2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 299

Indeed. I have the 67A750, my brother the Sony SXRD. I've seen his. There is no comparison. Even my parents, when seeing his TV, tell me that mine blows away my brother's, who went with Sony because of its name (though he'll never admit it).

Alright, here's the latest as of 04/19/2009.
BE WARNED, YOU ARE ENTERING THE SERVICE MENU!

All setting changes since my initial post will have an asterisk(*) next to them.

Be sure to write down all settings that you are changing BEFORE you do this!

IMPORTANT! DO NOT CURSOR LEFT TO SCROLL THROUGH THE MENU LISTINGS, CURSOR UP/DOWN ONLY! YOU MAY ACTIVATE

SOMETHING YOU DIDN'T INTEND TO.

Get into the Service Menu. Hit MUTE,1,8,2,POWER (TV must be off first)

Cursor down to CCA menu, cursor right to select it.
Turn off CCA (Cursor right on the CCA On item to select it, then cursor right/left to toggle state).
Hit Menu button to jump back to CCA menu.
Plug these values (CCA Menu values) into CCA (cursor down to selection, cursor RIGHT on item, cursor LEFT/RIGHT to change

numbers, then cursor down to get to next item to change).

Turn on CCA by cursoring RIGHT on CCA Control. Then cursor RIGHT and wait for the ON to appear in menu.

Hitting MENU once will back you out to the CCA menu, then you can select the next item, OR, you can cursor down to get

the next adjustment item.

Note: If for some reason the CCA menu letters turn all strange in color(like BLUE), turn CCA off and put back in your

old settings, then turn CCA back on. You won't be able to go any further with these CCA adjustments.

CCA Menu

Rx 699

Ry 299 *

RY 90.2

Gx 196 *

Gy 724 *

GY 282.5 *

Bx 136 *

By 51 *

BY 29.1 *

(WARM2)DW-X 312 *

(WARM2)DW-Y 329 *

Perform WB Spread (cursor right on WB Spread, then cursor right again, wait for OK to appear).

Hit the MENU button until you are back at the Main Menu.
Cursor down to the Desaturation menu. Cursor RIGHT to select it.

Enter the settings below with a CURSOR RIGHT on the item, then using cursor LEFT/RIGHT to adjust.

Desaturation Menu (sRGB items only)

(sRGB)Red-x 642 *

(sRGB)Red-y 330 *

(sRGB)Green-x 296

(sRGB)Green-y 600 *

(sRGB)Blue-x 149 *

(sRGB)Blue-y 58 *

(sRGB)Cyan-x 220 *

(sRGB)Cyan-y 327 *

(sRGB)Magenta-x 316 *

(sRGB)Magenta-y 151 *

(sRGB)Yellow-x 459 *

(sRGB)Yellow-y 579 *

Toggle Desaturation control off and on.

Hit the MENU button until you are back at the Main Menu.
Go to Cinema CCA menu and enter these settings using the Cursor right to select, LEFT/RIGHT to change.
Hitting MENU once will back you out to the Cinema CCA menu, then you can select the next item, OR, you can cursor down to get

the next adjustment item.

Cinema CCA

Warm2 DWhiteX 307 *

Warm2 DWhitey 328 *

Hit the MENU button until you are back at the Main Menu.
Go to WB Menu and enter these
WB Menu Settings for Movie Mode

(M)R_offset 513 *

(M)G_offset 513 *

(M)B_offset 514 *

(M)R_Gain 512

(M)G_Gain 513 *

(M)B_Gain 512

Left this item in for first timers.
Hit the MENU button until you are back at the Main Menu.
Cursor DOWN to the DDP3021 menu.
Cursor RIGHT to select it.
Cursor DOWN to GAMMA.
Cursor RIGHT to select GAMMA.
Cursor RIGHT/LEFT to change it to (0)Film.

If you had OVERLAP at 0%, change it back
Hit the Menu button once.
Cursor DOWN to OVERLAP
Cursor RIGHT to select.
Cursor LEFT/RIGHT to change OVERLAP to 15%


Left this item in for first timers.
Hit the MENU button until you are back at the Main Menu.
Cursor down to the SP Actuator Menu
Cursor RIGHT to select.
Cursor Down to DB on/off.
Cursor RIGHT to select.
Cursor LEFT/RIGHT to change to OFF.


Hit the MENU button until you get back to Main Menu area.

Power the TV off. I usually wait about 30 seconds, then power the TV back on.

