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2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 511

post #15301 of 15408
1/18/13 at 11:58pm
I recently had issues with 3d until I realized that at one point while fiddling with the TV in 3d mode that I renamed the HDMI 3 input to Bluray from PC. Noticed my 3d had gone to crap with issues similar to yours right as I was trying out my new 3d Bluray player. I thought the player was bad until I remembered that on this TV, you have to have the HDMI 3 input named "PC" in order for the 3d to work properly. Once I changed it back the picture was great again. Give it a try and make sure your HDMI 3 is named PC.
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post #15302 of 15408
1/19/13 at 7:58pm
My problem seems to be getting worse. The TV now with switch red then yellow (or vice versa) then normal until a scene change and it happens again. Not sure what part of the LED system is going out but it happens across inputs with different cables. Any suggestions would be helpful as I love this TV.
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post #15303 of 15408
1/20/13 at 5:03am
Quote:
Originally Posted by KewlK View Post

I somehow overlooked your original post. Thermaltake is known for their quality.

Glad that you're happy with it. Should help keep the more heat sensitive red LED better cooled.

Where is everyone mounting these fans?
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post #15304 of 15408
1/20/13 at 5:07am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Davidfernst View Post

I have been using the Darblett for the past month and also feel that it is like getting a brand new TV. I don't run 3d but it is amazing how much it improves the picture. My settings are 60 POP (RED) for Cox Cable and 45 HD (Green) for Blu-Ray.

I just ordered the Darblett...haven't been so excited about an external processor in a looooong time...its reasonably priced and so far has gotten great feedback from those who bought it...

Are you still happy with it?
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post #15305 of 15408
1/22/13 at 12:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bkazepis View Post

Where is everyone mounting these fans?

Although I have an older set I think the vents are in the same spot. Mine is the front left of the TV (looking at the TV, on the left side)
LL
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post #15306 of 15408
1/22/13 at 1:15pm
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1397016/samsung-3-fan-replacement

Talking about fans I guess you have all read my Post on replacement of Factory Fan. Have not been around for awhile since I have had no further issues and did not really read this whole thread anyway. If my Thread has no relevance, please disregard and Good Luck to all.
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post #15307 of 15408
1/27/13 at 3:44pm
I have the HL67A750 and have had no issues since ownership began a few years ago. About two weeks ago picture would not appear on start-up. As several other people have posted it did the single front panel green LED blink (fans running) followed by relays clicking followed by all three front panel LEDs blinking. I performed the complete diagnosis in the service manual checking the 5 & 12V logic voltages, verifying the sub-power supply voltages of ~333 VDC coming in and solid 16 VDC going out. I made the jumper and grounded R9010 and none of the LEDs would light. I also took a 9-volt battery (+ on the white terminal) and placed across each of the LEDs and they all lit up. So I ordered the LED driver board from Andrews Elect. and received it promptly. I installed it and happily the picture came back to life. I thought all was good...until last night. My wife and I were watching a movie and poof went the picture. Totally gone. Audio was still fine. Looking at the lower right corner where the LED indicators are and they were doing the single and eventual triple LED dance. Pulled the back off again today for all the tests I had performed before to show me the exact same results. So now I am wondering...Did I get a weak or refurbished board from Andrews that has now quit after two weeks? Is it possible that any of the LEDs could cause the LED driver board to fail? All LEDs light up again with a 9-volt as well today. I am not quite sure what to do next. I suppose see about getting the latest board switched out again with Andrews. Anyone have any other suggestions?

One thing I would like to ask is if anyone has ever performed an out-of-circuit diode test on each LED. I know that each LED has its own properties based on color but when I do a diode test on mine I get wildly different values.

