The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 363

OMG, I think we've got the rudiments of a Palace revolt here...

For those of us Philistines who prefer Standard mode, it would be interesting to compare settings.

A_C

LOL, I figured I'd get some crap, but movie mode is way to flat looking for me...

Okay, I'm at Contrast 42, Brightness +3, Color +2, and Tint G1.

Standard
Contrast = 36
Brightness = +4
Color = +2
Tint = 0
Sharpness = -10
Movie mode = Standard
Orbiter = 2

I have had the 6020-FD since June and love it like a child. However, I plan to move locally in the near future (10 miles or so) and am wondering how do I go about transporting my TV? I've thrown out all the original boxes, and I'm guessing it's not exactly wise to just pull the TV out of my apartment and throw it in the back of a truck.

Any suggestions, folks? I don't want my baby to get hurt....

Also, looking in the future, if one is moving long distances, what's the best way to transport the TV? Thanks.

Use a good moving company with insurance. They should be able to crate it up for you.

Sorry I have a sort of "newbie" question or possibly a repeat question. I firmware upgraded the 6020 a few months back and I was wondering if my professional calibration (done last fall) was screwed up by the firmware upgrade? It seems that the colors are a little off.(especially the whites are a little yellower) It may all be in my head, anyway to tell or check?

I upgraded my firmware on my 5020 and my contral cal settings where still there afterwards

For you guys who prefer standard mode, you basically favor the cooler color (~8000k) and "pumped" contrast/gamma. Check out info here: http://kuro9g.blogspot.com/2008/10/5...mperature.html

Such mode can be pleasing for certain people or situations. But for truthful reproduction of original color and gamma (assuming production chain is accurate), movie mode is about the only choice for 5020/6020.

Just FYI... I am blessed this evening to have D-Nice calibrating our 5020FD, 500m and 600m and can see with only the 5020 complete the results are amazing... stay tuned.

Standard mode would not be so bad if they did not force the DRE option on, it makes bright scenes look really fake. The only modes I find useful on the 5020 are movie, game and PC with adjusted grayscale and an external VP for color saturation controls.

You guys can like whatever you want, but it's still wrong I'm guessing you love "custom" mode on your Panny too. It has a bunch of edge enhancement and an S shaped gamma just like the standard mode on the 5020.

Firstly, I love Movie Mode and had it professionally calibrated, using it all the time. At the same time if you are not a total "purist" in terms of accuracy to standards then you'll find Movie Mode is NOT the only "usable" mode on the Non-Elite Kuro. Learn how to use the basic picture controls and adjustments on your Kuro. They can be quite effective.

I posted here about adjusting the brighter modes on the Non-Elite Kuro.

You might also look into the hdmi-pc modes for even more choices in adjustibility.

It's a bit 'advanced' to use these modes because you need to make sure the color space is correct ("Auto" should usually work though) and also make some attempt to adjust the grayscale, brightness and contrast.

The reward is you can create and save your own color temp adjustments here and you get the sharpest fine detail level with this mode. With a little custom adjustment I've found PC modes to perform quite nicely on Sports offering a razor sharp look that is distinctly different from movie mode without being as high temp or using the extra video processing of the Video A/V modes.

I too, at first, felt the same way many of you do about movie mode. Then I found religion. The ControlCal software with D-Nice's offsets brought Movie mode to life to the point that I never use any other mode for any other content. You folks who prefer Standard mode....is your set calibrated...ControlCal or professionally? Just wondering.

I use movie mode for all movies and TV, but any games or sports I use game mode because it is a little cooler and brighter, has the least amount of picture enhancements on, even less than movie, and it has game mode for input lag...which basically equates to a placebo effect with online gaming. I always seem to do better on game mode

I tend to change modes for everything, depending what I am watching. Movie mode is for what some describe as critical viewing (Blu Ray) and most HD broadcasts. Sometimes the picture does seem flat or dull and I switch to Standard or even Game. I use SPORT mode for Hockey as it seems to provide the best picture for what I want to see.

