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2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 101

post #3001 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bastian74 View Post

It seems the red convergence is shifted to the right about 1 pixel throughout the image. Everything has a red "drop-shadow" when observed close up. Also the focus is soft in teh top / left corner of the screen.

When viewing my computer desktop at 1080i I can barely make out the words on the top left.

Anyone else have anything like this? Is it worth calling service?

I had a similar (focus) issue. Called a tech. It only got worse. It may be worth getting a replacement.
post #3002 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrcorwin View Post

No, you either have to stretch it or zoom in. Either option is...well there is no nice way to put it. Just watch it with the OAR intact. The film was meant to be viewied exactly as presented. Enjoy it

Don't get me started on that - damn directors want us to buy 8 different TVs so their artistic vision is not distorted.
post #3003 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by v256 View Post

I had a similar issue. Called a tech. It only got worse. It may be worth getting a replacement.

Only if you can swap yourself. The tech that came to my house said convergence is not adjustable and can only be modified with all new parts. He said the slack allowed on convergence with DLP is HUGE so it will almost certainly be within their specs.
post #3004 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by sixfoot View Post

Don't get me started on that - damn directors want us to buy 8 different TVs so their artistic vision is not distorted.

No one ever said that. The black bars are supposed to be there. You're seeing the film as intended. Filmmaking is an art and the filmmaker is the artist.
post #3005 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by newsguy View Post

... I don't mind going HDMI, but I'm a little bummed out that I can't use component if I ran out of inputs. My next step would have to be an HDMI receiver.

Or a $30 HDMI switch box.
post #3006 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post

Or a $30 HDMI switch box.

Which is fine, or just charge me $30 more for the TV and give me solid component inputs.
post #3007 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrcorwin View Post

No, you either have to stretch it or zoom in. Either option is...well there is no nice way to put it. Just watch it with the OAR intact. The film was meant to be viewied exactly as presented. Enjoy it

What jcorwin said

You might want to read up on aspect ratios sixfoot. Your TV (and all HDTVs) are 16:9, so anything wider will have letterboxes, and anything narrower will have pillarboxes, unless you stretch it, but I'd strongly recommend you never do this unless you like looking at fubar images.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aspect_ratio_(image)
post #3008 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bastian74 View Post

It seems the red convergence is shifted to the right about 1 pixel throughout the image. Everything has a red "drop-shadow" when observed close up. Also the focus is soft in teh top / left corner of the screen.

Samsung's basic approach is the center of the image should be fairly well focussed. Meaning all three colors should be closely aligned. Going outwards from there the alignment will be worse. The magic number they use is 1/8"... each color should be within 1/8" of the center of a one pixel line. Now if the 1/8" rule covers only the center or the entire screen I don't know.

From having an optical block swapped I think the convergence is mostly determined by the cabinet itself and the large mirror attached to it. The optical block only plays a small part. With this in mind if you want your convergence improved getting a new set is probably your only option.

Working with Samsung is (almost) totally done by your repair guy and at times no fun at all. If possible go back to your dealer as in most cases they will be more than willing to swap sets for you.

I had a screen issue (with multiple back ordered parts) and Samsung made it clear they had no interest in swapping sets. Even their corporate office said such even though my repair guy and two Samsung's service reps said they would if parts were backordered (next to forever).

Magically after x number of calls (more than I could count) I received a call and was given an authorized replacement number. Two days later I had a new set.

The convergence wasn't as good on this set so I had it serviced and while here the repair guy called Samsung and received the above info about convergence. Which pronounced my set to be within specs.

Discussing it with him after the call he took a good look at the center of the screen and decided it wasn't focussed perfectly so he wanted to swap the optical block. It was his call and I'm sure Samsung would have said it was fine.

Swapping optical blocks I saw a minor improvement although the convergence remained about 90% or more the same. As I posted earlier the real gain was from him doing a manual and electronic focus as I could easily see the image was sharper.

Moral of the story if you aren't happy with your set swap it with your dealer. After 30-days you can still get something done but often it won't be pretty.
post #3009 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles R View Post

Samsung's basic approach is the center of the image should be fairly well focussed. Meaning all three colors should be closely aligned. Going outwards from there the alignment will be worse. The magic number they use is 1/8"... each color should be within 1/8" of the center of a one pixel line. Now if the 1/8" rule covers only the center or the entire screen I don't know.

