2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 510

My blue LED is not working. Is there anything I should check before ordering and replacing the LED?

The only thing I can think to do is open up the set and test that the blue led is actually dead using a 9 volt battery. I have personally never done this but I have read on these forums that is how to test if a LED is working.

It's been quite a long time since I've visited this thread. I've had no issues with this TV since purchasing it in 08. Now, occasionally while changing channels it sometimes flashes blue/green for 1/2 a second before arriving at the channel. Is this a TV issue or the satellite receiver? I've tried another HDMI inputs with the same result. The picture is still super as always. I just want to know if it's the "beginning of the end". Or.... maybe I don't = : )

I have not changed anything as far as the HDMI cable but it does happen with my two HDMI inputs I use. (6 years was an estimate ... could be a little less).

Thanks

I'm new here... I hope this is the right place to look for help. Just this week, my January 2009 HL67A750A1FXZA has decided not to start. I push "power" and the green STAND-BY light on the lower right pulses 15 times, then the cooling fans run for a moment and stop. It does this twice more, then all three lights blink. Here's what the manual says about that:

(it sez: "If turning the LED on fails, the set automatically tries turning the LED ASSY on 3 times. If all attempts fail, all LED's on the front panel will blink. Check the LED ASSY, LED Driver and the Subpower or SMPS and replace them if necessary").

I've gone through most of the troubleshooting flowchart in the service manual (page 34/4-2); and everything so far has checked out OK. I'm at the last "diamond" at the bottom of the chart, where I have to solder a wire on R9010 to operate the driver in internal mode to see if the author thinks I need a new Driver or DMD. I really don't want to risk damaging the board with a soldering iron, and I'm a little skeptical of the flowchart, since it doesn't mention anything about testing the LEDs (which I've read about in several forum posts).

In addition to the flowchart items, I've also measured voltage on the LEDs, both from the colored supply wire to ground (on an RCA jack), and across the LED (colored wire to white wire). Here's a pic (ignore the circle, it's the wires there that I'm talking about):

Where I measured:
Blue: 15.8 to ground, 0.10 across LED
Green: 13.6 to ground, 2.3 across LED
Red: 16.0 to ground, 0.01 across LED

I tried to start-up with each of the three LEDs unplugged, and with both the blue & red unplugged. Nothing changed.

I've read posts at justanswers.com saying that anything other than 2-4 volts across an LED indicates a dead LED. I also read there that dead LEDs will not respond to a 9 volt battery. I held a 9 volt battery to each LED, and each one lit up.

Any thoughts would be appreciated!

not an "expert" but was interested in your post... thanks for the link to the service manual. Anyways, what you have read (me too), is that led's have "normal voltage" drops across them much like diodes. IF those drops are not there, odds are high that the semiconductor is not "fully operational". I didn't read thru the full manual but have seen elsewhere that ~2v is "nominal" for most colors while blue based leds is higher... ~4. But without actually knowing the specific led used (ie. product code), you probably have to use that as a just a "guide". I would say that your good testing appears to indicate a failure on the red and maybe the blue.... kind of strange that both would go at the same time. Related to your testing, I don't believe that just because the led's light, means that they are good. The system that is "monitoring" is more likely monitoring current not light output and probably determines that the current range is outside its operating range. Having said that, if indeed that a led is "blown" (ie. totally dead), then the "read statement" (no response to a 9v battery) is true... the corrolary is not in this case.... ie. a "failing" led can produce light but is not with in spec and therefore is just as bad as a "dead" led.

There are others on here and in the 61 in thread that have had success replacing LEDs which seems like a good step and relatively cheap as opposed to full board replacement.... although note that one poster a few posts back has done both a board and led replacement and still has issues .... so there is a risk. I guess it depends on your skill level, but "gambit" would be a led replacement first then go from there. One other thing... if I read the other poster correctly, they are able to unplug leds (one, two or three) and get things kind of operational where you don't seem to be able to do this which might mean a deeper problem.

Not sure if it helps... just my thoughts. Hope you are ultimately successful and post your ultimate "good fortune".


Looked a bit more at the service manual, the voltage coming off the driver board is supposed to be ~16v on all leds but your measurement appears to indicate a "low" reading for the green led.... maybe your driver board is broke.... ?
Edited by budwich - 12/28/12 at 9:33am

Yes, I've attached the Darblet to my Sammy just a couple of weeks ago. It looks great! Turning it on and off to pick up the detail changes in BD movies! A bit pricey for such a small device, but cheaper than a full blown lumagen!

not sure about the specific on this board, but have seen elsewhere (receivers), where lots of people have had success just changing out the hdmi interface chip on non-working port(s)... its was very cheap and in the case of a receiver, save it from the garbage due to the lower overall cost of the unit making most service center repairs uneconomical. Glad you got yours going again.

Hi,

I got the Xpand x102 glasses and we are noticing very reddish-blacks and static rainbows on both sides of the TV when 3D is in use. Dynamic mode seems to eliminate them somewhat, but they're still present. The two movies we watched were Lion King 3D and Under The Sea 3D. Any suggestions on how to fix this?

