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2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 505

post #15121 of 15628
Thanks for the suggestions on the caps on the Power Supply. I'll take a look and report my findings.

In reply to some receiver questions: My connection is NOT made through a receiver. FYI.

Thanks
post #15122 of 15628
Quote:
Originally Posted by KewlK View Post


Sure, this is one of the better prices I can find on them:

http://www.shopjimmy.com/samsung-mit...7-dlp-chip.htm


-Do not touch- the clear window while handling.



Actually was cleaning out my filing cabinet and found my extended warranty for the TV that I had forgotten about so that paid for itself plus. Problem solved.
post #15123 of 15628
I had the same problem, dimming line down the left side. I didn't notice it until after the power came back on after 2 days from that bad storm. Luckily I also have a warranty on it so I'm gonna call tomorrow. On a side note, is there a local "for sale" forum here? If I get this fixed I might want to upgrade to a mitsu 83.
post #15124 of 15628
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elrowyn View Post

I had the same problem, dimming line down the left side. I didn't notice it until after the power came back on after 2 days from that bad storm. Luckily I also have a warranty on it so I'm gonna call tomorrow. On a side note, is there a local "for sale" forum here? If I get this fixed I might want to upgrade to a mitsu 83.

Its funny you should mention that because I just noticed the same issue on mine a couple weeks ago and I never saw it before. I have a warranty thats good until the end of November at Brandsmart. Not sure if they would cover something like that.
post #15125 of 15628
Yeah I know, if it IS the led light engine then it might fall under "bulbs" and they generally try to exclude those. I have mine through geek squad and it was a 4 year so it's still good til next summer. The tech on the phone said if it was the light source the picture would appear yellow or purple because only one color would be out. Makes sense and he seemed to know what he was talking about, but that doesn't mean he is correct either. Anyway they are sending someone out tommorow.
post #15126 of 15628
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elrowyn View Post

Yeah I know, if it IS the led light engine then it might fall under "bulbs" and they generally try to exclude those. I have mine through geek squad and it was a 4 year so it's still good til next summer. The tech on the phone said if it was the light source the picture would appear yellow or purple because only one color would be out. Makes sense and he seemed to know what he was talking about, but that doesn't mean he is correct either. Anyway they are sending someone out tommorow.

I could see Brandsmart avoiding the warranty as much as possible for my situaton. Good luck with your repair
post #15127 of 15628
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elrowyn View Post

I had the same problem, dimming line down the left side. I didn't notice it until after the power came back on after 2 days from that bad storm. Luckily I also have a warranty on it so I'm gonna call tomorrow. On a side note, is there a local "for sale" forum here? If I get this fixed I might want to upgrade to a mitsu 83.

Is this similar to your problem?: http://www.avsforum.com/t/758625/shadow-on-left-of-samsung-dlp-screen/2580#post_21830966

Quote:
Originally Posted by HD_Sports_Fan View Post

This appears to be the light tunnel shadow problem. It is exactly how mine looked when it happened to me. Good news is it's not hard or expensive to fix yourself. Just follow the instructions in this thread.
post #15128 of 15628
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

Is this similar to your problem?: http://www.avsforum.com/t/758625/shadow-on-left-of-samsung-dlp-screen/2580#post_21830966

This is exactly what is going on with my set. I just noticed it a few weeks ago. I still have a warranty with Brandsmart that is good until the end of November. Is this something the warranty will cover?
post #15129 of 15628
I don't see why not. But if they don't, read the thread. They claim it's an easy and cheap[ do it yourself fix.
post #15130 of 15628
Yeah same with mine. The tech at the house today noticed a very thin part of the dimming was a red line. It's not the LED engine according to him and a part is on the way, so that's good. So looks like I'm sticking with this one for a while longer.

But it got me thinking about the LED light engine. Claims 60,000 hours of use. After 3 years and having the TV on probably atleast 6 hours a day on average not sure where I am. But the picture is still bright and vivid, and I wonder with the light source, will it be a gradual dimming like bulbs or be more sudden?
post #15131 of 15628
That would only put you around 6570 hours after 3 years at 6 hours a day. Nowhere near the 60K hours.
post #15132 of 15628
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronwt View Post

That would only put you around 6570 hours after 3 years at 6 hours a day. Nowhere near the 60K hours.

wow, guess 60k is quite a long time, lol. Still curious about the degradation. Will it be a sudden loss or a gradual dimming of the picture? Really curious about this.
post #15133 of 15628
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elrowyn View Post

wow, guess 60k is quite a long time, lol. Still curious about the degradation. Will it be a sudden loss or a gradual dimming of the picture? Really curious about this.

