AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 391

post #11701 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by bodosom View Post

All electronics benefit from clean power but a surge protector doesn't provide that. The best way is a carefully built inverter driven from a sturdy battery. This can sometimes be found in a (pricey) UPS.

any suggestions...
post #11702 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by KCinWhitby View Post

When we looked at the Pre-Calibration, MOVIE was at about 8000k, so I just decided to bring that to 6500k, and still bringing down the other modes from what they were at.

The weird thing is MOVIE was at 8000k and that was after I used D-Nice Offsets so those offsets did not bring my TV close to 6500k. (But I have to admit they made my picture better than out of the box.)

That is suprising. I don't think I've ever heard of Movie Mode at 8000k. Not to say it isn't possible but it would seem to contradict D-Nice's posts about the +5% -5% tolerance of Kuros from factory. Then again on second thought, considering that the offsets would raise your temp a little perhaps your out of box was 7000+

If you're happy with your results however then congrats.
post #11703 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dahlsim View Post

That is suprising. I don't think I've ever heard of Movie Mode at 8000k....

My first thought was that he had done something wrong when he first tried putting in the offsets via ControlCal on his own.
post #11704 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by sigs21 View Post

any suggestions...

You would be looking for a "double conversion" UPS. An example would be the
Tripp Lite SU1000RTXL2UA which can run "on-line" or "double conversion". This is a 1kVA unit for about $550 (plus shipping).
post #11705 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dahlsim View Post

That is suprising. I don't think I've ever heard of Movie Mode at 8000k. Not to say it isn't possible but it would seem to contradict D-Nice's posts about the +5% -5% tolerance of Kuros from factory. Then again on second thought, considering that the offsets would raise your temp a little perhaps your out of box was 7000+

If you're happy with your results however then congrats.


It really surprised me too when I saw the 8000. It didn't seem to bother Mark.

We ended up with color at -7 to -9 in MOVIE. So that is quite different than the norm on here too.

One thing was really interesting is that Mark had us watch a bit of The Fifth Element and Leeloo hair was an incredible bright orange. In most sets it was always closer to Red. (I hope it is supposed to be orange. LOL)

I always question the picture quality and was fumbling around last night trying to find a nice HD signal. I found a few that seemed DULL and no pop at all so I played around with GAME and STANDARD and got some pretty nice pictures. Then I tried TRUE BLOOD in HD and back to MOVIE mode and WOW, it just popped off the screen like it was in 3D. Truly beautiful. So back to being disapponted about the inconsistencies of what my cable company can give me.

I even watched Hockey last night in HD and I still prefer SPORT for that. It really makes everything look better. MOVIE was way too dull and the colors on the jersey's had no pop at all. I always did like SPORT for hockey so I am glad I didn't screw that up.

One thing I think I found out though is my thinking was wrong in my wonderful set it and forget it idea. The Pure Cinema does not hold for different inputs. For instance, I wanted to set INPUT 6 for my PVR and have Pure Cinema: OFF. I was hoping I could simply switch to INPUT 5 for my Blu-Ray and it would go to Pure Cinema: Advance. Unfortunately it holds onto Pure Cinema: OFF so I have to remember to change it when I watch Blu-Ray.

So for a true set and and forget it I should have calibrated STANDARD or GAME with PC: OFF.

Unless I am missing something. Can anyone confirm that the A/V MODES will keep the same Pure Cinema setting regardless of the INPUT?
post #11706 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by KCinWhitby View Post

Can anyone confirm that the A/V MODES will keep the same Pure Cinema setting regardless of the INPUT?

The input only remembers the AV mode, it doesn't care about the settings within the AV mode (PC, Contrast, etc.). You will have to switch the PC mode for the AV mode if the different inputs use the same AV mode.
post #11707 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by KCinWhitby View Post

It really surprised me too when I saw the 8000. It didn't seem to bother Mark.

We ended up with color at -7 to -9 in MOVIE. So that is quite different than the norm on here too.

