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2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 509

post #15241 of 15626
Ok, so I recently replaced the LED driver board to fix a "sound, no picture" issue. Following KewlK's instructions we were able to figure out the culprit. however the picture turns off while watching after a few hours now. Turning off and back on again and the picture comes back then it's off again. It runs the longest from a cold boot (perhaps an hour or two) and shorter during a warm reboot (15 minutes) I'm thinking that it's a heat issue as I can fix if I stick a big fan blowing into the TV towards the LED driver board.

I tested the voltage when the picture went out and all looks good out from the Sub power supply. So my question is, did I get a bum board or is there something else going on? I cleaned out the TV/fans as best as I could.

Update: Ok, so I just saw what happens before it turns off . It seems to step down in brightness in 3 second increments until the picture goes away completely. Sound is unaffected. I left the TV while I was updating my post and the TV rebooted itself after about 1 minute and picture returned. Is this thing haunted?
Edited by ovel2clock - 11/10/12 at 7:52pm
post #15242 of 15626
Hey guys, looks like I'm in the same boat. Against my wife's advice, I dragged the TV to Malaysia of all places. Worked quite well for a few months on a voltage stabilizer and converter. Until about two months ago I turned it on, the 3 lights began flashing, it would cycle and chime.

I figured, hey no sweat. I called up Samsung, they sent a local technician who was like... WTF is this thing. Apparently, these have never been sold in Malaysia at all. eek.gif So he takes it back to his shop, takes about a week of back and forth with Samsung, and finally says "please check the part BP91-02113A as the lamp black & ballast was inside it." It seems that that's the LED engine, which I can't seem to find on ebay. Anyone have any advice on where I can get this part (new or used), and if I also need a power board or not....

The part seems to be out of stock everywhere, except a few places that sell it for $900+ which is crazy expensive for me. Anyone know if I should attempt to get the part repaired with these guys: http://lcd-tvparts.com/toppage122.htm or if repairing is a good idea?

-kogs
Edited by koguma - 11/19/12 at 3:38am
post #15243 of 15626
Hi, bought my TV exactly 4 yrs. ago and today i have my first problem. Seems when it is plugged in it makes the on/off sound every few minutes and the LED light blinks. Anyone know what this could mean?
post #15244 of 15626
Quote:
Originally Posted by mayhem69 View Post

Hi, bought my TV exactly 4 yrs. ago and today i have my first problem. Seems when it is plugged in it makes the on/off sound every few minutes and the LED light blinks. Anyone know what this could mean?

I forgot to mention i have no picture at all or sound. I do have the on/off sound every few minutes when plugged in, no picture, LED light blinks.
post #15245 of 15626
Quote:
Originally Posted by domingos38 View Post

u need a new power supply
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190698180033?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

I've read you state people need a new power supply a few times now. Couldnt it need a sub power supply instead?
Like this,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_McMzxd95eU
post #15246 of 15626
Quote:
Originally Posted by mayhem69 View Post

I've read you state people need a new power supply a few times now. Couldnt it need a sub power supply instead?
Like this,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_McMzxd95eU


Yes it can be the sub power supply thats bad
post #15247 of 15626
It looks like the Blue LED in my HL61750 just went out. I'm going to order the new part but I'm concerned because now everything also has a "Yellow" Tint to it as well. Can someone tell me if this is normal when the Blue LED goes out or do I have a bigger issue?

When I checked the service menu the set is showing the following Errors. "0 IIC ERROR !! 0x9c MST3560 :Read" and "1 IIC ERROR !! 0x9c MST3560 :Read" any help would be appreciated
post #15248 of 15626
I have an issue with mine that I cannot an answer to anywhere online or this thread.

The TV has a soft white thick halo glow around the outside of the picture. It's visible at all times but really shows up with a black background. It doesn't seem to distort the picture. More like light pollution.

I have cleaned the lens, the mirror and the inside of the screen. I removed the light engine and blew it out today. Zero change in symptoms. So is it dust inside the lens or further back in the optical path? How do I clean this up?

A few days ago I also developed a stuck mirror you can easily see in the photo below. mad.gif If I replace the DLP chip will that give me a chance to get into the rest of the optical path to get rid of the ring?

