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The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 337

post #10081 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint S. View Post

Ok that makes sense. And would seem to imply that the Orbiter (at least mode 2) does indeed interfere with the PQ, contrary to what the manual says--"Orbiter automatically changes the position of the picture imperceptibly while the image is on screen."

The Orbiter function has an affect on PQ, I confirmed this with test
patterns. With the Orbiter function engaged the picture is not as
sharp and you don't get full resolution. I used the Spears & Munsil
test disc that came with my Oppo BDP-83 for testing.

I turn it "OFF" and run the video pattern once or twice a week instead.

The only time I turn it "ON" is when I game.
post #10082 of 14721
Yesterday I posted the following: I did not install the TV's speaker. If you have a 5.1 speaker system the TV's speaker isn't necessary. I did connect an optical sound cable from the TV to the receiver for HMG sound through the TV's USB port.

Clint S responded: Careful of that. I don't know if this TV's amp will do it, but many amps will blow if you don't have any load (speakers) connected to them while it's trying to output power. If there's an option to turn them off without affecting audio to your receiver, then I'd do it.

The 5020 manual doesn't address this issue.

So the situation is that the 5020 speaker is not attached to the TV. All audio is routed through a Pioneer receiver. Since the 5020 can not produce audio by itself (no speaker) when I input content via the USB port on the TV (eg. an mpg) I can see the content but can't hear anything. I've solved this problem by connecting an optical cable from the TV to the receiver. When I do this the video and audio are good.

Clint S. is advising caution (as stated above). Does anyone know for sure (or think they know for sure) if this connection is putting the tv at risk?

For Clint S - I also had a great picture. After calibration it is noticeably better.

Thanks,
Keith
post #10083 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by stedmakr View Post

Buzz - upon receipt there was absolutely no buzz. After the 150 hour breakin and use for a month I have a buzz. Its noticable when there is a menu on the screen and no other noise coming from the TV. I can live with it.

Calibration - I calibrated the gray scale with control cal using D-Nice's settings. I don't think that you should have to calibrate a new $2000 TV. But I did and it makes a difference. The first thing I noticed was the whites were whiter. I purchased the $60 setup from Turbe. The purchase procedures with the "donation" process are awkward and the actual instructions leave something to be desired. If you chose to calibrate, suggest reading the Pioneer non-elite thread on the control cal site until you are comfortable. I still had to go through the calibration process twice to get it right. My experience is that the picture is noticeably better after calibration. Do it!

SD Viewing - Terrible until I took a recommendation from this board and changed from:
TIVOHD > HDMI > Receiver
to
TIVOHD > component > Receiver.
There was a very noticeable improvement in quality. I use HDMI from the receiver to the flat pannel.

I did not install the TV's speaker. If you have a 5.1 speaker system the TV's speaker isn't necessary. I did connect an optical sound cable from the TV to the receiver for HMG sound through the TV's USB port.

There are alot of comments about the TVs remote. I use the Harmony 880 and can control 90% of the commands from the TIVO, TV, and receiver.

The only other thing worth mentioning is that I also purchased a Pioneer VSX-03 at the same time I purchased the 5020. I have a good set of speakers and the sound is fantastic. I highly recommend the VSX-03 (the 01 is functionally almost identical).

I'm not happy with Pioneer's decision to stop plasma production. This may mean that we won't see further firmware updates or the potential to improve the HMG application. I am happy with the 5020 and its beautiful picture. Hopefully it will last at least half a dozen years.

Thanks for that review. It reinforces my thought to run SD with component cables. I meant to buy some but put it off. I think you'll easily get 6 years. And by then we'll all be freaking out becasue we have to buy LCD.
post #10084 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbe View Post





What's wrong with the step-by-step?

TURBE, did you ever tweak and post those specific instructions I e-mailed you? Or did you decide to just leave it the way it was? The way it was is very confusing and tedious. I had a hard time figuring out how to download the software and then how to get the profile. It really was not spelled out that clearly. Just my opinion, you need everything in one place.
post #10085 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by stedmakr View Post

Yesterday I posted the following: I did not install the TV's speaker. If you have a 5.1 speaker system the TV's speaker isn't necessary. I did connect an optical sound cable from the TV to the receiver for HMG sound through the TV's USB port.

