Zenith DTT901 - Page 60

Well, since the remote came out in Sept. 2004, and the LG LSS-3200A DirecTV receiver came out in Dec. 2003, and the DTT-900/901 can be controlled using an LG DirecTV receiver code, I'd say you have a shot.

I can't seem to find any older, LG DirecTV models, but if the 3200A came out a year later, the remote *could* be updated with that code. No guarantees, though.

It isn't an actual "LG"-labeled remote, and I know that it wasn't manufactured specifically for Zenith only, because I've seen it under at least one, other brand name (Philips, maybe? - so it might've been made by whoever manufactures Gemini). Maybe you could try to find out who actually manufactured the remote (might even say it on the back of the package), and call and ask them if it specifically has a code which will control the LG 3200A.

How much does the store want for the remote? I see that it's available new through Amazon for $30.

(edit: I just looked up the remote's manual online, and was able to check the code list. Unfortunately, there's nothing under "satellite" (cable, either) labeled "LG" under it. Nothing uder "Goldstar", either. But there are plenty of Zenith and Hughes codes. Up to you if you want to take a chance. Goldstar did acquire Zenith to form LG all the way back in 1995, so you might want to take that into account - although I don't know if it would necessarily mean anything. If anything, being the owners of both, I would figure they'd probably be more inclined to distinctly separate the brand names in the listings than anyone else. Actually, there doesn't seem to be any codes listed there under "LG", now that I look over the whole list closer.)

Well, I Actually don't work all that far from Ness. They only wanted $15 for it. I suppose I could do better online IF I can find one. On the other hand maybe I will just ask them what their return policy is. If they are willing to sell it to me with the understanding that I can return it if it doesn't work, then I might just try it.

Date of your original post was 05-06-11 - thirteen, almost 14 days ago...


Q: Did you buy the Zenith ZEN550 Whole House Remote Control, and does it work with the Zenith DTT901 cecb box?



.

Have not found any codes that work with this STB, contacted Insignia & they were clueless.

Rather than buy yet another Universal remote, I'll just put up with having amother remote lying around... I'm getting tired of this game!

Yes it's Summer!! & that means my house is above 65 degrees, & My 901 works great once again!

I'm really getting a lot of lousy reception this summer, ever since the trees got their leaves. Anybody else notice this issue? Any suggestions for a work-around to get a better picture? Moving the antenna doesn't make much diff. It's so bad I'm thinking about getting cable!

See this post:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post15440202

There's supposed to be a specific, LG DirecTV satellite box code that can control it.

All channels, specific ones? I have also noted this on certain stations (even my strongest being one of them). Is whats happening a really strong signal & then a sudden dropoff for a few seconds (& yes this can be annoying).

You might be getting interference from neighboring markets due to tropo ducting too that occurs during the summer months.

Please don't buy into cable... this is what 'they' want you to do, there are plans in place by congress currently (S.911) to reallocate the OTA spectrum to pay services.... we are slowlly losing the right to free TV!

Thanks I believe I tried all the Zenith Sat box codes unless there is a specific box to work with I don't believe I saw a LG sat box in my list but I'll recheck.
I have several uni remotes mostly from the early 2000's but also have an RCA 815 from 2006.

On a sad note my 1984 Zenith (SA1923W) passed away this AM, may had gotten a lightning strike last night but the STB is OK that was on the same outlet, perhaps it was it's time. (believe the Tube isn't firing up)

I transfered the STB to the 2005 Philips... the Zenith had a better picture, less grainy & truer color.

It's specifically under the LG brand name. It's a pretty old tuner by now, but I believe the code can only be found on certain remote models manufactured after 2006.

Sorry about the old Zenith. I had one a few years ago that I loved, also. We had some pretty bad lightning last here night, too (Chicago 'burbs). The power blinked out once, and then my DSL went out during the torrential downpour that followed. I unplugged everything I could, and listened to my RF scanner in the dark, and there was reportedly some pretty bad flooding all around here.

Last week I had a huge tree limb fall on the house from the derecho. Luckily no real damage (I unplugged everything during that, too).

All channels, on a random basis. It can go on for so long that I switch to another channel just to avoid it.

I usually unplug things too, though the Zenith is likely more durable than the LG 901 STB, seems like the HV is shot, no pop of audio (the degausser) when I hit the power, & no tube illumination, yet the channels can change. We had a power outage last week & the funny thing when there was a PF, the Zenith would default to channel 3, at a rather high volume... upon turning the power on it would start at 3 then the channels would sequentially climb untill a button was pressed. I unplugged it for several hours then plugged it in... now it sits at channel 3. As nice as the set still looks, it's not worth it... 27 years old its probably time to retire it...still had a beautiful picture & excellent black level.

