2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 500

What?! For the 61/67A750?? The 1005.3 FW has been on their site as a download since May of 2008!! Either you've been looking at the wrong website or you're just coming out of a 4 year coma

As for waiting on your TV to arrive, what exactly do you mean? Repairs or you just buy it? If you just bought it (obviously not new), there's a good chance it already has a FW more recent than 1005.3 installed on it already.

Hey everyone. I've had the 67" version of this tv for over 2-3 years now. I just received a message on the tv stating "Check Fan No.3." Does anyone know where I can get a replacement fan if it's gone bad? Does anyone know how to replace them?

Well, I opened the tv up and cleaned out the minimal dust, but the fan still makes a sound. Atleast the set works. I found some links to get a new fan and I'll buy if I need to.

I guess that didn't work. I got the same "Check fan no.3" message and the tv turns itself off from what I'm assuming is due to prevent overheating. I'll have to buy one of those fans and try to switch it out.

Im having the same problem as jimmypic. It won't turn on just blinking lights on the right and won't quit till you unplug it. Please help! I love this tv.

So i found how to test power supply. My next question is how much voltage is too much to the sub power supply. Only thing i can find is 220+ i have over 300 and 0 coming out of sub. I ordered new sub but wanted to make sure that much voltage would not damage the new sub.

Up to 400 VDC is safe. Anywhere between 220-400V is ideal according to the service manual.

FYI the new sub should output between 12-16V to the LED driver.

Thanks for the reply now if i could get that sub power. It was suppose to be here on feb 21 but still not here. No big tv stinks. I went to look at new tv's but in my opinion they don't make any that compare to this one right now.

It is remarkable this thread lives!

Our 2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP is still going strong (knock on wood!); and despite newer sets, it remains the preferred choice for viewing blu-ray movies.

Thanks for continuing to help each other!

Hey guys!

I have very happily owned my HL61A750 since 2008 and it has been an awesome experience. Whenever friends are over, they are blown away by the quality when we hook up the 360/PS3.

Been thinking that I really want to make the jump to 3D now. I'm very to new to the concept, but I've read that this set is 3D ready? A lot of conflicted answers out there that say the Mitsubishi starter kits, some don't. Can anyone tell me exactly what I need?

I have:

PS3 (newest firmware already installed)
HDMI's
HL61A750 (original firmware, I have no idea what it is or how to check)
3D games/Blu-Rays

Will this kit work with my setup? http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Box-Mits...item3a70eb8cbe

Many thanks in advance guys

Well Samsung stretched the 3D Ready a bit and ended up not really providing much support for the early adopters of this set. Mitsubishi picked up the 3D ball for their customers as well as making it useable for the Samsung owners at the same time. You would need to research the opinions of the Samsung users who have purchased that kit to determine if it will provide you with a satisfactory result. The 3D format utilized is called checkerboard.

I utilize a 3D processing system developed by 3DVIP/3DNow called the 3D Theater but I can tell you that it will not function properly with my Samsung DLP set as it will not maintain frame lock with the 3D frame packed signal. The Theater otherwise works great with my Panasonic and Acer projectors.

When the 3D signal is momentary synced for a few minutes it is indeed a great 3D picture until it drifts out and begins ghosting. This continues in a regular pattern throughout the viewing session going from great to bad.

It will probably not have this issue utilizing a checkerboard 3D signal. Main thing at this point is how much longevity you will have for your investment.
The HL61A750 will only accept an 60hz 3D frame pack signal but as stated earlier the frame lock is the main issue.

Read these threads:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1280874

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post20584508

Read the balance of the thread above since only adapters manufactured before a certain date will work with this [procedure.

So I'm guessing the sub is on backorder. Im going to try to repair it myself. Does anyone know if the 3.15 amp fuse is a slow blow or fast acting on the sub power supply. I ordered both but dont know which to use?

Thanks.

Wow, sounds totally unreliable. So I basically have to "hack" my TV's EDID? So there is a certain kit that will work without the mod? How can you tell which ones they are? Is there a give away such as a certain UPC or serial, etc?