Clint S responded: Careful of that. I don't know if this TV's amp will do it, but many amps will blow if you don't have any load (speakers) connected to them while it's trying to output power. If there's an option to turn them off without affecting audio to your receiver, then I'd do it.

The 5020 manual doesn't address this issue.

So the situation is that the 5020 speaker is not attached to the TV. All audio is routed through a Pioneer receiver. Since the 5020 can not produce audio by itself (no speaker) when I input content via the USB port on the TV (eg. an mpg) I can see the content but can't hear anything. I've solved this problem by connecting an optical cable from the TV to the receiver. When I do this the video and audio are good.

Clint S. is advising caution (as stated above). Does anyone know for sure (or think they know for sure) if this connection is putting the tv at risk?

For Clint S - I also had a great picture. After calibration it is noticeably better.

Thanks,
Keith

kind of confusing but if you are referring to connecting the optical output from the pioneer to your AVR then you should be fine. I don see how that can blow your avr or speakers or whatever. Maybe he was talking about connecting your avr to the pioneer speakers?
post #10086 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by KCinWhitby View Post

TURBE, did you ever tweak and post those specific instructions I e-mailed you? Or did you decide to just leave it the way it was? The way it was is very confusing and tedious. I had a hard time figuring out how to download the software and then how to get the profile. It really was not spelled out that clearly. Just my opinion, you need everything in one place.

I should be able to get it up today.. just been a little swamped as of late..
post #10087 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post

Either a 500M or 600M (If I can find one).

- Rich

Maybe a stupid question, but what is a 500M or 600M? Who makes it?
post #10088 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by KCinWhitby View Post

Maybe a stupid question, but what is a 500M or 600M? Who makes it?


The M's are the Pioneer non-Elite monitor line. They feature full adjustability plus Pure mode, unlike the non-Elite TV's. And they are going for some pretty outrageously low prices right now.
post #10089 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Blackburn View Post

HDTV via broadcast, cable, or satellite are actually QUITE poor compared to Blu-ray... they are roughly half-way between SD and Blu-ray. The problem is so bad, people are calling it HD-Lite. The problem is bandwidth and compression... even broadcast HDTV adds compression which is quite visible as block artifacts within the image. Broadcast has about half the bits per second of Blu-ray and very few cable or satellite channels match broadcast's HD bit rate. Cable and satellite end up quite often delivering the equivalent of 6-bit or 7-bit color when the source was originally 8-bits and 8-bits is BARELY enough to render images well (color-wise).

It is true that way too many "HD" channels pass off anything in 16:9 format as HD, including stretched 4:3 programming or DVD-res movies.

The review sample 111 model I had was lighter on the top, right side and bottom - easily noticeable. A spray-paint effect like the coating was thicker on the left and down the middle where black was noticeably blacker.


I appreciate the technical points made but personally, from my viewing experience, I find that too many Blu-Ray movies are not that great. The quality is often disappointing. After seeing some great Blu-Ray, watching a mediocre one really bothers me. I've seen many HD channels / shows that surpass some of the blu-rays I have seen. But it depends on the day for the show and channel. I've only bought about 15 blu-ray, watched about 30, and I would say half I would never buy, or should have not bought. Now the same argument goes from watching HD to watching SD. SD can be unwatchable after seeing a near perfect picture.

I just hope blu-ray gets to be a standard that can always be made fantastic.
post #10090 of 14721
Maybe someone can help me answer a minor question.

Just got the 5020 today. The panel came in good condition; no dead pixels. It most definitely does buzz...the brighter the color, the louder the buzz.

Anyway,I got the break in slide show and put it on my USB, plugged that in on the side and am now running through it. But between each slide, the screen goes blank for a few seconds and the buzzing stops, so I assume it "shuts off" before it puts up the next slide.

Is it supposed to do this? Or is there some setting I've missed? Or should I be using one of the screen wipes?

