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2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 512

post #15331 of 15397
3/2/13 at 11:05am
I just entered Lee's numbers into the SM and do see a great difference. One tweak that I cannot do is on the regular adjustments outside of the SM. I have it set to Movie (followed Lee's settings here too) although I bumped the contrast to 95. Anyway. the HDMI Black is set to Normal but it is greyed out so I cannot change it to Low. Using 1007 firmware does that have anything to do with it?

Thanks for this thread and Lee's considerable contribution. By the way Lee, what is your address, you must be getting low on Spam by now! smile.gif
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post #15332 of 15397
3/2/13 at 2:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnywyoming View Post

I have it set to Movie (followed Lee's settings here too) although I bumped the contrast to 95. Anyway. the HDMI Black is set to Normal but it is greyed out so I cannot change it to Low. Using 1007 firmware does that have anything to do with it?

Contrast at 95 is really high, are you positive that you are not getting any clipping? 75 is the usual white level sweet spot for these sets. I wouldn't recommend going past 82 or so.

Don't worry about the "HDMI Black Level" option being grayed out. Whether the TV will allow access or not is entirely source specific. For example, it will always be stuck at "Normal" while inputting via Component. Just adjust the brightness control to properly compensate. Almost always, 45 is the proper black level setting.

Finally, no, the newer firmware version has nothing to do with that particular "feature".
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post #15333 of 15397
3/2/13 at 3:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdubau55 View Post

When I first turned the set back on I literally said WOW out loud. The desktop on my HTPC had never looked so good.

Recently we went to house sit and I took my PS3 with me. Hooked it up to a Samsung LCD they have. It looked like crap. I couldn't get a setting that looked decent while playing COD. This was probably what solidified the fact that my TV looks amazing.

Yes, these are great sets. They still hold their own very well against the latest and greatest. Obviously proper calibration is essential. Remember that for a fair picture quality comparison, both TVs must be properly calibrated prior to nitpicking.

My absolute favorite gaming TV is my old KDS-R50XBR1 SXRD. No 3D, no 1080p HDMI in (1080i deinterlaced to 1080p)....but man it pops. These Samsung DLPs do come very close.
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post #15334 of 15397
3/3/13 at 7:40am
Lowered the contrast back to Lee's 90 last night but will set it to 75 and see what I think. On the grey step patterns on the DVE HD disk I am not seeing any clipping. Is there another way to check other than by sight. I have the HCFR software and plan to take new measurements to check the settings from Lee.
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post #15335 of 15397
3/3/13 at 10:37am
Good, I'm glad that you are familiar with HCFR. What sensor are you using?

Simply perform a full gray scale measurement (0->100IRE) and review the results. Whether there is any clipping at the higher IREs will be charted out for you. You want the gamma curve to hold steady at exactly 2.2 all the way from 0 to 100. Any line dipping is clipping (rhyme intended).

Instead of plugging in Lee's values, please consider walking your TV through an entire proper calibration. Yes, Lee's settings looked good my TV as well, but they were not perfect. Every same model TV is at least a little different. Decided to start from square one.

Here are my results of a calibration back in October using an i1 display2. I have since gotten even closer to perfection with subsequent attempts, but here's for your reference:



Reason for Edit: spelling
Edited by KewlK - 3/3/13 at 10:48am
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post #15336 of 15397
3/3/13 at 4:17pm
Using the same sensor you have. I was working through a complete calibration but became frustrated when I measured the colors (is the same as gamut?) and went to input them. My cd/m readings were nowhere near what the samples in Kal's guide state. I think there is some math to perform to come up with the correct settings but I can't find that anywhere.

The RGB levels are off the chart, R = 23756% for R, Green = 4431% for R. and Blue = 1028% for B.

My red was a cd/m of 1.91, ftL .559, green 4.83, ftL 1.411 and blue 43.75 and 2.769. I took the measurements off of the Samsung color test patterns, but the greyscale off of the DVE HD disk.

When it comes to inputting these figures into the Samsung SM I don't have three digit numbers to input as most are decimals and there are only a few settings that accept a decimal. So, I am missing a conversion, a step, or taking gamut measurements wrong or ? That is why I inputted Lee's figures, just to see what type of difference I would get PQ wise.
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post #15337 of 15397
3/4/13 at 6:05am
OK, no. Metering your primaries (RGB) is not the same as "gamut". Gamut refers to the chosen color space to work within (sRGB/Normal/Wide). Don't even bother with Normal.

