2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 302

So does any one have any suggestions for the bleeding of bright whites on to the top black bar of a 2:35.1 movie? I mean this doesn't degrade my picture by any means but is it a problem indicative of serious issues with the set? Anyone?

Cheers

Ho do you guys locate a professional calibrator in your city who has experience/knowledge specifically for the HL6xA750?

I don't want him to be thumbing through the service manual and trying to figure out things for the 1st time! It sounds complicated reading about all this.

And even I can use the User menus with a test pattern. So how do I find out about the Samsung DLP experts in my area?

Here's one example: http://www.avical.com/tours.html

That picture isn't of a 67A750 - the bezel at the bottom isn't glossy, and it looks too large. Maybe an HLT model?

Guess it is just a quirk with the set. Oh well the picture is good to go. I will live with it. I see a few others in this thread have the issue too. Oh well nothing perfect. The show must go on for me.

Cheers

I have the same problem with mine. The tv is 7 weeks old now and I still smell it somewhat, but it has dissipated to some extent. IF yours is real strong maybe you should call samsung. Something is running very hot inside. Its not good that's for sure. Make sure you buy an extended warranty!!!

They are showing the wrong pic of the tv, if u watch the video or read the ad it does say hl67a750. It was the right tv last night on their show as well. I guess they sell stuff that is going out of production and tell people its new stuff.

Apparently, it's *NEW* to them at shopnbc!

Ok, it has been addressed to me that some would like to know what I have done to speed up switched input delays and power on to video.

I have been through the ringer with Harmony and ended up going around the remotes limitation of not allowing the user to disable automatic input selection when powering on the Samsung TV as it takes extra time and as if one did not notice, the tv doing another detection of the input.

I found that HDMI inputs are set to auto detect and switch without any need of remote control to set inputs, though it slows down the time to get a full picture or gives some delay when switching from on input to another.

Another delay is set to blank and mute for a predetermined time interval, every time you switch any input.

Combined will delay up to 5 seconds on power on and 2 seconds or more on input switching. I will address delay times and settings further on.

To elimintate as much delay as possible, the TV must be powered on first as it takes up to 8 seconds to get passed the initial internal tests and power on the LED display.

To keep the Harmony remote from selecting an input every time I power on the tv (Samsung TV remembers the last connection) I manually changed the TV to a monitor and manually learned the power on button and nothing more.

Since I have Directv, the receiver can be put in standby and powered on soon after TV is powered on, or may be left on as the only delay would be from the TV.

Also to keep the blasted input information OSD from popping up when switching channels I setup the receiver's HDMI settings:

Native set to On
Screen Format to Pillar Box
Bar Color to Black
TV Ratio Widedscreen 16:9
Allow only 1080i and 1080p resolutions

This will upconvert all sources to 1080i unless VOD has 1080p which will then use 1080p to playback VOD files.

Note: The Directv receiver resets the HDMI output when connection is lost... so the best way to keep delay time to a minimum is connect the receiver to an AVR as it may keep HDMI connection established.

Now to understand and set the TV's service menu to speed up the TV's delays.

Usually all devices have a preset delay to keep unwanted pops and possible corrupted signals when powered on or switched.

Most default 3 seconds and some like the Samsung TV can be service adjusted.

Here are some definitions to understand...

Mute Time: Audio and/or Video will be muted for a time period (100ms = 1/10 of a second).

Auto Power: Will allow devices to power on when plugged in or power is restored.

HDMI Hot Plug: Will plug and play HDMI devices, allowing to auto switch active HDMI connections and use AnyNet+. Like all Plug and Play devices, it will add time to aquire and link.

HDMI Muting: When switching inputs, muting the connection until handshake is aquired or until the delay time has expired. (100ms = 1/10th of a second).

By disabling HDMI Hot Plug, HDMI connection linkup speeds speed up but do not allow for automatic switching from one HDMI device to another.

With all this information you can deturmine the best way to power on and manually set delay time adjustments to meet your needs within your devices menu's.

