The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 336

Game mode does not kill the plasma. If your plasma died from that, it was defective.

I've played a lot of games on my Kuro since I got it and watched 3d animation in game mode for several movies worth of time and mine is still going strong.

I left my set on 24/7 for several days while I was using the torch settings in sport mode for the break in images.. using your tv for long hours should not damage or kill the set.

that's what i thought as well. i too have run the set at one point 3 straight days during breakin. no sweat. it's just highly suspect that game mode is not recommended for 2+ hours per manufacturer, and this happens to me the same day the kids played on game mode beyond that suggested limit.

in any case, i hope this is isolated, as i'd hate to see others go through service calls. hopefully all works out, as these tvs output the best pq i've seen in a while

cheers

I've definitely exceeded that limit myself on several occasions. It would be helpful if they specified why in particular.. but that whole section seems to be devoted to preserving the quality of the image.

Sounds like they are warning against burn-in.. maybe they feel that games are most likely to cause it.. it sounds like they are advising against playing games for more than 2 hours straight, not necessarily not to use game mode for 2+ hours.

I have my Media Center PC hooked up to a 6020 Kuro via HDMI (input 6).

I use the screen size button on the remote to set "dot by dot".

However I'm finding each time I turn the set on its re-set to "auto" or "full" and the Windows desktop is stretched off screen etc. I have to manually cycle back to "dot by dot"

Anyway to get this to stick?

I don't know what's more unlikely, selling a used 5020 or finding one of those monitors J/K

Good luck, don't forget to compare the 500M when/if you get it.

What is so unlikely about finding someone that that sells the 500M/600M monitors? I have seen more than just a few places that sell them now.

Could you please post a link to the service manual? I believe someone has, but the links were bad and he never corrected them. Thanks.

Of course, but he wasn't asking about Blu-Ray. Only SD Vs HD.

Which online merchant are you talking about?

FYI, see this post about not using a speaker. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post16002441

Wall mounts are scams. Be careful of that. While you may indeed need a special type, they are NOT that expensive. I've seen them for the 5020 for ~$50. Since I've decided I'm not going to wall mount mine, I didn't look very much.

As to how much it affects them, I can't say. But all the manual says is "Mode 1" consumes less power than OFF and "Mode 2" consumes less power than Mode 1. Since activating it "decreases picture brightness and lowers power consumption", we can assume that Mode 2 affects the overall brightness more than Mode 1.

Does anyone know how Orbiter Mode 1 differs from Mode 2? Does Mode 2 just move the picture around more?

The manual states that when you activate the global screen protection function, that (among other things), it selects Side Mask detection mode 1. Why mode 1, because mode 1 only detects black side masks where mode 2 detects both black and illustrated side masks. I would think that having illustrated side masks present is a helluva lot better than black all the time! The illustrated side masks is more like having a part of the actual picture present in these areas.

The 600M's seem to be low in volume. I can no longer get them from Electrograph. I think I can still get 500M's though.

Basically, I want Pure mode and the Elite filter. I also like the thin form-factor.

- Rich

Mode 2 includes all screen sizes (including dot by dot). Mode 1 includes all screen sizes except dot by dot.

I use mode 1. The only time I use dot by dot is for Blu ray and there really is not a problem with static images during a movie.

Yeah I have seen that in the manual. But that can't be the only way they differ, can it? Otherwise why would there be two modes when mode 2 will do it on everything?

I noticed this while I was on my HTPC, on Mode 2 the whole screen would shift about 1/8", my HTPC is set at 1920x1080@24Hz. At first I freaked out and thought something was wrong with my GPU, but it turns out it was just the Orbiter doing its job.


I guess that when running in 1080, for the most part people demand pixel by pixel accuracy so Pioneer was smart enough to give people the option to leave the image alone. (Usually people that care about the technical details are a rather picky bunch )

My 6020 was delivered. ....The glass was cracked in both upper corners.

'Service' Manuals (as appose to User manuals or operating instructions) are typically not available for free.

This merchant sells the SM for $10 and I've always found him to be reliable.

A_C

I'm truly amazed at the number of 60" Kuro's that get delivered with cracked screens. Just from a sampling here in AVS, it looks like at least 10% get damaged in shipping. Unbelieveble... The loss to Pioneer must be substantial.

A_C

I think the feeling as that when using dot by dot, some people may want the purest picture possible without any type of processing, so they gave the option of having an orbiter setting that will bypass dot for dot.

edit: saw iatacs19 said the same thing.

So from that, it sounds like Mode 2 moves the picture around more than Mode 1. 1/8"??? It also sounds like Mode 2 is unusable, unless you want to watch the break-in images.

Yeah of that I am aware. But as I said, someone posted the URL for it here, but the URL became a bad link somehow (the forum corrupted it). If you got it from the link, then can you post the correct link?

Ok that makes sense. And would seem to imply that the Orbiter (at least mode 2) does indeed interfere with the PQ, contrary to what the manual says--"Orbiter automatically changes the position of the picture imperceptibly while the image is on screen."

Perhaps the mods broke the link because it's copyrighted material???

?

1/8" was just a rough estimate...

I will try to count the pixels next time I am using Vista on the HTPC.

Fate? After refusing my 6020 because of damage, I called a local supplier to ask once again to deal a little bit. This time I asked to talk to someone different. He couldn't get me a 6020 for the price I paid, but he can get me an Elite 60" for that price!!!. I'll just cancel my order for the 6020. ...I was just looking to get a free calibration out of him.

Buying a TV is EASY. You don't buy from ANYBODY who won't provide prompt replacements within at least the first 30 days. And you don't buy from any dealer that voids the factory warranty.

And you never, ever, never, ever pay for an extended warranty from some fly by night company that changes their name every year or two so they don't have to honor extended warranties they have previously sold. BUYING an extended warranty is EASY. Getting coverage if you need it is a WHOLE DIFFERENT STORY. And you have to believe that any outfit selling TVs without return privileges and without a factory warranty isn't going to be providing the world's most iron-clad/sure-thing extended warranty.

Just a few simple rules to keep yourself from doing something you'll regret.