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2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 502

post #15031 of 15630
Quote:
Originally Posted by KewlK View Post

Already realize that Paul, but I'm also aware that some of our fellow thread members do in fact have file dumps of 1007.4 So the update is unofficially available.

EDIT, CORRECTION: I was mistaken about 1007.4 dumps floating around. The only way to upgrade (at this time) would be to perform a NAND swap on the main board. Besides, 1007.4 has its own slew of issues (mainly service menu based). Sticking with 1005.3

I down graded my firmware some time ago... I had 1006.x and went to the firmware on the Samsung site, which is 1.005.3.

For me it was an improvement though IIRC I can't remember the details, though I was able to get my tv's iris to lock with my calibration mode without need to use IR codes to go get out of service mode (AGEING).

So far I was the only one to do such a thing. It was pure luck and I may have forgotten a step to lock it in after adjustment.
post #15032 of 15630
Quote:
Originally Posted by KewlK View Post

I'm normally one of the dispensers of advice here, but now I'm asking for it.

Has anyone managed to permanently adjust the VGA (PC) input's sharpness control?

Using the Expert Setting SM sub menu, it can be temporarily manipulated. Unfortunately sharpness will then always regress back to a grayed out "20" within the user menu.

Running on 1005.3 FW. Already aware that the newer firmwares will default the VGA sharpness setting also.

The main reason why I want this so bad is because I own an old XB360 with no HDMI output. There is a slight image blurring & ghosting effect while outputting 1080p via component (720p/1080i is perfectly clear..so no fault of the cable). VGA does not have the ghosting issue, yet image quality is way too soft, causing the graphics to look flat and boring.

If anyone knows of a hidden work-around to get that sharpness bumped up a bit (or alternately, edge enhancement forced on) I'd be very happy to be clued in. ...Rather not buy an HDMI equipped XB360 despite them being dirt cheap these days.

Have you gone into service mode with the TV connected to PC and made your adjustments in both Calibration mode and EPA Standard.

You may have to adjust GAIN control... it will produce RGB cross hatches as an overlay to the screen. You can adjust using the channel up / down keys.

The gain can be a wee bit too high, as I discovered with mine.

You want the lines that make the cross hatches as sharp as possible. you will see the lines are actually very small sawtooth shapes. If too low or too high on gain the sawtooth pattern will be fuzzy and look like a solid line.

As for the PC mode I never had to adjust sharpness though some have discovered that the TV's focus was a wee out.

Once you make your adjustments you can then go into CCA and save your settings.

Power off with the remote when done with the service menu, and wait about 30 seconds and power back on and see if PC mode has kept your settings.
post #15033 of 15630
Well my A750 now has three burnouts (white dots in screen) in it. Sucks for movies but great for hockey . . .
post #15034 of 15630
Quote:
Originally Posted by Godzilla1964 View Post

Well my A750 now has three burnouts (white dots in screen) in it. Sucks for movies but great for hockey . . .

Ouch, sorry to hear that. The white dots are actually mechanically stuck micro-mirrors in the "on" position. Time to order a new DMD.
post #15035 of 15630
Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Tech View Post

Have you gone into service mode with the TV connected to PC and made your adjustments in both Calibration mode and EPA Standard.

You may have to adjust GAIN control... it will produce RGB cross hatches as an overlay to the screen. You can adjust using the channel up / down keys.

The gain can be a wee bit too high, as I discovered with mine.

You want the lines that make the cross hatches as sharp as possible. you will see the lines are actually very small sawtooth shapes. If too low or too high on gain the sawtooth pattern will be fuzzy and look like a solid line.

As for the PC mode I never had to adjust sharpness though some have discovered that the TV's focus was a wee out.

Yes I had previously performed all adjustments for both Calibration and EPA Standard. My Actuator gain is fine, I don't have any problems with sawtooth aberrations and have verified that focus is perfect using full res 1080p 1:1 pixel mapping test patterns.

Quote:


Once you make your adjustments you can then go into CCA and save your settings.

Power off with the remote when done with the service menu, and wait about 30 seconds and power back on and see if PC mode has kept your settings.

