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2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 501

post #15001 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

Hey guys. I was actually able to keep my 61A750 after all I recently purchased a Panasonic 3D DMP-BDT210. From what I've read about these players, they support checkerboard 3D. My question is, if I hook this up to my 61A750, and have a couple pairs of dlp link glasses, will I need anything else to make the 3d work, or do I still need some sort of adapter? Thanks

Technically, that's all you need to watch 3D Blu-Rays.
post #15002 of 15631
You don't need an emitter for DLP link glasses.
post #15003 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulGo View Post

You don't need an emitter for DLP link glasses.

Will the XPand 103's work ok without an emitter?
post #15004 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

Will the XPand 103's work ok without an emitter?

Xpand 103's are not DLP Link glasses, they are IR and need an emitter. You want Xpand 102's, they are DLP Link. Actually, I'd recommend Ultra Clears DLP link glasses, as they are much more affordable.
post #15005 of 15631
If you get DLP link glasses be sure to put your TV into 3D mode 2. Mode 1 is for IR glasses.
post #15006 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmypic001 View Post

Bought it new from Part Simple, last one in stock. I didn't check the voltage, seemed like an easy fix to my issue, but unfortunatellly,it wasn't the issue in this case. Email me and maybe we can work something out for the part, if your interested.

Hi, it has been some time since I looked around the DLP thread... I had made a thread on the HL61 series power supplies and fixing issues.

The sub power supply is very robust and rarely fails on its own.

The main supply is the heart of every component. If it should go bad, you may have issues with the main board, or DMD.

As for fans... 1,2, and 3 have voltages fed by the main power supply which is enabled and monitored from the DMD, the main board routes the power to the DMD.

Most likely your fan went bad or just needs a good cleaning, as dust will cause restriction in flow or may make the bearing seize.

My tv was fairly clean, but removal of the fans and a good blowing out was needed. Be sure to blow out the heat sink also.

A way to check the voltages on the main power supply is to short (jumper) the two jumper wires along the side of the connector for voltages that feed the main board. It will enable the power supply to operate without the main board and power button to be connected.

It is fairly simple, just remove the main board assembly by removing the two screws that hold it in place, and disconnecting the power cable from the DMD and disconnect the flat cable at the main board and unclasp the hold-down. Be careful about the flat cable, as it has very small release arms and can break the connector if forced or bent. Just press firmly on the release buttons and the cable should be free to remove. When installing, listen for two clicks and be sure to align straight.

Just be sure to be careful when removing the speaker and power button cables at the front corner as it is a tight fit.

Once you slide out the unit, you will have a good way of testing the power supply as it is secure and isolated. Never short the two jumpers on the outer side of the connector while the cable is still connected at the main board (below the power supply, inside the metal chassis). Else you will feed voltage to the main board.

You can remove the AC input connector from the tv so you can bench test. I use one of the screws to mount the ground wire eyelet to the metal chassis of the main board and power supply.

You should be able to use the disconnected connector to probe the voltages with a voltmeter.

The voltages on the outputs should be clearly marked along the side of the connector. 5.6v for the main board to function, 5v for the standby power to operate and turn on tv, 12 volts for main board and fans, 16.3v for DMD, Tuner, and Audio amp.

As for the Sub power supply, I get 330 volts being fed.

Note: That is it is 330v DC and will be active and will take 30 minutes to dissipate on its own when bench testing voltages. Also the SMPS connector must be installed behind the AC input when viewing from the back of the tv.
post #15007 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulGo View Post

If you get DLP link glasses be sure to put your TV into 3D mode 2. Mode 1 is for IR glasses.

Yep, also don't forget to rename HDMI #3 input to "PC".
post #15008 of 15631
I'm normally one of the dispensers of advice here, but now I'm asking for it.

Has anyone managed to permanently adjust the VGA (PC) input's sharpness control?

Using the Expert Setting SM sub menu, it can be temporarily manipulated. Unfortunately sharpness will then always regress back to a grayed out "20" within the user menu.

Running on 1005.3 FW. Already aware that the newer firmwares will default the VGA sharpness setting also.