You have it backwards... LEDs light intensity will gradually diminish but not like phosphor or plasma. Hardly noticeable, until they just fail to the point of being dim or burnt out.

60,000 hours is too far along the way of tech... By the time I think about how long the TV has ran, I may be considering a replacement.

The only good thing about the longevity of the LEDs is if for some reason this TV will be a collectors item in the year 2100. Though the first Mits LED tvs will be the choice, Sammys will be the rarest... They are practically the same just LED vs Laser as the name for its technology (Laser LED is what both have), and of coarse a different name on the bezel.

PS, before I get Mits fan boyz after me for saying Sammys and Mits use the same technology... Terminology has been raped by commercialism, by stretching the limits of standards. There is no way a real laser would be used in a RPTV. The weakest true laser is far too bright than what our LEDs are capable of. Along with that, the cost of having 3 lasers would make the Mits DLP a bit steep that what it was originally sold for.
Edited by Low Tech - 7/18/12 at 12:17pm
post #15134 of 15628
Quote:
Originally Posted by mingus View Post

Which post was the vacuum thing?


Mine still works well, was thinking about one of these fans for cooling:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OJN250/



Only USB I see says Wiselink, use this? The one pic posted looks like the fan was on the opposite side from the USB port?
I have a HL61A750 and fortunately, mine's been trouble-free, so far. Are there any other recommended fans, preferably USB powered, or is this the best one to use?

I looked thru the back and it looks like there are two fans, one in the middle blowing on some heatsinks and closer to the (on the opposite side of where all the ports are). Sounds like that side (furthest away from the all the ports/inputs) is the right place to put a fan. Right?

I'd prefer one that is easy to attach and will stay attached. I do have Velcro around though.
post #15135 of 15628
^^^
Nobody regarding fans?

How about this one? http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Mobile-Fan-External-Cooling/dp/B00080G0BK/ref=pd_sim_e_1

My local Fry's seems to have that one, but for a little more than Amazon's price.
post #15136 of 15628
Have had my HL 61A750 for years now and it has been trouble free............BUT.............has given me my 1st "heads up!" because last night while starting to watch the news, I lost both audio and video, I have DirecTV so I tried other channels
ALL blank. I tried the DTV Receiver self check and that was not it..........so I had ability to use Menu/Program Schedule etc. on the DTV Receiver but still NO audio or video signal. I started tracing my HDMI connections from DTV Receiver to myy Pioneer A/V Receiver etc...............I have been using one of those 3D Adapters in the mix in order to get 3D fm DTV - so the HDMI Cable from DTV Receiver 1st goes to it and then from there to the A/V Receiver. I figured that must be my "weak link"......
I also have a HTPC conncted up in the Entertainment equipement which I hadn't turned on in ages.......BUT.........figured if I turned it on then I could test to see IF my HDTV was incapable of displaying audio and video now..........GLAD I was able to do that, because I found that the TV did still display audio and video. I went to bed figuring that due to the above experiences that this AM I would just disconnect the special 3D adapter and take it out of the equation and go direct with the HDMI cable fm SAT Receiver to A/V Receiver and thus do w/o 3D [have not been watching 3D anyway].

BUT.....this AM I 1st turned on my SAT/A/V Receiver, and HDTV normally and WALA it was all working as NORMAL?????


Just guessing here - but could that possibly mean that a Power Supply unit w/in the 61A750 is dieing and that I can probably look forward to after it being on a certain amount of time I will probably lose audio and video again and again until finally the PS will die totally and then of course NO a/v at all???

PLEASE advise...................I have NO Insurance on my HDTV...........THANKS, michael
post #15137 of 15628
Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Tech View Post

...PS, before I get Mits fan boyz after me for saying Sammys and Mits use the same technology... Terminology has been raped by commercialism, by stretching the limits of standards. There is no way a real laser would be used in a RPTV. The weakest true laser is far too bright than what our LEDs are capable of. Along with that, the cost of having 3 lasers would make the Mits DLP a bit steep that what it was originally sold for.



