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The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 383

post #11461 of 14722
Quote:
Originally Posted by dponeill View Post

I just entered the final numbers that I wound up with when doing my 60hz calibration a couple of months ago. I then took measurements with my eye-one display 2LT and HCFR. The results were virtually identical. I then repeated the measurements with PC Off and PC Advanced with a 24P signal and both were so close that you would not be able to see the difference.

So it sounds like your original factory settings for 60hz and for 72 hz would have also been close to the same. Is my understanding correct?
post #11462 of 14722
Quote:
Originally Posted by KCinWhitby View Post

So it sounds like your original factory settings for 60hz and for 72 hz would have also been close to the same. Is my understanding correct?

I couldn't say that for sure. I never took any measurements at 72 hz. The only thing you could really infer from what I did is that if you set the gains in 60 hz and 72 hz the same, the greyscale should be the same. In other words, if you take your 60 hz numbers and enter them for the 72 hz mode the results should be virtually the same.
post #11463 of 14722
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkwong View Post

You can still use the up/down/left/right controls on the remote. When you do so, the SM text flashes for a second or two. That's just enough time for you to read it and see what's going on.

Thanks DKwong, Here is exaclty what I am doing and maybe you can point me to what I am missing.
1) Open ControlCal, load the profile for version 10
2) Press Calibration ON
3) Select Pattern 1, then press send, screen goes white
4) Select Frequency 5, Press Send. Screen is still white
5) A/V Selection: 3, Press Send, Screen Still White
6) Pure Cinema: 3, Press Send, SCreen Still White
7) Press Mute on Display until Panel Factory (+), screen comes back
8) Press Enter and up/down until "Raster Mask Setup"
9) Press Enter, and go to "A3W3/72VS" and screen goes white

Now from here how do I get those factory settings?

Two more questions for you or anyone that knows:

Once I have my original settings, and know the new values using the offsets, Can I simple do steps 1 - 6 above and also enter / send the offsets with the white screen?

Any value to sending it a blu ray signal with 24fps while doing this?

Thanks again,
post #11464 of 14722
Hi All:

I am looking to purchase a 6020. I live in Los Angeles. Probably purchase over the internet from authorzied dealer to keep costs down. Does anyone know a good reputable technician who can set up the set and calibrate? Can you give me a range of charge for this setup with calibration. Thanks very much!
post #11465 of 14722
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

To make any additional changes (RGB xy plots, gamma changes, additional menu items, additional A/V modes, etc) requires engineering commands. At this point it time, no one in this thread has access to those codes. You can play with those settings all day long, but they will not stick outside of the SM (been there, done that last year and was told they required engineering commands).

Dnice, with all due respect, I'm not sure if what you say is accurate. The service manual indicates that the RGB xy plots are saved in the same active u-comm and in the same factory mode as are the RGB white balance settings which we know can be changed and saved. Moreover, some of these settings such as gamma appear as though they can be changed without even accessing the "factory mode" but by straight RS232 commands or through a service remote control. But if a setting does require being in factory mode, then that can be accessed via one of two RS232 commands, FAY or PFY. It is my belief that nearly everything in the service manual can be adjusted and be made to stick or there wouldn't be any need for putting it in, and in the rare instances where a variable cannot be permanently changed it is duly noted in the manual.

Now I realize you've been told one thing, and this may or may not be true, but I still have my doubts as I see no reference to any special codes or keys in this manual. My work experience with industrial controls and having to troubleshoot a lot of automated industrial equipment by pouring through their manuals and program code tells me that once you have access to the firmware or software residing on a PLC or controller you generally have the ability to make the necessary changes. Basically, once you're in you can begin. The things that cannot be changed are the things to which there is no access whatsoever which is usually prohibited by codes, keys, or passwords, hence, you will never see the things you are prohibited to change in the first place. Granted, there are some things that cannot be done here... you mention additional menus, A/V mode, even ISF capability, and I concur that this is likely not even a remote possibility as there is absolutely no reference at all to any of that in the service manual. But I do believe that what can be accessed can be changed and preserved. Obviously, there is certainly some risk to fiddling around with any setting, but what can easily be done can usually be easily undone, too.