The main reason why I want this so bad is because I own an old XB360 with no HDMI output. There is a slight image blurring & ghosting effect while outputting 1080p via component (720p/1080i is perfectly clear..so no fault of the cable). VGA does not have the ghosting issue, yet image quality is way too soft, causing the graphics to look flat and boring.

If anyone knows of a hidden work-around to get that sharpness bumped up a bit (or alternately, edge enhancement forced on) I'd be very happy to be clued in. ...Rather not buy an HDMI equipped XB360 despite them being dirt cheap these days.
post #15009 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by taz291819 View Post

Yep, also don't forget to rename HDMI #3 input to "PC".

Don't have to do that if "PC Mode Ident" is set to Enable instead of Auto. It's number 14 under the Option Byte category of the SM.
post #15010 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by KewlK View Post

I'm normally one of the dispensers of advice here, but now I'm asking for it.

Has anyone managed to permanently adjust the VGA (PC) input's sharpness control?

Using the Expert Setting SM sub menu, it can be temporarily manipulated. Unfortunately sharpness will then always regress back to a grayed out "20" within the user menu.

Running on 1005.3 FW. Already aware that the newer firmwares will default the VGA sharpness setting also.

The main reason why I want this so bad is because I own an old XB360 with no HDMI output. There is a slight image blurring & ghosting effect while outputting 1080p via component (720p/1080i is perfectly clear..so no fault of the cable). VGA does not have the ghosting issue, yet image quality is way too soft, causing the graphics to look flat and boring.

If anyone knows of a hidden work-around to get that sharpness bumped up a bit (or alternately, edge enhancement forced on) I'd be very happy to be clued in. ...Rather not buy an HDMI equipped XB360 despite them being dirt cheap these days.

I have been testing with my old laptop that has both Component and VGA DB15 connections.

The sharpness detail at various modes can be due to drivers and settings. I have an ATI card so I been using Catalyst control panel for all my settings.

I have noted that there are a few display modes that are not listed in the Samsung manual or support site.

The tv can accept PAL signals through VGA connection and some modes will be not as sharp depending on refresh, size and video card driver capabilities.
post #15011 of 15631
Has anyone added ambient lighting behind their sammy? I've heard of using rope light, or cold cathode tubes, but just wondering if any of you have done this?
post #15012 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by detroit_fan View Post

Has anyone added ambient lighting behind their sammy? I've heard of using rope light, or cold cathode tubes, but just wondering if any of you have done this?

I've used a CinemaQuest Ideal Lume for years now. Costs more than any of the LED versions, but the output is adjustable using a shutter system. Unlike most LEDs, these fluorescent tubes are made to project light in the 6500K range, with a 90 C.R.I. rating. unit comes complete with a mountable bracket you can attach to the wall or use the included velcro pads to attach it to the TV cabinet.
post #15013 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by detroit_fan View Post

Has anyone added ambient lighting behind their sammy? I've heard of using rope light, or cold cathode tubes, but just wondering if any of you have done this?

I have, and LOVE it! I am at work so I can't say exactly which one I have. IIRC, I bought it used from one of you on this thread. I can look tonight. But if you do a search of the thread using keywords of "light" and "postage", or posts by me yup should find it.

Works really well in a totally dark room.
post #15014 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Bailey View Post

I've used a CinemaQuest Ideal Lume for years now. Costs more than any of the LED versions, but the output is adjustable using a shutter system. Unlike most LEDs, these fluorescent tubes are made to project light in the 6500K range, with a 90 C.R.I. rating. unit comes complete with a mountable bracket you can attach to the wall or use the included velcro pads to attach it to the TV cabinet.

Thanks
post #15015 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Tech View Post

I have been testing with my old laptop that has both Component and VGA DB15 connections.

The sharpness detail at various modes can be due to drivers and settings. I have an ATI card so I been using Catalyst control panel for all my settings.

I have noted that there are a few display modes that are not listed in the Samsung manual or support site.

The tv can accept PAL signals through VGA connection and some modes will be not as sharp depending on refresh, size and video card driver capabilities.

My current PC has an integrated Radeon HD ATI 3300 which is fine for my needs.. I did have a much better card, an HD 4890, but it croaked last year due to stress fractured GPU joints. Need to reball it sometime (already have the correct stencils).