Thank you for your help and suggestions, but this is exactly what I initially did. For the PC Input: Just about everything will save under the Expert settings except the Sharpness variable. It will seemingly stick within the SM, only to revert to defaults upon exiting.

Now I noticed that there is a dedicated sub-menu totally devoted to sharpness (12 Sharpness)...but I believe that it affects all sources simultaneously, so don't want to mess with it.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that that the DB15 port on this TV is bad, just slightly softer then I would like to see. I've watched several HD movies streamed from Netflix through it and they looked great. However, it's just not crisp enough for serious video game use in my opinion. Doesn't have the same "visual pop" as HDMI or component even in Dynamic "kill the LEDs" torch mode...and that is not the fault of the VGA standard within itself, but rather this TV in particular.

Recently purchased a Sewell Hammerhead VGA to HDMI converter and wow what a difference. It's everything I had hoped for. Hard pressed to tell that any analog to digital conversion is occurring. It looks like a pure digital video feed...and that's how good VGA can actually look.

It's all industry hype and BS that analog is inherently inferior to digital. It's all about signal strength, cable quality, and the capability of equipment (whether it be a converter or display) to perform the analog->digital conversion cleanly. The digital link fiasco is mostly about corporate DRM control. Actual picture quality improvement was not the primary reason digital signal handling was forced upon us.
post #15036 of 15630
I'd like to share with my fellow thread members......that I finally got my paws on a Mitsu 3DC-1000 3D starter kit.

Bought it on eBay being sold broken & as-is. Figured the glasses alone were worth what I paid for the kit. Lucky me, there is absolutely nothing wrong with any of the accessories. The pair of glasses were never even used.

Popped in the Hubble 3D into the PS3 and almost had a stroke. Truly spectacular. Killzone 3 in 3D impressed me greatly as well.

Couple of issues I detected though, one well-known, a few others not.

1.) Blacks frequently look more like a dark brick red. If a method has been discovered yet to skew things more towards true black, I'd like to be informed.

2.) Although 3D Mode 2 is seemingly recommended most often, Mode 1 was the correct selection for -all- of the content I have had the pleasure to view so far.

3.) Was experimenting by toggling between picture modes (Dynamic, Standard, Movie) while simultaneously viewing 3D, when the red LED inexplicably shut off, only to illuminate again after toggling back to Movie. This strange event only happened once...and no, the red LED is not overheating or has shown any sign of flicker or eminent failure beforehand.

4.) After concluding the 3D viewing session, Dynamic mode on all sources became visually corrupted. Color errors, clay face and heavy pixelation were prominent. After power cycling the TV, the issue disappeared. Again, just as the aforementioned "red LED issue", this has only happened once, so far neither event has occurred again.

Besides those weird issues, it's been a great experience. No ghosting, crosstalk, sync issues were observed.
post #15037 of 15630
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nath5000 View Post

I've never attempted to turn on the 3D mode until today. I have my PS3 hooked up into the HDMI3/DVI port on the TV. I boot up the PS3, go into the Avatar game, turn everything on in the Avatar settings, then I enable 3D Mode in the menu and all the blacks look very red. It's the same for Mode 1, 2, movie, dynamic, and standard.

A few other glitches I noticed. When enabling 3D mode the TV emits a slight buzzing sound, similar to the sound you get when you turn up the LED to the highest setting. Secondly when I switch to 3D Mode (where all the blacks look reddish) and then switch 3D mode off, occasionally when switching it off all of the colors become distorted in non-3D mode until I go in and change the color from RGB to something else and then change it back to RGB. After that everything looks fine. Has anyone else tried this out and had a similar experience?

I've read that Samsung's discontinued SSG1000 shutter-glasses are tinted in a way that the reddish blacks become true black when viewed through them, but when using other brands of shutter-glasses with more neutral tints (Xpand X101) the red blacks are supposedly still visible and colors look distorted. In that case I'm really hoping that Samsung will re-introduce the SSG1000 glasses in mid-late 2010 when all of the 3D Blu-Ray and likely 3D updates come out for the PS3. I would've bought 3-4 pairs of the SSG1000 glasses back when they were available if I knew that the 3D mode's reddish tint was specifically designed for offsetting the tint of the SSG1000 Samsung glasses.