I've given the 200 page service manual a pretty thorough read several times now and from what I can tell there is no mention at all of any special commands and no mention that nothing can't stick. On the contrary, there are literally hundreds of RS232 commands and value setting ranges mentioned that can be effected via a service remote or the service connection and software like CC. Granted, this manual isn't a well written document in that there is very little to help one understand the technical jargon of TV repair, but my guess is that the intended audience already has a pretty thorough knowledge of what is being covered via training, experience, etc.

I guess what I'm saying with the above soliloquy is this... that to say with certainty that something cannot be done based on just the experience of one, is in my opinion a bit premature and many times proven false. How does that saying go, two heads are better than one. Well, there appears to be scores of heads on this board and I think that collectively we might still be able to uncover further calibration adjustment capabilities of the G9 NE Pioneer's.

Best Regards,

Cmart
post #11466 of 14722
You're going to want the set installed and then do a break in process. After you get a couple hundred hours on the panel, then you'll want a calibration.
post #11467 of 14722
so can u just plug in D-nice's offsets into advanced mode or is it going to require a separate calibration from that for off/standard?
post #11468 of 14722
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by abc123puck View Post

so can u just plug in D-nice's offsets into advanced mode or is it going to require a separate calibration from that for off/standard?

Unfortunately, it would have to be a separate calibration. I can do it for you the next time I'm in your area.... and no, it would not cost anywhere near the same as the first cal
post #11469 of 14722
Well, I had the pleasure of having D-Nice calibrate my 6020FD on Sunday. I waited a couple of days to post this as I wanted to make sure that my initial "wow" didn't wear off before sharing my experience (it didn't).

To start, D-Nice is one of the kindest most professional people that I have ever had the opportunity to meet. He was scheduled to arrive at 3:30 and actually called about 3:00 and said that he was going to be about 20 mins early if that was OK. I of course said yes and he arrived about 10 mins later. He never acted rushed and he gave off the impression that my calibration was the most important thing to him while he was in my home. He came in and sat down and discussed my viewing habits to ensure that he was going to give me exactly what I wanted. He presented a couple of options and talked through the pros and cons of each. In the end I had him calibrate movie mode with all Advance Cinema options (so that all are available with a calibrated picture).

He got everything set-up and then went through all the menus of my devices (the 6020, Denon 3808ci and PS3) to ensure that everything was set-up properly. He made a couple of adjustments and explained why he was changing the things he was changing. He then took his initial readings and talked me through the results of each of the charts and what they all mean. He never once made me feel uncomfortable asking questions (even when they were on the dumb side).

Next D-Nice then started working his magic. He was very methodical and it was obvious that he takes a great deal of pride in his work. He allowed me to sit right there and "stare over his shoulder" which was wonderful (hopefully this didn't bother him - if it did he didn't act like it at all). He continued to tell me why he was doing what he was doing and let me really watch him work through getting the picture as perfect as possible. He worked through all of the settings including setting up the advanced cinema settings and then went over the final results with me.

Finally he said, "let's see some content". He packed up his stuff while I viewed some live Dish Network content as well as some scenes from the Spiderman 3 Blu Ray. I have since watched a couple more blu rays as well as some television (including the Dish 1080p content of the month).

In summary I am nothing short of amazed at the difference the calibration made. To be clear I was previously using D-Nice's offsets (via controlcal) and the final difference is substantial (in both setting numbers and viewing pleasure). So any of you who think you are getting the most out of your display by just using offsets, time to pony up and do a real calibration. I assure you, that you will not be disappointed. I have attached my before and after reports below for anyone that wants to take a look.