From having an optical block swapped I think the convergence is mostly determined by the cabinet itself and the large mirror attached to it. The optical block only plays a small part. With this in mind if you want your convergence improved getting a new set is probably your only option.

Working with Samsung is (almost) totally done by your repair guy and at times no fun at all. If possible go back to your dealer as in most cases they will be more than willing to swap sets for you.

I had a screen issue (with multiple back ordered parts) and Samsung made it clear they had no interest in swapping sets. Even their corporate office said such even though my repair guy and two Samsung's service reps said they would if parts were backordered (next to forever).

Magically after x number of calls (more than I could count) I received a call and was given an authorized replacement number. Two days later I had a new set.

The convergence wasn't as good on this set so I had it serviced and while here the repair guy called Samsung and received the above info about convergence. Which pronounced my set to be within specs.

Discussing it with him after the call he took a good look at the center of the screen and decided it wasn't focussed perfectly so he wanted to swap the optical block. It was his call and I'm sure Samsung would have said it was fine.

Swapping optical blocks I saw a minor improvement although the convergence remained about 90% or more the same. As I posted earlier the real gain was from him doing a manual and electronic focus as I could easily see the image was sharper.

Moral of the story if you aren't happy with your set swap it with your dealer. After 30-days you can still get something done but often it won't be pretty.


Central Indiana here as well. Nice to know I'm not the only owner in the area.
post #3010 of 15631
Charles:

Hmmmmm....

1/8 inch is roughly 3 pixels over on a 67" screen. (60" wide divided by 1920 pixels = 0.03125". Like I said, "roughly".)

Are you saying Samsung says a misalignment of 3pixels between r,g, and b is within spec?

Or am I misunderstanding the issue?
post #3011 of 15631
Oops....

Early AM fuzzy math.

Make that 4 pixels misalignment.
post #3012 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by sixfoot View Post

Anyone know a way to watch a 2.35:1 DVD without black bars AND without distortion?

You have to set up the DVD player to the necessary aspect ratio for accessing (thru the p.size button) ZOOM1 option (as oppossed to "wide fit") which gives you the same aspect ratio as the native input signal...however, while you will have no distortion, you will lose a bit of image at top and bottom...someday, some mfgr will give us the option for continuous zooming to fit the screen as closely as possible.
post #3013 of 15631
If you thought bars for 2.35 were bad...The blu-ray release of Sleeping Beauty is in 2.55. While that was done to show even more of the original footage, it is using even less of the real estate we invested in. However the bars have not been too annoying to me when I get immersed into the movie.

What we'll need down the road is a projector that transforms to the aspect ratio as needed or some futuristic paper-thin screen that morphs to the aspect ratio of the movie (I think a few years down the road though ;-) ).

Quote:
Originally Posted by sixfoot View Post

Don't get me started on that - damn directors want us to buy 8 different TVs so their artistic vision is not distorted.
post #3014 of 15631
CIH=Constant Image Height
post #3015 of 15631
Yes, I always wondered why the manufacturer's went with the 1:66 to 1 aspect ratio when the high-def widescreen TVs came out, rather than 2:35 to 1.
post #3016 of 15631
They didn't....it's 1:78 to 1
post #3017 of 15631
Finally pulled the trigger on the 67 incher! It is now shipping again from Amazon ($1999.98, no tax, no shipping ).

Avical is going to be in my area later this year. A question to all of you that have had your sets professionally calibrated..is it worth the $400+?
Are there any pictures of before/after?
post #3018 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by moonhawk View Post

1/8 inch is roughly 3 pixels over on a 67" screen. (60" wide divided by 1920 pixels = 0.03125". Like I said, "roughly".)

Are you saying Samsung says a misalignment of 3pixels between r,g, and b is within spec?

Or am I misunderstanding the issue?

I don't work for Samsung but I have heard 1/8" quoted on more than one occasion. If the center is anywhere close I wouldn't be surprised that having one of the colors off by more than one pixel elsewhere would be fine according to Samsung.

When the tech calls Samsung the first thing out of their mouth is if the center is close it's fine... pushing further 1/8" comes into play. Just like their replacement set policy they won't actually admit anything (so you can't artificially meet the requirements).
post #3019 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Romulus View Post

You need to connect the TOSLink digital audio OUT on the TV to one of the TOSLink inputs on your receiver to get the 5.1 audio from the OTA signals.