RealD has the $450 CrystalEyes5 glasses that work with our DLP without the need for an emitter (Using "DLP Link" something-or-other that syncs with a light within the DLP signal) but they're way too expensive. Sony just announced the other day that they've joined up with RealD to provide RealD shutter-glasses for the upcoming Sony 3DTVs of 2010. Here's hoping that those Sony/RealD glasses will be a lot cheaper than $450 and that they'll work with our TV.

XPand’s X101s are nice and supposedly they're teaming with Panasonic to ship Xpand manufactured shutter-glasses with upcoming Panasonic 3DTVs. They also make an already available emitter-free "DLP Link" set of glasses for $150.00USD but I've contacted the company and they only take proprietary batteries which can only be purchased through them (10 for 20bucks with 250-300hrs of use per battery). That really isn’t good, especially if the company discontinues the model and the batteries become no-longer available. From what I've gathered reading different news websites the Panasonic TVs that will be shipping with official Xpand manufactured glasses will use a charge cable instead of batteries. There's no guarantee that it will work with our DLP and it surely won’t have the emitter-free "DLP Link" thing though.

Anyways, back to the issue about the 3D mode on our TV, has anyone else have a similar experience with the reddish blacks or any 3D experiences on the HL61A750?

Hi, responding to your 2.5 year old post since it is relevant to what I have witnessed.

Never a problem with any LED buzzing either in Dynamic, 3D, or Dynamic + 3D modes. As mentioned in my previous post, the red LED went out temporarily only to reactivate after another picture mode switch.

Just one time I had the same exact problem with the colors getting corrupted after exiting 3D, but it only affected Dynamic mode for some reason. This has never reoccurred either.

I don't plan on buying different glasses regardless of the reddish blacks. Have a pair of Mitsubishi SSG-2700MG/ZA glasses that were included with the 3DC-1000 starter kit. Really like how they look, perform and feel. Put them on my digital scale and they only weigh 35 grams each (with the CR-2025 Lithium batteries inserted).

Maybe I'll try the SSG1000, but only if I can find them at a steal.
post #15038 of 15630
Quote:
Originally Posted by KewlK View Post

....
1.) Blacks frequently look more like a dark brick red. If a method has been discovered yet to skew things more towards true black, I'd like to be informed.
....

Let me guess... you are using IR glasses. IR glasses do not fully block the DLP Link signal from your set causing the tinted blacks. Get DLP Link glasses and the blacks will look black. I have yet to find IR glasses that makes black look black. Here comes the gotcha... DLP Link glasses make the blacks fully black, but most of them cause a small static rainbow to appear on the screen in bright scenes. Pick your poison.

PS - the old SSG1000's do not fix this issue as stated in a post above. I had them and the blacks were still reddish.
post #15039 of 15630
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

Let me guess... you are using IR glasses. IR glasses do not fully block the DLP Link signal from your set causing the tinted blacks. Get DLP Link glasses and the blacks will look black. I have yet to find IR glasses that makes black look black. Here comes the gotcha... DLP Link glasses make the blacks fully black, but most of them cause a small static rainbow to appear on the screen in bright scenes. Pick your poison.

PS - the old SSG1000's do not fix this issue as stated in a post above. I had them and the blacks were still reddish.

Bingo. Yes, these are most definitely IR based glasses.

Why would Mitsubishi include the "IR type" with their $$$ starter kit; knowing full well that this kit was intended solely for use with DLP based TVs?

Lemme guess...cost savings I suppose? The @#$%^s!

Unfortunately there is no option to disable the DLP Link signal within the SM.

Still, I can tolerate it for now. Blacks are usually convincing enough, but then there are those moments which look glaringly wrong.
post #15040 of 15630
Mitsubishi sets do not go reddish when their DLP link is enabled - that is something that only happens to Sammy sets.