One thing was really interesting is that Mark had us watch a bit of The Fifth Element and Leeloo hair was an incredible bright orange. In most sets it was always closer to Red. (I hope it is supposed to be orange. LOL)

I always question the picture quality and was fumbling around last night trying to find a nice HD signal. I found a few that seemed DULL and no pop at all so I played around with GAME and STANDARD and got some pretty nice pictures. Then I tried TRUE BLOOD in HD and back to MOVIE mode and WOW, it just popped off the screen like it was in 3D. Truly beautiful. So back to being disapponted about the inconsistencies of what my cable company can give me.

I even watched Hockey last night in HD and I still prefer SPORT for that. It really makes everything look better. MOVIE was way too dull and the colors on the jersey's had no pop at all. I always did like SPORT for hockey so I am glad I didn't screw that up.

One thing I think I found out though is my thinking was wrong in my wonderful set it and forget it idea. The Pure Cinema does not hold for different inputs. For instance, I wanted to set INPUT 6 for my PVR and have Pure Cinema: OFF. I was hoping I could simply switch to INPUT 5 for my Blu-Ray and it would go to Pure Cinema: Advance. Unfortunately it holds onto Pure Cinema: OFF so I have to remember to change it when I watch Blu-Ray.

So for a true set and and forget it I should have calibrated STANDARD or GAME with PC: OFF.

Unless I am missing something. Can anyone confirm that the A/V MODES will keep the same Pure Cinema setting regardless of the INPUT?


We have a tweaker here!!

I've found movie mode + D-nice offsets (+10 for B high) + 72hz advance mode to be my "set and forget" setting for just about everything. I used to be a tweaker like you and eventually got tired of switching settings and forgetting to switch it back.

Eventually you're going to have to just "enjoy the music" or in this case "enjoy the picture" instead of constantly wondering "how could I make this better". You can thank my GF for slapping me every time I would go into the setup menu during movies. Who says shock therapy doesn't work?

Former tweaker,
James
post #11708 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by matthevil View Post

The input only remembers the AV mode, it doesn't care about the settings within the AV mode (PC, Contrast, etc.). You will have to switch the PC mode for the AV mode if the different inputs use the same AV mode.

The exception to this rule is 'Standard' mode. That mode will retain different settings for each input.
post #11709 of 14721
Ok I'm a new 5020 owner (about 40 hours into my break-in with the thumbdrive files) and I have some questions that i know the experts here can help me with.

1) When plugging in a pc via hdmi, do you switch the hdmi video type to "PC" instead of "Video". I noticed when I do that I don't have any over/under scan problems (as per what the manual states) but my av selections are limited to user/standard and screen size is either full/4:3. Is this recommended, or should I just leave it on video where I can choose dot by dot and all the av selections? Oh and if I do stick with leaving it on PC, should I have that source calibrated?

2) While watching the break-in slides I don't notice much difference between the multiple red/green/blue slides. What I mean by that is when the 5 blue slides cycle through they pretty much look the same. Same goes with green and red. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong? (I'm using D's recommended break-in settings).

3) Is there anyway to rename the digital channels the TV picks up after doing a scan? I'm with comcast and don't have one of their boxes but after a scan it picks up quite a few qam channels (I'm guessing). The problem is the majority of channels just come up with a number (000###.#### or some such) instead of a name. The exception to this are my local channels which I assume are broadcasting that information with their data stream. The crazy big numbers make it difficult to remember which channel is which.

4) Does the 5020 offer a way to bring up a tv guide listing that shows a number of channels and whats on them? On the few channels my guide actually works on the information is only displayed once you hit the "display" button on the remote or temporarily once you change the channel. It would be nice to see a number of channels at the same time.

I think that's it for right now. Thanks in advance for the help.
post #11710 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrinklefree View Post

We have a tweaker here!!

I've found movie mode + D-nice offsets (+10 for B high) + 72hz advance mode to be my "set and forget" setting for just about everything. I used to be a tweaker like you and eventually got tired of switching settings and forgetting to switch it back.

Eventually you're going to have to just "enjoy the music" or in this case "enjoy the picture" instead of constantly wondering "how could I make this better". You can thank my GF for slapping me every time I would go into the setup menu during movies. Who says shock therapy doesn't work?

Former tweaker,
James

Agreed. Just applied D-Nice's offsets to both the 60 and 72hz tables for Movie mode, use PC Standard, and leave it alone. 72hz will only kick in for blu-ray only, but that's all I really want it for anyway.
post #11711 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by razi View Post

The exception to this rule is 'Standard' mode. That mode will retain different settings for each input.

