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2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 11

post #301 of 15626
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike_pro View Post

OK, I've updated the first post with revised HDMI black level and PS3 RGB settings suggestion. Thanks to all who contributed to that. It can be a very confusing issue, as the documentation of the settings and what they are doing is not good at all. But, with a lot of research and help from others, I think the settings I've posted will work great for our sets for both Blu Ray playback and gaming.

I also updated my recommended settings, and made a link to a google doc spreadsheet of other settings. I may work on adding a form to that so others can add their settings if they like.

NICE!
Thanks for your ongoing help and support Mike. Also Thanks to all of the forum members whom are also nice enough to contribute their findings.
Once I can spend some Quality time with mine, I will do my best to contribute as well.

I mean lets be honest here..
Without this board and all of its insightful information, very few of us would be able to make the informed buying decisions that we have made and are yet to make.
Perfect example for me is not only the 61a750 i bought a week ago, but also the MACK warranty, which i would NEVER had known about if not for this board!

so THANKS to all!
Jay a.k.a X
post #302 of 15626
- 1080p over Component issue.
Some people have issues connecting the Xbox to the set and getting 1080p. In this case, the best connection option for Xbox is VGA cable, (or HMDI if you have that). NOTE that firmware 1000.5 should fix this issue.

I can confirm that the 1000.5 corrects this issue. After applying last night my 360 played Assasins Creed over 1080p flawlessly for 30 minutes straight.
post #303 of 15626
Quote:
Originally Posted by ivo welch View Post

Could someone please point me to a review of how the new LED series does, especially compared with the 2007 series?

The 2007 series received pretty poor reviews for its poor contrast ratio. Is the 2008 series a class better? Can it compete with high-end LCD displays (like the Samsung own's LN-52A750)? [I presume it cannot compete with Plasma's for blacks and shadow details.]

Update: Just found one for the older T6187S: http://www.hometheatermag.com/lcds/2...ce/index1.html

/iaw

Anyone know/seen any reviews for this actual HDTV 61 or 67???

It seems almost impossible to find reviews in the internet, cause when you search, all you get are sites trying to sell the darn thing, I want a real review, darnit.
post #304 of 15626
Closest thing to a review, also seems to confirm a few things:

http://www.electronichouse.com/artic..._illumination/

Maybe Samsung stayed with Dark Chip 3 because that is what the PhlatLight was designed for? (xHD5 = DC3)

The PhlatLight is only designed to work with TVs up to 67".

Best news is there are working on PhlatLight for Front Projectors . . .
post #305 of 15626
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike_pro View Post

OK, I've updated the first post with revised HDMI black level and PS3 RGB settings suggestion. Thanks to all who contributed to that.

Great Mike, thanks!! I've been gone and just got caught up on the thread, very interesting posts you found. I'm glad I could help out our fellow A750 owners.
post #306 of 15626
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkeener71 View Post

Anyone know/seen any reviews for this actual HDTV 61 or 67???

It seems almost impossible to find reviews in the internet, cause when you search, all you get are sites trying to sell the darn thing, I want a real review, darnit.

Found this message on cnet:

Unscheduled upcoming CNET HDTV reviews, arranged in alphabetical order
LG 50PG20: Entry-level 50-inch plasma
Mitsubishi LT-46148: 46-inch flat-panel LCD with 120Hz
Mitsubishi WD-65735: 65-inch rear-projection DLP
Samsung HL61A750: LED-based 61-inch rear-projection DLP
Samsung LN46A750: 46-inch high-end LCD; step-up to the Editors' Choice LN52A650
Samsung SP-A800B: "Joe Kane" DLP projector. If you don't know, don't ask.
Toshiba 42RV530U: Entry-level 1080p LCD
Vizio VP322: Entry-level 32-inch plasma
Vizio VP422: Entry-level 42-inch plasma
Westinghouse VK-40F580D: 40-inch LCD with built-in DVD player
post #307 of 15626
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillNole View Post

aarti,

Let me know how it turns out. I've read reviews where people have claimed they liked the stand, but I've also read many to the contrary. You know my experience and I'll be interested to hear about yours!