IIEYK.jpg
post #15249 of 15626
I'm sorry to say that you need a new light engine. Replacing the DMD alone will not solve this light leakage problem. I bet that the light sink (which functions to absorb all unwanted stray light) has either fallen out of alignment or has otherwise somehow failed. There is no easy fix for this unfortunately.
post #15250 of 15626
I was afraid of that. Well thanks for keeping me from dropping money on a new DMD.
post #15251 of 15626
Quote:
Originally Posted by KewlK View Post

I'm sorry to say that you need a new light engine. Replacing the DMD alone will not solve this light leakage problem. I bet that the light sink (which functions to absorb all unwanted stray light) has either fallen out of alignment or has otherwise somehow failed. There is no easy fix for this unfortunately.

There are some inexpensive light engines available on the web for under $100. If he replaces that will he still need to replace the DMD board as well? Are there two separate part issues here or just one? Does the light engine need to be replaced to fix the halo issue and the DMD board for the stuck pixels?
post #15252 of 15626
Got a link for that nickels55?
post #15253 of 15626
I think I see what he is talking about. Is it part number BP96-02036A?

That looks like just the optics block. Anyone have any experience replacing one of those? I wonder if the light sink is part of that.

I could see spending $200 to get this TV back up and running. So $100 for a light engine and $100 for the DMD? Is that reasonable pricing?

Right now it's just one stuck mirror, so I may wait on the DMD anyway.
post #15254 of 15626
NEED HELP !!

It looks like the Blue LED in my HL61750 just went out. I'm going to order the new part but I'm concerned because now everything also has a "Yellow" Tint to it as well. Can someone tell me if this is normal when the Blue LED goes out or do I have a bigger issue?

When I checked the service menu the set is showing the following Errors. "0 IIC ERROR !! 0x9c MST3560 :Read" and "1 IIC ERROR !! 0x9c MST3560 :Read" any help would be appreciated
post #15255 of 15626
Quote:
Originally Posted by drewman View Post

I think I see what he is talking about. Is it part number BP96-02036A?
That looks like just the optics block. Anyone have any experience replacing one of those? I wonder if the light sink is part of that.
I could see spending $200 to get this TV back up and running. So $100 for a light engine and $100 for the DMD? Is that reasonable pricing?
Right now it's just one stuck mirror, so I may wait on the DMD anyway.

That part on eBay was just the lens part of the optic block.

I think I'm just going to go buy a new TV and be done with it.

I'll sell this one for cheap on Craigslist to someone with full disclosure.
post #15256 of 15626
You'll probably get the same amount of money for your 3DA-1 adapter as you will for the set. At least you have that going for you! I love my older model 6187s, and would probably get another one on Craigslist if possible. I still see used ones around $500 on there all the time.
post #15257 of 15626
ok, just got the call from the tech. who by the way is the only one around anymore, they are going belly up i guess from not much work.
anyway he states it is the voltage circuit doubler, never heard of that mentioned with my symptoms. the bill is $315, hope that is not considered robbery!
post #15258 of 15626
My Samsung doesn't have red and i replaced the LED but it still isn't showing red. Everything else seems to be fine. What can I measure and where to determine what might be causing the red to fail? Thanks for the help, I appreciate it.

Torin
post #15259 of 15626
Actually did some multimeter readings on the SUB-SMPS connector and found two wires on the connector with gray and black wires that have no readings but the other wires have 16V. Does this mean it is time for a new SUB-SMPS board or are there certain caps to check out that might fix it?

EDIT: The above readings should be correct as I found that two are ground and won't get any readings at all. So, the SUB-SMPS seems to be fine.

However, when i meter the LED output from the LED lamp driver board, I'm getting 16V on the blue and green and 8V on the red. I think this means that I need a new LED lamp driver board. Can anyone confirm?

I also get 2V on the LED's themselves except the red (which is new) at the connectors. This also would indicate the LED lamp driver board, correct?
Edited by toberlindacher - 11/30/12 at 12:20pm
post #15260 of 15626
Yes, you need a new LED driver board. Should be able to find one for less than $100.
post #15261 of 15626
Quote:
Originally Posted by drewman View Post

That part on eBay was just the lens part of the optic block.
I think I'm just going to go buy a new TV and be done with it.
I'll sell this one for cheap on Craigslist to someone with full disclosure.

