movie Mode: Warm-1

Contrast Ratio: 3,110:1

White Balance
If adjusting through User Menu
Offset
R: 28
G: 25
B: 21
Gain
R: 25
G: 25
B: 29

If adjusting through Service Menu - "WB Movie" Settings
R_Gain = 52
B_Gain = -89
R_Offset = 0
B_Offset = 8
Gamma = M2

(SM-WB Movie/User Menu) Picture Settings
Backlight = 3
Contrast = 100
Brightness = 43
Color = 50
Sharpness = 10
Tint = 50/50
Gamma = 0 , If you already adjusted Gamma through the Service Menu (Expert Settings)
Gamma = -1, If adjusting Gamma through User Menu only

Color Space
Red
R = 30
G = 0
B = 1
Green
R = 26
G = 46
B = 0
Blue
R = 9
G = 0
B = 41
Cyan
R = 30
G = 47
B = 56
Magenta
R = 38
G = 0
B = 58
Yellow
R = 60
G = 48
B = 0

Hey zero,

Do we leave these settings the same from your original Warm-1 settings?

Black adjust: Off
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Gamma: -3
Color Space: Auto
Flesh Tone: 0
Edge Enhancement: On
xvYCC: Off
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post #320 of 1433
7/2/08 at 8:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by the dza View Post

Hey zero,

Do we leave these settings the same from your original Warm-1 settings?

Black adjust: Off
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Gamma: -3
Color Space: Auto
Flesh Tone: 0
Edge Enhancement: On
xvYCC: Off

No, both the gamma and color space settings I updated to what's posted above. Everything else though yes you leave the same
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post #321 of 1433
7/2/08 at 11:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by zerog6 View Post

No, both the gamma and color space settings I updated to what's posted above. Everything else though yes you leave the same

Do I have to upgrade my firmware to use your most recent calibrations? I'll be using the user menu version
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post #322 of 1433
7/2/08 at 12:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by zerog6 View Post

Alright, I think I'm finally done. I've tried for quite a while, but it's not going to get any better than what I've done now from my experience.

The grayscale was already as good as it can get, so that was pretty much unchanged. The same goes for the contrast ratio.

I was able to get better color accuracy in the end. Previously I had good dE values for the colors, but the x/y values were further off than what I wanted. I found that by raising the general color setting even more and then compensating by lowering the intensity of each color in the color space menu, I was able to get better accuracy in the x/y values. Which in turn gave me even better dE values. Green though is still a color that's simply under saturated, there's nothing you can do about it. None the less, it's still pretty close to being where it needs to be. And if you look at the file, you can see that every other color if pretty much perfect.

I'm very happy with everything now. So I think this was my last calibration for a while. Special thanks to ra004e for letting me borrow his eye-one sensor so I can do the calibrations and post the results, it's very much appreciated.

For those who want the white balance settings for the user menu. They really haven't changed much at all from my previous Warm-1 settings. So you'll be fine using the previous White Balance settings I posted combined with the rest of these settings I have now. I'll post them together below so you won't have to keep searching for them.

The ColorHFCR file is attached

Here they are:

FW:1007

Movie Mode: Warm-1

Contrast Ratio: 3,110:1

White Balance
If adjusting through User Menu
Offset
R: 28
G: 25
B: 21
Gain
R: 25
G: 25
B: 29

If adjusting through Service Menu - "WB Movie" Settings
R_Gain = 52
B_Gain = -89
R_Offset = 0
B_Offset = 8
Gamma = M2

(SM-WB Movie/User Menu) Picture Settings
Backlight = 3
Contrast = 100
Brightness = 43
Color = 50
Sharpness = 10
Tint = 50/50
Gamma = 0 , If you already adjusted Gamma through the Service Menu (Expert Settings)
Gamma = -1, If adjusting Gamma through User Menu only

Color Space
Red
R = 30
G = 0
B = 1
Green
R = 26
G = 46
B = 0
Blue
R = 9
G = 0
B = 41
Cyan
R = 30
G = 47
B = 56
Magenta
R = 38
G = 0
B = 58
Yellow
R = 60
G = 48
B = 0

damn that CR is sick!!
I think I really need to insist they don't try to mess with my 5271 and just ship me the 650/750!

WB looks pretty good, although a bit off at 10% and a few other spots.

CIE looks really good

you should take the saturation measurements for all channels too though, I would bet your setting of Color 50 is way too high.
If it is anything like the 71 series it likely should be down at 40 or so.

would also be interesting to see the dark curve and light curve measurements to look into the 3000:1 ratio better.
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post #323 of 1433
7/2/08 at 12:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by wtfer View Post

Isn't there a way to calibrate around it?
What I use, is Dynamic Contrast = Low & set the Contrast to 66 & the Color to 39 to compensate. I also sometimes lower the backlight 1 or two clicks as well.
I just don't know what the gamma is supposed to be at with those settings.