Here is a link to an excellent tutorial explaining exactly what calibration is and how to do it. :

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457

Read it section by section until you fully understand the terminology and procedure.

Then, Lee's step by step calibration guide will make complete sense.
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post #15338 of 15397
3/4/13 at 6:20am
Yes, I use that already but I will go through it step by step again as there is something I'm missing and once I figure that out I'm certain the light will come on in my head! smile.gif
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post #15339 of 15397
3/4/13 at 11:49am
When Kal is describing adjustments to the RGBHighEnd and RGBLowEnd controls does that mean the Color and Tint controls on the Samsung or ?
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post #15340 of 15397
3/5/13 at 6:15am
Anyone??
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post #15341 of 15397
3/5/13 at 12:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnywyoming View Post

When Kal is describing adjustments to the RGBHighEnd and RGBLowEnd controls does that mean the Color and Tint controls on the Samsung or ?

Those terms are neither referring to color nor tint.

RGBLowEnd = Bias/Cuts/Offsets (Controls the grayscale color balance and gamma curve from 0 IRE to 50 IRE...which is black to medium gray)

RGBHighEnd = Gain or Drives (Controls the grayscale color balance and gamma curve from 50 IRE to 100 IRE...which is medium gray to pure white)

In order to conform with the D65 standard, you want an equal mix of each primary color: R=100%/G=100%/B=100% within your grayscale tracking; all the way from black to white.

The location for tinkering with the grayscale is located within the WB Menu.
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post #15342 of 15397
3/5/13 at 3:22pm
Thanks KewlK, that clears up a lot. One last question.



In step a. of Lee's calibration guide he says:

a. Go to the DDP3021 menu, cursor down to the test pattern selection. Cursor right and you should have a full screen of RED. You should bring up your Gamut measures, and take a measurement for RED. Cursor right again, and I believe the screen will turn GREEN. Take a measurement. Cursor right again, and measure what should be a BLUE screen. (Note: all your measurements need to be in cd/m2, NO ftL)

Is that the same as measuring the primaries?
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post #15343 of 15397
3/5/13 at 4:08pm
Yes, very good. Now you're getting it.

My advice to you, though, is to skip that entire step.

I have calibrated this set over a dozen times and assure you that the end result will be identical...whether you plug in new primary values or not. Just leave them at default and you'll be fine. The CCA system is a marvelous thing.

Concentrate most of all about getting the grayscale tuned under sRGB. Then target the proper values for the primaries and finally the secondaries.

Some added advice: I recall that the luminescence controls for the primaries are useless. This leads to an issue where red push is impossible to tame without sacrificing some saturation for all the other colors. It's best to live with a little red push vs sapping the life out of your colors.

It has been my experience that yellow is the most difficult color to dial in. Don't get frustrated as it will eventually "stick".
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post #15344 of 15397
3/5/13 at 4:12pm
Fantastic, Thanks so much for taking the time to give answers to an old man smile.gif
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post #15345 of 15397
3/6/13 at 12:19pm
You're welcome it's my pleasure.

And hey...time permitting, all of us eventually get old. What is most important is to remain young at heart. wink.gif
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post #15346 of 15397
3/9/13 at 10:09am

Bulb vs LED question

I'm thinking of going bigger - picked up two fixable HLT5676 (bulb/wheel) sets in the last year.  Gave one to my sister, have another for myself.   A relative is willing to buy my 5676 for what I have into it (about $200).  Thinking of a HLxxA750 61" or 67", though used prices are a bit more than the 56" I will appreciate the bigger size (such as this very instant using as a computer display).   My real concern is in color rendition.  It would seem that the 5-color processing (RGBCY) of the bulb/wheel design would be inherently superior to the 3-color processing (RGB) of the LED based sets.  I haven't seen a direct comparison of the differing technologies in this regard.  I really appreciate the ability of the 5676 to display differing fine hues that most other sets (RGB based LCD/Plasmas) tend to display more as a primary "blind" color.   Can anyone point me to a test result where this aspect was specifically investigated between the bulb and LED based Samsung DLPs?

 

I suppose a second concern would be screen brightness, I like it bright.  The xx76 models well exceed 500 CD/M2.  I have mine adjusted (dynamic off, black adjust off) with with gamma setting changed and contrast set to 90.  The lumen output of the bulb in the 5676 is 6500 vs 3000 of the LED based sets.   Browsing retail stores everything they sell (LCD/Plasmas) looks dark, dismal, and depressing to me (except mabe the new samsung 8000 series which @ $2500.%! aint happening).  Do the newer A750 DLPs achieve the same max screen brightness as the xx76 bulb sets?


