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2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 504

post #15091 of 15633
Quote:
Originally Posted by KewlK View Post

Sure, you'll be able to view regular 2D material just fine. The only drawback will be a softer image. It's mainly due to the sharpness picture control (among others) being automatically locked out within PC mode.

I am constantly going back and forth renaming HDMI3 to PC for 3D, then blanking it out again for 2D. It's a slight hassle, but is the only way to get the very best of both picture modes.

Thanx for all the feedback, much appreciated! Now comes the hard part.... I have to make the pitch to the wife on the value of investing in DLP-Linked glasses and Blu-ray 3D discs. : )
post #15092 of 15633
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

KewlK - I have seen people post that they do not have red tinted blacks on their sets. These also seem to be the same people who have problems with DLP link glasses. I am not sure that the x103s block the DLP link signal, as this is the first time I've heard of any IR glasses that make blacks look black. I think his set may have no DLP Link signal or a weak one, where there is no tint to begin with.

rarcha42 - Are your blacks heavily tinted red before putting on the glasses?

I've used some fairly nice IR glasses, none of them removed the red tint. Only DLP Link glasses have worked for me.

Sorry about the cheap emitter quote I'm not saying any one has a cheap emitter, I'm just not seeing any red tint in my blacks, and my blacks are very red, but has Nickel55 quoted, I also found many mixed reviews weather there DLP linked or IR that there is a red tint in there blacks.
post #15093 of 15633
Quote:
Originally Posted by rarcha42 View Post

Sorry about the cheap emitter quote I'm not saying any one has a cheap emitter, I'm just not seeing any red tint in my blacks, and my blacks are very red, but has Nickel55 quoted, I also found many mixed reviews weather there DLP linked or IR that there is a red tint in there blacks.

No need for apologies, I'm sure nobody took any offense.

It is strange that you are not seeing red through your X103s, yet your DLP-Link signal is strong.
post #15094 of 15633
I certainly wasn't offended, just pointing out that I've used decent IR glasses and the blacks were still red. Others have mentioned that the x103s remove the red tint as well. The only complaints about the X103s is that there is a slight flicker problem with them, but I'm not positive as I don't have enough feedback from people using them on legacy Samsung sets.
post #15095 of 15633
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

I certainly wasn't offended, just pointing out that I've used decent IR glasses and the blacks were still red. Others have mentioned that the x103s remove the red tint as well. The only complaints about the X103s is that there is a slight flicker problem with them, but I'm not positive as I don't have enough feedback from people using them on legacy Samsung sets.

Yes, I just finished some more research on the x103s. Not only do they seem to properly filter out the red DLP-Link sync signal with the Sammys...but also entirely eliminate the green from the Mitsus.

Very unique IR glasses indeed, as there are no others I'm aware of which are capable of that. Unfortunately the "flicker problem" seems to be a relatively common complaint, although not a problem for the majority of users.
post #15096 of 15633
Quote:
Originally Posted by KewlK View Post

Yes, I just finished some more research on the x103s. Not only do they seem to properly filter out the red DLP-Link sync signal with the Sammys...but also entirely eliminate the green from the Mitsus.

Very unique IR glasses indeed, as there are no others I'm aware of which are capable of that. Unfortunately the "flicker problem" seems to be a relatively common complaint, although not a problem for the majority of users.

Yes there is a flicker problem on bright scenes, but is easily fixable, with a small darkened peice of tape over the sensor on the glasses, you will see this on some of the reviews, but it works well. You think they have an update, at this point, but none that I know of.
post #15097 of 15633
Hi,

Had a repair technician in today to look at my HL-61A750, which is displaying a 2" wide vertical bar (75% black, see through) all the way down the left hand side of the display. The technician said it was most likely the light engine, and was going to call it into the shop for a quote. Wanted to verify if any of you other owners out there have had a similar experience with this issue; if so, what was broken and what was the cost of the repair?

I have a SqareTrade warranty and they'll be reimbursing me for the cost of the repair, up to the value of the warranty, which I believe is $1500.

Thanks in advance!

Brian

Richmond, VA
post #15098 of 15633
Quote:
Originally Posted by bc0203 View Post

Hi,

Had a repair technician in today to look at my HL-61A750, which is displaying a 2" wide vertical bar (75% black, see through) all the way down the left hand side of the display. The technician said it was most likely the light engine, and was going to call it into the shop for a quote. Wanted to verify if any of you other owners out there have had a similar experience with this issue; if so, what was broken and what was the cost of the repair?

I have a SqareTrade warranty and they'll be reimbursing me for the cost of the repair, up to the value of the warranty, which I believe is $1500.

Thanks in advance!

