DIY Curved Screen with structural extruded aluminum metal framing - Page 4

I'll PM later you what pricing I got, that info is at home.

Took some digging thru my folders, but I found them.
I took these screen shots when I was making the screen, so the prices are 1.5 years old.
(I thought they were posted here already, oh well....)
20 x 20 profile:


30 x 30 profile:



Like I said in this thread, if I had to do it over I'd go with the 30x30.

fwiw I did post the above pricing on 6/2/08 (over 2 years ago) in this build thread, page 1 post #21 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post14000529 , titled "Adding budget info", seemed appropriate thread post to document facts.

Guess tmi in this build thread?
I tried to document it very clearly so others could....do their DIY thing.
Good luck others; document your steps/actions, take pictures, and post your build experiences.

and I got the idea from walking around work and seeing these sq tubing being used for test fixtures, it's original and main intent. 10' plus lengths in the supply room that barely flexed got my mind thinking.....We've used incredible huge profiles for super ridgid fmvss test fixtures, this stuff can be ordered in whatever your business need is.

Hopefully others can build on what I/others have did and improve and share.

Moggie;
I've NOT done anything with this, if/when I do I'd go to their shop and see their bend process prior to ordering my tubing for confidence.
Of course I'd take pictures to share with others while the shop does it's thing, to show results, good or bad.

One of my concerns was/is making sure the tube stays "square" total lengthwise as you look down it after bending, not sure if there was residue stress in the tube and if it would twist just slightly or what while going thru the bending.

If you are having trouble finding local shop to curve the alum extrusion, the other thing you can do, is make hybrid curved frame same as I did, flat extrusions and simple wood cut to length for support a curved thin wood baseboard mldg.
However, use Larrychief method of floating the DW laminate instead of fixing it to the frame, then what little the hybrid frame moves seasonally won't warp the laminate
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post17532402

Saw this at Home Depot, as lesson learned this curved screen method I used could work using this instead of the pine board for the curve backing.
Would need to test contact cement to laminate adhesion on a piece, but assuming that worked this would easily solve the small expansion/contraction by humidity.
For future other builders to consider.


I saw in the laminate thread a member painted the back of his laminate and stated that cured his humidity expansion/warping issue.
Still tbd on doing that for mine....I've got nothing to lose by trying it though....

[edit]
I will be applying water based dead flat varnish, should 100% seal it from moisture.


If I don't do it this weekend, then after Superbowl weekend I'll apply 2 coats to the backside.
Timely to do this, because I'm finally doing the HT acoustics, and its been on my docket for 2 years now to stuff the backside with Roxul Rockboard 60, Mineral Wool Board, 2 inch thick, possible 4-6" on the ends (very similar acoustic properties as OC 705 w/o itchies)
(this is 2+ year old pict)

Update: Between Saturday and Sunday I just got done putting (4) coats of varnish on the back of the screen AND the pine boards I used for the curve, all 3 exposed sides of the pine boards coated.
I'm actually cautiously optimistic that this will keep the humidity induced warpage away. If you seal out the moisture, the boards/and or the laminate should not warp.
frank1940 - thx.
Until Late June/Early July won't know, I'll report back then.




Come Wed I'll be getting (6) pcs of 2' x 4' Roxul Rockboard 60, Mineral Wool Board, 2 inch thick. That is going in back of the screen, attached to the frame, to absorb low freq. Then, the screen is going back on the wall.

This past weekend continuing with improving the HT acoustics, I put (6) sheets of 2" thick 2' x 4' Roxul Rockboard on my screen to make is a "dead zone" instead of a resonance/reflection zone.
http://www.atsacoustics.com/item--Ro...f-6--RB60.html

I used Roxul Rockboard instead of OC705 because I am NOT going to cover it, so did not want itchy stuff.

This was on my "to do" list for almost 2 years.....finally did it this weekend.

This is on back of my DIY screen, there is a controlled 3/4" gap to the screen via the metal plates I added for supporting, secured the panels by suspended ceiling 14ga wire.
#1


Final product done and secured, the outside portion has (2) 2" thick 2 ' x 4'pieces fitting, the inside 1 due to screen curve allows more on outside.
#2


It's also with about a 3" air gap to the wall now.
#3


#4


screen hung, btw It's also 50 lbs heavier.....my wife complained I'm "slaving her" with all this heavy lifting.:
#5

(that's my acoustic cloud I'm making just today, i was not there when I did the Audyessy re-run)

I immediately could tell improved bass, I've not taken REW plots yet, but I did re-run my Audyessy and it shows how its EQ is applied, look at the before/after for the center channel!
Yes, I was very careful about having my mic in repeatable positions as well for before/after check..
Before:
#6


After:
#7

Just adding my experience here.

Go with the 30 x 30 profile, not the 20 x 20 like I did.
Sure, it costs a few $ more, however when I put the extra weight onto the whole frame for the acoustic treatment I did notice the frame itself visibilly flexed when lied down - the screen flattened close to "straight", hanging there is no flex in the horizontal plane, its level the whole 10 feet width.
(look at pict#2 above, you can visually see it)
Nothing got damaged, but carrying additional 50lbs was not part of my design parameter when I started this.
I do recommend EVERYONE who builds a curved screen to do acoustic treatment behind it, either on wall or on screen.
You'd be suprised how much bass improvement you'll have.

Ok - score one for H20 molecules getting into wood when I had thought the back was so coated per what I did Jan/Feb this year..

I notice earlier this week "humidity induced warpage" has returned.

I've done all I could do, so my next thing for permanant solution will be to router out the lamiante and get some AT screen material and put that on.
It won't bow/buckle when the very slight warpage happens.

I'm a perfectionist, you don't notice it at all while viewing...but the AT material will fix that, plus as a bonus I'll have better acoustics in the HT also via less sound reflections.

For now I have no plans to get speakers for mounting behind the screen, I don't have enough room for that.

Bummer thing is this weekend I'm hosting a HEMI meet, and now this crops up just days before......
Spring HEMI Meet - Saturday May 14th

Thx Nick - We all take pride in trying to do our best, making something "correct".
In this case quickly sharing this info with others in the avs community hopefully will help them not repeat same issue.
Larry made laminate curved screen with floating laminate method instead of fixed based on my feedback.
He visited my HT before making his screen, therefore I had his direct contact info, and got him 2 weeks before he made his screen, so he revised the method with good countermeasure.

Imagine this: if you took a slightly over 4 feet tall x 10 feet wide piece of posterboard and pushed it "in" either height wise or width wise you can imagine just slight movement and it will buckle outta plane, that's what happens here....add that to the DFEMA for laminate builds, floatable mounting to absorb slight movement of the base frame.

I know we'll still have a good HT meet Saturday...rain or shine.....slight screen buckle non-withstanding....

Hey Greg, wish I had that info back in January, anyway I've concieded the warpage issue as Lesson Learned.

I'm going to the DIY screen section and pick experts brains there on cloth based + painted special mix solution.
(posted here Fixing my 130" DIY curved screen: going from DW Laminate to some painted/cloth screen
I'll salvage this metal/wood curved frame via router the lamiante away, .
(don't laugh, I grew attached to the screen, yea its a inamiate object but still to this day I'm amazed at the picture)

I was thinking AT cloth (seymour/etc) screen, but with my Sony VW60 PJ not being a light cannon I don't want any additional light loss that an AT screen gives.
This will be my 4-5 year solution, I'm waiting for 3D LED PJ's to come to market at acceptable price points (under $5k).

Then I'll do 30x30 bosch curved alum + AT screen.
(and make a new build thread)