I received the TR-500X3BX yesterday, i am very happy with it. The instructions were correct, I had read some reviews about the instructions being incorrect but this was not the case for me. After spending an 1hr:25 mins. The stand was setup. I am getting my TV on friday. Will keep you guys updated on my exp. -
post #308 of 15626
Quote:
Originally Posted by chripuck View Post

- 1080p over Component issue.
Some people have issues connecting the Xbox to the set and getting 1080p. In this case, the best connection option for Xbox is VGA cable, (or HMDI if you have that). NOTE that firmware 1000.5 should fix this issue.

I can confirm that the 1000.5 corrects this issue. After applying last night my 360 played Assasins Creed over 1080p flawlessly for 30 minutes straight.

i can confirm that it's NOT fixed though - when i try to go 1080p, the screen goes blank for a 10 seconds and then reverts back to 1080i. i don't see the little box that says 'hit ok to keep this resolution'

post #309 of 15626
Currently, I own a HL61A750 61 inch. Last night flashing dots appeared all over my screen. They appear as white, blue, green or black depending on the background color. They seem to group in some areas, or randomly pop up in other areas. The set is only a few months old. I've made an appoinment with a samsung tech, they will arrive tomorrow.

This is set actually my second replacement. The first set had a purple/blue halo effect and serious bowing and geometry issues.

Questions:

1. What is this issue called? I've run searches on Sparkle, sparklies, flashing dots, but what is the technical term?
2. Has anyone else seen this with their HL61A750 61"?
3. Does this issue come from the lamp, screen, etc?

I've tried multiple HDMI cables all with the same results.

I see this effect in Live TV and recorded TV from my HTPC, DVD playback, both HD and Blu-ray and my PS3.

When I power on the set the picture looks fine from all sources, after about 20 minutes the flashing "sparkles" start to appear and get progressively worse.

Typically I find all my answers to my home theater issues on in these forums, but I don't know which search terms I should use.

I've seen posts related to HDMI cables, bad circuit boards, etc. with no resolution other than returning the TV and nothing specific to the HL61A750.

Can someone point me in the right direction?
post #310 of 15626
Well I have been meaning to post my test results for days now after having unboxed My 61A750 on memorial day over a week ago and just haven't had a chance. So here goes...

Initially taking out of the box I was displeased with how it was packed(I did post this in detail HERE).
Then after the initial shock of seeing how flimsy the frame and overall casing were (which was even more disappointing than the packaging)
I saw how great the Picture quality was, although some tweaking was definitely needed.
So it was my goal to test the TV having played some Games and BD's with my PS3. And also to get out to my local Best Buy Or Circuit City to have a look at Mine and other RP DLP Tvs as well to see how they fare in terms of the frame and casing as it pertains to screen sway and its effect on the known geometry issues.

Having done that now, first I have to say, after visiting Best Buy I have noticed that while the 61a750 they had on display did have a little play in the frame/casing, it was not as "loose" as mine appears to be. But having compared it to the overall stiffness and build of the Sony 60a3000 and the Mitsubishi Diamond series, the Samsung definitely has a noticeably lower Build Quality. (unfortunately they did not have the 67A750 yet)
I Asked the Sales Girl(Who really appeared to know her stuff) for the remote to the 61a750 so I could access the service menu and display some test screens, namely the crosshatch. We did so, and While the one on the floor was just a tad off(also counterclockwise just like mine) it was not quite as bad as mine is off. And in addition, on mine I can gently pull or push on the top corners of the frame and watch the crosshatch enter and exit the correct position, however on the floor model at BB this was not as easy to do since the frame was noticeably stiffer and more rigid(tighter actually) than mine, but it was STILL possible to accomplish. On mine you can actually almost manipulate the frame to STAY in the correct position within 1/16th of an inch. Due to the rigidity of the floor model this was not the case. NOW I KNOW that your not supposed to push and pull on the top frame to correct geometry issues, and that this is actually accomplished by correcting the tilt via accessing the inside of the set via the rear, behind a panel(as opposed to a freaking keystone or tilt adjustment in the service menu, which we SHOULD have and DON'T), but I am merely stating this to emphasize the issue that MY set has with the case/frame being to LOOSE.