 

Pioneer PDP-6020FD Pre Calibration Forum Report (Movie).pdf 204.7490234375k . file

 

Pioneer PDP-6020FD Post Calibration Forum Report (Movie).pdf 197.109375k . file
post #11470 of 14722
Quote:
Originally Posted by lakebum431 View Post

Well, I had the pleasure of having D-Nice calibrate my 6020FD on Sunday.

Thanks for your Report
post #11471 of 14722
Quote:
Originally Posted by lakebum431 View Post

Well, I had the pleasure of having D-Nice calibrate my 6020FD on Sunday.

Thanks for your calibration report. I've included it in the flat panel (Post#2) list that's linked at the bottom of my post.

Enjoy.
post #11472 of 14722
Quote:
Originally Posted by lakebum431 View Post

In summary I am nothing short of amazed at the difference the calibration made. To be clear I was previously using D-Nice's offsets (via controlcal) and the final difference is substantial (in both setting numbers and viewing pleasure). So any of you who think you are getting the most out of your display by just using offsets, time to pony up and do a real calibration. I assure you, that you will not be disappointed. I have attached my before and after reports below for anyone that wants to take a look.

I'm waiting for a calibrator in my area to be able to calibrate all modes for me at once. As soon as I know of one that will use the new version of ControlCal I may pull the trigger. Recently I have noticed that in alot of 1080i, HD content (As well 480i SD) that the details are slightly blurred. I am countering this with the sharpness set to around "0" and it seems to help. I find it is more my cable company as blu-ray content is still fantastic. And this is with D-Nice offsets with the old version of ControlCal.

In the meantime I'll figure out the missing pieces for me to use offsets to change the 72hz, and wait for a calibrator to let me know when they are ready.
post #11473 of 14722
Thread Starter 
Thank you for the kind words. I was my pleasure showing you how your panel arrived in its, now, calibrated state. Happy viewing
Quote:
Originally Posted by lakebum431 View Post

Well, I had the pleasure of having D-Nice calibrate my 6020FD on Sunday. I waited a couple of days to post this as I wanted to make sure that my initial "wow" didn't wear off before sharing my experience (it didn't).

To start, D-Nice is one of the kindest most professional people that I have ever had the opportunity to meet. He was scheduled to arrive at 3:30 and actually called about 3:00 and said that he was going to be about 20 mins early if that was OK. I of course said yes and he arrived about 10 mins later. He never acted rushed and he gave off the impression that my calibration was the most important thing to him while he was in my home. He came in and sat down and discussed my viewing habits to ensure that he was going to give me exactly what I wanted. He presented a couple of options and talked through the pros and cons of each. In the end I had him calibrate movie mode with all Advance Cinema options (so that all are available with a calibrated picture).

He got everything set-up and then went through all the menus of my devices (the 6020, Denon 3808ci and PS3) to ensure that everything was set-up properly. He made a couple of adjustments and explained why he was changing the things he was changing. He then took his initial readings and talked me through the results of each of the charts and what they all mean. He never once made me feel uncomfortable asking questions (even when they were on the dumb side).

Next D-Nice then started working his magic. He was very methodical and it was obvious that he takes a great deal of pride in his work. He allowed me to sit right there and "stare over his shoulder" which was wonderful (hopefully this didn't bother him - if it did he didn't act like it at all). He continued to tell me why he was doing what he was doing and let me really watch him work through getting the picture as perfect as possible. He worked through all of the settings including setting up the advanced cinema settings and then went over the final results with me.

Finally he said, "let's see some content". He packed up his stuff while I viewed some live Dish Network content as well as some scenes from the Spiderman 3 Blu Ray. I have since watched a couple more blu rays as well as some television (including the Dish 1080p content of the month).

In summary I am nothing short of amazed at the difference the calibration made. To be clear I was previously using D-Nice's offsets (via controlcal) and the final difference is substantial (in both setting numbers and viewing pleasure). So any of you who think you are getting the most out of your display by just using offsets, time to pony up and do a real calibration. I assure you, that you will not be disappointed. I have attached my before and after reports below for anyone that wants to take a look.
post #11474 of 14722
Quote:
Originally Posted by lakebum431 View Post

Well, I had the pleasure of having D-Nice calibrate my 6020FD on Sunday. I waited a couple of days to post this as I wanted to make sure that my initial "wow" didn't wear off before sharing my experience (it didn't).