Try a pair of Ultra Clear DLP link glasses. You'll never go back.
post #15041 of 15630
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

Mitsubishi sets do not go reddish when their DLP link is enabled - that is something that only happens to Sammy sets.

Yes I recently found out that the Mitsu sets use green tinted DLP Link sync flashing rather than Sammy's red method. The SSG-2700MG/ZA glasses have no "tainted black" issues with Mitsu sets.

Quote:


Try a pair of Ultra Clear DLP link glasses. You'll never go back.

Thank you very much for the advice. Just started reading reviews on them right now.

Most owners seem to love them, although a few claim that they wash-out colors and have sync problems within brightly lit rooms. Still, I'd take that over reddish blacks any day.
post #15042 of 15630
Quote:
Originally Posted by KewlK View Post

Yes I recently found out that the Mitsu sets use green tinted DLP Link sync flashing rather than Sammy's red method. The SSG-2700MG/ZA glasses have no "tainted black" issues with Mitsu sets.



Thank you very much for the advice. Just started reading reviews on them right now.

Most owners seem to love them, although a few claim that they wash-out colors and have sync problems within brightly lit rooms. Still, I'd take that over reddish blacks any day.

Well, there are a few posts about DLP link glasses... Nobody has any picture quality issues with Optoma ZD glasses. Though there are fitment issues.

Some report durability issues with other brands.

I have heard that Xpand has the quickest on off times, but do not compare to Optoma picture quality.

Though I do not use 3D, but if I were picky ZD201 would be my choice from all that is available today.
post #15043 of 15630
You can fix the sync issues by covering 3/4 the light sensor on the left side with black tape. I have a video on youtube showing how they work better than IR glasses:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7iItYJK_3os

My set is older, but they work the same. Notice the guitarist left arm and the black field next to it. If you pay very close attention to that area you'll see that DLP Link glasses are the way to go.

Edit - side by side comparison:

Not the best photo in the world but you can see the difference in the blacks.
post #15044 of 15630
Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Tech View Post

Though I do not use 3D, but if I were picky ZD201 would be my choice from all that is available today.

I greatly appreciate your input. The ZD201 does seem exceptional and I even like its ergonomics.

Never thought that 3D was much of a big deal, at least initially. Now I find myself really enjoying it.
post #15045 of 15630
Thanks "nickels55", yes the pair of IRs I have now will either be sold or relegated to backup duty. Going DLP Link asap.
post #15046 of 15630
Quote:
Originally Posted by KewlK View Post

I greatly appreciate your input. The ZD201 does seem exceptional and I even like its ergonomics.

Never thought that 3D was much of a big deal, at least initially. Now I find myself really enjoying it.

For myself I can't watch 3D, it gives me a head ache. 24fps is way too slow for me.

I did see Avatar just to see what Cameron could do. Was not impressed, CGI still needs a lot of work for me.

For example; "A Night To Remember" was done in B&W long before CGI, yet everyone is all gaga over the "Titanic".

I will give Scott a try with "Prometheus". At the time before filming. Ridley himself said; "Today's 3D tech is not good enough". He had invested in newer technology to make this film, so 3D details can be done in the lowest black levels.

I would have no problems with 3D if only the industry would go to 60fps and allow you to bring in your own DLP link glasses.

I remember watching an awards show, Martin Scorsese (Hugo) praised technology as being a mainstay to the film industry. He stressed that we being the industry, must make the movie experience bigger than what we can ever achieve at home. Meaning most have a home theater setup that is tailored to their pleasure.

I don't have the best equipment, being in a small room with proper setup and having my 61" DLP 6 feet away, makes going to the movies dull. As most theaters over ramp the audio for the younger audiences which is a bit annoying for my ears. Though they never get the true sound of guns and explosions. I remember watching "Under Siege" Tommy Lee Jones near the gun turret. The who theater should have been def for at least 10 minutes. MWHAHAHAA!!! But we just got rumbled in our seats.
post #15047 of 15630
Low Tech, I can relate about 3D headaches and don't like any content displayed at less than 60Hz either.