Thanks for replies in advance.
post #10091 of 14721
anyone have experience with an extended warranty from a company called
consumer priority service?
post #10092 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by petmic10 View Post

The Orbiter function has an affect on PQ, I confirmed this with test patterns. With the Orbiter function engaged the picture is not as sharp and you don't get full resolution. I used the Spears & Munsil test disc that came with my Oppo BDP-83 for testing.

I turn it "OFF" and run the video pattern once or twice a week instead.

The only time I turn it "ON" is when I game.

Thanks for the info.
post #10093 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Blackburn View Post

Buying a TV is EASY. You don't buy from ANYBODY who won't provide prompt replacements within at least the first 30 days. And you don't buy from any dealer that voids the factory warranty.

And you never, ever, never, ever pay for an extended warranty from some fly by night company that changes their name every year or two so they don't have to honor extended warranties they have previously sold. BUYING an extended warranty is EASY. Getting coverage if you need it is a WHOLE DIFFERENT STORY.

What are the best places to get an extended warranty? Which should be avoided? Thanks.
post #10094 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Hef View Post

Perhaps the mods broke the link because it's copyrighted material???

No it wasn't anything like that. The details are in the posts. Long URL's here are shown in the posts with ........ (periods) in them denoting truncation. But for some reason the actual URL's were like that with dots/periods in them. I would guess he did a "copy" and "paste" with them from another post, hence the appearance of the dots. But that doesn't explain why they first worked.
post #10095 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by stedmakr View Post

Yesterday I posted the following: I did not install the TV's speaker. If you have a 5.1 speaker system the TV's speaker isn't necessary. I did connect an optical sound cable from the TV to the receiver for HMG sound through the TV's USB port.

Clint S responded: Careful of that. I don't know if this TV's amp will do it, but many amps will blow if you don't have any load (speakers) connected to them while it's trying to output power. If there's an option to turn them off without affecting audio to your receiver, then I'd do it.

The 5020 manual doesn't address this issue.

So the situation is that the 5020 speaker is not attached to the TV. All audio is routed through a Pioneer receiver. Since the 5020 can not produce audio by itself (no speaker) when I input content via the USB port on the TV (eg. an mpg) I can see the content but can't hear anything. I've solved this problem by connecting an optical cable from the TV to the receiver. When I do this the video and audio are good.

Clint S. is advising caution (as stated above). Does anyone know for sure (or think they know for sure) if this connection is putting the tv at risk?

For Clint S - I also had a great picture. After calibration it is noticeably better.

Thanks,
Keith

I'd be interested in knowing as well. But the problem is somewhat cumulative. Not using any load at the outputs may not cause a problem until after a certain period of time, IF it all.

You're usually are not going to find that kind of warning in manuals because it's a rarity I would guess. But I have seen it in various amp and receiver manuals, many years ago. FAIK something may have been "changed" in the way they are made and it may no longer be a problem. Some kind of "protection circuit" would have had to have been added. Since the TV's amp is only 18wpc, this problem may not even affect low-powered amps.

Back in the 70's & 80's I had a couple of amps fry because of that, and I repaired a few as well (I used to be in the repair business). It's just not a gamble I'd be willing to take on my TV.

The TV speakers could be used as sort of a center channel speaker. I plan on using mine, but there should be something in the manual about if you can turn them off, or there may be an area in the audio settings where they or the audio can be turned off, without affecting audio output to external components.
post #10096 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandMasterJ View Post

Maybe someone can help me answer a minor question.

Just got the 5020 today. The panel came in good condition; no dead pixels. It most definitely does buzz...the brighter the color, the louder the buzz.

Anyway,I got the break in slide show and put it on my USB, plugged that in on the side and am now running through it. But between each slide, the screen goes blank for a few seconds and the buzzing stops, so I assume it "shuts off" before it puts up the next slide.

Is it supposed to do this? Or is there some setting I've missed? Or should I be using one of the screen wipes?

Thanks for replies in advance.


Congrats on the 5020! Once you have sound going the "buzz" should be a distant memory.

That's normal on the usb slide show for the break in. If you don't like it, the dvd will move from one slide to the next without obvious transition. Enjoy. Blue
post #10097 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandMasterJ View Post

Maybe someone can help me answer a minor question.