I redirected the wiring and it works...!
almost....
the tv audio lags behind the A/V audio so I have to turn the TV speakers down...but no big deal at all...

Now I have to figure out why the output from the A/V isn't going to my PC...ugh....
GOTIT....fiiiiiiiiinallllllllly.

Thanks a lot Doc...
post #3020 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by bebfoo View Post

What jcorwin said

You might want to read up on aspect ratios sixfoot. Your TV (and all HDTVs) are 16:9, so anything wider will have letterboxes, and anything narrower will have pillarboxes, unless you stretch it, but I'd strongly recommend you never do this unless you like looking at fubar images.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aspect_ratio_(image)

I know about these, I just wish I could ALWAYS watch 100% of my screen regardless of the ratio. I wish Samsung had figured out a way to zoom on a 2.35:1 without distortion - I do not care if some of the sides or top & bottom are cut off.

How do Movie Theaters get it right every time? Don't they always use 100% of the screen?
post #3021 of 15631
Slightly off topic, but has anyone received one of these as a warranty replacement? Particularly replacing the **79 series?... Thanks!
post #3022 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by sixfoot View Post

How do Movie Theaters get it right every time? Don't they always use 100% of the screen?

No. they use a constant height rig and use curtains or something similar to mask or uncover the sides of the screen as needed. (Or, rather, that's what I was told.)
post #3023 of 15631
Digital Liquidators has the 61 for $1192 + $200 shipping= $1,392...over $400 cheaper than CC in my area. Anybody have any experience with them? Very hesitant to buy something this big and have it trucked halfway across the country! Have most of you bought online or from B&M stores? If online, who would you recommend other than Amazon? Thanks.
post #3024 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtw4991 View Post

Digital Liquidators has the 61 for $1192 + $200 shipping= $1,392...over $400 cheaper than CC in my area. Anybody have any experience with them? Very hesitant to buy something this big and have it trucked halfway across the country! Have most of you bought online or from B&M stores? If online, who would you recommend other than Amazon? Thanks.

The Big River comparison to the New York based merchant should include their $349 delivery; plus the return policies are very different. My dealing with BR is excellent and it's worth it to me to pay a few scant dollars more for the experience.

I am going to place an order for the 61 Sammy this Friday and while I could save $50 by going somewhere else, I think BR is the best overall value. IMHO.

Good Luck!
post #3025 of 15631
thanks...what is Big River's website? didn't google at all
post #3026 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtw4991 View Post

thanks...what is Big River's website? didn't google at all

amazon.com.
post #3027 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by onepanda View Post

Finally pulled the trigger on the 67 incher! It is now shipping again from Amazon ($1999.98, no tax, no shipping ).

Avical is going to be in my area later this year. A question to all of you that have had your sets professionally calibrated..is it worth the $400+?
Are there any pictures of before/after?

Stay on top of those free amazon shippers. Track your shipment from the shiping company website, not amazon.

They quoted me 8 days to deliver it. I noticed it showed up in my town in 2 days. I called to ask about it and they scheduled it the next morning.

Wonder when they were going to call if I hadn't called them first...

Oh, and have something ready to plug into the TV. The shipping guys MUST see video on the tv before they leave. DVD, Sat, cable, air... something. They're not very patient.
post #3028 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by sixfoot View Post

I know about these, I just wish I could ALWAYS watch 100% of my screen regardless of the ratio. I wish Samsung had figured out a way to zoom on a 2.35:1 without distortion - I do not care if some of the sides or top & bottom are cut off.

How do Movie Theaters get it right every time? Don't they always use 100% of the screen?

Think about what you said.

It's more important to you to see 100% of your screen, rather than watching 100% of the movie ('...don't care if some is cut off...').

Why? The screen is just a screen (plastic or glass).

The movie is what you are watching.
post #3029 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by donb1948 View Post

No. they use a constant height rig and use curtains or something similar to mask or uncover the sides of the screen as needed. (Or, rather, that's what I was told.)

Yup, if you watch the side curtains at the movie theater, you can see them move in and out when changing aspect ratios. High-end home theaters with front projectors can do the same thing.
post #3030 of 15631
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtw4991 View Post

If online, who would you recommend other than Amazon? Thanks.

Crutchfield, for one. If you are in a state where Amazon charges sales tax, then Crutch could be cheaper; that was the case for me.
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