To start, D-Nice is one of the kindest most professional people that I have ever had the opportunity to meet. He was scheduled to arrive at 3:30 and actually called about 3:00 and said that he was going to be about 20 mins early if that was OK. I of course said yes and he arrived about 10 mins later. He never acted rushed and he gave off the impression that my calibration was the most important thing to him while he was in my home. He came in and sat down and discussed my viewing habits to ensure that he was going to give me exactly what I wanted. He presented a couple of options and talked through the pros and cons of each. In the end I had him calibrate movie mode with all Advance Cinema options (so that all are available with a calibrated picture).

He got everything set-up and then went through all the menus of my devices (the 6020, Denon 3808ci and PS3) to ensure that everything was set-up properly. He made a couple of adjustments and explained why he was changing the things he was changing. He then took his initial readings and talked me through the results of each of the charts and what they all mean. He never once made me feel uncomfortable asking questions (even when they were on the dumb side).

Next D-Nice then started working his magic. He was very methodical and it was obvious that he takes a great deal of pride in his work. He allowed me to sit right there and "stare over his shoulder" which was wonderful (hopefully this didn't bother him - if it did he didn't act like it at all). He continued to tell me why he was doing what he was doing and let me really watch him work through getting the picture as perfect as possible. He worked through all of the settings including setting up the advanced cinema settings and then went over the final results with me.

Finally he said, "let's see some content". He packed up his stuff while I viewed some live Dish Network content as well as some scenes from the Spiderman 3 Blu Ray. I have since watched a couple more blu rays as well as some television (including the Dish 1080p content of the month).

In summary I am nothing short of amazed at the difference the calibration made. To be clear I was previously using D-Nice's offsets (via controlcal) and the final difference is substantial (in both setting numbers and viewing pleasure). So any of you who think you are getting the most out of your display by just using offsets, time to pony up and do a real calibration. I assure you, that you will not be disappointed. I have attached my before and after reports below for anyone that wants to take a look.

Excellent report on all counts! Thanks for posting
post #11475 of 14722
A few questions regarding the 5020..

I'm currently using D-Nice's post breakin settings for Blu-ray playback via PS3 and it's very nice. But how about dvds? Can someone link me to his post for reference settings on sd content, or am I fine using the same settings?

Also, I'm using Western Digital's media player box instead of PS3 because it gives a substantial increase in pq for dvds. Unless, someone can recommend their PS3 settings.

Finally, I'm using the "Smooth" mode instead of "Advance" because to my eyes, it just seems sharper and better motion. I realize many will call this a gimmick, but I bought this set knowing it had superb colors AND motion, and seems to give me the best of both worlds (amp,motionfow) to set it on Smooth with D-Nice settings. If I'm a sucker for razor sharp images, is it okay to bump the sharpness to 0 or higher.. or is this bringing in too much noise? and I can't seem to find digital noise reduction which would seem to help with dvds, then again I'm not sure I'm using the right settings. Help!

Sorry for all the questions.
post #11476 of 14722
The greyscale update for 72 hz was very easy. What peace of mind to know I can now use any PC mode without worrying about changing the greyscale.

Just want to thank Turbe, D-Nice, and Razi for enabling us to do this. I think we forget sometimes that we purchased a NE model. These kind of updates were not intended for us, yet thanks to the hard work and generosity of the above people we have made our sets amazing.
post #11477 of 14722
Quote:
Originally Posted by PathofNeo View Post

...or am I fine using the same settings?...because to my eyes, it just seems sharper and better motion....