Yeah, sorry replacement *complete* optical blocks are difficult to find for less than a grand.
post #15262 of 15626
Thanks for the help. Placed an order over the weekend for 68.00 shipped.
post #15263 of 15626
I turned on my set this morning and 'had' a picture, but no sound. The sound bar was displayed on the left side of the screen stuck at 0. Nothing I could do would turn up the volume. I tried another input and couldn't get it to come on at all. Next i inadvertantly hit the 'up channel' button on the tv. With no OTA it just went to static.

I had just charged my harmony last night, so i thought may something went wrong. I pulled out the TV's remote and same thing. Worse still, i can't change sources with it or get into the main menu. I then went to the tv itself. It's power button doesn't work, and the only buttons on the side of the set that work are the channel up/down.

How screwed am i?
post #15264 of 15626
pull the plug... :-) and cross your fingers after about 15 minute, repower, and pray.
post #15265 of 15626
Turns out this is a known issue - at least to our local shop.

Apparently, what happens is that one of the buttons on the side of the set goes out and thinks it's in the permanent pushed position. It's basically sending a nonstop signal of volume down. Therefore the volume bar stays on the screen stuck at zero. With the constant push, no other signal can get through (except for channel up/down for some reason) which results in no volume and no functionality.

Cheap solution is to unplug the button panel inside the set so the buttons on the set become useless. That's fine by me - i've never used them in the five years i've had the set. They could have replaced the button, but they'd have had to order it and install it which would incur a much larger cost than the 10 minutes it took them to unplug the button board itself.

He said he's seen the same error on other samsungs - and other brands as well. Googling it didn't turn up anything, but I was trying in regards to my 61a750, maybe a broader search would have done better...
post #15266 of 15626
Funny you mention that problem. I thought my TV was kaput one day when I relized something was leaning up against those buttons. Good scare, but also good to know.
post #15267 of 15626
Mine will not show a picture or stay on. IT powers on, blue light around power button comes on, and the green light on very right blinks for about 30-45 seconds. Then all 3 lights on front blink ONCE and the unit powers off and restarts itself including the power on chime noise. Any idea if this is power supply or something different?
post #15268 of 15626
Ok, so I have some interesting and frustrating developments. I went ahead and ordered a new LED driver board because the red is not working on my set. I have also replaced the red LED chip.

Well, the red still isn't working. I can get the red to work if I unplug the green and blue LED cables and start up the TV with just the red connected. When either the green or blue or both green and blue are plugged in, the red doesn't fire. Any combination of two LED's work. It just never works when there are three connected. I've swapped connectors and so the wiring isn't the issue. Something is drawing the voltage down or something. . Does this sound like a power supply issue? When I take voltages at the grey and black cable coming from the power supply, I get 16vdc for each of the three gray cables going to the LED driver board. I also get 16vdc at each of the LED plug in's at the Driver board. I'm also leaning towards DMD board but not sure how to test that board.

Any help here is much appreciated. I feel like I'm getting closer but am hoping it's not a major board that is not working. If it is the power supply, would it be the one that is driving the LED board or the one on the other side? Could this be a weak capacitor? Any ideas?
Edited by toberlindacher - 12/13/12 at 5:15pm
post #15269 of 15626
I have a slight issue starting. For the first time in 6 years of perfect service, when switching scenes on TV shows (usually between commercials and not during the actual show) the screen will show a red tint for a second or a green tent for a second and then it is fine. I'm just wondering what this is indicative of?

Thanks!!
post #15270 of 15626
Quote:
Originally Posted by wjcjac2000 View Post

I have a slight issue starting. For the first time in 6 years of perfect service...
I don't think these sets were around 6 years ago.
Quote:
... the screen will show a red tint for a second or a green tent for a second and then it is fine ...
I have seen a momentary yellow tint on switching to an input with a long (25') HDMI cable. I assumed it is a HDMI syncing problem. Have you changed the cabling on that source lately?
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