or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Home Entertainment & Theater Builder › Dedicated Theater Design & Construction › RPh Drew's Thread - Logan's Hero... for now...
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

RPh Drew's Thread - Logan's Hero... for now... - Page 2

post #31 of 1060
How about a 3-door sliding system, similar to what you see in some larger closets?
post #32 of 1060
should be able to do a roller blind...the kind that are usually found in offices but with black out material instead of the mesh. since you have light switches right near there, you should be able to get electric ones in there.

http://www.silentgliss.co.uk/go/Prod...+operated/4870

those might work (go through the gallery and can see examples)
post #33 of 1060
My first reaction to your issue would be to put pocket doors in. I see from your layout (switches on the left, exterior wall on the right?) that this is likely not an option. I looked into motorized drop down curtains a while back when I was considering making false walls for the back and right side of the theater. They seemed easy to put up and many were IR and RS232 controllable. Some were even battery operated. They were not cheap by any means though but still might be manageable considering the width and height of your space in question.
post #34 of 1060
Tough situation RPH,

Someone on the forum recently was looking for curtains that would go from the screen wall and stack to the sidewalls. Someone linked a curved traverse rod. My thought was that you could have a rod that goes from in front of the sliding doors and curves towards the side opening of your room. The rod can then be hidden by a well designed valance. Plenty of IR solutions so this is one possibility if you cant find a drop down solution which sounds pretty cool.
post #35 of 1060
Roll up garage door? Maybe use a soffit to hide it when raised. Cover the door in fabric maybe?
post #36 of 1060
Quote:
Originally Posted by RPh Drew View Post



Epson Pro 1080UB.
Ordered just before the expiration of the $200 rebate.

Nice projector choice there! Great Deck space too! Best of luck on your project.

Can anyone tell me whats the advantage of buying the $4000 Black Epson Pro 1080UB over the $3000 standard white 1080UB? All I could see from the specs on Epson's site is the extra bulb and the black finish, and I am not sure that's worth spending an extra $1000 on...are there any other superior technical features over the cheaper white model?
post #37 of 1060
The pro model comes with professional installation I believe.
post #38 of 1060
Thread Starter 
Ok, I should have thrown in one more requirement. I want to be able to sneak out through that opening during a movie to take a leak or grab a beer without having to use a motorized something to open the door. I was thinking with the roll up curtains there would still be two curtains you could "part" to slip through. That may put a dent in the roll up blind idea all together.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mn_hokie View Post

How about a 3-door sliding system, similar to what you see in some larger closets?

Yea, I may end up going this route but again not being able to "Pocket" them leaves 3 feet covered at all times.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronlinkous View Post

should be able to do a roller blind...the kind that are usually found in offices but with black out material instead of the mesh. since you have light switches right near there, you should be able to get electric ones in there.

They have some sweet rollers but again, my latest requirement may not work with this. Maybe roll up curtains (two pieces) as Hamster suggests might do the trick.

Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

Someone on the forum recently was looking for curtains that would go from the screen wall and stack to the sidewalls. Someone linked a curved traverse rod. My thought was that you could have a rod that goes from in front of the sliding doors and curves towards the side opening of your room.

I remember reading that post. I need full curtains for the sliding glass door as well. I just ran down there and the wall space between the glass door and the opening to the game room is only 2-3' AND has switches on it I would want to cover.

Curtains to cover both the triple slider and opening seems like such a good idea when they are covering the openings, but it is what to do with them when you want them open is the challenge.

Quote:
Originally Posted by In2Photos View Post

Roll up garage door? Maybe use a soffit to hide it when raised. Cover the door in fabric maybe?

Complete with a one-button GENE remote like in my car??? I could have probably pulled something like this off had I thought about it ahead of time...

Can you imagine a chain driven garage door opener raising a door to your theater??? Maybe if you were a NASCAR fan???

Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

Can anyone tell me whats the advantage of buying the $4000 Black Epson Pro 1080UB over the $3000 standard white 1080UB?