Brian

Richmond, VA

This is a known issue with the Samsung DLP. I experienced the same issue with my Sammy and it was repaired under warrenty several years ago. The tech has replaced the light engine. The part was around $400. Here is a link to some others with the same issue.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post19268767
post #15099 of 15633
This is indeed a known issue. For more info scroll down to the very bottom of the page and you will see a series of frequently asked links. One of these is for the dark shadow on the left side.
post #15100 of 15633
Quote:
Originally Posted by CyberScott View Post

This is a known issue with the Samsung DLP. I experienced the same issue with my Sammy and it was repaired under warrenty several years ago. The tech has replaced the light engine. The part was around $400. Here is a link to some others with the same issue.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post19268767

Some have fixed the issue on their own, depending on how bad the dim area is.

There are two knobs for Horizontal and Vertical illumination adjustment.

It can't hurt giving it a try on your own before calling for service.
post #15101 of 15633
My 61" is displaying the "Not Available" banner in the middle of the screen and it will not go away. It just popped up today and stays there. The picture is fine behind it and none of the remote commands will work on either the Samsung remote or the Harmony so I am unable to get into the menu. Not even the controls on the TV panel will respond. The TV will turn off using the Harmony remote but that's it. Anyone have an idea of what's going on? Thanks in advance for your time.
post #15102 of 15633
Quote:
Originally Posted by wjlane View Post

My 61" is displaying the "Not Available" banner in the middle of the screen and it will not go away. It just popped up today and stays there. The picture is fine behind it and none of the remote commands will work on either the Samsung remote or the Harmony so I am unable to get into the menu. Not even the controls on the TV panel will respond. The TV will turn off using the Harmony remote but that's it. Anyone have an idea of what's going on? Thanks in advance for your time.

Try the buttons on the side of the tv. You should be able to access the menu and change both volume and channels.

If not, it looks like your power supply voltage is faulty, you may also have a bad main board as a result. :-(
post #15103 of 15633
Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Tech View Post

Try the buttons on the side of the tv. You should be able to access the menu and change both volume and channels.

If not, it looks like your power supply voltage is faulty, you may also have a bad main board as a result. :-(

Thanks for the info. I did mess with the buttons on the side and it did not help. The only button that worked was the channel down button. If I held in that button and held down the menu button on the remote, the menu would appear briefly on the screen then disappear (I was not able to navigate at all).

But now here's the kicker. I've had the issue for 4 days straight, then this morning before I headed to work, I turned on the TV just to see if the error was still there and it was gone. The TV has worked all night without issue so now what? I am fortunate this happened when my extended warranty was due to expire in six days! Now that a technician will be coming out, the problem has gone away. Is it possible for the power supply or main board to go in and out of functionality like this? I'm afraid the tech will report that no problem exists and therfore it doesn't need repair. Then the day after my warranty is up, the problem will reappear. Will the tech be able to isolate the fault based only on my description of the symtoms? Any ideas?
post #15104 of 15633
Quote:
Originally Posted by wjlane View Post

Thanks for the info. I did mess with the buttons on the side and it did not help. The only button that worked was the channel down button. If I held in that button and held down the menu button on the remote, the menu would appear briefly on the screen then disappear (I was not able to navigate at all).

But now here's the kicker. I've had the issue for 4 days straight, then this morning before I headed to work, I turned on the TV just to see if the error was still there and it was gone. The TV has worked all night without issue so now what? I am fortunate this happened when my extended warranty was due to expire in six days! Now that a technician will be coming out, the problem has gone away. Is it possible for the power supply or main board to go in and out of functionality like this? I'm afraid the tech will report that no problem exists and therfore it doesn't need repair. Then the day after my warranty is up, the problem will reappear. Will the tech be able to isolate the fault based only on my description of the symtoms? Any ideas?

Well, tough call on this one... Has there been any brown outs or electrical storms the day or night before the issue started??

If so, unplugging the TV for a hour will kinda reset a hardware glitch. These TVs have power on all the time, there has to be some power to the main board to allow remote to power on.

If the issue does not pop up before the tech shows up... you can explain as best you can what has happened since your call. Ask him if he can remove the power supply and mother board.

Once both are removed, have him look at the bottom side where the circuit traces are.

If any of the traces are discolored in a local area, brown /reddish so to speak. It would be easier for him to call it defective. One or both may have some circuit damage.

I had my main board damaged from the power supply and both showed the discolored traces from heat stress of failing parts.

I too had issues that would randomly pop up after the TV warmed up, but did not realize it till much later, as we only turn the TV on once during the night and never use the controls since Directv and our A/V receiver do all the functions.

I was able to fix my main board as it was easy to diagnose the fail parts.