Go to each input, and toggle through the modes.. Movie,Standard,Dynamic. Then stay at Movie. You can start with my settings

and adjust as you want. Though changing Contrast and Brightness too much can cause the Grayscale to shift.

If everything looks good, you can go back into the CCA menu and perform another WB Spread to push it out to all the other

inputs.

These are my current settings for my Satellite box(Dish VIP-722) and Panasonic Blu-Ray.


User Menus

Panasonic BluRay

INPUT: HDMI2-BluRay
Mode-MOVIE
Contrast-75
Brightness-44 *
Color-45 *
TINT-50
SHARPNESS-20

DETAILED SETTINGS:
Black Adjust:Off
Dynamic Contrast: Off
LED Control: Low
Gamma:0
White Balance:0
Fleshtone:0
Edge Enhancement: Off
xvYCC:Off

PICTURE OPTIONS:
Color Tone: Warm2
Size: Just Scan
Digital Noise Reduction: Off
DNIe: N/A
HDMI Black Level: Normal(not adjustable with my Blu-Ray)
Film Mode: Auto
Color Gamut: sRGB

Dish VIP-722 DVR

INPUT: HDMI1-DISH
Mode-MOVIE
Contrast-75
Brightness-44 *
Color-45 *
TINT-50
SHARPNESS-20

DETAILED SETTINGS:
Black Adjust:Off
Dynamic Contrast: Off
LED Control: Low
Gamma:0
White Balance:0
Fleshtone:0
Edge Enhancement: Off
xvYCC:Off

PICTURE OPTIONS:
Color Tone: Warm2
Size: Just Scan
Digital Noise Reduction: Low
DNIe: N/A
HDMI Black Level: Low
Film Mode: Auto
Color Gamut: sRGB


So far the settings have worked very well for the HL61A750 users, and some mixed results with the 67" version.

Even though I initially set brightness up for 42, anywhere up to 50 will still be good, with the minimal black crush from 45

to 50.

Graphs
Grayscale:


Gamut:

Thanks Lee!

It's even worse on the inside of a CRT RPTV when you smoke around it.

Well, maybe he's biased, who knows. I know he has a 60" Pioneer Elite Kuro and an SXRD front projector VPL-VW200.

But I was more interested in the part about the color of the LEDs changing over time.

Looks like it's probably BS. Check out this thread but especially Post #4 where info directly froom the LED manufacturer is quoted: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1111759

Lee...my god that helped. I know my settings would be slightly different than yours if properly calibrated, but wow...the black level alone is much better.

Were you using a gamma of -2 at one time?

BTW, I followed the main A3000 thread from the time it was introduced until just after Sony announced that it was discontinuing the model. During that time, the debate raged as to whether Sony used 5:5 "pull down" to show 24p material at 120 hz. No one was ever able to get a definitive respnse from anyone at Sony as to what was used. The concensus at the time I stopped following it was that the A3000 did not use 5:5. FWIW.

and...and....lets not forget the sony DOES NOT come in a 67"...btw..i own an sxrd 60" for the bedroom...i wish i had an 61a750 instead...i enjoy watching my 67 much more in my main room

I too have a 60A3000 and the 67A750 and I have to say the dark details on the SXRD is superior to the A750.
But the SXRD does seem to have a overall brighter disposition to it and the motion artifacts that plaque it during panning is very noticeable.

Here is my status:

Rebate Details

Tracking No: ########
Date Posted: 2/19/2009 1:36:00 PM
Date Processed:
Date Shipped:

Your JANUARY NFLSHOP.COM OFFER offer was received on 2/19/2009

Yes I was. I've got to watch some more to see if I like it at 0, even though it meets the 2.2 average gamma level that is recommended.

I added in my note that once you are done and it works on the first input, go back into the CCA menu and perform another WB Spread to push it out to the rest of the inputs.

For those of you who go into the service menu often, I'll write up the procedure to enable keeping your Movie Mode settings when you exit the service menu, if anyone is interested.

I also have the DB=Off and the DB Aperture closed within the service menu on my set.

I'll check back on my settings after another couple hundred hours to answer that question.

This was the last response I got from the LED sales guy.

There are no phosphors in our devices, thus negating claims as described. *We just use separate red, green and blue LEDs to get the color desired, and Samsung deals with the color balance and combination aspects. *LEDs do move a bit over time, but long term aging tests do show very stable performance. **We cannot comment on the TV set details as we do not have expertise in this area.

I noticed that and did it as well.

Did you do anything in the "Expert Setting" menu?