Check out the official Epson 1080UB thread in the $3k plus projectors. (Installation is not included.)
post #39 of 1060
Thread Starter 
Hey, forgot to say thanks to all that responded. It is great to be able to run ideas past everyone and think out loud if you will.

When I was planning the theater with curtains, I was thinking of parting them in the middle. Some curtain lady I spoke with said that heavy curtains can take up to 50% of the covered dimension to store.

9'/2 = 4.5'

part in the middle that make 2.25' per side to store and down to a 4.5' opening...

hmmmm

maybe thinner curtains?

Maybe pull all to one side then tie back with rope to minimize space required???

Ok, now I will go stare at it some more

thanks again.
post #40 of 1060
You could go completely retro and use beads! Just kidding. You could as you state use some type of roll up divider. I think I have actually seen on HGTV electrically operated curtains that in fact separated two different spaces. I would go that route if I were you to help keep the open feel.

Regards,

RTROSE
post #41 of 1060
You could try some custom version of these folding exterior wall/door systems, with solid panels. It would fold up to a much smaller space than curtains, provide an acoustic barrier, and allow you to open only one section (like a door) to come and go when the rest of it is closed.
post #42 of 1060
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BFauska View Post

You could try some custom version of these folding exterior wall/door systems, with solid panels. It would fold up to a much smaller space than curtains, provide an acoustic barrier, and allow you to open only one section (like a door) to come and go when the rest of it is closed.

Very cool. Just sent a request for a quote. I was thinking that one of the panels would need to be stationary but with these, all the panels fold.
post #43 of 1060
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RPh Drew View Post

Just sent a request for a quote.

Help, I've fallen and I can't get up...

$2,000+ PER PANEL!!! x 3 PANELS!!!

Ok, now the beads aren't seeming quite so crazy...

I could understand this (to a point) for exterior doors but not for interior ones.

I did a little extra research and there are several companies that make this type of door but they run upwards of $700-$1000 per linear foot you are trying to cover....

Ok, back to the drawing board.
post #44 of 1060
Hey, I ran across these IR controlled motorized curtain rods -- they look pretty nice. They can be center, left or right opening curtains.

http://www.powercurtain.com/product1_800.html

Wow, you have a lot of window light to contend with at the back of your theater ! If you have a movie going when the sun is still up, any time some goes out the back either thru a door or a split in the curtains you are gonna have a major light flood on your hands. You may need to form a light trap of some sort, maybe with a double row of curtains with ceiling mounted curtain tracks. The inner row right behind the riser has the pass thru to far left, the isle side. You turn a hard left (2nd row in front of you) as you exit & the other curtain wall is now on your right & the exit is ahead & to the right. This might provide enough trap for the sunlight, of course we are talking about floor to ceiling drapes with a valence at the top. Might need to provide some very small overhead lighting. Kinda like at the movie theater, where we usually exit to the rear down long hallways with sharp turns at the end. Light just can't make it around those corners very well. Does this make sense, maybe this is too involved to be practical ?

Here's a link to various manual curtain rods, wall & ceiling mountable;

www.recmar.com

John
post #45 of 1060
Thread Starter 
Ok, so I'm throwing in the towel on the curtains for now and moving on to trim. Pulled out the saw horses and layed out what needed to be painted only to find the sprayer I borrowed from a buddy doesn't work. Fairly new but looks like he doesn't take care of it.

Ok, plan B. Pull out the paint brush. Two coats of primer and two coats of paint later...

Looks ok, I guess. Was looking forward to using the sprayer. That is just for the HT. I still need to stain all the trim for the rest of the basement. Maybe tomorrow.

Wings won the game last night. A neighbor invited me and a few guys over to watch the game his deck. I thought, Ok. Grabbed a 6 pack and headed over.

He had pulled a 19" TV out on his deck...

Man, I really need to finish the theater. If I can just make it past Monday (game 5 where we will be winning Lord Stanley's Cup) without pulling out the PJ and unboxing the Berkliners I should be ok...