I thought I would post my original SM settings compaired to lee's calibraited settings so people can compare to their changes...

my original..... Lee's
Rx 705 699
Ry 294 300
RY 118.9 84

Gx 180 191
Gy 738 749
GY 335.4 243.1

Bx 142 135
By 38 45
BY 28.8 22.8

sRGB RED-x 640 643
sRGB RED-y 330 327
sRGB GRN-x 300 296
sRGB GRN-y 600 593
sRGB BLU-x 150 150
sRGB BLU-y 60 56
sRGB CYN-x 222 222
sRGB CYN-y 339 326
sRGB MAG-x 300 321
sRGB MAG-y 127 152
sRGB YEL-x 419 424
sRGB YEL-y 505 517

Warm2 DWhiteX 313 311
Warm2 DWhitey 329 327

R offset 517 517
G offset 512 515
B offset 517 517

R Gain 512 512
G Gain 512 512
B Gain 512 512

This is one of my to-do's. Though it was far easier to perform on my CRT RPTV. Samsung really buried the control. Too bad they just didn't motorize the focus control so we could use the service menu.

Apparently, your set is experiencing a literal 'burn-in' phase. I cannot recall any smell as strong as the one you are mentioning. There must be some coating somewhere that was not cured properly, probably near the LEDs or DLP panel, which generate the most heat.

[quote=gmb2428;15877279]I thought I would post my original SM settings compaired to lee's calibraited settings so people can compare to their changes...

Hi,

I question what Firmware you have... Lee and I have 1006.

Your defaults are close to mine but it seems obvious that there is a difference in factory calibration in the CCA menu. The few differences between yours and mine, half are closer to Lee's calibrated and the other half yours are closer.

This stand LX-6410 looks diff. thant that the one in the Ad..
Lol

[quote=Low Tech;15877419]
It came with 1004, and I upgraded it to 1005.3.

[quote=gmb2428;15877591]
Same here.

[quote=gmb2428;15877591]

Thanks... I wonder what the settings are for 1007 and I guess Lee does not have his original settings anymore for the 1006.

what happens if cca is left off?

It does not push the new settings... Rule of thumb turn off, change settings, turn back on.

and are desat and cca on from the factory or set to off?...i cant remember

Here is a list of DEFAULT calibration settings for firmwares: 1005, 1006 and 1007.

CCA Menu
F/W:1005 F/W:1006 F/W:1007

Rx 705 702 708
Ry 294 292 291
RY 118.9 80.0 112.0

Gx 180 173 173
Gy 738 731 734
GY 335.4 300.0 340.9

Bx 142 146 142
By 38 31 31
BY 28.8 25.0 23.0

Desaturation Menu
F/W:1005 F/W:1006 F/W:1007

sRGB RED-x 640 640 640
sRGB RED-y 330 330 330

sRGB GRN-x 300 300 300
sRGB GRN-y 600 600 600

sRGB BLU-x 150 150 150
sRGB BLU-y 60 60 60

sRGB CYN-x 222 222 222
sRGB CYN-y 339 339 339

sRGB MAG-x 300 300 300
sRGB MAG-y 127 127 127

sRGB YEL-x 419 419 419
sRGB YEL-y 505 505 505

WB Menu
F/W:1005 F/W:1006 F/W:1007

Warm2 DWhiteX 313 313 313
Warm2 DWhitey 329 329 329

R offset 517 512 517
G offset 512 512 512
B offset 517 512 517

R Gain 512 512 512
G Gain 512 512 512
B Gain 512 512 512

No, they should be on from the factory.

^^^nice post with those factory settings...only other question i have now is, how do i stop the new settings from going to every input?...i want to switch between the two inputs and see the difference

I think you skip the WB Spread step. If you did not make much adjustment to the factory settings, you will notice right away. Another is run the gray scale pattern in the Pattern Test. Greys will be grey once you setup the new settings. Mine had a slight blue tint.

Very interesting.... So Samsung is tweaking these settings in firmware updates. One would think they would have been able to get this right the first time given they have Scientist in their R&D departments who are experts on this subject... Guess not.

Like I said before there is 10% error with factory calibration, and it takes a good burn in to have all the electronics settle. So at the time of calibration things were in check but once you get the tv and run it for a period of time things change a we bit.

As for Firmware... the LED drive is controled by Firmware as the light pulses and drive current settings may be adjusted in newer revisions.

my 1006 fw had different factory settings than the ones you posted

I would like to try the new SM settings from Lee, but I really like the "normal" color tone and not the "warm2".

I may just go for it!

I did shut off DB Aperture and DB from the SP Actuator area of SM.

Im with you. Let me kn ow how it goes...

Post them... I think they should not be too far from the ones I listed. I think you may have missed my reply just above your question.