Now all that aside, again I have to say the set looks AWESOME. I HAVE HAD issues with getting the PS3 setup so as to prevent the BANDING issue that we have been posting about recently, and it seems that no matter what I have everything set at (having tried just about all of the user settings listed on this and the discussion forum), there is STILL always SOME degree of banding that remains. Also some degree of pixelation as well which appears to go hand in hand with the Banding issue.
I do not have cable or satellite at my house yet so I Have only been able to test with the PS3. I also don't have a calibration disc (other than an SD dvd or two with the THX calibration on it. So basically when watching Blurays it looks pretty damn good. Games as well for the most part. However I can notice issues with at least HALF of the Bluray Trailers I play (ALL downloaded from the playstation store) as far as Banding and pixelation goes.(and have never noticed it before on either my parents tv in 1080i or my cousins panny projector at 1080p)
So, I was playing with RGB Full and Limited last night after reading some of the posts here, and can DEFINITELY SAY that I see the difference. Limited looks WAY better IMO. Full made all the blacks looked washed out or like.. to bright..more grey than black. I was in Movie mode with contrast between 86 and 89, brightness at between 46 and 50, color at 49, tint at G52/R48 and sharpness at between 10 to 20, and i cant remember the detailed settings off the top of my head.

at any rate, I REALLY look forward to having this setup correctly and look RIGHT, and if not right then at least GOOD with reduced or NO banding issues.
But until then I have to decide what to do about the set .

Between of the Frame/Geometry issues and because of the awesome PQ,
I am really torn as to whether I should
A) Keep it and calibrate properly, then deal with the flimsiness & geometry,
B) Return it for an identical model,(more or the same?)
C) Return if for a different set all together, or
D) Have it serviced ALREADY.

But there ya have it.. My test results and thoughts as to my 61a750 purchase. All this aside.. I would be 110% satisfied if the frame was stiffer and there were no geometry issues. The rest can be worked out with proper calibration i believe.

SUGGESTIONS?
post #311 of 15626
Finally, samsung decided to replace my 61A750. As all of us know, most of us have geometry and other issues in this model. My tilt is about 1/2 inches vertical and horizontal. Less bowing but hour glass issue is there. I made several calls to Samsung support and finally they decide to exchange it.
Not sure if new TV will be better!!
post #312 of 15626
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ntr0s View Post

Currently, I own a HL61A750 61 inch. Last night flashing dots appeared all over my screen. They appear as white, blue, green or black depending on the background color. They seem to group in some areas, or randomly pop up in other areas. The set is only a few months old. I've made an appoinment with a samsung tech, they will arrive tomorrow.

I recommend you take some photos or videos now of your problem when it appears; just in case the problem fails to occur while your repair tech is on the scene.
post #313 of 15626
Quote:
Originally Posted by srudoff View Post

i can confirm that it's NOT fixed though - when i try to go 1080p, the screen goes blank for a 10 seconds and then reverts back to 1080i. i don't see the little box that says 'hit ok to keep this resolution'

Hmmm. I never had that happen, even with the problem that was fixed in 1005.3, which was for component. The symptom was everything appears fine and then the screen would go black intermittently (lose sync?). That's all been fixed for me by using firmware 1005.3 Are you connected to the TV via component?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple-X View Post

So, I was playing with RGB Full and Limited last night after reading some of the posts here, and can DEFINITELY SAY that I see the difference. Limited looks WAY better IMO. Full made all the blacks looked washed out or like.. to bright..more grey than black.