Thanks for any help / suggestions...
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post #15308 of 15408
1/28/13 at 3:43am
I wonder if it might have anything to do with overheating. One module or other going into thermal protect shutdown; does it work at all after being off long enough to become 'cold'? I keep telling myself I should pop the rear cover of my 67A750, and open up the LED area and vacuum out years of accumulated dust from the heatsinks. Anyway, I'm just rambling, don't know any better suggestion at the moment.
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post #15309 of 15408
1/29/13 at 12:27pm
what were the voltages that your were seeing at the leds? are you saying that currently the output of the led driver board is still OK?
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post #15310 of 15408
2/2/13 at 7:44pm
Is anyone still posting service menu calibration recipes?
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post #15311 of 15408
2/5/13 at 11:30am
Not very likely. People have either finished tuning these tvs or moved along for various reasons such as the tv breaking down, not being compatible with all 3d modes, upgrades etc. Others are just enjoying it and don't visit this thread frequently as is evidenced by the thread itself. Remember it is nearly a 5 year old model and moreover, the technology was abandoned by Samsung right after this model.
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post #15312 of 15408
2/6/13 at 10:37am
Yea kinda figured. I've had my set for about 4 years now and just discovered this thread. I would like to calibrate my set, but don't to go at it alone. Would be nice to talk to someone who has done it before. Oh well, I've lived with it for this long and like it. No need to fix something that's not broke.

Overall I've been really pleased with this set. I'm not really into the 3D stuff, so see no need to get rid of it because of that. Plus the picture is really good, even compared to newer LCD, and plasmas. About 6 months ago I had a blue LED go out on me. It was a easy enough fix for me to do. That's the only problem I've had with it.

I'll say goodbye to this dead thread frown.gif
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post #15313 of 15408
2/6/13 at 11:48am
I have had excellent results following Lee Bailey's settings. Search for it in this thread and follow it if you feel confident. As long as you write down your initial values, you can always go back if you don't like the results so that you have nothing to lose. It takes about an hour and I was very happy with it.
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post #15314 of 15408
2/6/13 at 1:33pm
Yea I read a little about it in the beginning of the thread. Just kinda nervous about it, heard you can really screw things up. Seems alittle cimicated too. Was it?
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post #15315 of 15408
2/6/13 at 2:16pm
Any time you go to service menu, there is a chance you could screw things up. However, if you pay attention to what you are doing and take things slowly--I do it in the night when everyone is asleep--I think it is pretty safe. I have always played with service menus for the last 15+ years so I didn't find it intimidating. Beyond that, if you don't feel up to it, don't do it as you have a reasonably working TV that ain't broken!
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post #15316 of 15408
2/7/13 at 9:47am
No, my LED driver board is certainly kaput again. What I am talking about is performing any measurements on the individual LEDs themselves out of circuit. Here is what I have done:
1) Placed 9-volt battery with volt meter and current meter on each LED.
a. Blue LED lights up 6 Volts on voltage meter ~ 1.0 Amp on current meter.
b. Green LED lights up 5.6 Volts on voltage meter ~ 1.1 Amp on current meter.
c. Red LED lights up 4.3 Volts on voltage meter ~ 1.5 Amp on current meter.
I am guessing with the current draw my 9-volt was loosing juice quickly and thus the lower voltage with measuring the next LED.

2) Resistance measurement on each LED. Notice the difference from K Ohms to Ohms between blue and green / red.
a) Blue LED > Pos probe on white Neg on blue = 21.8K Ohms. Leads reversed > 20.4K Ohms.
b) Green LED > Pos probe on white Neg on green = 41.8 Ohms. Leads reversed > 42.0 Ohms.
c) Red LED > Pos probe on white Neg on red = 29.7 Ohms. Leads reversed > 29.8 Ohms.

3) Diode check using Fluke DVM.
a) Blue LED > Pos probe on white Neg on blue = 1.93 Leads reversed > 1.65.
b) Green LED > Pos probe on white Neg on green = 0.028 Leads reversed > 0.028.
c) Red LED > Pos probe on white Neg on red = 0.020 Leads reversed > 0.020.

