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2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 508

post #15211 of 15631
Thanks KewlK! Purchased one off ebay. I'll follow up and let you know how it all turns out. Thanks again!
post #15212 of 15631
I am having a very similar problem. TV screen blank. No sound. I DO have the start up sound, though. The three led lights blink on and then off (normally a bulb issue, but these units don't use a bulb, LED - which is why i bought this one.) Seems very troubling after just three years of use.
Could this also be the power supply?

Thanks for any help offered.
DWR
post #15213 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by KewlK View Post

Good thing that you took those measurements. Yes, it is the LED power board then. Part # BP94-02327A

TV is working after replacing the LED driver board! Thanks KewlK - your knowledge and helpfulness saved me lots of money. PM me your paypal address... I owe you a beer wink.gif
post #15214 of 15631
So glad to see this old thread still active. I guess all of us are having age issues now. Our HL61750 has to have all the video settings severely turned down to almost a faded viewing screen to stop it from flickering really bad. It seems to get worse once it warms up.

surprisingly, it is absolutely fine on Antenna. Dish is going to send another box 722vip replacement, but i fear it's not going to be the dvr.

has anyone else found it to be fine on antenna and crappy on hdmi/dish box? We've tried different HDMI cables and changed to a different HDMI port with no change.

thx. my husband said he'll use it until it dies, but i can't stand watching it. I have a cheapo 32" dynex LCD in another room that is pristine in comparison to the samsung now.
post #15215 of 15631
We basically now only see complaints on this thread, which is to be expected.

I wonder what pct of people have had no troubles with their sets, because they probably dont post here, and may not even know this forum exists. I have my set since December of 2008, and we are retired and watch it a million hours a day, and the set is still 100% perfect and i have never had a single problem with it.

I have always had cable as my provider (a few different companies), and i use cheap HDMI cables from monoprice to connect to the cable box and bluray player.

Am i lucky, or am i more normal than most here think?

Or am is my set a timebomb about to explode???eek.gif
post #15216 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by yankeeman View Post

We basically now only see complaints on this thread, which is to be expected.
I wonder what pct of people have had no troubles with their sets, because they probably dont post here, and may not even know this forum exists. I have my set since December of 2008, and we are retired and watch it a million hours a day, and the set is still 100% perfect and i have never had a single problem with it.
I have always had cable as my provider (a few different companies), and i use cheap HDMI cables from monoprice to connect to the cable box and bluray player.
Am i lucky, or am i more normal than most here think?
Or am is my set a timebomb about to explode???eek.gif

I too have had mine since Dec 2008. It does not get nearly as much use as yours (~10 hrs a week). I have DirecTV (no locals), Blu Ray, and Roku, all fed into an AVR then to the TV with the same Monoprice HDMI cables and OTA for local channels. It's all protected through a Panamax Power conditoner (that includes all ethernet, phone and coaxes coming into the setup). I hope I am not on shaky ground either.
post #15217 of 15631
Have had ours since summer '09.
It gets 10-12 hours use per day. Not a single problem and still on original bulb. The PQ is still very pleasing for our uses.
post #15218 of 15631
I replaced my dmd chip today. It took me about an hour following a manual posted here. Fired up the tv and it works fine now. We'll see for how long. Had to do this myself as Samsung refused to support it. Bought the chip on amazon.
post #15219 of 15631
TV was working perfectly up until 2 weeks go when the led driver board went out. Bought sometime in 2008. We use about 8 hours a day. When I opened the back it did have quite a bit of dust around the fans. Since there's no filter, it sucks any particulate in where it sticks to the heatsinks. The led driver board looked a bit burnt, I'm sure from the reduced airflow. KewlK helped me with the diagnostics and its back up and running after replacing that board.

Going to make it a habit to clean it out yearly. Glad to hear others with more usage aren't having issues. I love this TV and hope to enjoy it for a few more years!
post #15220 of 15631
Guess I'm not out of the woods yet. After replacing the LED driver board, the TV will not show a picture after a few hours of being on. Turning off, waiting a bit, then turning back on brings the picture back. Not the input source as the TVs volume bar doesn't show up on the TV.

Any ideas?

[Edit] Took off back cover and pointed a fan directly at the back to see if it's a overheating situation. I'll post an update with my findings.
Edited by ovel2clock - 10/28/12 at 10:54am
post #15221 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by ovel2clock View Post

TV was working perfectly up until 2 weeks go when the led driver board went out. Bought sometime in 2008. We use about 8 hours a day. When I opened the back it did have quite a bit of dust around the fans. Since there's no filter, it sucks any particulate in where it sticks to the heatsinks. The led driver board looked a bit burnt, I'm sure from the reduced airflow. KewlK helped me with the diagnostics and its back up and running after replacing that board.
Going to make it a habit to clean it out yearly. Glad to hear others with more usage aren't having issues. I love this TV and hope to enjoy it for a few more years!