Hmmm. then explain this Federally Mandated warning in the Mitsubishi Owner's Manual:



http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/asset/file/owners_guide/OG-L75-A94.pdf
post #15138 of 15628
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberized View Post

Have had my HL 61A750 for years now and it has been trouble free............BUT.............has given me my 1st "heads up!" because last night while starting to watch the news, I lost both audio and video, I have DirecTV so I tried other channels
ALL blank. I tried the DTV Receiver self check and that was not it..........so I had ability to use Menu/Program Schedule etc. on the DTV Receiver but still NO audio or video signal. I started tracing my HDMI connections from DTV Receiver to myy Pioneer A/V Receiver etc...............I have been using one of those 3D Adapters in the mix in order to get 3D fm DTV - so the HDMI Cable from DTV Receiver 1st goes to it and then from there to the A/V Receiver. I figured that must be my "weak link"......
I also have a HTPC conncted up in the Entertainment equipement which I hadn't turned on in ages.......BUT.........figured if I turned it on then I could test to see IF my HDTV was incapable of displaying audio and video now..........GLAD I was able to do that, because I found that the TV did still display audio and video. I went to bed figuring that due to the above experiences that this AM I would just disconnect the special 3D adapter and take it out of the equation and go direct with the HDMI cable fm SAT Receiver to A/V Receiver and thus do w/o 3D [have not been watching 3D anyway].
BUT.....this AM I 1st turned on my SAT/A/V Receiver, and HDTV normally and WALA it was all working as NORMAL?????
Just guessing here - but could that possibly mean that a Power Supply unit w/in the 61A750 is dieing and that I can probably look forward to after it being on a certain amount of time I will probably lose audio and video again and again until finally the PS will die totally and then of course NO a/v at all???
PLEASE advise...................I have NO Insurance on my HDTV...........THANKS, michael

More likely that an hdcp "on going authentication" failed, thus causing the tv to "block" the channel.
post #15139 of 15628
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberized View Post

Have had my HL 61A750 for years now and it has been trouble free............BUT.............has given me my 1st "heads up!" because last night while starting to watch the news, I lost both audio and video, I have DirecTV so I tried other channels
ALL blank. I tried the DTV Receiver self check and that was not it..........so I had ability to use Menu/Program Schedule etc. on the DTV Receiver but still NO audio or video signal. I started tracing my HDMI connections from DTV Receiver to myy Pioneer A/V Receiver etc...............I have been using one of those 3D Adapters in the mix in order to get 3D fm DTV - so the HDMI Cable from DTV Receiver 1st goes to it and then from there to the A/V Receiver. I figured that must be my "weak link"......
I also have a HTPC conncted up in the Entertainment equipement which I hadn't turned on in ages.......BUT.........figured if I turned it on then I could test to see IF my HDTV was incapable of displaying audio and video now..........GLAD I was able to do that, because I found that the TV did still display audio and video. I went to bed figuring that due to the above experiences that this AM I would just disconnect the special 3D adapter and take it out of the equation and go direct with the HDMI cable fm SAT Receiver to A/V Receiver and thus do w/o 3D [have not been watching 3D anyway].
BUT.....this AM I 1st turned on my SAT/A/V Receiver, and HDTV normally and WALA it was all working as NORMAL?????
Just guessing here - but could that possibly mean that a Power Supply unit w/in the 61A750 is dieing and that I can probably look forward to after it being on a certain amount of time I will probably lose audio and video again and again until finally the PS will die totally and then of course NO a/v at all???
PLEASE advise...................I have NO Insurance on my HDTV...........THANKS, michael

Hi,

Try unplugging power on both AV receiver, and TV for about 2 minutes.

I have had Directv for 4 years and never had an issue with their boxes outside of them breaking apps time to time.

We have HR22 and HR24 units.

New tech seems to be problematic with power issues. Mainly because of software is used to load instructions to the processor inside each unit for function. Once a glitch happens, the programming may be need resetting. Unfortunately all new A/V equipment is always on once plugged in. Even though you power off, the main board still has standby power for settings retention.

There is no soft reset outside of doing a full reset using button sequences while powering on.

By unplugging for a few minutes the unit will reset, and allow proper function.

I had a very similar issue with my Blue-ray player. Everything was good (A/V audio, Directv video, and DLP picture) until I started up my Blue-ray and loaded a movie.

For the life of me no audio was being passed through HDMI, no matter how I set the output on the Blue-ray player.