What I am trying to determine is if it is possible that any of the LEDs could be failing and due to their failure be damaging the LED driver board. As stated in my earlier post I replaced the LED drive board and everything was back to normal...for about 7 days. Then the new board failed with the exact same symptoms as the original. I am to receive a replacement LED driver board from Andrews this week. I would like to be comfortable that no other component is causing its failure. Since all three LEDs light up fine I find it hard to believe they could be the cause. But I have never had one of the LEDs go bad so I don't know their characteristics. I have seen where others have installed extra fans. Would anyone suggest that I do this as a precautionary measure? I like this TV and would like to have it operational again for a long, long time.
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post #15317 of 15408
2/7/13 at 6:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeekingNirvana View Post

Yea kinda figured. I've had my set for about 4 years now and just discovered this thread. I would like to calibrate my set, but don't to go at it alone. Would be nice to talk to someone who has done it before. Oh well, I've lived with it for this long and like it. No need to fix something that's not broke.

Overall I've been really pleased with this set. I'm not really into the 3D stuff, so see no need to get rid of it because of that. Plus the picture is really good, even compared to newer LCD, and plasmas. About 6 months ago I had a blue LED go out on me. It was a easy enough fix for me to do. That's the only problem I've had with it.

I'll say goodbye to this dead thread frown.gif

I went balls deep and just did them not too long ago. Didn't write anything down. It was smooth sailing. Took about 10-15 minutes. The biggest portion of time is there are some setting that on mine went from like 300 to 250 but it only moved by .1 so it took forever to get there.

When I first turned the set back on I literally said WOW out loud. The desktop on my HTPC had never looked so good.

Recently we went to house sit and I took my PS3 with me. Hooked it up to a Samsung LCD they have. It looked like crap. I couldn't get a setting that looked decent while playing COD. This was probably what solidified the fact that my TV looks amazing.
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post #15318 of 15408
2/7/13 at 9:19pm
"Balls Deep" huh? I did that too, but not with my tv. smile.gif

So pretty easy? Did you just follow what the post at the beginning of this thread said to do? Did you have to use any patterns or anything? I'm really tempted.
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post #15319 of 15408
2/8/13 at 9:14am
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeekingNirvana View Post

"Balls Deep" huh? I did that too, but not with my tv. smile.gif

So pretty easy? Did you just follow what the post at the beginning of this thread said to do? Did you have to use any patterns or anything? I'm really tempted.

Just be careful, DO write down your settings before you change them!
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post #15320 of 15408
2/8/13 at 10:58am
I plan on writing everything down. What's the worst that can happen? Can things get jacked up even if I write everything down? I would hate to have to tell the wife " well I screwed up the tv, gotta go buy another".

Also do I just input all your numbers LEE? No test patterns or anything?
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post #15321 of 15408
2/8/13 at 5:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyCC View Post

No, my LED driver board is certainly kaput again. What I am talking about is performing any measurements on the individual LEDs themselves out of circuit. Here is what I have done:
1) Placed 9-volt battery with volt meter and current meter on each LED.
a. Blue LED lights up 6 Volts on voltage meter ~ 1.0 Amp on current meter.
b. Green LED lights up 5.6 Volts on voltage meter ~ 1.1 Amp on current meter.
c. Red LED lights up 4.3 Volts on voltage meter ~ 1.5 Amp on current meter.
I am guessing with the current draw my 9-volt was loosing juice quickly and thus the lower voltage with measuring the next LED.

2) Resistance measurement on each LED. Notice the difference from K Ohms to Ohms between blue and green / red.
a) Blue LED > Pos probe on white Neg on blue = 21.8K Ohms. Leads reversed > 20.4K Ohms.
b) Green LED > Pos probe on white Neg on green = 41.8 Ohms. Leads reversed > 42.0 Ohms.
c) Red LED > Pos probe on white Neg on red = 29.7 Ohms. Leads reversed > 29.8 Ohms.