Over a perod of a few years I've lost 2 VCR's (+ a VCR Tuner) & a microwave & all were on a surge suppressor circuits.

My current '95 32" sony has to warm about 4-7 minutes to get a picture, & the '05 Phillips always defaults to CC on (mostly during the summer months).

Then I still have a '78 13" RCA still with Mechanical Tuning ...

I'm going to check the RCA manual again, but thought I tried every box code on the RCA & my Direct TV (UEI) remote... the others are likely too old.

My dad has larger trees around his place & says he's prone to this, yet we are both in the fringes too. Is this more prone in windy conditions? He claimed it is. Like sudden short dropoffs in signal. Sometimes a slight tweaking of the rotor can fix it though all stations are within 3 degrees of each other too.

IMO the cable company is beaming malicous signals at the house to force non subscribers to get cable. I really don't think all the bugs are worked out of DTV yer... but then again I don't have the need for another $40/month bill.

What's your antenna situation?

I get stellar results with my attic antenna and the install beats the heck out of outdoor. Also no lightning issues. I can provide you more info if interested.

My condolences. Yeah I would think lightning would kill more then the HV.

I forgot would rain and lightning is like.

Hi Floyage,

I really don't get as good results out of my attic setup as I do from my outdoor, but true about the margin of safety on the lightning (the Zenith I just lost was on my attic antenna)... plus no weathering of the downleads.

If you have any tips please share. I had lost my channel 8 on my attic antenna when they installed freeway sound walls about 2 miles away last year, yet the roof antenna about 4 feet higher supplies a 85% signal on 8.

To start, my attic antenna was already installed when I bought the house and it had cedar shingles. It never had great reception and got worse with rain and until the roof dried off (wet wood roof). What kicked me in the rear to do something about it was when I got a stone-coated steel roof followed closely by the conversion to digital (adios reception!). Using AntennaWeb I learned the proper vectors and realized I could move the antenna to the gable side of the roof, the gable being fiberboard and vertical of course (rain!). The original mount had it pointing through the sloped part of the roof apparantly because they didn't use a long enough coax (it was so tight I could barely rotate the antenna - doh!).

Even an ordinary roof probably has more attenuation than most gables and some decking uses that infrared reflective material.

Also, in my case it worked better at a lower position in the attic. Maybe because of metal roof reflections. I also have a metal gable vent at the peak of the A-frame.

Now I have a friend who had horrible reception with rabbit ears in their townhome due to a small airport down the street. He had a big Yagi but said they wouldn't allow him to mount it outside (rental/HOA) so he mounted it sideways on his living room wall. Worked way better but not great and they labeled it modern wall art - . Coming down though, daughter got a good job and pitched in with a DISH bundle (she needed the internet so it somehow worked out that way).

I have a black asphalt roof over plywood, with insufficent ventilation (152 F in the summer), I keep the yagi hanging just above the floor, the Low VHF elements have been broken though not needed anymore in my area, my lowest channel would be 8 with a LP on 7 (I can't recieve) & a LP 6 slated to sign on soon (Home Shopping).


I'm in a Cluster home also with a common outdoor antenna (for now) though the association allows Dishes to be mounted, though thought there was a law that allows antenna mounting for broadcast TV (with limits).

The younger folks have no problem reaching into deep pockets & becoming a captive customer to the very people that are slowly taking the right to free broadcast Television away!

http://www.tvtechnology.com/article/122850

Everything in the United States associated with Communications is a RIPOFF in comparison with the rest of the world!

I'm not certain but the broken elements might mess up the overall impedance.

Come to think of it I think you're right about the law, probably related to access to the emergency broadcast system.

[Multiquote either doesn't work for me or I don't know how to use it; nothing happens when I click on the button other than the button looking selected. ]

I had a couple of antennas that the Low VHF (long elements) had been bent or broken as they are more prone to it. We had a ch 3 & 5 here but those had moved to 15 & 17 respectively. I always thought if you terminated them (the broken elements off) correctly without shorting, you would be OK. The one antenna the boom snapped just forward of the mast leaving 1he needed channel 8 & 10 elements intact & seems to function OK in my dads attic as a backup.

