Official LNxxA750 Calibration/Settings Thread - Page 33

i tried and am currently running it. i like it but im not 100% sold on it.
2 questions for you.

does it seem overly warm to you ?
also do you think it could be a bit deeper in blacks ?
what are you using it for ? (component wise) id like to compare the same elements if we can. im a ps3 blu / HDDVD / twcable hd user.

If you are outputting YCbCr for BD movies as you should be, there is no need for the HDMI Black Level setting, which is why it is grayed out.

Carlp336,

Nope. It looks great to me. The blacks look a lot better than before. The only slight change I made after my last note was the backlight. I bumped it up to 6. It can probably be better, but I'm a noob at this stuff and learning. I may treat myself to a colorimeter for Christmas.

By the way, here are my connections:
- DISH Network ViP722 HD-DVR to HDMI-1; Optical audio connected to Yamaha RV-1600 A/V receiver
- Xbox 360 to HDMI-2; Optical audio connected to Yamaha RV-1600 A/V receiver
- Panasonic DMP-BD30 (Blu-Ray) to TV HDMI-3; Optical audio connected to Yamaha RV-1600 A/V receiver

Note: My current Yamaha A/V receiver doesn't do 1080P and it's HDMI 1.1.

ok i need some help to update the firmware on my tv...but my comp just fried the only thing i have is my ps3 & the usb stick...so does anybody have the files already set up unzipped...i have model LN40A750 with stock firmware ...thx...i would like the latest firmware if anybody can i would appreciate it..im trying to test out them configurations im trying to get the best out of my tv...thx alot ahead of time.

Yes, you can set the backlight to whatever the conditions (ambient light) of your viewing room and personal preference dictate. That doesn't change the calibration, which is all ratios. There are 'recommendations' for the amount of total luminance for various screens, but I find that the higher settings that LCDs are capable of is more to my liking. At night I have my BL on 5, sometimes 4. During the day: 7-8. I have a very bright room in the daytime. To duplicate the brightness of a movie theater, the BL would probably be 1 or 2.

I have measured the grayscale with different BL settings and there is no difference (as predicted by others who know about such things.)

i want to reset my service menu options any one have the prior 1012.12 FW ? (1009)

thanks
CARL

PS3 set to limited sure does wash out my home screen

I have noticed that, too.

'home screen' ?

If you are referring to a computer, then you shouldn't be using Limited in the first place.

The PS3 XMB home screen, i.e., the main screen that allows you to choose what to do with the PS3.

I pulled this image from Loot Ninja's website.

Q: if i can get a 750 for same price as 650, is there a reason NOT o get a 750? i read the 750 has clouding issue, though i don't know what is meant by that.

The 750 does not have clouding issues.

I'm sure samsung puts higher graded panels in their higher end models, but to say S-PVA panels (including the 750) are not prone to clouding is questionable. My 750 has a little clouding and one flashlit corner and 2 thin lines of "shading" from top to bottom, only visible when panning a solid colored .jpg horizontally, they seem to be backlight related, as they are in the exact same spot, splitting the screen in thirds vertically. Hard to see, noticable on hockey.

Clouding is an LCD issue. It isn't specific to Samsungs or the 750, and not all 750s have clouding. To come on here and say that the 750 has clouding issues is disingenuous and misleading. The 750 does not have a clouding issue.

No clouding here!

No clouding here, either.

I'd say most samsungs do have some clouding (I own 3, and have exchanged two more). From what I've seen, Sony and JVC LCDs (who use/used Samsung panels) are also prone to major clouding. BTW, I used to work at a big box consumer electronics store and the only panels that didn't have clouding issues were sharp, olevia and the cheap Chinese panels (they had other issues).

I never said 750's have clouding issues specifically, and like I said, I'm sure the 7/8/9 series get the best of the bunch (they are graded at the factory for dead/bright pixels and uniformity) but both my 750s have minor clouding, and the first 750 I owned had a bright pixel, a flashlit corner and minor clouding... so to say it ISN'T an issue at all is ignorant. I'd say Samsung sourced panels have the most clouding. Ever looked at a Samsung panel at an extreme angle? Some look like they have major blotches of green, yellow or purple all over when displaying a black screen, which in turn produces a non-uniform picture when viewed head on.

Obviously I believe they are the best TV's on the market, but a flagship product with a premium price should not have issues such as clouding, cosmetic design flaws, firmware that needs constant revisions to deliver proper video processing, etc.

I'm not trying to stir the pot, but to say I was intentionally misleading people for kicks is silly. I also find it hard to believe that anyone with a 52" panel has a 100% uniform screen.

The 750 does NOT have a major clouding issue like older S-LCD sourced panels (Sony V2500 comes to mind), but even the 850 thread is ripe with people complaining of clouding. A 52" 850 currently has a MSRP in Canada of $3699, $4000 for a TV that has even minor defects is absurd.

just picked up a 750 yesterday, what are the settings for a standard digital cable box for tv programs, havent bought the hd box or Blue Ray yet?

Can anyone post the latest user menu settings for 1012.2? There are great posts by kjgarrison and others who provided settings in the service menus, but I'd prefer to make the changes in the user menus. Obviously it would be less risky and easy to change back in case the PQ deteriorated. Any suggestions?

Way back in this thread someplace are some UM settings that I posted which are pretty good ... at least on my TV they are ... er, were.

i got my 46a750 on Sunday and loving it every bit. This is my first HDTV, therefore I'm basically new with the calibration set up. I have one question on Auto Motion Plus... when do you use this... for sports? Cause when I put the AMP on high, the characters looks 3d basically look like it a shooting of a film or something.... so what amp do you have your tv on?
Maybe i'm not used to this yet.... because when i put the amp on high or med.. it look like the characters are right there...

Use AMP whenever you want to, simple as that.

Is there a general concensus on what setting people are using ? I just got my 52" 750 the other night and it looks fantastic through component and seemed to sharpen things up just a touch now I would like to set the picture clarity/color settings and have skimmed through the past 30 some odd pages but a link or post from someone with whats considered the best settings would be greatly appreciated. I like the animated 3d type look if that makes a difference where the picture looks like its popping out at you.
Thanks.

I'm kind of a AMP ho - I leave it on medium all the time - I have never had any problems with artifacts or other problems.

I leave AMP on Low for most everything. Sometimes I turn AMP off for very old films to preserve and enjoy the film experience.

i like amp on high, i wish they had three settings, high/ ultra high/ super ultra high

i think it gives the picture a real look, which is fake in most cases so it looks more real to life, fake

Does anyone have wall-e on blu-ray and a PS3? There is a pixar calibration guide and the test images hate AMP on low! Goes all crazy and skips right through them.

I had it from Netflix a few months ago. Missed that little benefit. I'll have to look more carefully. What was it called and where in the menu was it, if you recall?

No wait. We saw it at the movies. heh

Maybe a dumb question, but here goes.. Right now, I have a 52-750 with Directv using HDMI. For the best picture, is HDMI the way to go, or will component offer a sharper picture? I have been reading some conflicting info, just wanted to ask, before going out and buying decent component cables.

Some people refer to satellite HD as "HD-Lite", and this doesn't even consider that it is 1080i.

So for your specific question about D*, it probably doesn't matter. It's how I run my D* box.

For things like Blu-ray and any true high bandwidth HD, then HDMI should be better and can do 1080p.

btw... this isn't really a calibration thread issue