3) Diode check using Fluke DVM.
a) Blue LED > Pos probe on white Neg on blue = 1.93 Leads reversed > 1.65.
b) Green LED > Pos probe on white Neg on green = 0.028 Leads reversed > 0.028.
c) Red LED > Pos probe on white Neg on red = 0.020 Leads reversed > 0.020.

What I am trying to determine is if it is possible that any of the LEDs could be failing and due to their failure be damaging the LED driver board. As stated in my earlier post I replaced the LED drive board and everything was back to normal...for about 7 days. Then the new board failed with the exact same symptoms as the original. I am to receive a replacement LED driver board from Andrews this week. I would like to be comfortable that no other component is causing its failure. Since all three LEDs light up fine I find it hard to believe they could be the cause. But I have never had one of the LEDs go bad so I don't know their characteristics. I have seen where others have installed extra fans. Would anyone suggest that I do this as a precautionary measure? I like this TV and would like to have it operational again for a long, long time.

Lots of data... good but I probably can't add much more. IF you search either this thread or the one for the 67, you will find some posts somewhat recent about someone having similar issues and doing similar tests / replacements... not sure where it was left (ie. fixed or not). I guess I have a few more questions, are the led measurements especially the resistance ones and the diode checks done outside the circuit (ie. component removed). IF not, I don't believe that they are totally valid because what you are likely "seeing" / measuring / checking are other parts of the circuit connected to the LED's which could be anything. LEDs/diodes have "regions" of conduction when "biased" adequately both in terms of voltage and current so a test with a simple 9v battery may be ok, it certainly won't provide its full operational output. Further in my readings (in and around the other referenced post), it can be somewhat "dangerous" to the device to "hit" it with a voltage higher than it expects to see... not saying your tests may have caused a problem, just saying that some care maybe necessary. Normally, a spec sheet on the device will tell you its characteristics, then you would build a test circuit which would provide a voltage along with some form of feed resistance to control current, etc.

Having said all this, values from the diode checks seem somewhat low (withstanding the comment about in circuit testing validity). Your earlier post about 16v output of the driver board was that currently or before what you now think is a failed board again... have you checked that output again? Not sure whether the boards can be run with others disconnected / unplugged... the other reference posting seemed to indicate a way of doing that (I guess based on the service manual). Further the colors operate differently with blue having the "higher characteristics" (ie. larger values). You might want to do the search I suggested and perhaps PM the person therein... he might be able to give you more directed help plus maybe your extra "head" might get a resolution for both of you... :-)
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post #15322 of 15408
2/11/13 at 1:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeekingNirvana View Post

I plan on writing everything down. What's the worst that can happen? Can things get jacked up even if I write everything down? I would hate to have to tell the wife " well I screwed up the tv, gotta go buy another".

Also do I just input all your numbers LEE? No test patterns or anything?

Yep, just the numbers. I already used test patterns to get those numbers!

There is nothing in there that should cause any issues.

Tripping off a factory reset by accident would be another story....

The best thing about the Calibration mode, is that you can set all your USER Settings in the service menus for it. That way, even after a power outage, you don't have to reset COLOR, TINT, etc when you choose the Calibration mode. You'll just need to set your TV's clock!
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post #15323 of 15408
2/13/13 at 7:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by KewlK View Post

Great news! The darblet is in fact fully compatible with checkerboard 3D!!!

I placed it in between the 3DC-1000 and TV. Played a quick game of Super Stardust in 3D on the PS3 and could not believe the increase in intricate details and 3D depth perception.

This visual effect is definitely not something attainable through standard edge enhancement; nor any amount of sharpness/contrast/gamma control tinkering. The darblet is something very special and it's worth every penny.

I have no glitches to report, both 2D & 3D content function flawlessly. There is one minor inconvenience though: ...If the darblet is fed by a device which emits the "always on" signal (such as the 3DC-1000), it will not power off unless unplugged. Pressing the on/off button is useless.