Completely forgot about that. Thanks.
post #11712 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by mastermaybe View Post

"Stunned" as to why someone would want to duplicate their laptop on their HT? Why? The internet (and your own HDD for that matter) opens up access to BILLIONS of pictures, music videos and other media that you would never normally have access to.

pretty straightforward, really.


James

Except that 99% of internet content is SD-quality or much much much worse. You don't get Blu-ray quality audio or video over the internet - it would take DAYS to download anything that will exploit the performance of a Kuro display. Even "DVD quality" downloads via an internet connection are worse than SD video from cable or satellite because the vast majority of the time, the "DVD quality" has been further compromised by cranking up the compression to get the file size reasonable. So you end up with an already-compressed video that is compressed more - so they compress the compression. That's not the way to enjoy the performance of a Kuro display... but to each his own.

Personally, I'm more interested in how to get more Blu-ray quality programming for good displays than I am about getting internet on my display - but to each his own.
post #11713 of 14721
hi ,
i just up graded to a kuro 5020 and its awesome. i have to questions but there is a billion posts here and i don't want to read all of them, so my tv runs pretty hot is this normal? and i bought my kuro as an open box item which did not have the remote but i own an pioneer sc o5 receiver and lucky its remote operates the basic options but i really want to get into the menu and look around and i can't seem to figure it out. any ideas? i did purchase a Logitech 880 i am just waiting for it to come
post #11714 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by sigs21 View Post

Does the 111fd benefit at all from clean power..

I need to get a new surge any way to hook up the Tv just was wonder for any suggestions..

It all depends on what you mean by "clean power".

This is not to brag but to explain the basis for my comments - in the last 15 years, I have professionally reviewed about 90 power-related products - power conditioners, UPS systems, voltage regulators... you name it. I am also an engineer with training in power supply design and agency compliance (to see products around the world, you have to test them for any RF and EMI emissions through the air and through the power cord and if any frequency exceeds the allowed limits by any government agency, you have to eliminate the problem or not sell your product there).

My first comment is that any power product with an uninterruptible power supply (battery backup) is absolutely worthless in a home theater system with any display except a projection system with a lamp. When there is a lamp, it's worthwhile to have a battery backup for a couple of minutes so you can turn off the display and let the cooling fans remove the heat from the lamp area. LCD and plasma displays are TOTALLY unaffected by the power going off - as long as you protect the display from surges or spikes or brown-outs while the power is going off or trying to come back on. That's where the surge/spike protection and over/under voltage protection come in - along with protection from bad things like lightning strikes that cause very large spikes.

If something compells you to add a UPS system, understand that you WILL have to replace the battery periodically. And also understand that there are 2 types of UPS... those that produce terrible AC quality (square wave, triangle wave or sawtooth wave) instead of nice smooth sine waves. These are unacceptable for many home theater components that can actually be damaged by those high frequency transitions in the square/triangle/sawtooth waveforms. The only UPS products that are acceptable for home theater systems are those that produce "sine wave output" or "pure sine wave output" or something like that. Even then, these products typically have 2 large spikes for each AC cycle and I'm not crazy about subjecting home theater components to those spikes (I've measured these at the output of the UPS - clearly the "spike protection" in the UPS did not remove those spikes). Those issues are why I never recommend UPS systems with battery backup power for home theater systems... unless there is a projection lamp in the system. Then a sine-wave UPS for the projection product alone is appropriate - but all other products connect to a non-UPS power conditioner.

What you do want in a power conditioner for a home theater is:
- surge protection (the more joules, the better)
- spike protection
- power line noise reduction/filtering
- Overvoltage protection - power is removed from connected components if the AC power line exceeds 130-140 VAC.
- Undervoltage protection - power is removed from connected components if the AC power line voltage goes below about 90 VAC
- If you have any components in your system connected to a telephone line, there should be a telephone surge/spike protection connection'
- If you have an antenna, cable or satellite coax connected to your system there should be a coax surge/spike protection for each type of coax connected to your system
- If you have ethernet connected to your system, the power conditioner should have an ethernet surge/spike protection connection

That sort of product will protect your system.

