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2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 100

post #2971 of 15398
10/6/08 at 8:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by StillwaterTownie View Post

No wonder about the rumors. The Samsung and Mitsubishi DLPs look kinda dim compared to the LCDs in Best Buy.

The LCDs are running in torch mode, which is a weak attempt to grap the attention of people, even though most people will never run it that bright in a home environment. Again I ask, "What is this obsession with getting the brightest TV?" Brightness does NOT automatically equal the best picture.
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post #2972 of 15398
10/6/08 at 8:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by wonderboy69 View Post

I realize there have been other posts in this thread relating to the performance of this TV compared to other high end LCD's and Plasma's; but I couldn't find a solid answer. Looking at the specs, it has a contrast ratio (dynamic) of 10 000:1. I know you can't really trust the specs fully as there are all sorts of ways of cheating, but 10 000:1 worries me a bit. Samsungs own LCD's are achieving 50 000:1 this year. And to be honest, I find the black levels on my Dad's XBR4 to be a little lacklustre (in a dark room).

It puzzles me that a technology like LCD could be producing better blacks than a DLP, just given the way they're designed. I know it is hard comparing different technologies, but it would be great if someone could do a basic comparison, in terms of general visual quality, i.e. black levels, brightness, colour. Because like the post above states, and from what I have seen, DLPs look kind of dull compared to LCDs and Plasmas.

First off, contrast ratio is a worthless stat, because there is no industry standard of measuring it, so companies can say whatever they want. Also, I firmly believe that black levels are better on these sets than on LCDs. If you judge a TV by what they look like at the store, you are making a big mistake.
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post #2973 of 15398
10/6/08 at 8:25pm
Not to offend anyone or anything, but this is supposed to be the owners thread, not the "This TV sucks compared to overpriced plasmas and LCDs thread", and nor is it the "I've been on the fence about buying this set for 6 months" thread either. There is a seperate discussion thread for that stuff.
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post #2974 of 15398
10/6/08 at 10:11pm
I took delivery of mine today. As a former Sammy DLP owner, I'm seeing a gap between component and HDMI. I've been testing the same demos through both inputs and HDMI brings a sharper image. Before the "digital vs analog" comments, I know the difference, but I'm seeing a large difference and comparing it to what my 50" did with component in. I may just go through HDMI for my 360 as well.
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post #2975 of 15398
10/6/08 at 11:56pm
Almost all of the extra features in the manual have a description of "makes things more better, turn on to make things more better."

So wtf do they actually do?

Dynamic/Standard/Auto / Entertainment / Film mode / Game mode etc

It's not in the FAQ. Is it not a frequently asked question?
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post #2976 of 15398
10/7/08 at 5:08am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bastian74 View Post

Almost all of the extra features in the manual have a description of "makes things more better, turn on to make things more better."

So wtf do they actually do?

Dynamic/Standard/Auto / Entertainment / Film mode / Game mode etc

It's not in the FAQ. Is it not a frequently asked question?

I had the same complaint with my A650 manual...just play with them and learn I guess
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post #2977 of 15398
10/7/08 at 5:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Romulus View Post

You need to connect the TOSLink digital audio OUT on the TV to one of the TOSLink inputs on your receiver to get the 5.1 audio from the OTA signals.

I have only one optical autio input and have had the DVD player hooked into it...
I'll try shifting it to the TV out...thanx...if it doesn't work it's no big deal since most watched shows are recorded...(pc/DVD and still have VCR tapes...)
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post #2978 of 15398
10/7/08 at 6:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by RonF View Post

I definitely wound up two clicks less on Gamma. -1. Anything to + side looks a bit washed out to me. I also experimented with dynamic contrast and kind of like Low. Movie mode, Warm 2. Contrast not as high as yours ...88, sharpness 32. Those pop to mind. But the thing is lots of scenics and city scapes to choose from and many have darker areas in bright daylight or are evening pictures and you can check what happens to the details as you experiment. Really gives you all kinds of solid, detailed pictures to test out all your parameters and A/B compare them.

Yeah I will definitely be testing some of those pics. I wonder if the gamma levels are different for different sets? My understanding of "gamma" would lead me to believe what you are saying about getting washed out. But its weird, to me 0 is washed out and +2 is washed out, but +1 is darker with a lot of contrast. It's most definitely not like a linear progression on my set,
and doesnt honestly make sense to me
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post #2979 of 15398
10/7/08 at 6:54am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by newsguy View Post

One question (which may be dumb): Are the LED based sets like the bulb based sets in that you don't want to turn them on and off too often? I know when I bought my 50" the consensus on AVS was not to turn it on and off to preserve the bulb life. Do LED's share this trait?