Man this is going to be tough.
post #46 of 1060
Thread Starter 
Ok, I made it through game 5... on the non-HD 37 incher... and we lost. (Red Wings for those of you new to the thread).

Game 6 was just too much...

I caved...

Pulled out the PJ... Un-boxed two of the Berkliners and practically rewired my house getting the satelite signal down there....

I just sprayed the picture on a gray wall in my game room...

Man... it was sweet...

Game 6... we won... hosited the cup... broke in the PJ and funiture...

I think I need a smoke... and I don't even smoke...

Ok game is over and everything is going back in the box... Yes even the recliners... back in there little bags and back in the box.

I un-rewired everything so it will be a pain in the a%% to do it again..

I think watching the game on just a gray wall that looked great is actually a little motivation to get back on the horse. I set the projector on the remaining 3 boxed recliners and put it behind me so I didn't have any specific size screen I was going for but it was probably around 70-80"...

Man, it was sweet. It was running on my non-HT satelite receiver with just an s-video connection and we were listening via a 13 inch tv speaker in the corner also connected to the satelite receiver...

If that was great, I can't wait to finish the real thing.

On a side note... Just ordered the Speakers last week and just got an e-mail that they are in. I will have them by this weekend but they are staying in the box as well. I purchased the speakers but not the receiver and other hardware as the speaker prices were going up 6/1.
post #47 of 1060
I think you are smart to unhook the system while you continue to work on it. A lesser man would have left it all connected and been sucked into watching movies and the like effectively stalling the project for many many months.
post #48 of 1060
Cathan -

Thanks a lot, buddy. You're not helping ME any with your advice. I'm trying to humilate him and you're giving him great advice to keep going. I had him on the ropes and then you come along and help him out. Looks like you babies have to gang up on me.

Did he listen to ME when I said he wouldn't be able to resist? NOOoooo........
post #49 of 1060
Thread Starter 
Man how time flies.* 4th of July weekend...* Week off work...So what happened over the week I was off.

Plan:*

First weekend, work on basement
Mon-Tue at lake
Wed home for a little more worky
Thur-Friday to Sat AM back at lake, drinking (4th of July stuff)
Sat -Mon* (yes not back to work until Tue) more work on basement

Actual progress:
First weekend:* Spent 16-20 hours moving workshop/tools from basement to garage.* Went through ever tool I own and cleaned and organized.* I had an extra 8 feet of depth built onto my garage so I made a 7x12 workshop* complete with cabinets. I can't believe how long it took but I can actually find everything now.* Did a little straightening in the garage atic but that is mostly still a mess.* Projector is back in the box as is the two reclinders I pulled out and cheated with...

Headed of the lake on Monday.* Did a little wake boarding behind my friends new boat, drank a few.* Came home Tuesday night.*

Wednesday went and picked up my last Berkliner.* Left it in the box.* Didn't accomplish much else

Thrusday went back to lake and injured lower back on wake board.... It still hurts (had to leave work early today...)* All other progress has come to a complete stop...Think I figured out my plan for the third row bar counter. Started to piece it together but I need some more lumber.* Planned to get it on the way home today but had to rush home for HIGH SPEED!!!*

Yes, no more lame excuses for not posting pictures.* I got HIGH SpEED today!!!* It is not warp speed but it seems like it comparted to what I had.* Spent the day today getting my network all set up.** I can now actually read/view more of the posts in here... (not sure if that is a good thing or not as I am sure it will slow me down.. some more).* I was all set to finish the riser after attaching the third row bar table then I saw the post with the wood trim running around the outter edge of the riser which I think looks cool so now I have to decide on that...Injuries stink* I just not as young as I used to be...
post #50 of 1060
Take that carcass off the, oh wait... Back injuries suck. Had time off last week too, originally was supposed to be back Tuesday as well, but I had to switch a day. You never seem to get as much done as you want or plan during vacation. Life just gets in the way or sometimes it's just tough to get motivated.