If you were intending your original question to ask if there was any benefit to image quality from using a power conditioner with a video display... I can say without reservation, that I've never seen ANY change of any kind in image quality on a digitital video display being driven by HDMI sources whether the display was plugged into a wall or into a $6000+ power conditioning system (including balanced power). Absolutely ZERO change in image quality on these displays (LCD, plasma, DLP, LCoS, DILA). In the days of CRT and analog source components... yes, power conditioners could and would improve image quality. In the days when panel displays first began appearing but had to support analog source components... in THOSE cases you could reap some image quality benefits from power conditioning. But in the last 4 years +/-, I've never seen a digital display that was improved in any way by connecting it to a power conditioner. That said, there may be a few exceptions - I've spent little time with lower-cost brands or smaller screen-sizes, so my comments really apply to 50" and larger displays made by "big name" manufacturers.

But - there is clearly value in protecting system components. One of the power products I reviewed not too long ago does everything in the list above for a fairly good price (not cheap though) - look for the Ultrapower products - well made, warranty covers damage to connected components if they are damaged in spite of being hooked up to the Ultrapower unit, they have both over-voltage and under-voltage protection (as long as you spend enough on the model you select for those features to be included). There are some power conditioners being sold with over-voltage protection but no under-voltage protection and some have neither, even though the prices are similar to the Ultrapower prices. Figure $300-$500 for a product like this.

Also consider that if you are using a plasma display in North America, the outlet you connect the plasma to needs to be able to deliver enough power for your plasma - for a 50" or larger plasma, that means 400-500 watts continuous rating (you'll probably use 250-390 watts most of the time, newer models are promising lower power consumption but I haven't seen enough to know if that's really true under real operating conditions). If the outlet is rated for 250 watts or 300 watts - that's too little power and you'll either damage the circuit connected to that outlet or the power conditioner will limit the current so much you get degraded performance from the display.
post #11715 of 14721
Hey Doug

Thanks for the very informative and interesting post.

I've noticed that many manufacturers do not specify watts, continuous or otherwise. They do, however, specify joules. For instance, the Ultrapower units of which you speak specify joules, no mention of watts.

Is there a rule of thumb for figuring out if a unit has enough power when they only specify joules?

Thanks.
post #11716 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by superstring View Post

Is there a rule of thumb for figuring out if a unit has enough power when they only specify joules?

A joule is a watt second, but what do you mean when you say "enough power"?
post #11717 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by bodosom View Post

A joule is a watt second, but what do you mean when you say "enough power"?

Hi bodosom.

Yeah, I know about the conversion. I probably didn't word my question very well. In the post above mine, Doug Blackburn says a surge protector should be able to "deliver enough power" for your plasma and that means 400 - 500 watts.

When I bought my 5020, I bought a Tripplite "Isobar" surge protector/line conditioner rated at 2850 joules. (Thinking about it, that probably means that's the size of spike that it will stop. And, if this is in fact the case, my question doesn't make much sense! ) However, there's no mention of what kind of power it can deliver to the attached components and, as I mentioned above, the Ultralink Ultrapower units Doug talked about also don't have power ratings on their website. Seeing as how this is an important spec, I'm surprised so few manufacturers give a figure.

EDIT: OK, I did some more research and found a wattage figure for my unit (there's nothing in the documentation that came with it). It's rated at 1440 watts. Since it has 6 outlets, would this mean each outlet is capable of delivering 1440/6 = 240 watts or would it mean that, in an extreme case, one outlet could deliver the full 1440 watts with the other 5 delivering nothing? (Sorry for all the dumb questions!)
post #11718 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by superstring View Post

I mentioned above, the Ultralink Ultrapower units Doug talked about also don't have power ratings on their website. Seeing as how this is an important spec, I'm surprised so few manufacturers give a figure.

I would assume that most surge suppressors sold in North America are rated for or have a breaker set for at least 15A since they are essentially an extension cord.
post #11719 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Blackburn View Post

It all depends on what you mean by "clean power".

This is not to brag but to explain the basis for my comments - in the last 15 years, I have professionally reviewed about 90 power-related products - power conditioners, UPS systems, voltage regulators... you name it. I am also an engineer with training in power supply design and agency compliance (to see products around the world, you have to test them for any RF and EMI emissions through the air and through the power cord and if any frequency exceeds the allowed limits by any government agency, you have to eliminate the problem or not sell your product there).