Edited by mrbrian200 - 3/9/13 at 10:49am
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post #15347 of 15397
3/15/13 at 4:14am
say guys 67a750 owner here, is there a service manual floating around for this model ??

thanks much.
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post #15348 of 15397
3/15/13 at 5:41am
Here ya go, PDF version, http://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/HL67A750A1FXZA
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post #15349 of 15397
3/15/13 at 5:47am
oops, sorry you asked for the service manual... PM me with your e-mail and I will send it to you as a PDF attachment.
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post #15350 of 15397
3/18/13 at 12:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by koguma View Post

Hey guys, looks like I'm in the same boat. Against my wife's advice, I dragged the TV to Malaysia of all places. Worked quite well for a few months on a voltage stabilizer and converter. Until about two months ago I turned it on, the 3 lights began flashing, it would cycle and chime.

I figured, hey no sweat. I called up Samsung, they sent a local technician who was like... WTF is this thing. Apparently, these have never been sold in Malaysia at all. eek.gif So he takes it back to his shop, takes about a week of back and forth with Samsung, and finally says "please check the part BP91-02113A as the lamp black & ballast was inside it." It seems that that's the LED engine, which I can't seem to find on ebay. Anyone have any advice on where I can get this part (new or used), and if I also need a power board or not....

The part seems to be out of stock everywhere, except a few places that sell it for $900+ which is crazy expensive for me. Anyone know if I should attempt to get the part repaired with these guys: http://lcd-tvparts.com/toppage122.htm or if repairing is a good idea?

-kogs


Hey guys, I finally received a used DLP engine (part # BP91-02113A) from an eBay seller. Sent it off with the TV to a Samsung repair guy. Note that he's never worked with a DLP before, but I sent him a service manual via email. So he calls me up today and says that, well, he got the board in and it's working, but there's a 'slight' problem. The slight problem seems to be that the screen is shifted about 1 inch to the left, past the border of the screen. He says they tried everything, but they just can't center the picture.

I've looked through the threads here and I can't find of anyone having a similar issue. Is this something that can be fixed? Here's a picture the repair guy sent me:



Thanks!
Edited by koguma - 3/18/13 at 1:27am
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post #15351 of 15397
3/18/13 at 8:25am
Looks like my blue LED went out last night. I have used a 9 volt battery on the leads and get the green to come up fine but the blue is dead. Anyone know the best place to order a replacement for less than $100? Part number is BP07-00031A.
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post #15352 of 15397
3/18/13 at 5:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by auxiliary View Post

Looks like my blue LED went out last night. I have used a 9 volt battery on the leads and get the green to come up fine but the blue is dead. Anyone know the best place to order a replacement for less than $100? Part number is BP07-00031A.

It would probably be cheaper for you to unsolder and replace the LED on that board. You just need to get the specs and dimensions of that LED then get the CREE equivalent SMD led. You just need a low wattage soldering iron, a desolder tool or a solder wick (I prefer the wick made from old av cable shielding) and go to town. I think everything including tools and LED should be less then $50.
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post #15353 of 15397
3/18/13 at 7:03pm
61A750 still going strong after 4 1/2 years, on 10+ hours most days. Been using Lee's settings the whole time.

So I have a scratch on my screen. It's barely noticeable, but it bugs me. Has any one removed the top-most panel? Is it there for protection or does it need to be on for proper viewing. Debating whether or not to buy a replacement panel or just remove the one that is there.
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post #15354 of 15397
3/18/13 at 8:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by auxiliary View Post

Looks like my blue LED went out last night. I have used a 9 volt battery on the leads and get the green to come up fine but the blue is dead. Anyone know the best place to order a replacement for less than $100? Part number is BP07-00031A.

Sorry I don't know of anywhere to buy a led for under 100 bucks. I paid $130 for mine and I looked for a while. I ended up just getting it from Samsung. The part of actually doing the replacement was pretty easy and strait forward. I was kinda worried I was going to screw something up taking my tv apart so I ordered a service manual from Samsung. After I read it and did the work I could have done with out paying the 40 bucks for the manual.