So in a nut shell, none of the boards should have discolored heat stressed traces.
post #15105 of 15633
I have model # hl61a750a1fxza. When I power my tv on I the 3 lights flash that are on the lower right front of the tv. The screen is black. I called samsung and they issued me a ticket number and then gave me a number to a local authorized repair place. They keep giving me the run around about trying to order the parts they "think" I need and have just canceled my order b/c they said my part was taking too long to get in from Samsung. They said it wouldn't be here until June 25. Does anyone know what could be wrong with my tv or if I could use another repair place such as Sears? My tv isn't under warranty. Hell am I just better off buying another brand? I enjoyed the tv but didn't watch it that much and certainly not enough for it to go bad already. I am starting to think I shouldn't have bought a samsung. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
post #15106 of 15633
Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Tech View Post

Well, tough call on this one... Has there been any brown outs or electrical storms the day or night before the issue started??

If so, unplugging the TV for a hour will kinda reset a hardware glitch. These TVs have power on all the time, there has to be some power to the main board to allow remote to power on.

If the issue does not pop up before the tech shows up... you can explain as best you can what has happened since your call. Ask him if he can remove the power supply and mother board.

Once both are removed, have him look at the bottom side where the circuit traces are.

If any of the traces are discolored in a local area, brown /reddish so to speak. It would be easier for him to call it defective. One or both may have some circuit damage.

I had my main board damaged from the power supply and both showed the discolored traces from heat stress of failing parts.

I too had issues that would randomly pop up after the TV warmed up, but did not realize it till much later, as we only turn the TV on once during the night and never use the controls since Directv and our A/V receiver do all the functions.

I was able to fix my main board as it was easy to diagnose the fail parts.

So in a nut shell, none of the boards should have discolored heat stressed traces.

We did have some bad storms roll through the last week or so but I don't recall any brown outs or other issues. The tech will be out next Friday and I will definately follow your advice in having him look at the PSU and main board. I'll update my situation after that. Just curious though, if they end up not wanting to repair the TV because the issue went away, any idea how much the PSU and main board parts would cost? Is the job itself a simple swap, plug and play install or is there much more involved requiring a skilled tech to accomplish? Thanks again for your time and advice. You've been very helpful!
post #15107 of 15633
Quote:
Originally Posted by shwnhart View Post

I have model # hl61a750a1fxza. When I power my tv on I the 3 lights flash that are on the lower right front of the tv. The screen is black. I called samsung and they issued me a ticket number and then gave me a number to a local authorized repair place. They keep giving me the run around about trying to order the parts they "think" I need and have just canceled my order b/c they said my part was taking too long to get in from Samsung. They said it wouldn't be here until June 25. Does anyone know what could be wrong with my tv or if I could use another repair place such as Sears? My tv isn't under warranty. Hell am I just better off buying another brand? I enjoyed the tv but didn't watch it that much and certainly not enough for it to go bad already. I am starting to think I shouldn't have bought a samsung. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

is it doing this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_McMzxd95eU

this happened to mine. the sub power supply went out. i think a new one was about $70. You can check the outputs of both power supplies if you have a multimeter.
post #15108 of 15633
Yes thank you mickris. That is exactly what it is doing. I will check with a multimeter. Thank you for your help.
post #15109 of 15633
Quote:
Originally Posted by shwnhart View Post

I have model # hl61a750a1fxza. When I power my tv on I the 3 lights flash that are on the lower right front of the tv. The screen is black. I called samsung and they issued me a ticket number and then gave me a number to a local authorized repair place. They keep giving me the run around about trying to order the parts they "think" I need and have just canceled my order b/c they said my part was taking too long to get in from Samsung. They said it wouldn't be here until June 25. Does anyone know what could be wrong with my tv or if I could use another repair place such as Sears? My tv isn't under warranty. Hell am I just better off buying another brand? I enjoyed the tv but didn't watch it that much and certainly not enough for it to go bad already. I am starting to think I shouldn't have bought a samsung. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

OK... I have made many replies and a thread about HL series main power supply.

Basically it is a stripped down PC power supply with little protection at its outputs.

My TV had been hit a number of times by spikes and brown outs, thinking my TV should be protected when off. I found the filtering caps go bad and will make the Power supply fail or be unreliable.

The main board is the key to the TV's function, it controls and transfers voltage to most all of the processing. The only item that has its own power supply is the LED drivers. It too can go bad, and the main power supply is has the input AC filtering. So when the filtering goes bad, anything can happen.

the main power supply costs about 100... it should be looked at if your questioning possible issues later on.
post #15110 of 15633
Quote:
Originally Posted by rewapyunco View Post

Yes, I always wondered why the manufacturer's went with the 1:66 to 1 aspect ratio when the high-def widescreen TVs came out, rather than 2:35 to 1.