My first comment is that any power product with an uninterruptible power supply (battery backup) is absolutely worthless in a home theater system with any display except a projection system with a lamp. When there is a lamp, it's worthwhile to have a battery backup for a couple of minutes so you can turn off the display and let the cooling fans remove the heat from the lamp area. LCD and plasma displays are TOTALLY unaffected by the power going off - as long as you protect the display from surges or spikes or brown-outs while the power is going off or trying to come back on. That's where the surge/spike protection and over/under voltage protection come in - along with protection from bad things like lightning strikes that cause very large spikes.

If something compells you to add a UPS system, understand that you WILL have to replace the battery periodically. And also understand that there are 2 types of UPS... those that produce terrible AC quality (square wave, triangle wave or sawtooth wave) instead of nice smooth sine waves. These are unacceptable for many home theater components that can actually be damaged by those high frequency transitions in the square/triangle/sawtooth waveforms. The only UPS products that are acceptable for home theater systems are those that produce "sine wave output" or "pure sine wave output" or something like that. Even then, these products typically have 2 large spikes for each AC cycle and I'm not crazy about subjecting home theater components to those spikes (I've measured these at the output of the UPS - clearly the "spike protection" in the UPS did not remove those spikes). Those issues are why I never recommend UPS systems with battery backup power for home theater systems... unless there is a projection lamp in the system. Then a sine-wave UPS for the projection product alone is appropriate - but all other products connect to a non-UPS power conditioner.

What you do want in a power conditioner for a home theater is:
- surge protection (the more joules, the better)
- spike protection
- power line noise reduction/filtering
- Overvoltage protection - power is removed from connected components if the AC power line exceeds 130-140 VAC.
- Undervoltage protection - power is removed from connected components if the AC power line voltage goes below about 90 VAC
- If you have any components in your system connected to a telephone line, there should be a telephone surge/spike protection connection'
- If you have an antenna, cable or satellite coax connected to your system there should be a coax surge/spike protection for each type of coax connected to your system
- If you have ethernet connected to your system, the power conditioner should have an ethernet surge/spike protection connection

That sort of product will protect your system.

If you were intending your original question to ask if there was any benefit to image quality from using a power conditioner with a video display... I can say without reservation, that I've never seen ANY change of any kind in image quality on a digitital video display being driven by HDMI sources whether the display was plugged into a wall or into a $6000+ power conditioning system (including balanced power). Absolutely ZERO change in image quality on these displays (LCD, plasma, DLP, LCoS, DILA). In the days of CRT and analog source components... yes, power conditioners could and would improve image quality. In the days when panel displays first began appearing but had to support analog source components... in THOSE cases you could reap some image quality benefits from power conditioning. But in the last 4 years +/-, I've never seen a digital display that was improved in any way by connecting it to a power conditioner. That said, there may be a few exceptions - I've spent little time with lower-cost brands or smaller screen-sizes, so my comments really apply to 50" and larger displays made by "big name" manufacturers.

But - there is clearly value in protecting system components. One of the power products I reviewed not too long ago does everything in the list above for a fairly good price (not cheap though) - look for the Ultrapower products - well made, warranty covers damage to connected components if they are damaged in spite of being hooked up to the Ultrapower unit, they have both over-voltage and under-voltage protection (as long as you spend enough on the model you select for those features to be included). There are some power conditioners being sold with over-voltage protection but no under-voltage protection and some have neither, even though the prices are similar to the Ultrapower prices. Figure $300-$500 for a product like this.

Also consider that if you are using a plasma display in North America, the outlet you connect the plasma to needs to be able to deliver enough power for your plasma - for a 50" or larger plasma, that means 400-500 watts continuous rating (you'll probably use 250-390 watts most of the time, newer models are promising lower power consumption but I haven't seen enough to know if that's really true under real operating conditions). If the outlet is rated for 250 watts or 300 watts - that's too little power and you'll either damage the circuit connected to that outlet or the power conditioner will limit the current so much you get degraded performance from the display.

Thanks Doug.. .