I have an interesting opportunity because of Crutchfield's terrific customer service. My set has some moderate geometry and convergence errors. I contacted Crutchfield a few weeks ago and told them I had some concerns about these errors. At that time they had just released the last few leftover sets for sale. I let them know that I was afraid to exchange the set because I knew there was a possibility that the replacement could be even worse. Crutchfield offered to send me another unit as long as I paid for it upfront. They are letting me compare the 2 units, and then return the one I don't want to keep. They are even paying for the return shipping. I have nothing to loose. They are a great company and I will continue to buy from them whenever possible. I don't think there are too many businesses that would be that flexible to satisfy a customer.

Hi all,

I couldnt find the answers I needed in the gigantic thread so Im trying on my own. Just 2 quick questions....

1) Recently picked up my HL67A750 and love it, however, iam wondering if I should download the Firmware and load to the TV even though i havent come across anything major?

2) Guess this goes hand in hand with the above, but when my screen goes to black in between shows and comercials I can see a faint rolling effect on the screen....is this something Firmware can fix...anything i should worry about or is this normal for these tv's??

Thanks for all replies.

you didnt do much searching if you cant find anything about upgrading firmware..........

what firmware do you have?
is it newer than what is on line?

if it is newer leave it alone!

Im super new to this....so sorry. Im not sure what Firmware i have. How do I find this??

Does anyone know if there is a differnce between the 61A750 service manual and the 67A750? I know that the manuals come specifcally saying either one or the other not both.

Wow looks like a few people were up burning the midnight oil. Thank you Lee for sharing your calibration settings. I know you spent many hours to come to these numbers and it is extremely generous of you to provide cliff notes to those interested. I tip my fitted cap to you. I will input these values later and see what comes of it. I realize it may not have the same impact as it did with yours, which is what your calibration is based on. It will definitely be interesting to see the results. Once again, thank you for your sharing of valued information, you are tops in my book.

Cheers

Has Samsung's position on firmware updates changed?

Last I read, they say to not update firmware unless instructed by their tech people to fix a specific problem on your set.

I put his settings to use just to see how things would change. I thought my previous settings were fairly close to being accurate, but I was wrong. While I can't measure Lee's SM settings on my display...they appear to be much more accurate to me. It was night and day. I actually had to allow my eyes to adjust for a moment. I also used his changes for black level performance at the same time and it was a dramatic improvement.

I would love to fine tune them with the proper equipment or pay for a professional calibration, but my wife would not be a happy camper.

Now, I'm just curious to hear if Lee has changed anything or has any input on the "Expert Setting" menu and such.

respectfully i'd have to disagree as the sxrd still does not do blacks as well as this set

These 2 are the only that I changed in the SM.

What a difference, I don't know how to explain what I'm seeing now; almost 3D like or more detailed.

Thanks.

I did say that the SXRD is brighter overall (which means blacks are not that black)...but there is no denying that you can see more into the pictures with the SXRD (especially dark details).

As an example, look at chapter 3 of Casino Royal and see the tie that LeChiffe is wearing at the poker table on the boat. What color/type is it?
Also, see chp 9 of same movie and look at Vesper's hair in the bathroom scene and when the camera shoots her from the rear, can you see that she has highlights on her hair and can you see the detail of that and not just one blob of black?

Did you implement his setting in the Service Menu as well as in the User menus?

I wonder what I'll be losing by using his User settings but not the Service Menu settings. I am reasonably happy with my picture and don't want to risk messing around in the Service Menu.

I did both. I was already using an older version of his user setting however. I just changed a few things that had been updated.

+1

Not to mention the money he's invested in the calibration equipment which many of us have benefited from. This thread has without a doubt been greatly influenced by Lee's knowledge and generosity. Thanks again Lee!

sounds like you have some adjusting to do

Yes I too saw good improvements. It was very good of Lee to share his settings for they got me closer to what I was looking for which was: better shadow detail, good color, and skintones. I actually turned down SB gain back to 0. The only user menu changes I did were defaulted to movie mode,just scan and turn off the DNR. I stuck with my service menu settings for sub brightness and subcontrast as you can fine tune it better in the service menu. They are located in the WB portion of the service menu(remember to switch to movie mode) and are set at: Sub brightness 127 and subcontrast 143. These will be the default values in the user menu and no change is needed FWIW.

Overall I am very pleased with these results. I couldn't have achieved this without Lee's findings. He should definitely write the guide for this procedure so others can benefit from it. Aces man.

Cheers