To make sure everything was proper, I unplugged the DLP TV, A/V receiver and Blue-ray. Once things were powered back on, everything was normal again.
Edited by Low Tech - 7/26/12 at 4:58am
post #15140 of 15628
Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Tech View Post

snip...
PS, before I get Mits fan boyz after me for saying Sammys and Mits use the same technology... Terminology has been raped by commercialism, by stretching the limits of standards. There is no way a real laser would be used in a RPTV. The weakest true laser is far too bright than what our LEDs are capable of.
snip...
I'd like to hear your definition of a "real laser" or a "true laser". Sounds to me like you're thinking of the bulky laboratory models that use gas ion tubes.

Solid state lasers are available from a few milliwatts up to dozens or hundreds of watts. Don't you consider those to be "real"? They emit coherent monochromatic light, and can be colimated. The ones at the low end of the power scale are certainly less bright than the LEDs in the Samsung sets. I think you don't know of what you speak.
post #15141 of 15628
A bit of a delay getting the right part and stuff. But warranty techs got it fixed (the dim line down the left side). Anyway I'm curious. Besides Mit, because I really don't like or trust Mit. It's a shame no one else is capitalizing on DLP. In 5 years, what else could possibly replace being able to buy a near 70" TV with outstanding picture for $1500? What TV type could possibly replace it, or in 5 years will Mit still be our only option?

I'm guessing Plasma is heading there as the current cheapest option for large TVs but I don't see them viable as really large screens (70" to 90") because of the weight. Could it be LED as cheap option vs OLED as the more expensive option?
post #15142 of 15628
Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post

Solid state lasers are available from a few milliwatts up to dozens or hundreds of watts. The ones at the low end of the power scale are certainly less bright than the LEDs in the Samsung sets. I think you don't know of what you speak.

I am not sure about wattage over luminosity as you put it.

Do to various light emitting properties in substrates or with charged gases, it may take more wattage to produce the same amount of intensity over one type of laser than another.

Since you fired off generally about wattage being the prime indicator for intensity, you have gotten yourself into the same mess as I with generalization. Just letting you know, because I don't really care and I am not nit picky about peeps.

My statement was in general about mits tvs having lasers, just because the warning label states class 4 laser. Class 4 laser warning is a statement in general terms. Caution should be taken as there is a highly focused intense beam.

Since you took the clip from another reply, the whole judgement is out of context. I do not take warning labels as a technical data sheet. Again the word Laser is a general term in commercial electronics.

Modified LED technology used as has been used in laser tech since the late 70's. The first commercial laser diode was in Video Disc technology.

Laser LED is basically a generalist term, the true technology behind the device is not given, unless you have the data sheet. Engineers will be more specific about details, since no engineer has come forward as of yet, I will stand by my generalist term (Laser LED or Laser Diode) for just about any commercial laser in electronics devices.

As for real laser vs laser like properties, Laser has become a general term now these days. Anything is considered laser as long as the focal point allows maximum intensity within a small focused area.

Killing ants with a magnifying glass is a basic laser.

I generally give information, and it seems one can take my information and twist to there needs. Because of my generalist views, I do not care what people think of me. The internet is huge, if they want to know more they can find it them selves.
Edited by Low Tech - 7/27/12 at 6:36am
post #15143 of 15628
Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Tech View Post

My statement was in general about mits tvs having lasers, just because the warning label states class 4 laser. Class 4 laser warning is a statement in general terms. Caution should be taken as there is a highly focused intense beam...

Since you took the clip from another reply, the whole judgement is out of context. I do not take warning labels as a technical data sheet. Again the word Laser is a general term in commercial electronics.

Modified LED technology used as has been used in laser tech since the late 70's. The first commercial laser diode was in Video Disc technology.

Laser LED is basically a generalist term, the true technology behind the device is not given, unless you have the data sheet. Engineers will be more specific about details, since no engineer has come forward as of yet, I will stand by my generalist term (Laser LED or Laser Diode) for just about any commercial laser in electronics devices.

As for real laser vs laser like properties, Laser has become a general term now these days. Anything is considered laser as long as the focal point allows maximum intensity within a small focused area.

Killing ants with a magnifying glass is a basic laser.

I generally give information, and it seems one can take my information and twist to there needs. Because of my generalist views, I do not care what people think of me. The internet is huge, if they want to know more they can find it them selves.