Simple there would be no sales for anything below 60" and the cost would keep peeps from buying causing even slower HD content.

Cripes! 720p sucks and it is pretty much a standard. I'd give up 720p for 1280i any day with my Sammy. )
post #15111 of 15633
I'm not sure if this is a NEW problem... I've tried searching this forum but I didn't see anything.

So here goes:

HL61A750A1FXZA Version RE01. Almost every day, the picture will go blank. There is still sound, so the TV is powered. I have to turn the TV off for ~30 seconds then back on, and then the picture returns. There is no reduction in brightness. There is nothing to indicate there is or will be problem, no flicker nothing. The picture just goes dark.

Any suggestions? Sound familiar to anybody? Any way to further diagnose?

Thanks in advance. I love this TV and the would like to keep it going for a while...
post #15112 of 15633
sounds like a power supply issue possibly.

I had an issue with mine back in Feb of 2011, although not the same as your issue, I had a bad power supply. And one of the things the guy asked was if the picture would go out, and come back, or come back after a power cycle.
In my case, the power supply was going out, the caps on the PCB were mushrooming and going bad. So the picture was not as bright, and the Green(i think) LED was not as bright as the others, so my picture had a pink hue over it.

He replaced the PSU and the Green led(again, i think, may have been the blue) and said I was good to go. Although I never really noticed a difference in the brightness coming back, the pink tint over everything was gone then, SO I just dismissed it.

Fast forward to this year, its been worsening again. So I contacted MackCam to schedule a warranty service call(which will be this coming Monday actually) so we shall see.
At this point my MackCam Extended warranty is about to expire, so I wanna make sure they do it RIGHT.

But I would be willing to bet, if you look at the caps on your PCB, you will likely find some bad ones. If you are not capable of doing so, or reluctant to do it yourself, I would look on sammys site asap for a local authorized repair center that makes house calls asap.
If it IS a PSU issue, it may very well get worse, till you get no picture at all, even on power cycle. The fact that it goes black, and comes back on a power cycle, sound like the caps are discharging electricity (hence you wait 30 seconds), and then when you power back up, they hold some juice for a while until they cant anymore, and then the pic goes black. If it gets worse, it may inadvertently damage other power hungry components that are not getting what they need from your potentially weakened PSU.

So MAKE SURE to look at or have your PSU looked at asap!
post #15113 of 15633
Strange I answered this but I do not see the post.

Mine does this but only when watching Tivo or Direct TV. I think the amp is loosing the signal and it usually comes back after back up and restart. I don't watch over the air except through Tivo.
I haven't checked what is really causing the problem.
post #15114 of 15633
]Are you using an A/V receiver? My ONKYO receiver was doing the same thing and it was not the TV? If interested I posted the repair needed.
post #15115 of 15633
Quote:
Originally Posted by rickaren View Post

]Are you using an A/V receiver? My ONKYO receiver was doing the same thing and it was not the TV? If interested I posted the repair needed.

I had an Onyko and junked it because it was the worst receiver I ever owned. It took about 10 minuits before it would even pickup an input and switch, I had to leave it on all the time. I did a search and it seems it is a comon problem. I now have a Pioneer.
post #15116 of 15633
not sure about the OP, but mine is a Denon like in my sig.

Also sold my Onkyo.. Guess I should remove that from my sig now. lol
post #15117 of 15633
I was going to buy another A/V receiver too and it was not going to be an ONKYO, but even out of warranty, ONKYO repaired it at no charge as a known issue! Still working like a new one now. If anyone has an Onkyo you might want to check out this Link.

http://www.avsforum.com/f/109/home-theater-in-a-box
post #15118 of 15633
So how did you get it repaired? How far out of warranty? I supposed you had to pay shipping both ways?
post #15119 of 15633
Was watching Suites on DTV tonight, just after the 2nd commercial I lost signal. Black screen. I rewound the show and every time at the same spot it lost signal. There was a black screen that lasted for about 2 sec just after the commercial. I finally had to fast foreword through the commercial end and miss the first 2 sec of the program to get it to stay on.
post #15120 of 15633
Quote:
Originally Posted by larrylwill View Post

So how did you get it repaired? How far out of warranty? I supposed you had to pay shipping both ways?

I think I covered it all in my post link. I was lucky to have a Authorized Onkyo repairs dealer close-by and he told me to contact Onkyo for authorization for the repair and would not even give me a free estimate for him to repair! Unit was more than three years old but I had registered it with Onkyo but bought it "On-Line" at a great savings, new. Sometimes manufactures require only authorized sales, but they did not. Will buy Onkyo again since they stood behind their product.
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