2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 507

u need a new power supply

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190698180033?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

"Low Tech", I need your advice buddy. I am considering initiating a full factory reset within the service menu. I am aware that you have followed through with the procedure yourself and have a few questions:

-Besides my optimized CCA, Desaturation, Cinema CCA, the GAMMA preset, SP Actuator, and Expert settings.......are there any other variables that I should expect to change (such as the Sharpness, DDP3021, BHP_VDEC, BHP_VD, etc..etc menus)?

-Is the DMD board also reset, or did you find that you had to perform a Digital ->DMD CCA data transfer?

-Will the factory reset zero out the LED timer?

The reason why I am considering performing a complete reset is due to a strange issue:

_Two nights ago one of my 3 way HDMI auto switches fizzled out. HDMI port 3 still works properly and no equipment was damaged (the PS3, 3DC-1000 and Darblet seem fine). However some aspects of the picture quality are not the same now as they were prior to the auto switch failure.

Gray scale tracking is now slightly off. GAMMA performance is strange...faces look too bright and clothing too dark....yet I have confirmed that there is absolutely no black crush. Toying with the user menu GAMMA ramp does not improve the symptoms. All inputs, including the built-in ATSC/QAM tuner, show the same abnormality. However, 1080P resolution tests are fine, as are all primary color accuracy charts.

Disconnected the TV and all equipment from the mains overnight. Did not solve the problem.

I then went into the service menu to double check all of my calibration settings and they have not changed. Totally at a loss.

Final resort is to do a factory reset which will hopefully clear out whatever data glitch is causing this. Otherwise I'll probably be needing a new system board.

Never thought that a failed switch could cause such a headache. A fried HDMI port, sure, but something like this? It just doesn't make any sense.

Alright, decided to go ahead with the factory reset. Also discovered that I had to initiate an EEPROM + WB reset to completely wipe my previous calibration settings.

Of course I took photos of the entire service menu footprint prior to blanking things.

Really no big deal, everything simply defaults to OEM settings.

OEM is now way too yellowish/blue even under Warm 2. Tried entering my old calibration settings and they still do not look right (red push with yellowish highlights). Lee's recommended settings no longer jive either, way too bluish-red.. Looks like I have to start from square 1.

I won't have the time to walk the set through a recalibration until next week.

In the meantime I used that nifty CCA self-calibration feature (the built-in color sensor is surprisingly accurate). It's not perfect, but at least the picture is acceptable for now.
Edited by KewlK - 9/29/12 at 10:45am

I am having an issue with my 61A750. It will not come on. After pressing the power button the right most green button starts flashing "like normal" and that is it. it just keeps flashing. Just the one left most green light. The manual says it means that the tv is turning on in 15 sec. There may be a slight flash on the screen as normal like it is turning on but nothing else happens. I do hear fan noise when it comes on. Once in this state pushing the power button or remote does not put it back in stand-by. The second green light indicates it is getting key presses from remote as well.

I have unplugged and let it set at least 5 min and re-tried several times.. same results.
Thanks in Advance for any clue.

do u hear the melody when u turn it on?

No I do not hear melody. I have had the back off now and the two fans I see are running and there are a couple lights on in the center board.
It does not go to all three lights blinking like others post.

So to refresh ...
I plug in ... center button is blue ... one red on right side on.
Push center button .. blue goes away .. I green light starts to blink(normal one for start up) very light flashing in screen .. I think twice the intensity goes up and down.

Green light just continues to blink ... nothing happens.

Thanks for your response

u probably need a new power supply

Is this a possible solution? Although I do not see any discoloration as he describes. And unfortunately some of his pics are missing.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1376634/samsung-led-dlp-hlxxa750a1f-easy-fix

also you say probably .. is there anything else it could be? Where is the best place to get a power supply if so?

heres the power supply

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190698180033?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

heres the main board

http://www.partstore.com/Part/Samsung/Samsung/HL67A750A1F/Samsung/Samsung/BP9402326A/New.aspx



the best way to find out exactly what u need is to have a reputable tv tech come out and diagnose the problem




thats what i did (paid $99) then i bought the parts and installed them myself
paid $300 total for the parts

tv tech wanted $600 for parts and labor
Edited by domingos38 - 10/6/12 at 8:20am

I have had my HL67A750 for a few years and love it, but a few weeks ago the HDMI1 input stopped working. I checked the cables and tried multiple sources and no luck. Everything works with the HDMI2 & 3 inputs but the same devices/cables get the message "Mode not supported" when I try to connect them to HDMI1. Any thoughts on what the problem might be?

Thanks,
Rick

Hi Rick, unfortunately the only way to repair this issue would be to acquire a replacement system board. It's not worth the money or time just to get back one HDMI port.

Shifted most of the error from blue to red. All primary & secondary color targets, grayscale tracking temp and gamma are perfect.

Stinks that there aren't any luminescence controls within the desat menu, CCA must be left alone once dialed in. BTW I'm using Color HCFR with an i1Display2.

The Factory/EEPROM/WB reset did get rid of the bizarre highlights issue, but not the increased dithering.

I am going to experiment further with the data bandwidth controls to see if image clarity can be increased.