I should mention that I notice Dynamic Contrast on will lower the backlight lower than what is possible at zero with it normally off.

Have a black blank screen or one that is mostly black at backlight 6 with the Dynamic Contrast off & then turn it on & the blank screens black goes shades darker by a huge margin without lowering the backlight.

BTW zerog6, did you post the Main WB settings in the service menu, the one with the sub brightness & the sub contrast?
I noticed when I did a Factory reset, they changed as well as being different with each & every firmware.
If your are different, your settings for other people wouldn't be 100% accurate.

Also in the OptionByte menu, is the gamma at Off or at 0.95?
They override all settings including the one in WB Movie.

yeah turnign contrast down might help that, I still sticking with it off though, especially if I get the 650/750 then at 3000:1 i really don;t se the point in messing with DC anymore.
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post #324 of 1433
7/2/08 at 1:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by the dza View Post

Do I have to upgrade my firmware to use your most recent calibrations? I'll be using the user menu version

I don't recommend you update unless it's to fix the specific problems that update is meant for. I'd say leave your current FW, and adjust the settings to fit how you like it, which you would probably have to do regardless.
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post #325 of 1433
7/2/08 at 1:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by skibum5000 View Post

damn that CR is sick!!
I think I really need to insist they don't try to mess with my 5271 and just ship me the 650/750!

WB looks pretty good, although a bit off at 10% and a few other spots.

CIE looks really good

you should take the saturation measurements for all channels too though, I would bet your setting of Color 50 is way too high.
If it is anything like the 71 series it likely should be down at 40 or so.

would also be interesting to see the dark curve and light curve measurements to look into the 3000:1 ratio better.

White Balance at 10% or below are not supposed to be accurate because they're so close to black. So no worries there

Unfortunately I can't do complete saturation or near black/near white luminance measurements because I don't have the test patterns for it. The DVE and AVS discs I'm using only have 5% increments and 75% and 100% color patterns.
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post #326 of 1433
7/2/08 at 1:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by zerog6 View Post

I don't recommend you update unless it's to fix the specific problems that update is meant for. a

The auto backlight (Energy Savings Auto) hasn't worked properly on the 750, and one person has reported that it is working properly now on the new 1008 firmware. So, anyone interested in this feature working properly has an interest in upgrading.
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post #327 of 1433
7/2/08 at 3:20pm
Hey zero, does it matter which menu we use to adjust the gamma and the white balance?
Thanks.
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post #328 of 1433
7/2/08 at 3:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by geezuz183 View Post

Hey zero, does it matter which menu we use to adjust the gamma and the white balance?
Thanks.

It will be more precise to use the service menu, but it's a very small difference that it's not really necessary. You can get about the same results in the regular user menu
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post #329 of 1433
7/2/08 at 7:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by zerog6 View Post

White Balance at 10% or below are not supposed to be accurate because they're so close to black. So no worries there

Unfortunately I can't do complete saturation or near black/near white luminance measurements because I don't have the test patterns for it. The DVE and AVS discs I'm using only have 5% increments and 75% and 100% color patterns.

Do you have the newest AVS disc? The one that does Bluray or the one that does HDDVD? They have all the patterns exactly in the right order for ColorHCFR, and of course it's free.

If you look at the individual colors in the gamma graph in your latest 100% contrast setting, you see what I believe is called 'soft clipping'. It isn't real bad and it might even look better. With my 71 I explored to find out where no clipping happened and where tolerable (soft) clipping happened. With the 71 those contrast settings were 89 and 92 respectively. The 750 is much more tolerant of higher contrast settings, and what you are showing with contrast at 100 is about what the 71 looked like with contrast at 92.
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post #330 of 1433
7/2/08 at 7:55pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

Do you have the newest AVS disc? The one that does Bluray or the one that does HDDVD? They have all the patterns exactly in the right order for ColorHCFR, and of course it's free.

If you look at the individual colors in the gamma graph in your latest 100% contrast setting, you see what I believe is called 'soft clipping'. It isn't real bad and it might even look better. With my 71 I explored to find out where no clipping happened and where tolerable (soft) clipping happened. With the 71 those contrast settings were 89 and 92 respectively. The 750 is much more tolerant of higher contrast settings, and what you are showing with contrast at 100 is about what the 71 looked like with contrast at 92.

Yeah i'm using the Blu-Ray version. But it still doesn't have the patterns needed to do saturation and near-black/near-white measurements.

Okay I see the red that takes a nose dive from 80-90%, is that what you're talking about?
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