You are obviously misinformed on the subject.

LASER = Light Amplification by the Stimulation and Emission of Radiation. It is a coherent beam of limited wavelength. A sunbeam through a magnifying glass can by no means be considered a laser, nor can any device which does not lase.

Class 4 laser is not a general statement! It is a government required safety classification applying only to laser devices. http://www.fda.gov/Radiation-EmittingProducts/RadiationEmittingProductsandProcedures/HomeBusinessandEntertainment/LaserProductsandInstruments/default.htm


There are 4 classes of laser, with 4 being the highest and most dangerous rating. The low power lasers cosmicvoid referred to are Class 1 lasers. The lasers in Mitsubishi's LaserVue TV are Class 4 lasers enclosed in a protective housing. The complete assembly is rated Class 1 because of the housing.

Claiming to be “generalizing” does not make you any less wrong. Lasers have a very specific scientific definition that can’t be generalized. Instead of pointing other people to the internet, I recommend that you take the time to do a bit of studying yourself, rather than posting ridiculous statements as truth.
post #15144 of 15628
I have searched and searched this thread to no avail...does anyone have some decent settings for PC gaming on this set? I am tinkering with the Standard mode, but can't get the contrast/brightness quite right. The Entertainment Game mode is a total POS. Any thoughts?
post #15145 of 15628
Has anyone else tried a Darblet with their LED DLP Sammy yet? I took mine out of the theater last night so mom-in-law who has a hard time getting around could watch the 2012 Olympic opening ceremonies with my wife and I in our living room on my 61A750. Rather than dealing with steps to get to the theater where I would rather have seen them.

The DarbeeVision processing plays really really nice with the Sammy. It is like a new and improved set if you can imagine that. More depth, clarity and sharpness. Justy an FYI. I'm 3 years in with this set and still love it. The Darblet takes it to a new level.
post #15146 of 15628
Hi all. Purchased this set in 2008, I believe...and its still working good as new...except for the common fan replacement, which I did myself a few weeks ago.

After the repair I noticed a couple of octagon shaped shadows/highlights in the upper-mid portion of the screen. Looked like dust got on the projector lens. This weekend I took the set apart again, thoroughly cleaned the screen, mirror, and lens at the bottom. I couldn't find anything else accessible to clean, so I reassembled the set, confident I had cleaned all I could. Well, no such luck, now I have over a dozen dust-bunnies being projected on the screen. They are only noticeable during dark scenes...but they are VERY noticeable.

So, I have to disassemble the set, yet again...but, could use some guidance on what to remove and clean? Do I need to go to the other end of the long black "light tunnel"? If yes, can I screw up focus or anything if doing so?

Thanks for any help...This set is the best TV bargain I've ever seen...and just want it back to "normal".

Thanks/
post #15147 of 15628
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post


LASER = Light Amplification by the Stimulation and Emission of Radiation. It is a coherent beam of limited wavelength. A sunbeam through a magnifying glass can by no means be considered a laser, nor can any device which does not lase.

Class 4 laser is not a general statement! It is a government required safety classification applying only to laser devices. http://www.fda.gov/Radiation-EmittingProducts/RadiationEmittingProductsandProcedures/HomeBusinessandEntertainment/LaserProductsandInstruments/default.htm
There are 4 classes of laser, with 4 being the highest and most dangerous rating. The low power lasers cosmicvoid referred to are Class 1 lasers. The lasers in Mitsubishi's LaserVue TV are Class 4 lasers enclosed in a protective housing. The complete assembly is rated Class 1 because of the housing.

Laser is a broad technology. You are making it so narrow that it seems your knowledge is mostly quotes from your sources.

IIRC LED devices are not required to have any standards as with Laser Diodes.

You should look up Laser diodes, they are hi-intensity LED devices with integral lens structure to produce a focused beam. Made exclusively for Laser applications.

Now with specialized uses becoming more prevalent, specialized Laser Diodes are too costly or mainstream commercial devices when LED technology has downsized considerably to the point of allowing the manufacturer to design around the focusing of the beam to be part of the complete device, not the diode its self.

This also cuts costs since, manufactures do not need to comply with manufacturing rules and mandates for Laser devices in order to market to the US and foreign countries. Thus no warning label required.