The first few times of 3D viewing I would experience headaches and dizziness afterward. ...But now it does not happen at all. It was a similar situation at first with RBE also, but after about a week the brain adapted and it's no longer a problem.

...Don't go to the theater (or sporting events) much either. I find that the HD home viewing experience is actually much better. Not to mention ticket admission prices for both luxuries are such an absolute rip-off these days; it's not even funny. ..And yes, those situations are just too loud and especially torture for sensitive ears.

Know where you're coming from on CGI. Have the same complaints, but force myself to forgo them for the sake of enjoyment. Regardless: CGI is the future. Rendering realism will only get better as the years go on, it's inevitable. I can actually still appreciate the initial attempts at CGI such as "The Abyss" and "T2", although primitive.

Thank goodness Cameron held off on "Avatar" production until technology had improved further. It could have been a complete unrealistic mess if the movie was made back when he had first conceived it.
post #15048 of 15630
Quote:
Originally Posted by KewlK View Post

Low Tech, I can relate about 3D headaches and don't like any content displayed at less than 60Hz either.

The first few times of 3D viewing I would experience headaches and dizziness afterward. ...But now it does not happen at all. It was a similar situation at first with RBE also, but after about a week the brain adapted and it's no longer a problem.

...Don't go to the theater (or sporting events) much either. I find that the HD home viewing experience is actually much better. Not to mention ticket admission prices for both luxuries are such an absolute rip-off these days; it's not even funny. ..And yes, those situations are just too loud and especially torture for sensitive ears.

Know where you're coming from on CGI. Have the same complaints, but force myself to forgo them for the sake of enjoyment. Regardless: CGI is the future. Rendering realism will only get better as the years go on, it's inevitable. I can actually still appreciate the initial attempts at CGI such as "The Abyss" and "T2", although primitive.

Thank goodness Cameron held off on "Avatar" production until technology had improved further. It could have been a complete unrealistic mess if the movie was made back when he had first conceived it.

Yep about the cost of going to events... One thing that I enjoy and is not so expensive is nostalgia drags at the local speedway if you got one. The seating is fairly close and you can enjoy having your insides shake for a few seconds watching front engine drags.

We just had our matinee costs go up to $6.50 a ticket. So buying a DVD is the way to go for us.

We did get a freebee movie recently "Goon" if you are into Hocky and odd comedy. It was enjoyable for us. )
post #15049 of 15630
Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Tech View Post

One thing that I enjoy and is not so expensive is nostalgia drags at the local speedway if you got one. The seating is fairly close and you can enjoy having your insides shake for a few seconds watching front engine drags.

You just brought back some great memories. Yeah, my brothers and I used to drive out to Norwalk, OH for the huge drag events held there. Miss the sweet smell of non-combusted high octane racing fuel in the air. It's been years. Maybe again someday.

Quote:


We did get a freebee movie recently "Goon" if you are into Hocky and odd comedy. It was enjoyable for us. )

The NHL & AHL have been growing on me lately, but NFL football is #1 for me. I'll look into "Goon". Yes, I like weird comedy so I'd probably like it.
post #15050 of 15630
those of you that have the CinemaQuest Ideal Lume, do you happen to have a picture of it in use with this tv? is the 1 bulb enough?
post #15051 of 15630
Quote:
Originally Posted by detroit_fan View Post

those of you that have the CinemaQuest Ideal Lume, do you happen to have a picture of it in use with this tv? is the 1 bulb enough?

I don't need it behind the Samsung as street lights do the job for me (don't ask) - lol

However, I have a single behind a 75" Mitsubishi LaserVue and it's plenty. In fact, I have to turn down the shutter somewhat.
post #15052 of 15630
Quote:
Originally Posted by detroit_fan View Post

those of you that have the CinemaQuest Ideal Lume, do you happen to have a picture of it in use with this tv? is the 1 bulb enough?

One is enough. And yes, I have the diffuser covering part of the bulb. You have to factor room size around the TV, paint color on the walls, personal preference on amount of light, etc.
post #15053 of 15630
Quote:
Originally Posted by KewlK View Post

Ouch, sorry to hear that. The white dots are actually mechanically stuck micro-mirrors in the "on" position. Time to order a new DMD.