Try Full again. Be sure to change the TV's HDMI Black level to Normal when using PS3's RGB output set to Full. The picture should look the same as Limited with HDMI Black level set to Low, minus the color banding on games, the dashboard, and video content from the Playstation Store. It wont affect BD/DVD if you have that set to use Y Pb/Cb Pr/C in the BD/DVD settings on the PS3.
post #314 of 15626
Well.. I finally saw some issues with my 67'. I say 'finally' even though I've only had it for 3 days.. lol

Had it on baseball and the ticker at the top was noticably slanted... it was off by less than a 1/4 inch and I found that pusing either corner of the tv back would move either side.. my solution : I pushed both corners back and let them come back as naturally as possible..now it looks fine.. I'm not going to measure it again unless its noticible.

I don't think I could bear going through the return process (and I'd have to do it through samsung I'm sure as they place I got it was small and likely wouldn't switch it for this).. in any case... it looks fine now.. I hope it stays that way.. and PQ it still fantastic and overall I'm happy... to be honest I dont' know if I would have noticed the 'tilt' had I not read that it might exist..

*********EDIT********

apologies for putting this post in both the owners thread and discussion.. I thought I was being helpful and did not realize this was frowned upon
post #315 of 15626
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nullman View Post

Here are some of the settings I've been using for my PS3 and Xbox 360, each are connected to the TV directly. I use the PS3 for games, BD and DVD movie playback. The Xbox 360 is mainly for games. I came to these settings using AVCHD 700 (RC1), Avia, DVE (both DVD and Blu-ray versions), as well as some test pattern images loaded on to both my PS3 and 360. This page (http://nicolaspeople.com/ch3rokeesblog/?p=13) described who should be using full range RGB. Their test image shows the 61A750 supports full range RGB. In this mode I had to set my TV's HDMI Black Level to Normal instead of Low, which would be used for limited RGB. These settings affect my PS3's XMB stuff and games. I am using Y Pb/Cb Pe/Cr for Blu-ray and DVD output on the PS3 along with Y Pb/Cb Pe/Cr Super White On. A couple of test images that you can use to adjust Brightness and Contrast for the PS3 XMB and games can be found here: http://sr-388.net/images/patterns/

PS3 connected via HDMI:

Mode: Movie
Contrast: 95
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 0
Color: 49
Tint (G/R): G50/R50

Detailed Settings:
Black Adjust: Off
Dynamic Contrast: Off
LED Control: Auto (I have lowered it at night when watching movies if it is too bright)
Gamma: -3
White Balance: 0
Flesh Tone: 0
Edge Enhancement: Off
xvYCC: Off

Picture Options:
Color Tone: Warm1
Size: Just Scan
Digital NR: Off
DNIe (grayed out): Off
HDMI Black Level: Normal
Film Mode (grayed out): Off
Color Gamut :sRGB

My PS3 display settings:
Video Output Settings: 1080p
Cross Color Reduction Filter: Off
RGB Full Range (HDMI): Full
Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Super White (HDMI): On

My PS3 Blu-ray settings:
Cinema Conversion: Automatic
DVD Wide Display: Letterbox
DVD Upscaler: Normal
BD/DVD Video Output Format (HDMI): Y Pb/Cb Pe/Cr
BD 1080p 24 Hz Output (HDMI): On


Xbox360 connected via component (no HDMI on my 360):

Mode: Movie
Contrast: 95
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 0
Color: 51
Tint (G/R): G49/R51

Detailed Settings:
Black Adjust: Off
Dynamic Contrast: Off
LED Control: Auto
Gamma: -3
White Balance: 0
Flesh Tone: 0
Edge Enhancement: Off
xvYCC (grayed out): Off

Picture Options:
Color Tone: Warm1
Size: Just Scan
Digital NR: Off
DNIe (grayed out): Off
HDMI Black Level (grayed out): Normal
Film Mode: Off
Color Gamut: sRGB

Xbox 360 Display Settings: 1080p. Black Level (only affects 480p output and DVD playback, which I don't use the 360 for) is currently set to Extended, only because it is correct with the brightness level of 45. The other two modes, while able to display blacker than black, required me to set the brightness to 30 for Standard and 38 for Intermediate, which was then too dark for the dashboard and games.