I need to get two.. one for the plasma on the wall and for my other stuff. was looking at the a plug type for the wall the panamax outlets any thoughts; and the other needs to have about 6 sources.
post #11720 of 14721
Yes, the 1440 watts would be the equivalent of a safe load on a 15 amp circuit. However, you need to know what else, if anything, is on that same circuit. For HT, I would suggest two 20amp runs to the equipment area to be future proof, if possible. I only have one, and it's holding up fine, but I'm probably close to taxing it (2,000 watts safe load plus or minus).
post #11721 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Hef View Post

Yes, the 1440 watts would be the equivalent of a safe load on a 15 amp circuit. However, you need to know what else, if anything, is on that same circuit. For HT, I would suggest two 20amp runs to the equipment area to be future proof, if possible. I only have one, and it's holding up fine, but I'm probably close to taxing it (2,000 watts safe load plus or minus).

FWIW, and FYI, 1800 watts is the max for a typical residential 120VAC/15A outlet. 20A would be 2200 watts.
post #11722 of 14721
Yesterday I went to my local Bestbuy just to compare some of the models I've been thinking about. They had a display model 5020 marked at $1999, and as I negotiated they knocked another $100 off of the set. To make a long story short, I ended up coming home with the TV. I've always been wowed by the quality of the picture on the Pioneers, and I decided that picture quality was what was most important to me and that I probably would be less happy, in the long run, with any other new set I might spend my 2000 bucks on. They had new 5020's that they had priced at like $3500.

So I get the set home. I get it hooked up. The family is all excited. We want to try it out. So we rent The Dark Knight on blu-ray, which I load into the PS3 I also bought yesterday. By the time I did all this it was already pretty late-and pitch dark in the room. I started up the movie. Panic soon ensued.

One of the first things I see is a screen that I assume is supposed to be just solid black. But on my set, it looks pretty bad. I don't know how to describe it other than to say that it was all blotchy. Interestingly, this effect seemed to be only present when the screen was displaying total blackness. The movie itself was great. However, I spent the whole time worrying whether there was something wrong with the set, and that I had just bought a 2000 dollar lemon on impulse. The effect was back again at the end of the movie, but again, only on screens that were totally black. When, during the credits text would display, it seemed to go away. Looking at it this morning I don't see it at all, but that is probably because it is not pitch black in the room like last night.

So, here are my questions:

1. Was I stupid to buy a display model?

2. Did I get a halfway decent deal?

3. Is the effect I noticed a serious defect? Is this a known problem?

4. Is there something I can do to make it go away?

5. Is there some way for me to tell how many hours this set has already played in the store? Should I still use the break in files, or is it too late for that?

6. In my paperwork there is a paper for "Initial Setting", which apparently comes up only once, where you choose "Home" or "Retail" . I assume "Retail" was chosen for this set. Is there something I need to to do to change this setting to "Home"?

7. The three things that I also included in my deal, which I was least sure about were, a)calibration, b) 4 year service contract, c) a powercenter. Were these foolish purchases?

Sorry for the dumb questions. I would be grateful for any responses--especially about the blotchy business, which has me worried. Thanks.
post #11723 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint S. View Post

FWIW, and FYI, 1800 watts is the max for a typical residential 120VAC/15A outlet. 20A would be 2200 watts.

Your math is slipping...it's 2,400 watts, and you missed when I said "safe"!
post #11724 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrinklefree View Post

We have a tweaker here!!

I've found movie mode + D-nice offsets (+10 for B high) + 72hz advance mode to be my "set and forget" setting for just about everything. I used to be a tweaker like you and eventually got tired of switching settings and forgetting to switch it back.

Eventually you're going to have to just "enjoy the music" or in this case "enjoy the picture" instead of constantly wondering "how could I make this better". You can thank my GF for slapping me every time I would go into the setup menu during movies. Who says shock therapy doesn't work?

Former tweaker,
James

My girlfriend does the same thing to me when i reach for the remote to tweek! I have my movie mode finally to set and forget and Im lovin it!
post #11725 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by ptidman View Post

Yesterday I went to my local Bestbuy just to compare some of the models I've been thinking about. They had a display model 5020 marked at $1999, and as I negotiated they knocked another $100 off of the set. To make a long story short, I ended up coming home with the TV. I've always been wowed by the quality of the picture on the Pioneers, and I decided that picture quality was what was most important to me and that I probably would be less happy, in the long run, with any other new set I might spend my 2000 bucks on. They had new 5020's that they had priced at like $3500.