Edit.....if I would have paid more attention to your post I would have realized that you already tore your tv apart and know that it's not that hard.
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post #15355 of 15397
3/21/13 at 8:51pm
Hey guys. I recently bought the Oppo BDP-103, calibrated the TV with the Disney WoW disc, and I now have a few questions that I'm having trouble figuring out in regards to video output settings.

#1 Does this TV support Deep Color? If so, how do I know which is preferable to select (30 bit vs 36 bit?)

#2 I now have the option of choosing my color space, and am not sure if 4:2:2, 4:4:4 or RGB output would be ideal for this TV. I understand that there is a way to test for it, but I don't own the equipment, so I was hoping someone might know which is the most ideal.

Thanks in advance for any help!
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post #15356 of 15397
3/23/13 at 8:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicodimus22 View Post

Hey guys. I recently bought the Oppo BDP-103, calibrated the TV with the Disney WoW disc, and I now have a few questions that I'm having trouble figuring out in regards to video output settings.

#1 Does this TV support Deep Color? If so, how do I know which is preferable to select (30 bit vs 36 bit?)

#2 I now have the option of choosing my color space, and am not sure if 4:2:2, 4:4:4 or RGB output would be ideal for this TV. I understand that there is a way to test for it, but I don't own the equipment, so I was hoping someone might know which is the most ideal.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Deep Color is not supported and unfortunately, although xvYCC is selectable, it was not implemented properly. Don't even try to use it.

Technically you should choose RGB Limited for the output. Colors will be more saturated and tend to look more lively under YCbCr 4:4:4 due to slight colorspace misalignment. To stay within spec choose RGB. The eye candy types like their colors to pop and I sympathize with that.
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post #15357 of 15397
3/23/13 at 4:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by KewlK View Post

Deep Color is not supported and unfortunately, although xvYCC is selectable, it was not implemented properly. Don't even try to use it.

Technically you should choose RGB Limited for the output. Colors will be more saturated and tend to look more lively under YCbCr 4:4:4 due to slight colorspace misalignment. To stay within spec choose RGB. The eye candy types like their colors to pop and I sympathize with that.

Thank you for the response. I wasn't sure how much Deep Color content there actually is out there, but I wanted to know just in case I was missing out on something.

I messed around with some test patterns and different color spaces, and found 4:2:2, 4:4:4 and RGB limited to be virtually indistinguishable from each other. RGB full seemed to clip my whites and blacks, so that's out.

My understanding is that if I use RGB limited with a 1080p output, all of the processing will be done inside the Oppo (which is good) so I'll stick with that. Thanks again!
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post #15358 of 15397
3/23/13 at 7:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by nadafinga View Post

So I have a scratch on my screen. It's barely noticeable, but it bugs me. Has any one removed the top-most panel? Is it there for protection or does it need to be on for proper viewing. Debating whether or not to buy a replacement panel or just remove the one that is there.

The outer panel is the lenticular screen while the inner is the fresnel. Image brightness and viewing angles will suffer tremendously without the lenticular and the fresnel is even more delicate. I would first experiment with an acrylic crack sealer before jumping on a new panel purchase.
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post #15359 of 15397
3/23/13 at 7:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by auxiliary View Post

Looks like my blue LED went out last night. I have used a 9 volt battery on the leads and get the green to come up fine but the blue is dead. Anyone know the best place to order a replacement for less than $100? Part number is BP07-00031A.

A seller at a very popular auction site sells used pulls for a fair price.
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post #15360 of 15397
3/24/13 at 10:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by koguma View Post

It would probably be cheaper for you to unsolder and replace the LED on that board. You just need to get the specs and dimensions of that LED then get the CREE equivalent SMD led. You just need a low wattage soldering iron, a desolder tool or a solder wick (I prefer the wick made from old av cable shielding) and go to town. I think everything including tools and LED should be less then $50.

I see that you likely enjoy working on tedious soldering projects, ditto. What you suggest is possible but would be very difficult for even someone with expert soldering skills to perform. He is better off just buying a replacement blue PhlatLight.

BTW...currently in the process of mending several extremely fragile/finely traced flexible ribbon cables. They are from a couple of vintage Aiwa 'walkman like' cassette players that some n00b had damaged ripping into them. *and yes I still enjoy listening to cassettes*biggrin.gif ...Have already exposed 1mm of copper traces at every broken ribbon's end.

Curious to know if you have successfully repaired flex cable, while preserving the suppleness and pliability? I believe that the best method will be to use micro applications of conductive adhesive, backed with scotch tape for support. Any suggestions are welcome.
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