My Xbox360 output is set to 1080i. At 1080p using component output I had the TV lose sync/black out and come back on intermittently. Not a problem at 1080i though - Update: Firmware update 1005.3 has fixed this problem for me, my 360 works fine now at 1080p over component.

*5/25 - Updated some settings and added the note about firmware fixing Xbox360 1080p component interoperability.
*5/27 - Update details about why I seleted Full RGB for the PS3's XBM and games.


I searched and don't see anyone talking about the gaming lag on this TV. I just got my 61" yesterday. I intended on replacing my 55" JVC LCOS with it. One problem is that my center channel speaker is too heavy on the omnimount stand. The screen looked to bow. Not sure if it was just like that or what. Anyway, that isn't my main issue. I removed the speaker and can see that the TV can torque more than my JCV, not a huge deal... I can work that out. The big problem is the latency/lag that I've found when testing Halo 3. I thought for sure they had this problem solved in DLPs by now yet I immediately noticed it and it makes sniping near impossible to me. I had this problem when testing the Samsungs 2 years ago when I bought my JVC and I found it through testing in the stores. I for some reason had faith that they had this type of issue fixed by now and didn't test in store. I play mostly FPS games and don't know if I can live with the lag as bad as it is. I set my TV settings to match this (except the 1080p doesn't work through the component so I set it to 720p and tried 1080i). All of the other settings are the same. Am I the only one to find lag when playing the 360? I'm not sure what TV I'm going to get to exchange this one if there isn't a fix for it. Maybe I'll stick with my JVC another year and wait for flat panel LCD to drop further in price. Any comments would be appreciated.
post #316 of 15626
I was more or less decided on a 67" A750, then I went to B.B. and looked at the 61 and 67 next to each other. They had equal amounts of screen sway when equal pressure was applied to the sides. I assume they had the same out of the box calibration, brightness and color saturation seemed equal. What I noticed after a few minutes of viewing them was that the 61" has a sharper image. It was subtle, but noticeable enough to make me buy the 61", even though I really wanted a 67" for the extra real estate. The price difference didn't hurt either, but it was the sharper image that made the sale. I'm a little sad that I didn't get the 67", but I had to go with what my eyes told me.
post #317 of 15626
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nullman View Post



Try Full again. Be sure to change the TV's HDMI Black level to Normal when using PS3's RGB output set to Full. The picture should look the same as Limited with HDMI Black level set to Low, minus the color banding on games, the dashboard, and video content from the Playstation Store. It wont affect BD/DVD if you have that set to use Y Pb/Cb Pr/C in the BD/DVD settings on the PS3.

You said "minus" the color banding
Are you saying by setting it to rgb full and black level to normal that the picture will look the same WITH EXCEPTION to the Games, dashboard and downloaded content, or did you mean it will look the same but you will REMOVE the banding ?



EDIT
I just reread your reply.. I understand what you meant now.. Sorry.. its been a long day and it read funny to me at first.
post #318 of 15626
Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple-X View Post


Between of the Frame/Geometry issues and because of the awesome PQ,
I am really torn as to whether I should
A) Keep it and calibrate properly, then deal with the flimsiness & geometry,
B) Return it for an identical model,(more or the same?)
C) Return if for a different set all together, or
D) Have it serviced ALREADY.

But there ya have it.. My test results and thoughts as to my 61a750 purchase. All this aside.. I would be 110% satisfied if the frame was stiffer and there were no geometry issues. The rest can be worked out with proper calibration i believe.

SUGGESTIONS?

Hey man, sounds like we are in the same boat. I love the picture on my 61", but the geometry issues are driving me a little nuts. I have a couple more days to return it to BB, then after that Im stuck dealing with Samsung, which makes me nervous.