I too worried about that with my old set, didn't want to wear out the ballast and the bulb. I don't think this is really an issue with the LED sets. Since we don't have a color wheel, the LED's are actually flashing on and off several times a second to produce the color image on the screen. So, i don't think turning the set on and off is really an issue. At least I'm not gonna worry about it, just enjoy my new set.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian1313 View Post

Not to offend anyone or anything, but this is supposed to be the owners thread, not the "This TV sucks compared to overpriced plasmas and LCDs thread", and nor is it the "I've been on the fence about buying this set for 6 months" thread either. There is a seperate discussion thread for that stuff.

Agreed!
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post #2980 of 15398
10/7/08 at 7:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyHDTV View Post

If you have tilting issues, you can just push or pull on the top corners of the set a little to straighten it out. An odd technique to be sure, but it works fine.

The only other geometry issue I see is a slightly perceptible hourglass shape with 4:3 material. But it's mostly perception, because measuring it, there's barely a 1/16th of an inch difference between the middle and the edges. So like I said, it's very slight, and it doesn't bother me, especially considering my last CRT set, which has considerable geometry issues.

-JimmyHDTV

I think the proper way to measures the bow is with a straight edge from the top to the bottom of the screen. There is too much flex in the benzel to measure from the edge. And, by the way, the same bow is there on 16:9 material, is is just not as noticable.

My first set had a full 1/4 inch bow. The replacement has a little less that 1/8 inch. Samsung claims that 1/4 inch is within specs, but I returned it anyway.

-Bill
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post #2981 of 15398
10/7/08 at 8:12am
I've got a small bow too that's noticeable on 4x3. But so much else about the set including its convergence, white and black field uniformity and tremendous bang for the buck picture, is so good this does not bother me. The only time anyway 4x3 is up is if my wife has the remote and I can't find the same station in HD on my Charter lineup. 4x3...BAH!!
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post #2982 of 15398
10/7/08 at 8:40am
Mike_Pro, congratulations on your thread making it to page 100!

This thread has been very useful to me in not only learning more about Sammy's LED DLPs, but also the various other related (and sometimes not-so-related topics) posted here. Hopefully, the manufacturers will see threads like this and realize that people do actually care about the quality of their products--providing praise as well as sharp criticism when applicable.

Thanks again and keep up the great job!

BATman94
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post #2983 of 15398
10/7/08 at 8:45am
I noticed that non-linear change too when playing with gamma settings. I'm still at -2, but I swore some of the higher settings (toward positive) looked darker.

I'm pretty sure when I've played with gamma on photo editing on my PC it was a linear change.

Quote:
Originally Posted by finsmaniac02 View Post

Yeah I will definitely be testing some of those pics. I wonder if the gamma levels are different for different sets? My understanding of "gamma" would lead me to believe what you are saying about getting washed out. But its weird, to me 0 is washed out and +2 is washed out, but +1 is darker with a lot of contrast. It's most definitely not like a linear progression on my set,
and doesnt honestly make sense to me
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post #2984 of 15398
10/7/08 at 8:57am
The sharpness setting has been referred to a couple of times recently and I was wondering what peoples' take is on this. With my old 50" bulb Sammy DLP, it was pretty much a given to leave the setting at zero, although, truth be told, there was no discernible difference in PQ no matter how high/low the setting. Seems to be the same thing with this LED set, too. Do those of you who have a setting other than zero actually see an improvement?
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post #2985 of 15398
10/7/08 at 9:10am
I see more detail more clearly with it off zero. The default settings from factory don't have the set on zero. But, get a good solid, still, detailed image up and play with it to form your own opinions for the various settings options the set provides.
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post #2986 of 15398
10/7/08 at 9:28am
When the LED fades away at 60,00 hours or so, can it be replaced and approximately how much does it cost? Is this a do it yourself project?
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post #2987 of 15398
10/7/08 at 10:17am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BATman94 View Post

I noticed that non-linear change too when playing with gamma settings. I'm still at -2, but I swore some of the higher settings (toward positive) looked darker.

I'm pretty sure when I've played with gamma on photo editing on my PC it was a linear change.

For me it's either -2 or -1. More often -1. -2 will seem a little darker in the shadows and then a switch to -1 will pop with a little more detail there. Brightness setting for blacks I leave to default.