The next question is normally, what settings are you using. Here are all of them but keep in mind I have used D-Nice offsets with ControlCal so settings may vary. I am also tweeking them now and then when I see others posted settings:

Movie
Contrast: 40
Brightness: 0
Color: +1
Tint: R1
Sharpness: -15
Pure Cinema: Off or Standard
Text: OFF
Power Save: OFF
Light Sensor: ON
Orbitor Mode: 1 or 2

Sport
Contrast: 40
Brightness: 0
Color: +1
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -15
Pure Cinema: Smooth
Text: OFF
Power Save: OFF
Light Sensor: ON
Orbitor Mode: 1 or 2

GAME (for TV use)
Contrast: 38
Brightness: 0
Color: +1
Tint: R1
Sharpness: -15
Pure Cinema: Off or Standard
Text: OFF
Power Save: OFF
Light Sensor: ON
Orbitor Mode: 1 or 2

STANDARD
Contrast: 40
Brightness: +1
Color: +1
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -15
Pure Cinema: Off or Standard
Text: OFF
Power Save: OFF
Light Sensor: ON
Orbitor Mode: 1 or 2

No, not yet, but I plan to have mine done at the end of this month. I'm going to go back and read Dahlism's adjustment process, and see how he describes that. In the meantime, I had eight other guys over to watch the B-Ball final game, and everyone of them told me that the picture quality of the Pioneer was the best they have ever seen...watched in Standard mode. Of course, we're not a bunch of "purists"!!! For all my DVD watching, I'm in movie mode, tweaked for my eye and viewing environment.

I'm agnostic, tried but never could get religioned properly. Guess my eyes are just not critical enough, have seen quite a few calibrated sets at friends' & clients' houses, but never acquired the correct appreciation for it.

I also don't have 20/10 vision, don't see bi, dse, blotches, nor do I see dead people, just what looks good to me.

My 5020 is ControlCAL'd using D-Nice's offsets. It greatly improved Movie mode, but still not as natural looking as Standard.

A_C

Philistines ?.... sounds cool....from 1 to another:

my pref is Performance for most daytime use.

Performance: Contrast: 38, Bright: 2. Color: -7, Tint: 0, Sharp: -15 (HDMI dvr)

Standard: Contrast: 38, Bright: 3. Color: -5, Tint: 0, Sharp: -10 (Component/SD/Tuner)

Movie: Contrast: 40, Bright: 3. Color: 0, Tint: G1, Sharp: +8.

Power save: Off, Light Sensor: Off.

SM: Before After
RH - 500 470
GH - 491 486
BH - 500 580
RL - 500 495
GL - 500 495
BL - 500 500


Hard to describe the difference but if you look at the Picture thread, Performance looks a lot like M5ster's pics while Movie has similar colors but not as clear or as bright. For comparison Pure on the 151 looked the same as his pics. Pure on the 111 better (as i'm sure his looks better in person).

This is just my own Plasma TV moving experience, so I don't speak for anyone else. I have moved my 2005 Philips 50" Ambilight twice in Ohio in my car. The first time from Cleveland to Toledo, straight up in the back of my Subaru Forrester, on the turnpike, then over railroad tracks. The second time from Toledo to Ashalnd. This time it was face up, flat in the back of my Subaru, over hills, over crooked railroad tracks. No problems. The moving companies basically want an additional $1000.00 to move it if you don't have the original box. I couldn't afford it. I gambled and won twice. You only have to move 10 miles. It's your decision, but this is my experiece. Good luck.

when i got my 50" box wouldn't fit into the van. Stand was already attached so i just took it out of the box & drove home w/ it standing up. i've done it twice now & no harm.

Now how can I be wrong if I enjoy watching my TV the way I like to? Now, I'd be wrong if I said standard mode is more accurate than movie mode. Which I obviously did not say. You go ahead and watch your TV the way you want, and I will obviously do the same.

That's also how I feel when I read that anything except Movie mode is "wrong", or anything that states you need to watch it "accurately". Every one's mileage may vary!

Let's also consider that there isn't universal agreement that the D65 color standard actually looks like real life. Which is perhaps why so many lay people find a slightly cooler (D75?) picture more accurate'.

I don't buy the typical explanation for this either; that people are conditioned' to prefer a bluer picture because of the way TV's are displayed in showrooms. The explanation AFAIC is much simpler; people compare what they see on their flat screen to what it looks like in the real world, and adjust their sets accordingly. It really is that simple.

A_C (Flame Shields Up!)

+1....

is there nothing sacred left ? .

+2....everyone's mileage will vary !

i recall many posts when these sets first came out about just switching to Movie & not change a thing since it was "perfect". then controlcal became available & more posts from same people popped up about how much "better" it was - so that perfect became "perfecter".

yep... slow day at work for me today.

A lot of that going around today.

almost made me teary eyed


from

http://hometheatermag.com/flat-panel...ma_hd_monitor/

Perhaps the other manufacturers will hire the engineers that created the Pioneer electronics. They have the knowledge. Doubtful that Pioneer would be able to sell the control configuration and it be easily applied to a different panel.