Highly suspect that the mainboard was somehow slightly damaged when that HDMI switch went out (as mentioned in an earlier post).

The picture fidelity is no longer as crystal clear. Acceptable, yet a little fuzzy, not as nice as it was before.
Edited by KewlK - 10/8/12 at 7:39am

I am having the exact same problem with my HLT5689. Samsung replaced both power supplies and the tv still has the same problem. Tech thinks it is the LED driver, but is not sure. I don't want to purchase a LED board just and not be able to return if it is really the main board that is the problem. Let us know what you find out.

I took a peak into the HL61A750/HL67A750/HL-T6189S service manual. Unfortunately section 4-3 (which covers the front panel LED error codes) does not list what "tjcamp" has described.

Sure, it's logical for the tech to suspect the LED board. However, I personally would go with a new main board first. Much more likely that is the problem.

My latest run from last night (gamut sRGB):



No way to get rid of all the red push due to lack of usable luminescence controls. Chose to set the color control at 46.

The primary Ys within the CCA don't work as expected and should be left at default. Entering your own primary parameter sensor readings will yield no better end results, again, just leave them at default.

Yellow is difficult to precisely target in sRGB (is much easier under WIDE). Under NORMAL gamut, the grayscale is almost impossible to stabilize and is useless in my opinion.

All in all I'm OK with these current results.

As a curiosity I will be recalibrating to D75. Although I've always been fine with D65, I feel that it's overly "earthy" and kind of well, boring.

Supposedly D75 visually looks more stunning (without going overboard).

Tried D75 and didn't like it. Too blue.

I replaced the LED driver with no help to the TV. As someone mentioned it is probable related to the main board which is very expensice.

An update on my situation. The TV has come back on. After having it disconnected overnight I plugged it back in and it came back on fine. After putting it in stand-by and turning it back on it resumes the issue where the chime does not happen and a few slight flashes with the right most led continues to blink.

It has come back on twice since. As we speak I do have it on for football. While on there is another symptom ... the tv went to static all grey pixalated and rebooted .... actually came back up.

I plan on buying a power supply this weekend and will report later if that helps.


Does the fact that it is intermittent in powering up directly point to the power supply not being able to switch (I am a layman) the boot process on?

Yes, the symptoms you describe are very typical for a bad power supply. It is either under volting (or even worse over volting) the main board and possibly other components as well.

The best advice I can give you is to not use the TV until a new power supply is installed. Otherwise you are risking a cascading domino effect of further part failures.

Need some assistance here. Was watching TV last night and the picture went out. Still could hear sound thru the speakers. Turned the TV off and back on, the blue ring illuminates, does the Samsung chime, green LED flashes but no picture what-so-ever. Opened up the back and caps all look good as far as I can tell. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!

Looks like the secondary power supply (SUB-SMPS) went out.

Thanks for the reply! Anything that I should be looking at to make sure that's it? You don't possibly have a part number, do you?

BP96-01726B is the part #

Are you comfortable using a voltmeter/multi-meter? Some of the necessary readings are in tight spots, one is high voltage and dangerous.

Thanks KewlK! I do have a multimeter. I am comfortable around this stuff. What am I looking for?

OK, the TV needs to be powered on with the lower back cover removed.

The ballast cable runs from the main power supply all the way to the secondary (SUB-SMPS). The ballast cable consists of only two wires, blue & brown. They terminate to a white connector seated into the SUB-SMPS board.

Now grab the multi-meter and set it to read safely up to 500VDC (yes DC, NOT AC).

*CAREFULLY* insert each probe into each channel of the ballast connector (polarity does not matter). What you want to see is between 160 to 400 volts DC coming from the main power supply. If so, move to to the next step.

Turn off the TV and unplug it from the AC. Set your meter to read for shorts (usually the 200 Ohm setting). Check the fuse on the SUB-SMPS. If it is blown, it likely did so due to onboard component failure, likely due to bad caps. If not blown, there are some final readings to take.

You will see another connector, 8 pins / gray wires (if I recall correctly). This cable leads directly to the LED power board, and is the voltage source for it.

Plug the TV back in and turn it on again. Set the meter to read up to 20VDC. The first three pairs of pins should read 16 volts, the last one is NC. So your ideally looking for three readings of 16 volts for each pair. If any one reading is dead or low, then it is definitely the SUB-SMPS. If all three pairs check out.....then you need a new LED power board.
Edited by KewlK - 10/20/12 at 1:02pm

I received my new power supply and the TV is back to normal. I am going to buy some parts and fix the old one as a backup.

Thanks for all your help.

KewlK -- I appreciate the write-up. If we get this working, I'll buy you a beer.

OK, finally got my mutli-meter back from my brother in law. I measured the voltage at the SUB-SMPS, which is the blue and brown wires going all the way across to the other side of the TV. Read 162V which is on the low end of your 160-400V range but I assume it's OK with no video source. Fuse checked out OK. Finally measured the gray wires leading into the LED power board. (there are actually 6, 3 pairs). Each measured at 16V exactly.

So your thinking is that LED power board is at fault? What's the part number for that then?
Edited by ovel2clock - 10/21/12 at 5:42pm

Good thing that you took those measurements. Yes, it is the LED power board then. Part # BP94-02327A