Standard def stuff, DVDs included, have a different color space than high def, but in reality, unless you can easily toggle between them, you'll just set and forget for playing the discs. Calibrate on the BluRay, and just play the DVDs without worrying about it. And, they're your eyes, and you need to be happy with the picture, despite anything you read here, so continue to use Smooth! And, you won't lose your membership if you don't use Movie either!!!
post #11478 of 14722
Quote:
Originally Posted by PathofNeo View Post

Also, I'm using Western Digital's media player box instead of PS3 because it gives a substantial increase in pq for dvds. Unless, someone can recommend their PS3 settings.

I use a PS3 with my 6020 and have been delighted with the job the PS3 does of upconverting DVDs to 1080p. In fact, it's the best upconverting DVD player I have ever seen. For that reason, I have set the PS3 to upconvert everything to 1080p.
post #11479 of 14722
Thread Starter 
The Service Manual and everything in it is geared towards service techs. It DOES NOT contain every item/screen/code that is built into the firmware nor does it have everything that people on the assembly lines use. The Service Manual is also designed to be a generic manual that can be used for both the non-Elites and Elites (the Elites have a separate addendum Service Manu that includes some minor items). If that is the case, explain why Pure, ISF-Auto, ISF-Day, ISF-Night A/V modes are available to see per commends listed in the Service Manual (and ControlCAL), yet are not active, regardless of what you attempt to save, outside of the Service Menu.

FAY and PFY are two commands that ControlCAL arleady uses. Has it helped with what I pointed out yet????

Again, I've already tried to do the things you claim are achieveable per the Service Manual last year. The Service Manual is worthless when it comes to what I pointed out and unless you have access to Engineering Commands, you will soon find out that I was correct.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmart080 View Post

Dnice, with all due respect, I'm not sure if what you say is accurate. The service manual indicates that the RGB xy plots are saved in the same active u-comm and in the same factory mode as are the RGB white balance settings which we know can be changed and saved. Moreover, some of these settings such as gamma appear as though they can be changed without even accessing the "factory mode" but by straight RS232 commands or through a service remote control. But if a setting does require being in factory mode, then that can be accessed via one of two RS232 commands, FAY or PFY. It is my belief that nearly everything in the service manual can be adjusted and be made to stick or there wouldn't be any need for putting it in, and in the rare instances where a variable cannot be permanently changed it is duly noted in the manual.

Now I realize you've been told one thing, and this may or may not be true, but I still have my doubts as I see no reference to any special codes or keys in this manual. My work experience with industrial controls and having to troubleshoot a lot of automated industrial equipment by pouring through their manuals and program code tells me that once you have access to the firmware or software residing on a PLC or controller you generally have the ability to make the necessary changes. Basically, once you're in you can begin. The things that cannot be changed are the things to which there is no access whatsoever which is usually prohibited by codes, keys, or passwords, hence, you will never see the things you are prohibited to change in the first place. Granted, there are some things that cannot be done here... you mention additional menus, A/V mode, even ISF capability, and I concur that this is likely not even a remote possibility as there is absolutely no reference at all to any of that in the service manual. But I do believe that what can be accessed can be changed and preserved. Obviously, there is certainly some risk to fiddling around with any setting, but what can easily be done can usually be easily undone, too.

I've given the 200 page service manual a pretty thorough read several times now and from what I can tell there is no mention at all of any special commands and no mention that nothing can't stick. On the contrary, there are literally hundreds of RS232 commands and value setting ranges mentioned that can be effected via a service remote or the service connection and software like CC. Granted, this manual isn't a well written document in that there is very little to help one understand the technical jargon of TV repair, but my guess is that the intended audience already has a pretty thorough knowledge of what is being covered via training, experience, etc.

I guess what I'm saying with the above soliloquy is this... that to say with certainty that something cannot be done based on just the experience of one, is in my opinion a bit premature and many times proven false. How does that saying go, two heads are better than one. Well, there appears to be scores of heads on this board and I think that collectively we might still be able to uncover further calibration adjustment capabilities of the G9 NE Pioneer's.

Best Regards,

Cmart
post #11480 of 14722
Glad the smooth issue came up as I've done some playing around with it the last 2 nights.