Thanks

Thanks for the reply Budwich. I agree, it doesn't seem right that two LEDs would fail at the same time. I got the wire soldered on to ground R9010, as suggested by the flowchart:



The 13.6 volt to the green LED that I mentioned in the previous post seems to indicate a bad driver, so I was hoping the R9010 test would point in the same direction. No such luck! When I push the power button, I now get light from the LEDs (not sure which ones) momentarily, each time it attempts to run; they had previously remained dark.

So I guess that in spite of the:
* odd low voltage on the green LED wire
* odd 0.1 volt drop across the red LED
* odd 0.01 volt drop across the blue LED
I'm in the market for a new DMD board.

I'm having a hard time getting excited about this being a cure.

Any thoughts would be appreciated!
Edited by mnwaterbug - 12/30/12 at 8:12pm

Duplicate post. Deleted.
Edited by mnwaterbug - 12/30/12 at 8:10pm

Duplicate post. Deleted.

U

Update.

All was fine after the tech unplugged the button board on 12/8. However, today while I was watching my game the volume bar popped up again and zipped right back to zero. Same problem, but this time it can't be a button causing the issue.

My last two tv's were bought mid 90's - Sony carts neither have ever had an issue pushing twenty years old, meanwhile a 2008 model is on its third issue. Way to build quality here.

I've had no issues with my A750 yet. It's 4.5 years old now. But I also don't use the TV speakers except for the tone it makes when turning it on and off. I just replaced it with a larger Mitsubishi DLP so my A750 will go to the bedroom.

I'd just ditch the on board sound myself and use my surround system all the time, except for the fact that with this issue the volume bar is permanently stuck on the screen. There's no way to get rid of it. I can't even go into setup and see if there's a way to disable it because the volume down setting is apparently 'stuck' in the down position which kills the volume (obviously) and blocks any attempt at clicking any other button.

Wasn't thrilled with samsungs customer support on my first issue either. My first issue, having an LED go out, happened the first month out of warranty and all samsung would say to me is, basically, sucks to be you. Wouldn't lift a damned finger. I do realize it is their right, but there was zero compassion or empathy considering it happened less than 4 weeks out of warranty (i believe it was the 1.5 week mark). Not even a 'we're sorry, but there's nothing we can do' - just a cold, detached 'your warranty has expired'. That was 2010 and it still pisses me off

At this point, i imagine they've got to replace a board. I just hope it isn't too expensive. I'm thinking 500 is my tipping point to simply get another TV.

It might be time for you to jump on another DLP before they run out instead of spending $500 to fix the LED DLP set. The 82" Mitusbishi DLP set I recently got was an excellent replacement for my 67" Sammy LED DLP. And the Mitsubishi was only $1600 delivered. Although I still need to get an extended warranty. Although I have never used the extended warranty on any of my 1080P DLP sets I've had since 2005. Two Samsung and one Toshiba.

I'm thinking plasma this time. My current setup has a max of 65-67

I have a problem I'm hoping some of you might be able to help with. I've consulted this thread several times in the past, but this is the first time I've needed to post.

I have had a this TV for several years now and I have never had a problem. After being away from home for about two weeks, I turned on the TV as usual. About four to six hours later, the TV stopped responding to either remote, the cable company-supplied universal along with the factory TV remote. The indicator light on the front of the TV lights when I press any button on the remote, the TV simply doesn't respond after that, like changing the volume. Just the indicator light.

After some tinkering, I discovered that the remotes work from about a foot or two in front of the TV (not all that remote, nor convenient). Batteries have been changed, so no problem there. I've made sure the TV is clean, so it's not like there's some dust in the way.

My question is, has this happened to anyone else? Is there a known solution? Is it a repair that needs to be made, or something simpler? Your help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks...

Is there another remote in the room with a stuck button flooding the room with IR signals? I've had this happen to me in the past. And the issue ended up being one of my remotes had a button stuck down that was flooding the room with IR. although in that situation I also had issues with several devices that used IR for remote control. It wasn't just one device.

Ok, so I replaced the LED driver board recently to fix a no picture problem on my TV. Now after a random amount of time, it (seems to me) like the red LED goes out. Once that happens, the picture steps down in brightness until it goes completely black. Turning it off and back on again restores the picture.

Any ideas? Bad LED driver board? Bad red LED?

@aaronwt

Thanks for the suggestion. I checked a few other remotes in the room. While none of them appeared to have a button pressed, after fiddling with them, the TV remotes are working fine. Turns out it was nothing wrong with the TV, thankfully.

Thanks for your help.

Reposting -

Hi,

I got the Xpand x102 glasses and we are noticing very reddish-blacks and static rainbows on both sides of the TV when 3D is in use. Dynamic mode seems to eliminate them somewhat, but they're still present. The two movies we watched were Lion King 3D and Under The Sea 3D. Any suggestions on how to fix this?