I've always wondered if airflow had a part in the failures. How easy (or hard) is it to clean out? Is there a space where an exhaust fan could safely be installed? I do clean out our computer at least every 6 months for the same reason.
post #15222 of 15631
So Sad a few days ago I lost my red LED and now tonight my Green bit the bullet. Should I replace those two or just get all three. I am pretty upset because this has been a great set for 5 years now. any advice is welcome. I'm perfectly capable of doing the work myself btw. Just trying to decide on fixing this or getting a Sharp LC-70C8470U or a Panasonic VT50.
Edited by indymx6 - 10/29/12 at 10:35pm
post #15223 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by yankeeman View Post

We basically now only see complaints on this thread, which is to be expected.
I wonder what pct of people have had no troubles with their sets, because they probably dont post here, and may not even know this forum exists.
My 67a750 is now 4 years old, and I've had zero problems with it. It gets 6 hours use most days.

I'm debating with myself whether to take the trouble of opening it and vacuuming out the dust.
post #15224 of 15631

Samsung LED DLP 61A750A .... need help, picture has "red static".

Looking for help diagnosing my tv. It just suddenly started having this "red static". Twice after turning it off and back on, I was able to get picture to return to normal. The first time it lasted for a good month. Second was just till the next power cycle. If i enter the service menu and run the test pattern all the colors are correct and the "red static" is not there.
Also, the hdmi inputs seem to no longer be detected. (thats why i cant show a live tv picture with the digital "red static" all over it) Not sure if this is related.

post #15225 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post

My 67a750 is now 4 years old, and I've had zero problems with it. It gets 6 hours use most days.
I'm debating with myself whether to take the trouble of opening it and vacuuming out the dust.

I've been debating the same thing for my 67" set. I was hoping BestBuy would offer me another extended warranty this past SUmmer at the end of four years like they do on other TVs but it didn't happen. So I'm wondering if I will start to have issues soon since my original extended warranty has expired.
post #15226 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by ovel2clock View Post

Guess I'm not out of the woods yet. After replacing the LED driver board, the TV will not show a picture after a few hours of being on. Turning off, waiting a bit, then turning back on brings the picture back. Not the input source as the TVs volume bar doesn't show up on the TV.
Any ideas?
[Edit] Took off back cover and pointed a fan directly at the back to see if it's a overheating situation. I'll post an update with my findings.

First time logging into AVS since the hurricane. Thanks for the beer offer, but you don't owe me anything. It is my pleasure to help.

What firmware version is your set running? If it's already at 1005.3 or later...then it is most likely the primary power suppy board (part #BP44-01001A).

The poly capacitors are of low quality and should be replaced. Also check to see if thermal paste was applied between the voltage regulator heat sinks. I once serviced a unit where they had neglected to apply any compound to a critical regulator.
post #15227 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by worldkaps View Post

Looking for help diagnosing my tv. It just suddenly started having this "red static". Twice after turning it off and back on, I was able to get picture to return to normal. The first time it lasted for a good month. Second was just till the next power cycle. If i enter the service menu and run the test pattern all the colors are correct and the "red static" is not there.
Also, the hdmi inputs seem to no longer be detected. (thats why i cant show a live tv picture with the digital "red static" all over it) Not sure if this is related.

Sorry to inform you that this is most definitely the main board. I can tell that both your DMD board/DMD chip are fine by your description of the symptoms.

Main boards for these TVs are normally well over $200 now, and getting harder to find as time goes on.

Part #'s BP94-02326A or BP96-02089A (either one will work).
post #15228 of 15631
I just replaced my DMD due to white spots on the screen. That went well, but now I have been noticing my tv dimming and brightening in certain scenes where there is a mixture of bright and dark areas. It seems like a dynamic iris, but I've got dynamic contrast turned off. Any ideas? Thanks.
post #15229 of 15631
Make sure that "Black Adjust" is turned off not only within the user menu, but also in the service menu.

If the problem still persists, then it's an early indication that the LED power board is failing.
post #15230 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by KewlK View Post

Make sure that "Black Adjust" is turned off not only within the user menu, but also in the service menu.
If the problem still persists, then it's an early indication that the LED power board is failing.