T3: the scene starting with the Beverly Hills sign and panning right to the window display where the chick terminator 'materializes'. There is a lot of judder on the Beverly Hills text, vertical elements of the buildings, mannequins, etc. it's everywhere. Smooth pretty much eliminates all this judder. However, it also creates some funkiness with one of the opening credits which appears during the pan.

A Bug's Life: Opening shot panning up from the water through the dried/cracked ground to the tree. Lots of judder there on the dried/cracked ground which Smooth handles pretty well. It sorta looks like its starting to judder when it gets to the dried ground and then locks on.

I realize this is pretty minimal but it looks promising. I'm really new to this tv and I sorta have the impression that everyone hates Smooth for some reason. Curious about others opinions. Is there a thread where Smooth is specifically discussed?
post #11481 of 14722
Quote:
Originally Posted by wbrett View Post

Glad the smooth issue came up as I've done some playing around with it the last 2 nights.

T3: the scene starting with the Beverly Hills sign and panning right to the window display where the chick terminator 'materializes'. There is a lot of judder on the Beverly Hills text, vertical elements of the buildings, mannequins, etc. it's everywhere. Smooth pretty much eliminates all this judder. However, it also creates some funkiness with one of the opening credits which appears during the pan.

A Bug's Life: Opening shot panning up from the water through the dried/cracked ground to the tree. Lots of judder there on the dried/cracked ground which Smooth handles pretty well. It sorta looks like its starting to judder when it gets to the dried ground and then locks on.

I realize this is pretty minimal but it looks promising. I'm really new to this tv and I sorta have the impression that everyone hates Smooth for some reason. Curious about others opinions. Is there a thread where Smooth is specifically discussed?


I have often wondered is I should try SMOOTH more often. From reading on here I found it difficult to stray from the norm when it came to certain settings. At the beginning I was always using MOVIE, Sharpness dialed down to -15, and never using SMOOTH except for Hockey. (The camera pans so often in Hockey it was driving me nuts and SMOOTH seems to help.) At time when watching and the camera pans, I literally look away until it ends as it bothers me that much. I think I may try SMOOTH for other things. I've also started using GAME mode for some content and Sharpness up to "0". Like someone said, they are my eyes. Until I get it professionally calibrated, I'll play around.

My question is, do top of the line LCD televisions (120hz or 240 hz) handle that camera panning, fast motion better than the Pioneer Kuro NE? I'd love to hear some opinions or expereinces.
post #11482 of 14722
I just completed PC Adv Calibration (more like copy) with the new ControlCal profile. It was quick and painless, and now i can calibrate with PC off to reign in the grayscale for game while using PC Adv for movie. Thanks to all who made it happen!

Quote:
Originally Posted by KCinWhitby View Post

Thanks DKwong, Here is exaclty what I am doing and maybe you can point me to what I am missing.
1) Open ControlCal, load the profile for version 10
2) Press Calibration ON
3) Select Pattern 1, then press send, screen goes white
4) Select Frequency 5, Press Send. Screen is still white
5) A/V Selection: 3, Press Send, Screen Still White
6) Pure Cinema: 3, Press Send, SCreen Still White
7) Press Mute on Display until Panel Factory (+), screen comes back
8) Press Enter and up/down until "Raster Mask Setup"
9) Press Enter, and go to "A3W3/72VS" and screen goes white

Now from here how do I get those factory settings?

Two more questions for you or anyone that knows:

Once I have my original settings, and know the new values using the offsets, Can I simple do steps 1 - 6 above and also enter / send the offsets with the white screen?

Any value to sending it a blu ray signal with 24fps while doing this?

Thanks again,

I'm not sure how you would get your PC Adv Offsets, I would think that they should be the same as factory offsets for 60Hz. They have to at least be close otherwise there would have been differences in the grayscales between PC modes before any calibration. Following your steps only got me my previously calibrated offsets and I didn't pay too close attention to see if i saw any offsets different from the original factory or previously calibrated offsets that would represent PC Adv factory offsets. I guess my answer is I don't have one, but that's a good question.