I love ATi's CCC, awesome software. It's very rare that a TV or monitor intended for the NTSC/ATSC market can accept a 50Hz signal through any input. So that's great to know that at least VGA can do it. ....Too bad HDMI, component, s-video, & composite can't.

Still, when it comes to using the XB360 with VGA, I just wish there was a way to trick the service menu into retaining higher values than 20 for sharpness. It actually works while you're within the SM, but then then sharpness is automatically defaulted to 20 again..so irritating.
post #15016 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by KewlK View Post

The main reason why I want this so bad is because I own an old XB360 with no HDMI output. There is a slight image blurring & ghosting effect while outputting 1080p via component (720p/1080i is perfectly clear..so no fault of the cable). VGA does not have the ghosting issue, yet image quality is way too soft, causing the graphics to look flat and boring.

Thought of a workaround. I could try using a VGA to HDMI converter box. That way I'll have all the flexibility of HDMI user controls at my disposal. Now hopefully the converter box can perform the analog->digital conversion without introducing any artifacts. If not, that would lead me right back to square one.
post #15017 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by detroit_fan View Post

Has anyone added ambient lighting behind their sammy? I've heard of using rope light, or cold cathode tubes, but just wondering if any of you have done this?

I found it. It's a Cinema Quest. Here's the link to it, http://www.cinemaquestinc.com/ideal_lumesb.htm

It's the Standard. I'm pretty sure it the same one Lee is talking about.
post #15018 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominic26 View Post

I found it. It's a Cinema Quest. Here's the link to it, http://www.cinemaquestinc.com/ideal_lumesb.htm

It's the Standard. I'm pretty sure it the same one Lee is talking about.

Thanks, appreciate it.
post #15019 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Tech View Post

I have been testing with my old laptop that has both Component and VGA DB15 connections.

.................

I have noted that there are a few display modes that are not listed in the Samsung manual or support site.

Decided to tinker around with the VGA input and PC today. Typing this right now in 1280x768@75Hz (which the Samsung rescales to 1024x768@75Hz).

It seems to be the most usable supported 75Hz resolution considering proper aspect ratio and total pixel fill within Wide TV mode.

Neat to see this with video playback, so silky smooth, but I will definitely be going back to digital with this TV. Despite the 60Hz cap, PQ via HDMI is much crisper regardless of selected res/frequency.

Even if I select the preset Standard or Dynamic picture modes to do a "quick 'n dirty" bump up of the defaulted VGA sharpness levels (28 & 75).....neither compare to the clarity of the HDMI or even component inputs. ..So this Samsung does fall short in that regard.

VGA is actually very capable of looking just as immaculate as HDMI (it's up to equipment quality). Unfortunately here it is too soft with no way to sharpen it short of tinkering with fancy pre-processing software. This TV's DB15 input should have been engineered to provide better image fidelity, in my opinion.
post #15020 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by KenWH View Post

I've got Directv sat running via component vid/stereo rca audio. Basically it sounds like a cd skipping. It's extremely brief...usually the skip just cuts a single word in half in the dialog. Seems to happen at regular intervals of 3 minutes but sometimes it will wait up to 5 minutes between skips.

I don't think this is the same dropout issue(which lasts much longer) that some are having. However, I did read in one of the A750 threads here that someone else is having the same "skip" in sound that I'm getting so I'm not the only one.

edit:
Thanks Samhung...I believe it was your posts I read about the "skip". Maybe it's the rca inputs?

Hi, I'm reaching wayyy back here...but very curious if you had ever found a solution to this issue? Literally just noticed the problem.

I believe that it is probably a common quirk with these particular Sammy models, but most people just don't catch it.

The component inputs (and VGA) are affected at *ALL* SD and HD resolutions. The HDMI ports and ATSC/NTSC tuner never have any sound drop-offs...still have yet to test the s-video and composite inputs.

Running 1005.3 firmware. Curious to know if flashing to 1006.1 and/or 1007.4 is known to lick the issue?
post #15021 of 15631
The newer firmware is not available for download. It was only available on set that came with it from the factory.
post #15022 of 15631
This is gonna be a stupid-sounding question, but my wife and I both are having some physical problems and I cant move the tv right now.