I'm not sure how that law reads but as long as they supply me with a working common antenna I'm fine, though I'm likely the only one that uses it now. My neighbor was intimidated into getting cable right before the transition, in fact when the nanenna cable snapped I called my management company, they promptly told me to call my 'cable provider' I had to remind them they were to take care of that & if not I was going to install my own antenna (they had it fixed within a week). When the cable company comes in they imeadiately hack up all the antenna leads so you become their 'captive' customer for life. One thing I did check was the function of the antenna, that saves me $30-$40 a month (at least) & that equates to about $400-500/year.

They had recently changed bylaws to allow for dish mounting on roofs, so I can't see why an antenna would be any different.

Multiquote, Links, emocons don't work on this board for me unless I manually insert them.

Multiquote marks the selected messages to be quoted the next time you click the "Post Reply" button at the foot of the thread.

Links work fine for me, but I can't comment about emoticons, as I have never tried to use them here.

Hard to say, antannae are weird animals. I had a EE course in it decades ago, lots of bizarre e-mag equations that are unsolvable ('best fit' solutions). Hopefully it doesn't affect the other frequencies, you're experience with it appears promising. I can visualize a substitution experiment against a non-broken antenna but if you had one of those you probably wouldn't bother.

Yeah that's just BS, I'd get 'em for destruction of my property and make 'em replace it all. Good for you standing your ground. Now if you could bypass all the splitters of the people that switched to cable you'd have a pretty strong signal (of course they may use a distribution amp instead).

Good point, I see dishes and legacy antennas at my friend's townhouse buildings. Might be picking on him because he's a renter. There's also the issue of proper install, grounding, liability, etc.

Must be user-dependent as some of that other stuff works for me. We probably need to 'delete our cookies' (auto-generated reply solution I get from web folks whenever I have a site problem).

Awwwww I get it now, and an excellent example. Thanks!

I was confusing it with breaking up quotes of a single post and just discovered I need to use the Wrap function.

- Learning Every Day Floydage

$43 for the power supply & flyback (+ astronomical shipping charges) & that is just a guess of what is wrong though the low voltage apparently is still working.

I have a like new JCV VCR here that took a hit several years back, the way the PS is situated it's impossible without total disassembly to even get at the components for test or evaluation.

Pretty much was high end too, & there is a spot on the board for a MOV that was not placed, probably to save $1.00 or less in production costs.

Bismarck, if you think any of it is worth it you could keep an eye on Craigslist or the like for cheap used stuff to cannibalize for parts. CL even has a free section but folks are usually much less descriptive about what they're giving away. Many broken VCRs are mechanical problems or a bad head which would work in your favor. A buddy of mine that works at an electronics distributor gave me two VCRs that are like new, customer returns where the cassette mechanisms are all mangled up (I suspect stuck tapes and impatient removal of the tapes).

That's sad about the unplaced MOV, I'd think better of a high-end device.

If you have a lot of lightning problems you might consider one of those fancier power strips that come with money guarantee on your devices that are plugged into them.

VCR's are more mechanical than electronics, & really are designed to be thrown out & not to be repaired. The supply in this case is buried under the transport (meaning the entire transport likely must be removed from the machine... good luck trying to re-align it. Infortunately I'm one of those that will never go over to a pay per month DVR or such I'll just do without. I'm just time shifting old movies of of This! & Antenna right now what I have archived on VHS is mostly been replaced by a DVD with a few exceptions. I happen to catch my uncles estate before the Goodwill truck arrived & picked up another gently used JVC (lower model) at the thrift store, I just hate to pitch that one in the rubbish when likely it's a 30 cent part that is likely blown (resistor or diode), though it's completely dead beyond the 120 & the few parts I can get at to measure. (the fuse was popped too, I was hoping was the fix.)

I'm currently looking for an older 2554 Wall Phone in nice shape for the kitchen, though hard to determine actually what you are getting over the internet. I really hate this cheap stuff they are making now, if worse comes to worse I'll have to go with the Cortelco, though hard to know if you are actually buying a Cortelco or the Chinese knockoff untill you actually have it in your hands.

Actually believe the unplaced MOV was intentional, though on the circuit board with the symbol right across the incoming 120. This was the HR-VP638U, not the top but still on the higher end.

The second VCR (JVC I aquired at thrift store) had the tuner zapped, thought this happened right before the transisition, the AV inputs still work, just bring them from the 901 & viola!

Both of these were on Waber taps & strips. A warranty is only as good as the company that will back them up... ie: GM would not fix my GM transmission when under powertrain warranty (was not throwing codes, & refused to aknowlege a problem) now that it's out of warranty (even though there is a current recall for a related problem) they at least are admitting a related now problem but will not cover it.