Does having the set calibrated/serviced resolve the geometry issues? And if so will Samsung do that free of charge in our situation? At what point will they replace the set do to pincushioning?

I really dont want to go with a different TV, I like this one and especially like the fact that its LED driven. Keep me posted as to what you do with yours man.


Oh, one more thing, how do you access the grid displays on the tv? I wasnt able to find them.
post #319 of 15626
Quote:
Originally Posted by csu husker View Post

Does having the set calibrated/serviced resolve the geometry issues?

Based on experience with the HL-T and HL-S models, calibration will not help. There are no service adjustments for the smiley face or pin cushioning.
Quote:
Originally Posted by csu husker View Post

And if so will Samsung do that free of charge in our situation?

Samsung does not ever pay for calibration according to a previously reported response from the service center.
Quote:
Originally Posted by csu husker View Post

At what point will they replace the set do to pincushioning?

When it exceeds what Samsung considers "normal" for dlp sets. A service rep told me that Samsung considers up to .5" as normal for both the smiley and pin cushioning.
Quote:
Originally Posted by csu husker View Post

Oh, one more thing, how do you access the grid displays on the tv? I wasnt able to find them.

Don't know. I have an A650.

BTW, I had a total of 3 exchanges thru BB before I got a set with which I was satisfied. I was surprised at the lack of grief I received when I asked for the exchanges. The first was because of geometry (even though the authorized service person Samsung sent out said that there was not anything wrong with the geometry), the second was for a bad port that as it turns out was bent but functional, and the last was because i wanted a set with a later version of the firmware (which Samsung would not give me). It was much easier to work with BB than with Samsung. Since I paid for the initial delivery, BB just showed with a new set and took the old one each time.
post #320 of 15626
Quote:
Originally Posted by donb1948 View Post

It was much easier to work with BB than with Samsung.

Thanks for all the info DonB. This is what Im afraid of, dealing with Samsung and not BB. Guess I will either take my set back to BB and try another or just move on and keep my current set as it is.
post #321 of 15626
Yesterday I happened to notice a huge 72" Mits on display at the local Best City, so I checked it out closely (and with a large dose of size envy), comparing it to my 61" Sammy. Anyway...as I always do when I conduct scientific evaluations of large screen TVs, I stepped back about 10 feet then ran full speed into the TV and gave it the big WWE forearm closeline near the top of the screen. WW! It completely tumbled off its stand and came crashing down to the showroom floor in an big explosion of sparks and shattered glass -- what a mess! Don't worry -- I escaped unharmed. However, due to this serious safety mishap, the 72 Mits must be rated as a dangerously unstable TV. As such, I cannot in good conscience give it a "Buy Now" seal of approval, even though it's reported to have a pretty good picture...this evaluation ended prematurely due to technical difficulties.

And I'm like so glad I chose the solid and safe Sammy!
post #322 of 15626
I'm looking for the lowest price on this TV... it looks like some people got free shipping from Amazon, but it looks like when I search there it still is charging me 199$ for shipping. Any suggestions?
post #323 of 15626
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgooter View Post

Slam,
Congrats on getting the 67! Along the way may I suggest you give your 67 the opportunity to do all the upconverting for your SD DVDs? That is, try running your DVDs at their native 480i. Chances are you'll see that your 67's scaler is much better than your DVD player's upconverter for processing the 480i image to your screen's native 1080p resolution. I do the same with my cable box and the results are noticebly better with my 61" 750.

This is the first I am hearing about this. I use my PS3 for all DVD playback, both Blu-Ray and regular, so should I turn the upconverting feature of my PS3 off and set my Digital Cable box to 480i?

I actually did notice that playing a SD dvd in my PS3 did produce a slightly grainy picture, but I just wrote it off as me being picky after watching animated HD movies, which nothing compares to.