Got a good website/place to order one from ??
post #15054 of 15630
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

I don't need it behind the Samsung as street lights do the job for me (don't ask) - lol

However, I have a single behind a 75" Mitsubishi LaserVue and it's plenty. In fact, I have to turn down the shutter somewhat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominic26 View Post

One is enough. And yes, I have the diffuser covering part of the bulb. You have to factor room size around the TV, paint color on the walls, personal preference on amount of light, etc.

thanks. i was asking cause I wasn't sure if it would only light up the top part fo the wall or if it would come out the sides too, similar to this-

http://www.google.com/imgres?q=ambie...w=1600&bih=754
post #15055 of 15630
Quote:
Originally Posted by Godzilla1964 View Post

Got a good website/place to order one from ??

Sure, this is one of the better prices I can find on them:

http://www.shopjimmy.com/samsung-mit...7-dlp-chip.htm

-Do not touch- the clear window while handling.

Happy Easter
post #15056 of 15630
Please allow me a possible silly question since I am new to using 3D on my Samsung 750. I recently purchased and was able to perform the reset mod to an older Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 3D starter pack. With the usual fooling around (experimenting with HDMI3 naming, etc.), everything works decently.

Are the glasses that came with the kit (they are the same in the Samsung kit, too) IR or DLP link glasses? If IR, would I benefit from DLP Link glasses or any others? My overall pic experience is decent, but I'm always open anything better.

Thanks.



Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

Let me guess... you are using IR glasses. IR glasses do not fully block the DLP Link signal from your set causing the tinted blacks. Get DLP Link glasses and the blacks will look black. I have yet to find IR glasses that makes black look black. Here comes the gotcha... DLP Link glasses make the blacks fully black, but most of them cause a small static rainbow to appear on the screen in bright scenes. Pick your poison.

PS - the old SSG1000's do not fix this issue as stated in a post above. I had them and the blacks were still reddish.
post #15057 of 15630
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChronoMATT View Post

Please allow me a possible silly question since I am new to using 3D on my Samsung 750. I recently purchased and was able to perform the reset mod to an older Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 3D starter pack. With the usual fooling around (experimenting with HDMI3 naming, etc.), everything works decently.

Are the glasses that came with the kit (they are the same in the Samsung kit, too) IR or DLP link glasses? If IR, would I benefit from DLP Link glasses or any others? My overall pic experience is decent, but I'm always open anything better.

Thanks.

Do you have to hook up an emitter for the glasses to work? If so, they are IR glasses. If they are IR your blacks probably appear warm or tinted red. DLP Link glasses will remove that tint and your blacks will be pure black and not reddish with them.
post #15058 of 15630
Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Tech View Post

Well, there are a few posts about DLP link glasses... Nobody has any picture quality issues with Optoma ZD glasses. Though there are fitment issues.

Some report durability issues with other brands.

I have heard that Xpand has the quickest on off times, but do not compare to Optoma picture quality.

Though I do not use 3D, but if I were picky ZD201 would be my choice from all that is available today.

Where can you find the Optoma ZD201 Glasses for Sale? I could only find the ZD101. Thanks
post #15059 of 15630
Quote:
Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

Where can you find the Optoma ZD201 Glasses for Sale? I could only find the ZD101. Thanks

Hi, there will be a shortage until the UK stock has been shipped.

It prolly be best to search UK online stores as the company is based in Europe.

This company does expect shipment in a few weeks as you can click on the button for stock availabilty on their page.

http://www.lambda-tek.com/95-Z0301GC...INK~cs/B591950
post #15060 of 15630
Quote:
Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

Where can you find the Optoma ZD201 Glasses for Sale? I could only find the ZD101. Thanks

They have yet to be released in the U.S. You have to import them from Britain. The U.K. Amazon site seems to have the best deal. After the pound to dollar currency conversion + rip-off Royal Mail shipping, they are rather pricey.
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