Good news on the high speed, but yes it could be trouble.
post #51 of 1060
Thread Starter 
Ok, been slacking a bit so time to get back at it. Now that I have high speed I can post a few more pics.

So, where did I start. The basement was a bit of a mess. I put the framing of the riser together and there it sat for a few weeks.



And this is how I cheated by getting two of my chairs out and hooking up the projector. Wasn't even in the theater rather just on the game room wall.



Just on the gray game room wall.



Now all the of the chairs are back in their boxes as is the projector.



Now did a bit of cleaning



And started with the framed riser. Note, used 2x12 ripped down to 9 &7/8" for outside edges and used 2x10's ripped down to 8 &1/4 with joist hangers for the inner joists. This would allow me to put 1/2 OSB on the bottom of the inner joists to create a cavity to fill with insulation while keeping the insulation (and the OSB) off the concrete.



I then went around and used the rubber uboats to level. The gets the wood off the concrete so I don't need to use treated and gets rid of any wabbles due to the uneven floor.



In cases where I didn't want the u-boat sticking out, I cut off one side. In two instances where the floor was slightly uneven, I actually cut off one side and put the remaining side under the joist rather than the base as it was thiner in certain areas. Note in the picture below of the intact u-boat that one side is slightly thicker than the other (left side slightly thicker). I slid them down the joist until they were snug.



Because I then wanted to flip the riser to attach the 1/2" OSB to the bottom, I predrilled the rubber then screwed them to the riser so they would not come off or shift. Everything was level with no tipping when you walked acrossed it and I wanted it to be that way when I put the riser back.



I then flipped the riser over (note, still in two pieces) and glued and screwed the OSB to the riser.



One down, one to go.



And second part done.



Then flipped back over and put into place. Getting very heavy...



Now I have a nice OSB bottom that is not touching the floor.

post #52 of 1060
Thread Starter 
I will have a third row bar with high stools. First the backer wall. I played with this awhile to get the height I wanted. Unfinished wall top to floor is 47". Width is 106.5"



Then the shorter wall that will support the back of the counter top. 39" leaves me 3" for support board and counter top to get me to 42" counter top height.



And now I am not sure what I want to do. I have seen some very sharp examples that are built just like this but I am thinking of making a change. This picture is looking from the game room into the back of the theater.



Rather than being able to see down behind the chairs on the riser, I am considering wrapping the bar or maybe just the framing and trim around the corner maybe 9-12 inches so you can't see behind the riser chairs from the game room view.

???

Now I will have supports for the bar countertop. What is seen above is only the framing for the rear support. building this little 9-12" wall on the end would also further support the bar from being able to be pushed toward the back of the theater. I wouldn't do it for the support alone as I can securely attached to the riser but I am thinking the wall wrapped around the corner might look sharp?

Have to sleep on this one a night or two.
post #53 of 1060
RP -

Nice pics! hope you like your new HIGH SPEED. Pretty ingenious way to get the OSB off the floor. Will consider that when I get around to it. Although my entire florr is dricore, so maybe that would be overkill. But there's nothing wrong with overkill, is there?

Keep up the good work!

You didn't nick up any of that nice wood floor did you?
post #54 of 1060
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

RP -You didn't nick up any of that nice wood floor did you?

Nope. Worked on the concrete in the theater so as not to mess it up. Still looks good but I do find myself sweeping it every time a little dust gets on it.
post #55 of 1060
Thread Starter 
So now I have to decide on the riser lighting. Was originally planning on rope lighting around the edge but now I am thinking the little rectangular boxes with louvers pointing down and just around the steps. I just threw a few pieces of OSB down on the riser and put 6 deck chairs on it to get a little feel of what it will look like.

This first picture is from the front corner of the room. Notice the temporary step on the left which faces the front of the room and the notched in step on the right side of this picture facing the side.