None the less, any technology that can focus light down to a narrow beam is considered a laser. Just Hi-intensity LED by its self cannot be classified as a laser. The this is because the light is not narrowly focused into a beam by its design. Though the Laser Diode and LED have the same light capabilities, in fact they are the same device, just no focal lens on the LED. LED devices are very directional on there own, about 60 degrees of radiant light.

My generalist approach with sunlight is valid, though one lens is not going to be the best implementation.

By using a UV pass filter (only UV light can be transmitted), and lenses, you can make a fairly powerful UV laser from the sun. As goes with IR pass filter, or using the narrowest wavelength (visible light) with UV and IR blocking filters.

From what you have been stating all along the way, shows you have a very narrow understanding even when you show us how broad your information really is.

Yes you can argue all you want that Samsungs doesn't have Mits' 3 Lasers, but none the less the light from the LED devices are focused beams from the light engine which is doing the function of a single laser. While the light being produced at the pannel being no different than your Mits lasers. By doing so, it is more cost effective, along with not requiring a warning label.
Edited by Low Tech - 7/31/12 at 6:09am
post #15148 of 15628
Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Tech View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post


LASER = Light Amplification by the Stimulation and Emission of Radiation. It is a coherent beam of limited wavelength. A sunbeam through a magnifying glass can by no means be considered a laser, nor can any device which does not lase.

Class 4 laser is not a general statement! It is a government required safety classification applying only to laser devices. http://www.fda.gov/Radiation-EmittingProducts/RadiationEmittingProductsandProcedures/HomeBusinessandEntertainment/LaserProductsandInstruments/default.htm
There are 4 classes of laser, with 4 being the highest and most dangerous rating. The low power lasers cosmicvoid referred to are Class 1 lasers. The lasers in Mitsubishi's LaserVue TV are Class 4 lasers enclosed in a protective housing. The complete assembly is rated Class 1 because of the housing.

Laser is a broad technology. You are making it so narrow that it seems your knowledge is mostly quotes from your sources.

IIRC LED devices are not required to have any standards as with Laser Diodes.

You should look up Laser diodes, they are hi-intensity LED devices with integral lens structure to produce a focused beam. Made exclusively for Laser applications.

Now with specialized uses becoming more prevalent, specialized Laser Diodes are too costly or mainstream commercial devices when LED technology has downsized considerably to the point of allowing the manufacturer to design around the focusing of the beam to be part of the complete device, not the diode its self.

This also cuts costs since, manufactures do not need to comply with manufacturing rules and mandates for Laser devices in order to market to the US and foreign countries. Thus no warning label required.

None the less, any technology that can focus light down to a narrow beam is considered a laser. Just Hi-intensity LED by its self cannot be classified as a laser. The this is because the light is not narrowly focused into a beam by its design. Though the Laser Diode and LED have the same light capabilities, in fact they are the same device, just no focal lens on the LED. LED devices are very directional on there own, about 60 degrees of radiant light.

My generalist approach with sunlight is valid, though one lens is not going to be the best implementation.

By using a UV pass filter (only UV light can be transmitted), and lenses, you can make a fairly powerful UV laser from the sun. As goes with IR pass filter, or using the narrowest wavelength (visible light) with UV and IR blocking filters.

From what you have been stating all along the way, shows you have a very narrow understanding even when you show us how broad your information really is.

Yes you can argue all you want that Samsungs doesn't have Mits' 3 Lasers, but none the less the light from the LED devices are focused beams from the light engine which is doing the function of a single laser. While the light being produced at the pannel being no different than your Mits lasers. By doing so, it is more cost effective, along with not requiring a warning label.

Coherent light is not the same as focused light. While LEDs can be focused, they do not emit coherent light, nor does the sun. Only lasers emit coherent light. I'm really sorry that you don't understand the difference, but I am satisfied that most everyone else does. Have a nice day. smile.gif
post #15149 of 15628
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

Coherent light is not the same as focused light. While LEDs can be focused, they do not emit coherent light, nor does the sun. Only lasers emit coherent light. I'm really sorry that you don't understand the difference, but I am satisfied that most everyone else does. Have a nice day. smile.gif

Really??? LED devices have been producing coherent light commercially since the 70's. IR remotes for example. 900nm is a very narrow wave length compared to visible light. As of recent, LED tech has been producing very narrow wave length visible light spectrum without filtering.

You seem to not have much knowledge, as you have been so quick to find a way out of this discussion without any validity.

