I'm not saying that if you own speaker X, you must buy receiver Y. I'm saying that if you're buying a speaker which is difficult to drive, you'd better buy a receiver that can get the job done, or you're going to be buying more of both in the future.
Of course but that is not what you posted.
The specs WILL TELL you if the receiver can drive the speakers you own meaning you do not need to worry about receivers when buying speakers.
Also I have yet to find a receiver that couldnt drive normal speakers talked about daily on here..
Here is a list of speakers I currently own.
Onix Ref .5s
Polk, NXG, BIC, Klipsch in-ceiling (22 pairs).
Emotiva LMC-1 (pre/pro with outlaw monoblock)
so the range is all over the place and I have no problem driving any speaker with any receiver....
HONESTLY the OP will be buying more or less a similar speaker I own so lets just use some common sense and not debate that receivers are really going to matter.
What will matter is simply how much amps he will need but AS I posted that comes afterwards when he add separate amps because I would never buy an AVR and actually worry about he amps it produces period. If someone wants power, they should simply buy separate amps because overall they are better and their overall $$$ will be less then wasting it on an expensive AVR with crappy power still!
btw, that article doesnt really support your position and again there is NO RELATIONSHIP between specific receivers and specific speakers and the quote isnt scientific at all so I call it dumb placebo stuff.
We listen to speakers, find the right speakers THEN we go find the adequate power for them. You are saying we need to worry about the receiver during the testing and Im saying that is simply bogus! Actually its customer OVERLOAD so lets just call it stupid.