Just got the 5020 today. The panel came in good condition; no dead pixels. It most definitely does buzz...the brighter the color, the louder the buzz.

Anyway,I got the break in slide show and put it on my USB, plugged that in on the side and am now running through it. But between each slide, the screen goes blank for a few seconds and the buzzing stops, so I assume it "shuts off" before it puts up the next slide.

Is it supposed to do this? Or is there some setting I've missed? Or should I be using one of the screen wipes?

Thanks for replies in advance.

The black screens in between the slide show are normal. It just takes time for the TV to load the next image unfortunately.
post #10098 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandMasterJ View Post

Just got the 5020 today. The panel came in good condition; no dead pixels. It most definitely does buzz...the brighter the color, the louder the buzz.

Anyway,I got the break in slide show and put it on my USB, plugged that in on the side and am now running through it. But between each slide, the screen goes blank for a few seconds and the buzzing stops, so I assume it "shuts off" before it puts up the next slide.

Is it supposed to do this? Or is there some setting I've missed? Or should I be using one of the screen wipes?

Thanks for replies in advance.

Yeah the black delay is normal, but if you're also asking about the buzz; it stands to reason the buzz is less or gone during the black parts in between the images because the panel uses less power on dark content.
post #10099 of 14721
Just follow up to see if anyone has noticed 2 lines on their screen, I have a 5020FD. I see the lines when the set is off because it's easier to see the contrast.

At first I thought it was a scratch on the filter, but upon closer examination I saw that the lines were perfectly straight and stretched all the way from left to right. They are about 1 inch apart from each other and start about 1/3 of the way from the top of the screen.

I took 1 strand of my hair and lightly moved it over the line and it's physically there because the hair got caught whenever I went over the lines. It seems like a very slight indentation as if the bonded filter was joined at the seams.

It is almost invisible under normal conditions, you can only "feel" it with this "hair" test. OR if you look at your set directly under bright light from the bottom up.

It doesn't bother me, but I was just curious to see if this was something "normal" or if it was a defect on my specific set.

I will stop by Best Buy sometime this week and check for this since I can notice it easily now.
post #10100 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint S. View Post

What are the best places to get an extended warranty? ....

You really need to do some homework for any you would get involved with. I bought an extended auto warranty once, from a company called Warranty Gold that was a sponsor on a Jeep site. As it turned out, shortly after taking my money, they declared bankruptcy. I further learned that they were incorporated in the Caribbean, and there was no path to file for reimbursement. I'd sooner just pay for the thing via Amex, and get the factory warranty extended.
post #10101 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by KCinWhitby View Post

I appreciate the technical points made but personally, from my viewing experience, I find that too many Blu-Ray movies are not that great. The quality is often disappointing. After seeing some great Blu-Ray, watching a mediocre one really bothers me. I've seen many HD channels / shows that surpass some of the blu-rays I have seen. But it depends on the day for the show and channel. I've only bought about 15 blu-ray, watched about 30, and I would say half I would never buy, or should have not bought. Now the same argument goes from watching HD to watching SD. SD can be unwatchable after seeing a near perfect picture.

I just hope blu-ray gets to be a standard that can always be made fantastic.

I have had a PS3, for watching Blu-ray discs, and a Blockbuster subscription for about 9 months. In that time I have watched at least 150 BDs and have found them uniformly outstanding. I also watch a lot of HD on Cox OKC. While cable HD is adequate, even the best quality HD I have seen from cable has been clearly inferior to even the most mediocre BD. That's before you even consider the wonderful new high bitrate Codecs, which, so far are available only on disc. Nevertheless, I have bought very few BDs because renting them has seemed a far more cost effective way to go.

I agree that SD is pretty bad and the difference in PQ between SD and HD cable does seem to be dramatically greater than the difference between HD cable and BD.
post #10102 of 14721
Thanks for the [several] responses. Do the black "insert screens" for the break-in slide show impede the break-in process in any way?

I was aware of the buzz issue before purchasing the TV and it was one of my greater concerns due to sensitive hearing. I should make a point that the TV emits two types of noise: the buzzing when there is content displayed (this gets louder the whiter and brighter it is) and a consistent "whine" that is semi-high pitched, fairly quiet, and can only be heard from the rear of the panel.