Is there a headphone jack on the back of the tv? If so, where is it? Also, if there is a jack, can a headphone be left plugged in but still have the ability to switch back and forth between the tv speakers and the headphones by using the remote?
post #15023 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulGo View Post

The newer firmware is not available for download. It was only available on set that came with it from the factory.

Already realize that Paul, but I'm also aware that some of our fellow thread members do in fact have file dumps of 1007.4 So the update is unofficially available.

EDIT, CORRECTION: I was mistaken about 1007.4 dumps floating around. The only way to upgrade (at this time) would be to perform a NAND swap on the main board. Besides, 1007.4 has its own slew of issues (mainly service menu based). Sticking with 1005.3
post #15024 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by yankeeman View Post

This is gonna be a stupid-sounding question, but my wife and I both are having some physical problems and I cant move the tv right now.

Is there a headphone jack on the back of the tv? If so, where is it? Also, if there is a jack, can a headphone be left plugged in but still have the ability to switch back and forth between the tv speakers and the headphones by using the remote?

No headphone jack, optical output only.
post #15025 of 15631
Concerning the random sound skipping on component and VGA sources:

Pulled the AC on all equipment overnight for a hard reset. Did not help whatsoever.

Just verified that composite video is also afflicted by the random audio drop-outs. S-video has not been tested, but it's safe to say now that all analog inputs have the problem.

The easiest way for me to readily detect the issue is to either play Ridge Racer 6 for the XB360 or Ridge Racer 7 / PS3 (yes I still have the forwards-compatible PS2 component video cable).

Listen carefully to the annoying techno music...you'll find that approx every three minutes, practically like clockwork, there will be a brief skip in audio. At least I can't detect any frame drop.

I personally don't consider it a major issue, but still rather disappointing. This is something that should have been nipped during initial product prototype testing. I really want to know if any of you running 1007.4 have the issue? There is at least one individual in this thread who is experiencing it with 1006.1

EDIT: Also wanted to mention that ALL video processing modes are affected: Dynamic, Standard, & Movie....along with Entertainment: Game, Sports, & Cinema.

I'll probably end up either rerouting all my analog signals through HDMI converters, or simply patching the RCA stereo jacks directly to my surround system (bypassing the TV's sound inputs entirely).
post #15026 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by putox1051 View Post

No headphone jack, optical output only.

Thanks, i was afraid of that. I am moving to a condo of 55+ people, and am considering not using the surround-sound system as they probably would kick me out if i did!!!!

Is there a place for one of the soundbars to plug into on this set? I could get one without a separate sub-woofer, and while it wont give me great sound, it probably would improve the standard sound from the set's speakers.
post #15027 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by yankeeman View Post

Thanks, i was afraid of that. I am moving to a condo of 55+ people, and am considering not using the surround-sound system as they probably would kick me out if i did!!!!

Is there a place for one of the soundbars to plug into on this set? I could get one without a separate sub-woofer, and while it wont give me great sound, it probably would improve the standard sound from the set's speakers.

In addition to the optical 5.1 output the TV also has the old standard Right and Left analog stereo outputs which could be used for a pair of headphones.
post #15028 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by Davidfernst View Post

In addition to the optical 5.1 output the TV also has the old standard Right and Left analog stereo outputs which could be used for a pair of headphones.

Yes, he could buy an RCA L/R male to 3.5mm female minijack Y adapter -or- a toslink male to 3.5mm female converter. Problem is that the volume level is fixed. He'd have to additionally patch an "in line volume control". Everything is real cheap.
post #15029 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by yankeeman View Post

Thanks, i was afraid of that. I am moving to a condo of 55+ people, and am considering not using the surround-sound system as they probably would kick me out if i did!!!!

Is there a place for one of the soundbars to plug into on this set? I could get one without a separate sub-woofer, and while it wont give me great sound, it probably would improve the standard sound from the set's speakers.

See my previous post. Have your solution.
post #15030 of 15631
Thanks to all you guys for the help.
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