If you are just copying your calibrate PC off RGB Highs/Lows, steps 7-9 are unnecessary. Using the ControlCal profile, once you get to step 6, the next thing is to just start sending your previously calibrated (or D-Nice offsets) RGB Highs/Lows with the sliders.

The pattern 1 screen can be handy for quick measuring and calibrating of both 60Hz and 72Hz for the desired PC and AV modes using the new CC profile. Just my observations.
post #11483 of 14722
After copying my original calibration offsets to PC Adv, I quickly calibrated Standard down to 7100k with PC Off and did a quick measure of all the modes to demonstrate the flexibility offered by the new ControlCal profile.

PC Off
Sport ~7600k
Game ~7600k
Standard ~7100k
Optimum ~6500k
Performance ~7100k
Dynamic ~8300k

PC Adv
Movie ~6500k
Optimum ~8200k
post #11484 of 14722
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmart080 View Post

Dnice, with all due respect, I'm not sure if what you say is accurate. The service manual indicates that the RGB xy plots are saved in the same active u-comm and in the same factory mode as are the RGB white balance settings which we know can be changed and saved.
Cmart

I can't speak to the multitude of options available in the service manual, but the RGB xy plots are definitely configurable and persistent. I don't have an accurate enough colorimeter to attempt altering the primary colors, however, as proof of concept, I was able to alter and save the Rx value from 499 to 498.

Below is the output from the QPF command before and after reset/restart:

QPF320***23212321****11****499431555414490503******128128128************AC

QPF320***23212321****11****498431555414490503******128128128************AB
post #11485 of 14722
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by razi View Post

I can't speak to the multitude of options available in the service manual, but the RGB xy plots are definitely configurable and persistent. I don't have an accurate enough colorimeter to attempt altering the primary colors, however, as proof of concept, I was able to alter and save the Rx value from 499 to 498.

Below is the output from the QPF command before and after reset/restart:

QPF320***23212321****11****499431555414490503******128128128************AC

QPF320***23212321****11****498431555414490503******128128128************AB

Changing a value in the Service Menu and seeing an actual result outside of the Service Menu are two different items

Also, you might want to find out what those controls are for because they are for more than one thing You can, and will, screw up your panel by playing with items you do not fully understand. Then again, its your panel and you cannot blame anyone for the outcome beyond yourself when something goes wrong.
post #11486 of 14722
Quote:
Originally Posted by dponeill View Post

I couldn't say that for sure. I never took any measurements at 72 hz. The only thing you could really infer from what I did is that if you set the gains in 60 hz and 72 hz the same, the greyscale should be the same. In other words, if you take your 60 hz numbers and enter them for the 72 hz mode the results should be virtually the same.

Hmm, which would seem to imply that any differences applied against the grayscale values for a given scan rate are minimal and difficult to detect visually?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rlumdds View Post

Hi All:

I am looking to purchase a 6020. I live in Los Angeles. Probably purchase over the internet from authorzied dealer to keep costs down. Does anyone know a good reputable technician who can set up the set and calibrate? Can you give me a range of charge for this setup with calibration. Thanks very much!

David Abrams did a great job on my calibration and I believe he's out of your general vicinity. Here's a list for CA Non-Elite calibrators.
post #11487 of 14722
Quote:
Originally Posted by PathofNeo View Post

A few questions regarding the 5020..
....
Finally, I'm using the "Smooth" mode instead of "Advance" because to my eyes, it just seems sharper and better motion. I realize many will call this a gimmick, but I bought this set knowing it had superb colors AND motion, and seems to give me the best of both worlds (amp,motionfow) to set it on Smooth with D-Nice settings.

Smooth gives a little of something in your Plasma that's normally an LCD feature (because it's needed more there) so if you like it then take advantage of it. Sometimes you may see it clearly helping create a smoother effect and other times creating artifacts. You can always use on a case by case basis depending on specific movie.