Thanks

hey all!

i bought the 61" version of this tv for my mom on a deal in 2009 by the suggestion of this board and i thought the set was phenominal with Lee Bailey's settings, and all the information on here has helped me to maintain it and keep it going without problems for her. you guys ROCK.

ive been keeping my eye out for a 67" one in my area and lucked out last night on craigslist for myself, or so i thought

tv works fine... or so it seems, i got it back and cleaned out its innards, dont know how high up its supposed to go but its placed on top of a makeshift stand about 2.5' up

3 problems.

1. is it too high up? i notice significant shift in luminance when my height changes from standing to sitting (top goes darker). while standing the top of the set is at about 5' 7". while sitting my head is around 2.5-3 feet. also whats the optimal distance to watch this thing at? i just might be too close

2. when the tv is searching for inputs at the top i can see kind of whats like a ghosting affect on the white lettering on black background, it looks like light bleed, dont know if thats normal or not

3. BIGGEST PROBLEM. i have my ps3 connected to my av receiver connected to my tv all by hdmi. my old panasonic plasma was a part of this original configuration.

when the tv is off, the receiver gets all the information, (marantz 5002) blue hdmi light is on, sound there, everything seems fine. turn the tv on, the hdmi cuts out, no blue light, seems like a handshake failed somewhere. whenever i turn on the tv or have it on the input with data coming through the hdmi drops, no sound no video.

turn the tv off, hdmi syncs up again, no problems.


using Lee Bailey's settings on this tv as well, dont really know what to use to make sure its accurate, as i hear that its hit or miss with the 67 over the 61 for his settings.

Just came back to this thread and saw users talking about Lee's settings. Decided to take the plunge. I must say I think it definitely made improvements. I can notice better black performance. Colors I don't know. I don't have an eye for that. Seems to help with gaming and identifying targets at distance. Looks like the last time the numbers were updated was '09. Are there newer numbers for the 1005.3 firmware?

1.Too high up? The center of the screen should be at your eye level in your seated viewing position. Normal for shifts when above or below the 'sweet spot' on RPTVs.

2. Does not sound normal, but if it does not continue after you lock into an input, then I would not worry about it.

3. Is the issue only with the PS3? Have you tried all three HDMI ports?

My settings were not set for the 67" TV. There are a set of values in that thread that another user has provided that seem to work well on the 67".

Check the firmware version of your 67" tv. If it is not at at least 1005.3, then download that firmware from the Samsung site, and follow the docs to apply it. Worst case is, you may have to replace the input board, or main board. If you have some component cables, see if those work.

What happens if you directly connect the PS3 to the TV?

thanks for the reply Lee!

i have tried it with all the ports, none of them resolve the issue.

when the ps3 is connected directly to the tv, in any of the ports it works fine. my current solution isnt that great, but its simply sending out optical out from the ps3 to my receiver, and yes, the tv is updated to the firmware thats listed on the samsung website.

your settings seem to work fine, but i wouldnt mind getting better on the 67, ill dig around that thread in a bit, thanks a lot!


talked to samsung about it, i think their tech support is largely useless, but not that i blame them as they simply go off a flow chart without really knowing anything about the tech theyre supporting

marantz has offered me a firmware update, that they have to apply with a hardware tweak apparently, so ill see if that works, if that doesnt, i have no idea what i would do really


also, having the 5.3 firmware rather than the 7.4, should i even use varus' settings? it says for the 7.4 only. i dont know of any real way to update it to that firmware since the file isnt on the samsung website
Edited by ureshiidesuka - 1/7/13 at 5:31pm

Hi. I've been having an issue with my hl67a750 lately that I can use some advice with. The picture suddenly went out on the set while watching a movie. Full audio but no picture. I tried restarting the set and I get the following behavior:
1. The front panel "LED" light slowly blinks 4-20 times.
2. The power up chime sounds
3. I hear a relay click
4. All three front panel lights flash
5. The set reboots and we go through the same cycle again.

I never get even a flash of a picture during all of this. I've been through the service manual's troubleshooting flowchart and am to the point I need to solder the ground wire to the led driver board and am nervous about doing so. I suppose I'm looking at a new DMD board, possibly an LED driver board, but was hoping someone might have some thoughts before I go much further. I'm really trying to minimize costs and would like to be certain before I spend a couple hundred bucks on this. Thanks in advance for any insight!

FWIW, I've seen the random VERY intermittent (as in, might occur once while watching a 2 hour movie, if at all) screen turning reddish briefly for years. For me, it's in the middle of a scene. I've seen it happen via s-video (watching a DVD) and component in (from my TiVo).

OTOH, I'm not sure if it's reproducible if "rewind" back a bit and replay that segment.

Well, if the blacks are reddish then the glasses stink. The blacks should be black, most DLP Link glasses filter the red tint. I see red tinted blacks only when using IR glasses, never with DLP Link glasses. Try the ones from ultimate3dheaven - they are cheap and blacks are black.

http://www.ultimate3dheaven.com/uldlpliwi3dg.html

As for the static rainbows - I have a fix for that in this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1316347/one-way-to-minimize-dlp-link-rainbows

If you find glasses that give black blacks and no rainbows I'd love to know what they are!