Anyone-

Noob question on best install; I should be getting my darbee device within the next few weeks, I currently own a Sammy HL61750 DLP; currently have running DirectTV, 3DC-1000 (3D purposes) and PS3 and xbox 360 hooked up to the Onkyo HTS device. I want to use the Darbee with all devices if possible; so where would be the best place to put darbee, in this case? Thanks!
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post #15324 of 15408
2/14/13 at 3:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by PoshFrosh View Post


Really!? I stand corrected. So when a film-based BluRay is playing and the Info box in the upper-left says "1080 @ 24" that's post-conversion? Wow. I had no idea.


I've always thought it looked so great, guess I'm just not much of a videophile. I had always thought I had a leg up over non-DLP technologies in this area, but I guess I was woefully misinformed.


Oh well, in any event, I've never noticed anything like judder, but perhaps I just don't know what judder looks like. I've read about inverse-telecine on wikipedia, but that's about all I know.


I read somewhere online that on Samsung DLPs the "Film Mode" toggles telecine on and off. Is this true? And if so, is this something he should try?
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post #15325 of 15408
2/15/13 at 2:43pm
Hello,

I had my hl61a750 since 2008. just yesterday the TV picture started changing colors on its own. sometimes its okay for a few minutes and then starts back up. sometimes the picture kind of looks like a cartoon as well. I see alot of flashes of red, green's blues ect.. its a very odd problem as again sometimes the picture can stay good for 5 minutes and then start and stop changing colors on its own. let me know what you guys think.

Thanks,
John
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post #15326 of 15408
2/15/13 at 4:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnabis View Post

Hello,

I had my hl61a750 since 2008. just yesterday the TV picture started changing colors on its own. sometimes its okay for a few minutes and then starts back up. sometimes the picture kind of looks like a cartoon as well. I see alot of flashes of red, green's blues ect.. its a very odd problem as again sometimes the picture can stay good for 5 minutes and then start and stop changing colors on its own. let me know what you guys think.

Thanks,
John

Oddly enough I think I fixed it.. shortly after I posted this I changed my LED settings from auto to High. when it was at MAX it wold fip out and do the color changing thing.. for the last hour or so I haven't had any issues at all!
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post #15327 of 15408
2/26/13 at 4:16pm
Hi John, what you have done is a temporary fix. The symptom you have described is a precursor to impending LED driver board failure. Usually it's a leaky capacitor or failing MOSFET.

I find that with an ailing LED board, you really shouldn't push it past the Medium brightness setting. Sometimes Min/Low will flicker a bit, Max/Auto color synchronization can get all messed up (as you have experienced first-hand).
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post #15328 of 15408
2/26/13 at 4:38pm
Quote:
Noob question on best install; I should be getting my darbee device within the next few weeks, I currently own a Sammy HL61750 DLP; currently have running DirectTV, 3DC-1000 (3D purposes) and PS3 and xbox 360 hooked up to the Onkyo HTS device. I want to use the Darbee with all devices if possible; so where would be the best place to put darbee, in this case? Thanks!

You'll want the Darbee to be the very last device in the HDMI chain.

Forget about the HDMI1 and HDMI2 inputs (neither is 3D capable). Install the Darblet between the 3DC-1000 and HDMI3/DVI input. Feed the Onkyo into the 3DC-1000, using the Onkyo to toggle the sat receiver and game consoles.

Hopefully you won't run into any handshaking issues. There is a workaround if that happens: inexpensive HDMI switches that resync the signal are a lifesaver.
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post #15329 of 15408
2/26/13 at 10:27pm
So I did the Lee Bailey calibration and see improvements. Not drastic but definitely better. I didn't have to adjust the levels very much so that's prob why it wasn't very drastic. Watched half of avatar, then calibrated, after the colors seemed more life like. The shadows were more detailed. Overall I'm impressed thanks Lee.
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post #15330 of 15408
2/27/13 at 6:14am
smile.gif

Great thread
Edited by 52brezelfenster - 2/27/13 at 5:57pm
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