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Cheap Remote Power Switch Solution?  

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 
I would like a reasonably priced solution for automatically turning on my power amps. This could be triggered by a 12V out signal on my B&K Ref 30, or from an IR signal from my Pronto remote. I've looked around on the home automation sites, and the only things I've found (so far) are $300-$400 power conditioner/controllers, and X10 controlled outlets. I'm certainly no X10 expert, but it looks like the inexpensive X10 switched outlets would require an X10 controller of some sort, and possibly an IR->RF remote "translator".

I'm hoping must be simpler solutions out there for this particular application. Does anyone have any suggestions for products that would handle this?
post #2 of 14
I fond a Parasound SCAMP (discontinued but brand new) for under $50.
I listed the specs below.
I've had it for approx. 6 months and works great. Check the internet you might find some more real cheap.
Good luck!
Grant

Specifications
Two AC outlets can be activated with audio signal or DC
voltage
Two internal 15 ampere relays
Eight minute turn-off delay
Programmable sequential turn-on delay
May be daisy-chained for multiple outlets in sequence
Sophisticated protection circuitry safeguards your audio
equipment from power surges on the AC line
9 1/2" width front panel
1 rack space height front panel
Two unit fastening hardware available for side-by-side
rack mounting
post #3 of 14
X10 is not a bad solution and you could be the pieces you need for anout $50. Just keep one thing in mind, it's not foolproof. X10 can be falsly triggered by line noise and neighbors X10 system if you share the same transformer. There are only 256 possible codes. But it'probably not an issue if your amps themselves come on in the middle of the night.
X10 also makes an interface for alarm systems that could be used with the 12v signal from your amp. The idea is to trun on lights if your alarm is tripped. Connect the 12v frpom you processor to the screw terminals on the x10 interface. The set the x10 power modules and the interface to the same codes and plug the power maps in through the modules. I always use the upper house codes J or higher. That way you are safer from neightbor's systems.

Be sure to use "Appliance" modules and not "Lamp" modules. Lamp modules are dimmers and not good for equipment. The Appliance modules come in 2 or 3 prong versions. Radio Shack and Home Depot seem to hve the best pieces and Radio Shack is still a genuine X10 with RS's name on it. The interface may need to be special ordered at Radio Shack.
post #4 of 14
Thread Starter 
Both of these are very good suggestions.
The SCAMP availability seems to be somewhat limited (at least according to search engines). I'd jump at it for $50, but the best price I could find was $75.99, and that page dated from Sept so I'm not sure if it's even available at that price.

The X10 suggestion was also right on the money. smarthome.com and other X10 sites sell a "Powerflash" interface that can receive the 12V from the preamp, and then send a "turn on" signal to an X10 outlet. The Powerflash interface and an X10 outlet would cost from $40-$50.

The SCAMP provides surge protection, but the X10 solution could ultimately be more powerful if combined with other X10 modules such as dimmers.
post #5 of 14
Mark,

I have an older version of the processor you mention, its a B&K 3090. It has the same triggering capabilities as yours.

My setup has a Panamax 1000+ powering my amp as well as some other components. The B&K is connected to the Panamax with its control out rca jack. The connector on the Panamax is a two-prong electrical plug. I made a cable from a junky old interconnect, with one end cut off and spliced, that fits to a female two prong electrical socket (watch the orientation of the two leads, won't hurt anything if you're wrong the first time). The information to build this came from Panamax themselves.

This is also a good thing in that the Panamax can turn off things that don't have a discreet off code like my Toshiba DVD player. Another added benefit is that equipment is covered with a warranty if hooked up correctly. There are also some power filtering going on, but I don't know if it provides any audible benefits. Bottom line, its a 100% solution.

This setup should be cheaper than the $300-$400 conditioners you mention. X10 probably isn't the greatest for this one. You'd have to get an X10 ir base and put the amp on a appliance module. It would just be another macro in you're pronto. Add even more $$$ if you need other X10 necessities (signal bridge, tranceiver, remote, etc). I've come home to my lights being on for no reason, other than an X10 issue, a few times. I don't want something going on with an expensive power amp.

Darren

[This message has been edited by schmidtdarren (edited 11-14-2000).]

[This message has been edited by schmidtdarren (edited 11-14-2000).]
post #6 of 14
If you go the X10 route, shop around. I have most of the lights in my apartment on X10. This really wasn't the plan but I ended up buying about $500 dollars worth of new X10 gear through Ebay for $80. Also try X10.com. They always have some deal going on. If you sign up for their email list they will email you almost every day though.