I'll watch some full screen Planet Earth on Blu-ray tonight with the break-in settings to see how the buzz affects the actual viewing experience.

So far the TV sure looks pretty; can't wait to really play with it after it's all broken in!
post #10103 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by hwakin View Post

strange that you mention this GEE
i had my 5020 set to game mode, let the kids play wii the whole morning (prolly 3-4 hours), had lunch, started to watch transformers blu ray in the afternoon (by now the set had rested for at least 4 hours), then the set dies with 2 blinks of red led. see my previous post:



i browsed the user manual when i first set up the tv, but did not read the whole thing. why in the world would pioneer enable that mode in the first place if it risks damaging the unit?

grrrr........

that sucks man. hope it gets resolved. That would suck if game mode screws your panel up.

Does anyone actually know what game mode does? I was playing formula 1 on my ps3 last night with it off,an didn't a difference in game play.
post #10104 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint S. View Post

I'd be interested in knowing as well....

I think you may be mixing up the connections. The external speakers are powered by the internal amp, but the optical out wouldn't be using that. So, if you have no speakers attached, you're not involved with the internal amp.
post #10105 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by GEE 04 View Post

that sucks man. hope it gets resolved. That would suck if game mode screws your panel up.

Does anyone actually know what game mode does? I was playing formula 1 on my ps3 last night with it off,an didn't a difference in game play.

Game mode minimizes any processing done to the image (scaling, noise reduction, etc.). Feeding a 1080p signal should provide a laglass gameplay experience since no real process needs to be done. Anything lower res or interlaced will have a bit of delay, but not as much if it was in a non-game mode.


Does anyone know if the 5020 can pass through DD 5.1 from HDMI to it's optical out. I tried to set up my xbox this way, but the signal it passed was stereo and not 5.1. Is there a menu option I may have missed?
post #10106 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Hef View Post

I think you may be mixing up the connections. The external speakers are powered by the internal amp, but the optical out wouldn't be using that. So, if you have no speakers attached, you're not involved with the internal amp.

Jim is correct. The optical out will not be amplified.
post #10107 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by lunaticpuma View Post

...Does anyone know if the 5020 can pass through DD 5.1 from HDMI to it's optical out....

From page 111 of the manual:
The flat panel TV's digital audio output terminal (optical) can output Dolby Digital signals. Using an optical digital cable, connect an AV receiver to the digital audio output terminal (optical) on the rear of the flat panel TV. This connection allows audio such as from digital TV broadcasts to play back in high quality.
post #10108 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Hef View Post

From page 111 of the manual:
The flat panel TV's digital audio output terminal (optical) can output Dolby Digital signals. Using an optical digital cable, connect an AV receiver to the digital audio output terminal (optical) on the rear of the flat panel TV. This connection allows audio such as from digital TV broadcasts to play back in high quality.

I was able to get stereo through, but 5.1 wasn't coming through with discrete channels. I guess I'll just have to play with settings.
post #10109 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by lunaticpuma View Post

Game mode minimizes any processing done to the image (scaling, noise reduction, etc.). Feeding a 1080p signal should provide a laglass gameplay experience since no real process needs to be done. Anything lower res or interlaced will have a bit of delay, but not as much if it was in a non-game mode.


Does anyone know if the 5020 can pass through DD 5.1 from HDMI to it's optical out. I tried to set up my xbox this way, but the signal it passed was stereo and not 5.1. Is there a menu option I may have missed?

Thanks man

So is it safe to assume that as long as i don't notice any lag or it's minimal i can leave game mode turned off?
post #10110 of 14721
still trying to buy a 5020 but it sure isn't easy if you want to save $

finally found a authorized pioneer online dealer who is offering a good price.

their trying to sell me an amt warranty. i'm reluctant as most of these sets either operated properly from the start or are defective as soon as you set it up. but this is my first plasma and i'm really not sure whether i need any protection beyond the 1 year manufacturers warranty.

any suggestions knowledgable avs members?
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