I am thinking I don't want to light the step facing the screen as I could reflect off the screen (although it could be off for the movie). It is the step facing the game room to the right in the above picture I am considering putting a light on.

He is a view from the game room.



I am just trying to decide where and how many lights to put in???

My intial thoughts are to put one in the upper step and one or two more on the side of the riser facing the game room.

I also am still not sure how to overlap the floor boards over the riser to wrap carpet around. Read several posts on rounding edges or even a separte board that is routed but can't make up my mind.

I also need to figure out where to put a dimmer for said riser lights. I am running 5 lutron dimmers with a master controled (theme setting) swich on the wall to the left of the seating facing foward. It is too late to wire the riser lighting power to the same location so I am considering putting it in the partial wall behind the second row that serves as the back of the bar.

Power for the riser. I think I will be running 3 outlets to the front of the riser for the front row of chairs (One for each chair and one convience in the middle). I am not running but kickers nor do they interest me so I am just running power for the chairs plus a few convience outlets. I am also running power up to the back row bar to plug the lap top in.

Now that I have sat in the make-shift chairs in the above pics, I don't think I am going to wrap the trim from the bar around the corner. When sitting in the second row, I want to have an open feel when informal sport watching and open communicaiton to someone in the game room and I think if I wrap the trim it will block this off.

Still considering if I want to cut out large holes in the front of each joist chamber to act as base traps.

I think the paralysis of analysis is getting to me.
post #56 of 1060
Thread Starter 
While contemplating the whole riser light issue, I thought I would tackle the theater lighting switches. The rest of the basement has been hot for a while but when I went to wire the theater switches, I realized I had the wrong ones. I didn't feel like going back to the idiot that sold them to me so I called Lutron directly and they swapped out two of them for me.

Anyway... I now have lights in the theater!!!



These are just temp lights as I don't have my sconces yet but the important things is that they work!!!... Not that I had much doubt... as I wired myself... but there was a little nervous tension as I flipped the breaker.

Switch bank - I have cat5e wire hanging out of the box as this is what will connect to a sensor in the front of the room. It was a tight squeeze to get it all in there as it was a fairly shallow box but with a little wire management and patience, it all fit.

post #57 of 1060
Thread Starter 
Well I am struggling with the riser steps so I moved on to the third row bar. When I originally designed, the riser was only supposed to be 6' deep. I exended to 7' which makes one of my convience plugs right in the wrong place. Notice it hiding behing the bar support.



Have not figured out what to do with that yet but here is the progress on the bar. Nothing is attached yet... just a test fit.



Each of the three seating spots has a 34 ish inch opening between the supports. Hopefully enought not to slam the knees on. The support for the back is 3.5" and the "legs come out 9.5" giving me 13" of support for what I plan to be a 16" deep counter.
post #58 of 1060
Did you leave any slack in the wire to that outlet. If you did you should be able to remove the recepticle and bang the box out with a 2x4. Then you could pull the wire foward and attach it to the bar support leg with a new box. By the looks of it you'll be able to do it as long as you have at least 6 inches of slack besides what's in the box.
post #59 of 1060
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

Did you leave any slack in the wire to that outlet.

I doubt I have that much slack. I remember pulling the wire. This box is fed from the left (convience plug on exterior wall over riser) and feeds the plug to the right (to the side of the sliding glass door). The feed comes around two corners of the bumped out wall so to keep things neat, they were wired a bit tight.

There is no way I would be able to fish wire around that double corner to pull a longer wire for either placement in the bar frame or just moving the plug to the right one stud.

The plug feeding this plug is also feeding the power to my riser. I may eliminate the feed to the problem plug and re-feed from the riser...

Thanks for the feedback.
post #60 of 1060
not as pretty as being hidden, but what if you just moved the outlet up to bar height, feeding off the one you have below?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
AVS › AVS Forum › Home Entertainment & Theater Builder › Dedicated Theater Design & Construction › RPh Drew's Thread - Logan's Hero... for now...