Meaning anyone can warranty anything, but will they actually do anything if the unfortunate happens?

BTW LG has been great about replacing my 65 pint dehumidifier, in fact I'm on my 6th one in 5 years (will be out of warranty next week), will I buy another LG?? probably not as they are no longer writing 5 year warranties on Dehumidifiers, the longest one of mine lasted was just over 2 years, & many of the others did not make it a year in fact one DOA. If they once again did offer the 5 year warranty... maybe I would. ... aside from the 60 mile round trip (twice) for each unit that was a PITA they really worked well, when they were working of course.

My Sony mechanical section came out as an assembly no problem. Same with my little RCA TV/VCR of which the PCB was also the chassis for the TV. I think my other VCRs were like the Sony but I never took them that far apart so can't swear to it. You got a weird one or maybe older vintage than what I'm looking at. I do have an old and broken high-end Panasonic that may be like that, saving it for parts as they just replaced the head near the end of the warranty.


Yeah I've seen several free TVs on CL similar to that, hopeless folks broke the RF connectors (which I wouldn't use anyway).


I dunno but they sport some bodacious claims on the pricier strips from the likes of Monster, Philips, etc. Million dollar coverage and the like.


That sounds like more hassle than it's worth but I suspect you didn't have much choice as I don't know much about dehumidifiers. I've turned sick of my 5 yr warrantied shower head as the 3rd hose just blew in 3 yrs (the 1st two blew fast until I started babying 'em, high water pressure here). Hose looks real nice on the outside with a stainless steel braid but the hose inside must be crap. The connector on the spare fixed head broke the first time I used it too (cheap plastic glued to a nice brass piece - huh?!). The mfger has been real good about replacing them (phone call, no paper work, returns, etc.) but I think I'll see if BB&Beyond will give me an exchange, credit, etc.

My first stab at quote wrapping.

Actually half the PS is shielded & non accessable for test or minor part replacemment, & unfortunately the transport comes out in chunks..or it seems... every so often I open it up to look to see if I come up with any new Ideas, I'd say the vintage is late '90's.

Also have JVC HR-S5500 (real boat anchor from 1992) .. after sitting idle a few years it kept spitting the tape out... finally got it to work, though on occasion it would release the cassette but not the tape. should off that but again.. sigh

I also have an old Akai GX-270D (reel to reel) here too, as far as I know it still works, though I forgot how to thread it. (funny i could do that in my sleep once upon a time)


My Ollies Bargain outlet carries Monster brand Surge Protectors & Cables, has anyone ever been sucessful with a claim? The Wabers were old but still had the surge protect lamp illuminated. Likely all made in China too though I doubt if any of these companies would honor a claim unless you go to that super High End product.


You might try the place of purchase especially if you did not deface or abuse the product. I used to sell Cameras, & you wouldn't believe the abused product customers wanted to return.

Home Depot graciously took the first 2 Dehumidifiers back in exchange, the other 3 I had to deal with repair center as the modelk was no longer carried by them.... still under warranty till the 6th, keeping my fingers crossed!

Not as old as I thought, maybe this version of high-end makes it a unique design. I think my Panasonic was when 4 head hi-fi stereo first hit the shelves, the audiophile in me just had to splurge $400 (on sale too!) to use it like a reel to reel in addition to video.


I don't know but I don't see how these major brands could market them this way for so many years and not do so. Of course there's always fine print, proper procedure, etc. Web search or reviews might give the answer.


Yep, will do. I just don't know if 3 yrs into a 5 yr warranty is still retailer territory.


So you need it to break by the 6th since it seems inevitable it will break again. I was hoping that hose would blow before 5 yrs was up because of that other part breaking.

I wouldn't say so, though depends on the retailer & if the model is still carried, Home Depot always made me keep my reciept for the original dehumidifier after the exchanges.... the exchanges were a courtesy on their part.


It actually broke last week, about 3 weeks out of warranty & less than 4 months in service ... ran continous for 11 hours & the fan seemed to overheat & I had to shut it... only about 3/4 of the tank full so it's not working efficently either.

I've been running it at a 2hr on 2hr off cycle & keeping an eye on it.

Would I buy another LG Dehumidifier with a 5 year warrantyr?? Possibly, LG had been very good on replacing these units (Home Depot exchanged the first 2). However LG no longer offers 5 year warranties on these.. only 1 year now.

Would I buy a LG Dehumidifier (or Goldstar, Zenith made by LG) with a 1 year warranty?

ABSOLUTELY NOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!