Quote:


Smooth mode has motion processing applied and new frames are interpolated to fill in "gaps" between frames to make motion look smoother. Smooth can produce motion artifacts that are not in the movie, but on the whole it fixes about 10 problems for every 1 it introduces. Smooth mode operates at 60Hz. You get very SLIGHTLY smoother motion all the time... big problems you see in the movie with no processing are better but not necessarily completely gone.

The "new" motion problems Smooth causes annoys a lot of people and they stop using it. I don't like it either, but when Smooth is undetectable for 2 hours, fixes 4 or 5 minutes of jerky motion during the 2 hours and causes 1 jerky artifact that lasts for 3 seconds during those 2 hours... it seems like it does more good than harm. It's not perfect, but it is interesting.



Quote:


If I'm a sucker for razor sharp images, is it okay to bump the sharpness to 0 or higher.. or is this bringing in too much noise? and I can't seem to find digital noise reduction which would seem to help with dvds, then again I'm not sure I'm using the right settings. Help!

Sorry for all the questions.

On this set several have found sharpness anywhere from -15 to -9 useful. My pro calibration ended up at -12. Sharpness too high however and you may actually be introducing some minor artifacting and obscuring some detail. The hdmi-pc mode is the most finely detailed.
post #11488 of 14722
Quote:
Originally Posted by matthevil View Post

After copying my original calibration offsets to PC Adv, I quickly calibrated Standard down to 7100k with PC Off and did a quick measure of all the modes to demonstrate the flexibility offered by the new ControlCal profile.

PC Off
Sport ~7600k
Game ~7600k
Standard ~7100k
Optimum ~6500k
Performance ~7100k
Dynamic ~8300k

PC Adv
Movie ~6500k
Optimum ~8200k

Excellent.

My intention is to use one grayscale with Standard Mode calibration which will produce similar results to what you post for all of the A/V modes while keeping the other grayscale for Movie Mode.

Quote:


I'm not sure how you would get your PC Adv Offsets, I would think that they should be the same as factory offsets for 60Hz. They have to at least be close otherwise there would have been differences in the grayscales between PC modes before any calibration.

I would think if you derive your calibrated RGB values for standard mode per normal ControlCal procedure and then plug them in for the 72Hz scan rate (or for the 60Hz) that should get you pretty close.
post #11489 of 14722
Quote:
Originally Posted by PathofNeo View Post

Finally, I'm using the "Smooth" mode instead of "Advance" because to my eyes, it just seems sharper and better motion. I realize many will call this a gimmick, but I bought this set knowing it had superb colors AND motion, and seems to give me the best of both worlds (amp,motionfow) to set it on Smooth with D-Nice settings. If I'm a sucker for razor sharp images, is it okay to bump the sharpness to 0 or higher.. or is this bringing in too much noise? and I can't seem to find digital noise reduction which would seem to help with dvds, then again I'm not sure I'm using the right settings. Help!

Sorry for all the questions.

I tried out Smooth mode for a little bit, but as soon as I saw an artifact (during the rope sliding scene at the beginning of Dark Knight, there were ghost images of the two guys as they were sliding), I turned it off. I find Standard and Advance mode for 24fps movies plenty smooth enough.
post #11490 of 14722
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Changing a value in the Service Menu and seeing an actual result outside of the Service Menu are two different items
.

I'm not sure what you're saying here? Does your experience suggest that simply changing a value and having it reflected outside the service menu is not enough to indicate a change? It would be very helpful if you chose to share some of your experiences.

As I said, I have no accurate way of measuring the xy values of the primary colors. All I can report is that the value for Rx returned by the display is now set to 498.

I have no intention of 'blaming' anyone if I render my display inoperable. By the same token, I'm not exactly changing arbitrary values without some basic idea of what they do...

I know a lot of people take all of this very seriously, but this is, after all, just a TV. A toy by any reasonable definition...
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