Good luck

Dave
post #7 of 14
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally posted by schmidtdarren:

This setup should be cheaper than the $300-$400 conditioners you mention. X10 probably isn't the greatest for this one. You'd have to get an X10 ir base and put the amp on a appliance module. It would just be another macro in you're pronto. Add even more $$$ if you need other X10 necessities (signal bridge, tranceiver, remote, etc). I've come home to my lights being on for no reason, other than an X10 issue, a few times. I don't want something going on with an expensive power amp.
The Panamax 1000+ lists for $299, I found it for as low as $249, but this is still in my pain threshold for a switch. Given the power filtering capabilities it might be worthwhile, but I'm still licking my wounds over what I spent on the processor and other additions to my HT, so I might be being a little penny-wise and pound foolish here.

The X10 solution I outlined above would work without the IR base. The powerflash module ($24-$29) accepts the 12V from the preamp, and addresses a X-10 appliance outlet. This outlet could switch off a power strip with all of the components without a discrete off code (I also got bit by the Toshiba DVD player's lack of a code), as well as the power amps.
I'm a little wary of X10 though because (a) I'm afraid that this could be the entry point to a very slippery slope that I will be powerless to resist :-) (b) I share you're concern about phantom triggering of the X10 appliance outlet. I know my neighbors well enough that I felt conflicts downstream of the transformer are pretty unlikely; I didn't realize that other sources of false triggering were common with these modules.
post #8 of 14
If you decide to go the Panamax route let me know. I can sell you one for $205.00 or the Monster HT reference 2500 for the same price. (Factory sealed.) The Monster is a better value IMO.
post #9 of 14
A nice thing about the Panamax is the delayed turn on feature. It makes sure the amps are the last things turned on and the first things turned off. This eliminates the loud "thump" that can occur if that sequence is not adhered to.
Steve
post #10 of 14
Thread Starter 
Couple of additional comments...

chumbley - I checked, and my amplifiers don't seem to have C, C++ or java compilers. Since I'm mainly a software guy it looks like I don't have the tools I need to perform any mods I'm qualified to make http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/smile.gif

The Panamax Max 1000+ is available for $161.95 from onecall.com ($186 shipped). I haven't checked with HTman to see if he'll match this price or not.

I guess I'm leaning towards a Panamax/Monster solution to this problem. The topic started out with the word "Cheap" in the title, so either my definition of "cheap" is changing to something I'm not sure my wife will be comfortable with http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/smile.gif, or everyone has convinced me of the merits of getting power filtration, as well as perhaps not using X10 for a task that may be inappropriate.

I like the Panamax because the form factor appears to be smaller and my closet is already getting crowded (at least I'm not picking based on color). I'm not qualified to evaluate these based on the market-speak of their respective web sites, so the main difference I notice is the Joule rating of these.

So... Can anyone comment on the quality of power filtration of these two?
Anyone have a good explanation on how to evaluate the Joule rating (a
unit of energy) for electrical devices (rated in units of power)?
I'm afraid that my physics education is failing me here, and I couldn't find a satisfactory explanation of how to determine appropriate Joule ratings for equipment, or what it really means on either web site.
post #11 of 14
Home Depot has a $30 (Canadian) device that'll do what you ask, I think. Problem is I can't recall who makes it!

It's just a little box that goes between the power cord for the device and the wall outlet and comes with a small IR remote.

If you *really* want me to, I'll go get the info for you.

------------------
John Golitsis
Next Big Thing Electronics
Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
http://www.nbtelectronics.com
post #12 of 14
Go for the Panamax Max 1000+. gives you multiple AC in, line filtering, and remote trigger capability. Provided your receiver has an AC in plug for the "trigger" 110 plug that comes off the Panamax. You can still use it for remote switching without that. In fact, I do with my Lexicon MC1. Of course, my trigger is a bit more complex in that I trigger two Proceed amps off the MC-1, AND the Max1000+ for the rest of my theater. Works like a champ. Not a scamp. http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/smile.gif

Lex

------------------
Lex and Daughters Theater:
Lexmans.Theater
post #13 of 14
$205 is not too shabby for a Panamax/Monster!

Don't get me wrong, I like X10 as much as the next guy. I'm controlling quite a few lights in my home, thats its purpose. I even have my fireplace firing up from it!

Think about how much you spent on the rest of the system. It would be nice to have a little piece of mind about how its connected power-wise. I just disagree with using X10 for this purpose.

Chumbley, I commend you for being an X10'er to the max, great hack!!! The only thing I would be concerned about is the component's warranty. Has it ever been phantom triggered?

Darren
post #14 of 14
The more sophisticated power conditioners and managers are definitely a nice thing to have, but if you are just looking for function, Niles and a few others like Xantech, etc. make simple little power blocks which can be triggered with any 12V signal. This can be used with either a true 12V trigger on a processor, or even be made by plugging in a 12V "wall wart" into a switched outlet. I don't recall the price off hand, but the switched power block by Niles is pretty reasonable IIRC.

Mark Seaton
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