Originally Posted by jimmypic001
Bought it new from Part Simple, last one in stock. I didn't check the voltage, seemed like an easy fix to my issue, but unfortunatellly,it wasn't the issue in this case. Email me and maybe we can work something out for the part, if your interested.
Hi, it has been some time since I looked around the DLP thread... I had made a thread on the HL61 series power supplies and fixing issues.
The sub power supply is very robust and rarely fails on its own.
The main supply is the heart of every component. If it should go bad, you may have issues with the main board, or DMD.
As for fans... 1,2, and 3 have voltages fed by the main power supply which is enabled and monitored from the DMD, the main board routes the power to the DMD.
Most likely your fan went bad or just needs a good cleaning, as dust will cause restriction in flow or may make the bearing seize.
My tv was fairly clean, but removal of the fans and a good blowing out was needed. Be sure to blow out the heat sink also.
A way to check the voltages on the main power supply is to short (jumper) the two jumper wires along the side of the connector for voltages that feed the main board. It will enable the power supply to operate without the main board and power button to be connected.
It is fairly simple, just remove the main board assembly by removing the two screws that hold it in place, and disconnecting the power cable from the DMD and disconnect the flat cable at the main board and unclasp the hold-down. Be careful about the flat cable, as it has very small release arms and can break the connector if forced or bent. Just press firmly on the release buttons and the cable should be free to remove. When installing, listen for two clicks and be sure to align straight.
Just be sure to be careful when removing the speaker and power button cables at the front corner as it is a tight fit.
Once you slide out the unit, you will have a good way of testing the power supply as it is secure and isolated. Never short the two jumpers on the outer side of the connector while the cable is still connected at the main board (below the power supply, inside the metal chassis). Else you will feed voltage to the main board.
You can remove the AC input connector from the tv so you can bench test. I use one of the screws to mount the ground wire eyelet to the metal chassis of the main board and power supply.
You should be able to use the disconnected connector to probe the voltages with a voltmeter.
The voltages on the outputs should be clearly marked along the side of the connector. 5.6v for the main board to function, 5v for the standby power to operate and turn on tv, 12 volts for main board and fans, 16.3v for DMD, Tuner, and Audio amp.
As for the Sub power supply, I get 330 volts being fed.
Note: That is it is 330v DC and will be active and will take 30 minutes to dissipate on its own when bench testing voltages. Also the SMPS connector must be installed behind the AC input when viewing from the back of the tv.