Again lasers is a broad technology, and you should understand a narrowly focused beam is the basics of a laser, whether it is emitted by charged gas or through solid state devices. The type of light does not mean it is a laser.

Your class 4 warning label is only needed if the component to the device is not safe when operating disassembled. LED components that are not manufactured as laser diodes, are safe to operate disassembled... So no warning label is needed even though the light intensity is the same or even higher than a similar laser component.

Like I said before the Mits lasers are just laser diodes, which are a LED device that have a focusing lens built in.

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electronic/leds.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solar-pumped_laser

You should be sorry for your limited reasoning, not mine.
Edited by Low Tech - 8/1/12 at 7:27am
post #15150 of 15628
Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Tech View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

Coherent light is not the same as focused light. While LEDs can be focused, they do not emit coherent light, nor does the sun. Only lasers emit coherent light. I'm really sorry that you don't understand the difference, but I am satisfied that most everyone else does. Have a nice day. smile.gif

Really??? LED devices have been producing coherent light commercially since the 70's. IR remotes for example. 900nm is a very narrow wave length compared to visible light. As of recent, LED tech has been producing very narrow wave length visible light spectrum without filtering.
Laser Diodes and LEDs are semiconductor devices, but LEDs are not lasers, just as LEDs are not transistors. The IR blaster in your remote is not a laser, it is just an LED.
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...Again lasers is a broad technology, and you should understand a narrowly focused beam is the basics of a laser, whether it is emitted by charged gas or through solid state devices. The type of light does not mean it is a laser.
Focusing does not make light lase. A laser lases well before it is focused by any lens. The type of light is what DEFINES a laser, and that type is coherent light. Laser light is coherent, collimated and monochromatic. LED light is not.
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Your class 4 warning label is only needed if the component to the device is not safe when operating disassembled. LED components that are not manufactured as laser diodes, are safe to operate disassembled... So no warning label is needed even though the light intensity is the same or even higher than a similar laser component.
LEDs have no warning because they won't burn flesh and one's retina. rolleyes.gif Class 4 lasers will.
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Like I said before the Mits lasers are just laser diodes, which are a LED device that have a focusing lens built in.
No, what you said before was that lasers weren't used in Mits TV at all.
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Originally Posted by Low Tech View Post

...There is no way a real laser would be used in a RPTV...
You said they were just LEDs being marketed as lasers. (a laser diode lases well before it gets to any focusing lens. As shall be shown, it is not the same as an LED with a focusing lens)
From your own link
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the LED structure is placed in a tiny reflective cup so that the light from the active layer will be reflected toward the desired exit direction.

As shown above, LEDs emit incoherent light that is focused like a flashlight.

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Laser action (with the resultant monochromatic and coherent light output) can be achieved in a p-n junction formed by two doped gallium arsenide layers. The two ends of the structure need to be optically flat and parallel with one end mirrored and one partially reflective. The length of the junction must be precisely related to the wavelength of the light to be emitted. The junction is forward biased and the recombination process produces light as in the LED (incoherent). [The difference being that] Above a certain current threshold the photons moving parallel to the junction can stimulate emission and initiate laser action.



LEDs emit incoherent light that is focused like a flashlight. Lasers (including laser diodes) are built to emit coherent light. As shown, this happens before any lenses or focusing reflectors come into play. That is the difference. The LEDs in your remotes and your samsung DLP can't do that, because they are LEDs, not laser diodes. They cannot lase.

You may not have an electronic background, so here's a link you may find easier to read. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laser_diode
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A laser diode is a laser whose active medium is a semiconductor similar to that found in a light-emitting diode.
Notice the words "a semiconductor similar to". "Similar" is not "equal to". a regular diode is similar to an LED, and it emits no light at all. A transistor is similar, (with an additional P or N layer), and it emits no light either.
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Spontaneous emission gives the laser diode below lasing threshold similar properties to an LED. Spontaneous emission is necessary to initiate laser oscillation

Again, those pesky words "similar to", and then ONLY "similar" when below lasing threshold, (LEDs can't lase, because they're designed differently).

Here's another basic primer on laser diodes for you. http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/laserdio.htm#diocss2
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While a laser diode is a true laser and not just a glorified (and expensive) LED, there are major difference compared to a gas or solid state laser...

...Yes indeed, a diode laser is a true laser.

Edited by Augerhandle - 8/1/12 at 5:31pm
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