I do like Auto on the LED backlight though and that probably plays into the dark detail mix. There's a lot of interplay going on with all the settings.
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post #2988 of 15398
10/7/08 at 10:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobF View Post

When the LED fades away at 60,00 hours or so, can it be replaced and approximately how much does it cost? Is this a do it yourself project?

As soon as someone runs it for 7 years 24 hours 7 days a week we'll let you know....

I'm guessing this is going to require a Tech.
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post #2989 of 15398
10/7/08 at 10:42am
It seems the red convergence is shifted to the right about 1 pixel throughout the image. Everything has a red "drop-shadow" when observed close up. Also the focus is soft in teh top / left corner of the screen.

When viewing my computer desktop at 1080i I can barely make out the words on the top left.

Anyone else have anything like this? Is it worth calling service?
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post #2990 of 15398
10/7/08 at 10:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by finsmaniac02 View Post

Yeah I will definitely be testing some of those pics. I wonder if the gamma levels are different for different sets? My understanding of "gamma" would lead me to believe what you are saying about getting washed out. But its weird, to me 0 is washed out and +2 is washed out, but +1 is darker with a lot of contrast. It's most definitely not like a linear progression on my set,
and doesnt honestly make sense to me

On my set after grayscale and gamut calibration a gamma of 0 was closest to 2.2.
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post #2991 of 15398
10/7/08 at 11:08am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bastian74 View Post

It seems the red convergence is shifted to the right about 1 pixel throughout the image. Everything has a red "drop-shadow" when observed close up. Also the focus is soft in teh top / left corner of the screen.

When viewing my computer desktop at 1080i I can barely make out the words on the top left.

Anyone else have anything like this? Is it worth calling service?

Why not just run at 1080P?
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post #2992 of 15398
10/7/08 at 1:49pm
So any other owners notice the component inputs are a good deal softer than the HDMI? I checked again before work today and I'm positive it's the component inputs. I don't mind going HDMI, but I'm a little bummed out that I can't use component if I ran out of inputs. My next step would have to be an HDMI receiver.
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post #2993 of 15398
10/7/08 at 3:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobF View Post

When the LED fades away at 60,00 hours or so, can it be replaced and approximately how much does it cost? Is this a do it yourself project?

Each LED (three colors) is roughly $130 and it takes a tech to swap them (roughly half an hour).
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post #2994 of 15398
10/7/08 at 3:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles R View Post

Each LED (three colors) is roughly $130 and it takes a tech to swap them (roughly half an hour).

I was kind of under the impression that LED's would not fade. hmm....
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post #2995 of 15398
10/7/08 at 3:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tetsu96 View Post

Why not just run at 1080P?

I meant 1080p
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post #2996 of 15398
10/7/08 at 3:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by claytonc View Post

I was kind of under the impression that LED's would not fade. hmm....

They shouldn't dim (over time) but they can still fail for a variety of reasons.
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post #2997 of 15398
10/7/08 at 3:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul S Penny View Post

Ultimately my HL67A750 will be housed in a built-in surround that I originally built for my old 65" CRT projector... only issue is that the A750 doesn't have any front-accessible connectors... for digital camera, camcorder, USB, etc. So I'm thinking I'm going to want to install some kind of wall plate (maybe behind a little door or something) to provide access to perhaps composite, audio, an HDMI and the USB connector. Any thoughts / experience on doing this?

DId you have any luck in doing extenders? I tried a USB extensoin cable and the TV shut off and would not work as soon as I plugged in the cable. It worked fine with just the USB thumb device. Anyone else tried extensions?
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post #2998 of 15398
10/7/08 at 3:58pm
Anyone know a way to watch a 2.35:1 DVD without black bars AND without distortion?
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post #2999 of 15398
10/7/08 at 4:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowrance View Post

DId you have any luck in doing extenders? I tried a USB extensoin cable and the TV shut off and would not work as soon as I plugged in the cable. It worked fine with just the USB thumb device. Anyone else tried extensions?

I use a cable to extend the USB port to the front. Seems to work well.
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post #3000 of 15398
10/7/08 at 4:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sixfoot View Post

Anyone know a way to watch a 2.35:1 DVD without black bars AND without distortion?

No, you either have to stretch it or zoom in. Either option is...well there is no nice way to put it. Just watch it with the OAR intact. The film was meant to be viewied exactly as presented. Enjoy it
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