Also, for others comparing prices and such, I purchased my 61A750 on Memorial Day from CC for $1690 after being on sale for $1899 and using a 10% coupon that a friend gave me after moving. I was looking at a Salamander tv stand and audio rack until I found a set by TechCraft for half the price, and a much better look (SWP60 and SWH4024).
post #324 of 15626
No replies on gaming lag / latency issues? I figured surely I'm not the only one playing Halo 3 out there who bought this TV. I'm looking to have Best Buy pick it up and maybe send something else out but I don't know what. If I don't then I'll keep my JVC another year. I was hoping to get some input from the forums but it seems that not many people are gaming or they are off enjoying (or returning) their new Samsung.
post #325 of 15626
Hey Kainan... I just go the TV and haven't had time to game much so can't comment a lot.. the only thing I've tried so far is Half Life 2 and it 'seems' to be fine.. I'll try and throw in Gears of War tonight and see if I notice anything.. I was just playing on standard mode also and it seemed fine to me.. I too thought that DLP's handled this and no lag and so far thats what I've found... though it may be that I'm not sniping on xbox live and that its not as much of an issue in off line gaming..

sd
post #326 of 15626
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kainan View Post

No replies on gaming lag / latency issues? I figured surely I'm not the only one playing Halo 3 out there who bought this TV. I'm looking to have Best Buy pick it up and maybe send something else out but I don't know what. If I don't then I'll keep my JVC another year. I was hoping to get some input from the forums but it seems that not many people are gaming or they are off enjoying (or returning) their new Samsung.

I cant speak for the whole but asi only got my set yesterday and briefly played GT5:Prologue for one race, and i can say i saw absolutely no lag. Ill be one of the first to post if there is some as i game alot.
post #327 of 15626
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDookie View Post

...so should I turn the upconverting feature of my PS3 off and set my Digital Cable box to 480i?
I actually did notice that playing a SD dvd in my PS3 did produce a slightly grainy picture, but I just wrote it off as me being picky after watching animated HD movies, which nothing compares to.

I'm using a new Sony upconverting SD DVD player set at 480i resolution output. For me, the PQ is better on the 61" by doing it this way. I think it's worth giving it a try and let your eye be the judge. The main reason I bought an upconverting player was simply for the convenience of using HDMI.
post #328 of 15626
Quote:
Originally Posted by Layd Dly View Post

I cant speak for the whole but asi only got my set yesterday and briefly played GT5:Prologue for one race, and i can say i saw absolutely no lag. Ill be one of the first to post if there is some as i game alot.

Please check a shooter if you have one. I can see how I could adjust to most games except FPS because they require instant movement due to the constant movement back and forth (especially sniping where you are zoomed and trying to stay on track with an enemy.) I made a new thread on the gaming lag. Maybe you can post there and the gaming opinion won't get lost. I did ask there if the TV had a Game mode and if so what does it do. I couldn't find one on this set. Thanks for your reply
post #329 of 15626
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgooter View Post

I'm using a new Sony upconverting SD DVD player set at 480i resolution output. For me, the PQ is better on the 61" by doing it this way. I think it's worth giving it a try and let your eye be the judge. The main reason I bought an upconverting player was simply for the convenience of using HDMI.

I tried it both ways, and my personal preference is still upconverting on the dvd player. With it turned off, the picture was "smoother" (less grainy) but it lost a lot more detail at the same time. Thanks for the tip though, I can definitely see where some people will prefer it your way even though I preferred something different.
post #330 of 15626
Quote:
Originally Posted by slamduncan View Post

Hey Kainan... I just go the TV and haven't had time to game much so can't comment a lot.. the only thing I've tried so far is Half Life 2 and it 'seems' to be fine.. I'll try and throw in Gears of War tonight and see if I notice anything.. I was just playing on standard mode also and it seemed fine to me.. I too thought that DLP's handled this and no lag and so far thats what I've found... though it may be that I'm not sniping on xbox live and that its not as much of an issue in off line gaming..

sd

I opened a new topic for this at

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1036409

I look forward to your comments as well. Gears of War should be a better test, especially when you go to FPS view for aiming.
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