User menu black adjust is off. I looked in the service menu, but I could not find it. Do you know what it is called in the service menu and under what option? Thanks.
post #15231 of 15631
Yes, look under the "SP Actuator" submenu (they engrish it as Acturator).

You want to set "DB" Off.

Edit: spelling correction
Edited by KewlK - 11/3/12 at 5:42pm
post #15232 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by KewlK View Post

Yes, look under the "SP Actuator" submenu (they engrish it as Acturator).
You want to set "DB" Off.
Edit: spelling correction

Found it. It was set to on, so I set it to off. However, I'm still seeing the dimming and brightening. Also, in the user menu I have LED control set to medium.

I hope it's not the LED power board. I'd rather not have to keep replacing components. Also, the dimming and brightening only happens when playing the show versus a paused image. And, I don't notice this all the time. I've noticed it mainly on episodes of How I Met your Mother and Two and a Half Men, and then only in certain scenes. I have noticed no problems on news channels like CNBC.

I only noticed this after replacing the DMD. It might have been there before, but I don't think so, but I have been more critical of my tv after replacing the DMD.

Anything else? Thanks again.
post #15233 of 15631
Alright, try this. Still under the "SP Actuator" submenu.

Set:
DB Gain to 0
DB Aperture to Close

Then toggle SP Gain to 1

Hopefully this will help. An added side effect of these settings is that your black level performance will be slightly improved.

It's definitely the LED power board if that flickering continues.

EDIT:

In addition I want you to change one more setting within the service menu.

Under DDP3021 change the GAMMA table setting to FILM.

This will smooth out the gamma response curve.
Edited by KewlK - 11/4/12 at 3:19pm
post #15234 of 15631
Thanks KewlK. I have implemented your changes except for the GAMMA table as it was already set to Film[0]. I've had the TV professionally calibrated, so maybe that was why it was already set that way.

I'll see how this goes. Thank you so much for your help!
post #15235 of 15631
Have read a bunch of posts but not certain of the following. I am adding a Oppo bdp 103 to my Sammy and want to know if I need anything other that the DLP-Link glasses and 3D Blu-ray disc to watch 3D. In other words do I need some other device such as an emitter.
post #15236 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnywyoming View Post

Have read a bunch of posts but not certain of the following. I am adding a Oppo bdp 103 to my Sammy and want to know if I need anything other that the DLP-Link glasses and 3D Blu-ray disc to watch 3D. In other words do I need some other device such as an emitter.

Sorry for the bad news, but the Oppo 103 does not output 3D in checkerboard format, which is the only format supported by these older sets. You will need to get a Mitsubishi 3D adapter in order to convert the 3D signal to checkerboard. They are so rare and expensive that you are better off with another blu-ray player that supports checkerboard format like the Panasonic BDT300:
http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-DMP-BDT300-Blu-ray-Disc%C2%99-Player/dp/B003GCS69G

If it was checkerboard then all you would need are DLP Link glasses. The emitter is only needed if you get IR glasses, which on these sets I wouldn't recommend.
post #15237 of 15631
Need some expert direction with my Sansung HL61A750 LED DLP. Returned from vacation, turned on TV and RED is no longer working.
Everything else functions fine. I checked color adjustments, reset to picture to default settings, no change. Because this is an LED light engine tv is it safe to say it needs a new light engine to fix the RED. I assume all colors are integrated within the light engine. Is my assumption correct in replacing the light engine to repair? Any direction would be much appreciated.
post #15238 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by MLEO View Post

Need some expert direction with my Sansung HL61A750 LED DLP. Returned from vacation, turned on TV and RED is no longer working.... Because this is an LED light engine tv is it safe to say it needs a new light engine to fix the RED. I assume all colors are integrated within the light engine. Is my assumption correct in replacing the light engine to repair?
Nope, not correct. The LEDs are individually replaceable. For $111 (currently) , a new red LED can be yours.
http://www.samsungparts.com/PartsList.aspx?Catalog=Parts_and_Accessories&PartSearch=BP07-00029A
The info to do the replacement has been posted in this thread, and you can download the service manual if you're serious about DIY.

Of course, it may be a problem with the LED power supply and not the LED. You can buy replacements for that too (I don't have a link handy, do a forum search).
post #15239 of 15631
People have mentioned that you can test the led by taking it out and touching a 9volt battery to it. Don't know the specifics, but it is discussed a lot in the thread for the HLT-6187s thread. The sets are basically the same, so I'm sure it will work on this set's red LED as well.
post #15240 of 15631
Where can I find the individual color adjustments on this set for calibration purposes? Are they in the service menu?
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