I don't know why it sounds unreliable to you? I hacked my HLT-6187s and it took about 5 minutes after getting the parts and software. My set (older than yours) has been in 3D ever since using the 3DA-1 adapter. Don't be afraid, just read up on it and follow the step by step directions. It is really simple once you actually do it. You will be amazed by the quality of the 3D produced by these sets.

Also - don't get anything with an emitter or IR glasses. On these sets DLP link glasses are the only type I'd recommend.

As for the 3DA-1 without a hack - It looks like Jan 2011 is the last working build date. You need to get one built in Jan 11 or earlier if you want it to work without the EDID change. Good luck finding one with an early build date.

Great thanks for the info- what DLP link glasses do you recommend for this set?

I thought that hacking is not needed as Mits. is now selling their box that will work with the Samsungs.

3DC-100S

http://hothardware.com/News/Mitsubis...Samsung-HDTVs/

The 3DC-100S doesn't need to be hacked, the 3DA-1 does. A lot of us were doing this before the 3DC-100S was available. I haven't seen a 3DC-100S available recently, and when it is the cost is outrageous. You will probably have better luck finding an older 3DA-1 that doesn't need a hack.

As for the glasses I use Ultra Clears. They aren't perfect but they are affordable.

Another happy user of the 61A750. Still going strong with zero issues. After having an HLR6167 replaced by factory, followed by that HLS6168 also being replaced by the 61A750, very pleased.

Hello All!

Sorry to come to the party so late, so to speak.

For what it's worth, it seems my HL61 unit has an even NEWER firmware than the 1005.3 - according to the OPTIONBYTE section of the Service Screen (Steps:

Start with tv off
Press Mute
Press 1, 8, 2
Press Power)

my unit has a firmware of T-AQMAUSC-1006.1 (2008-04-30)

where the 1005.3 shows
T-AQMAUSC-1005.3 2008-04-17

And my HL67 has an even newer version than that! 1007.4 2008-09-19

I got the blasted HL & LN series mixed up and got all excited that I could actually stream to the units - MAJOR bummer when I realized my mistake

Not doing the 3D bit with mine (screws with my eyes too much), so that's not a big deal to me, but I am disappointed that the USB will only display images and music, not video (and I'm not a console gamer so I don't have one of those).

Guess I'll have to find a good BR player that will stream (any ideas!?)

Just get a ps3 then you have both. It's still one of the best blu ray players out there.

I can't see what's wrong with doing what I did; forget Mitsubishi and going with a Panasonic blu-ray player for 3D. At least it works for 3D discs, less complex to install and less expensive. Separate 3D glasses required.

Well after waiting 6 weeks for the sub power i tried to fix it myself. The big 450v capacitor had a bulge on top so i was hoping that was it but after waiting a week for that installed it still no power out of sub.

I also replaced the sub power supply on mine. No dice either. Looks like its the SMPS, LED Assembly or LED Driver. Might be time to pull the plug. :-(

So did you buy a new sub power or used. I've been waiting almost two months now and can't get one. did you check voltage out of sub to led driver ?

Bought it new from Part Simple, last one in stock. I didn't check the voltage, seemed like an easy fix to my issue, but unfortunatellly,it wasn't the issue in this case. Email me and maybe we can work something out for the part, if your interested.

Well after 2 months i got the new sub power supply and the tv is working great. I wanted to thank this site and anyone that has something to do with it. I have learned alot about tv's and will continue to check back.

HI--I have noticed that the closed captioning on my TV gradually fades and brightens. The brightness and contrast of picture does not appear to change - just the cc.

Is this due to some auto-picture setting or should I be concerned about an impending component failure.

Is there anything that I should be doing to prevent waking up one day to no picture?

Hey guys. I was actually able to keep my 61A750 after all I recently purchased a Panasonic 3D DMP-BDT210. From what I've read about these players, they support checkerboard 3D. My question is, if I hook this up to my 61A750, and have a couple pairs of dlp link glasses, will I need anything else to make the 3d work, or do I still need some sort of adapter? Thanks