So I get the set home. I get it hooked up. The family is all excited. We want to try it out. So we rent The Dark Knight on blu-ray, which I load into the PS3 I also bought yesterday. By the time I did all this it was already pretty late-and pitch dark in the room. I started up the movie. Panic soon ensued.

One of the first things I see is a screen that I assume is supposed to be just solid black. But on my set, it looks pretty bad. I don't know how to describe it other than to say that it was all blotchy. Interestingly, this effect seemed to be only present when the screen was displaying total blackness. The movie itself was great. However, I spent the whole time worrying whether there was something wrong with the set, and that I had just bought a 2000 dollar lemon on impulse. The effect was back again at the end of the movie, but again, only on screens that were totally black. When, during the credits text would display, it seemed to go away. Looking at it this morning I don't see it at all, but that is probably because it is not pitch black in the room like last night.

So, here are my questions:

1. Was I stupid to buy a display model?

2. Did I get a halfway decent deal?

3. Is the effect I noticed a serious defect? Is this a known problem?

4. Is there something I can do to make it go away?

5. Is there some way for me to tell how many hours this set has already played in the store? Should I still use the break in files, or is it too late for that?

6. In my paperwork there is a paper for "Initial Setting", which apparently comes up only once, where you choose "Home" or "Retail" . I assume "Retail" was chosen for this set. Is there something I need to to do to change this setting to "Home"?

7. The three things that I also included in my deal, which I was least sure about were, a)calibration, b) 4 year service contract, c) a powercenter. Were these foolish purchases?

Sorry for the dumb questions. I would be grateful for any responses--especially about the blotchy business, which has me worried. Thanks.

No you got a great deal and your tv isn't a lemon. The Kuros have the best blacks in the biz but in total blackness with a black screen, you can still make out the screen. During the movie, the letterbox bars on the top and bottom of the screen look to dissapear in the set when the movie is on are the scene is bright. Some times the Kuros can look better if the room isn't completly dark and you have a little ambient lighting. But trust me, your screen with also smooth out and darken as the set goes past the 100 and 200 hour mark. My 5020 has and I love it, but I still am going to get it professionally calibrated with an ISF certified calibrater that uses ControlCal. You should too. It makes the 5020's look almost identical to the elite pro-111. But remeber, the only way to get an ISF calibration done on the 9G non-elites is to use ControlCal, so make sure your calibrator has that in his tool kit. Relax, you have one of the best HDTVs money can buy!!!
post #11726 of 14721
i don't know how you guys manage to get through this 150 hour "break-in" period i've read so much about here on AVS for the last week or two... major kudos to you guys, seriously!

i copied the thumbdrive images to a USB memory stick, but it'd basically get through all of them once and then throw and error about not being to read something... so i put in Disc 1 of Planet Earth and set it to repeat on my PS3 wednesday night, then switched to Disc 2 when i got home on thursday, and then Disc 3 friday evening... finally got around to setting up my computer and took a look at the thumbdrive, and it had all these "._" copies of the JPG's from when i copied it over on my macbook pro, which i thought was weird... deleted all of those, and some ".trash" directory i guess it created by default, and it's been running fine all day today.

trying like hell to practice some patience here, but man, it's certainly tough!

i've only watched The Dark Knight on the 6020, which looked awesome... can't wait for this to be over, though. ugh.
post #11727 of 14721
i have a 6020 display model that i bought at BB as well (got a great deal on it, which i was totally stoked over!), and would love to know how to see how many hours are on this thing as well.

also curious about a powercenter as well, as i see that many here seem to have them... what do they do exactly, and any suggestions on one?
post #11728 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by nulleffect View Post

also curious about a powercenter as well, as i see that many here seem to have them... what do they do exactly, and any suggestions on one?

You might want to read this. It was posted in this thread yesterday around noon.

The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread
post #11729 of 14721
I just hooked up a BDP 51FD blu ray player to my Kuro 5020. I have the HDMI Control set to on for both devices. Just to give you a brief background I experienced the same issue when I had my Sony 350 blu ray hooked up. When I switch to input 5 on my set and turn the BDP 51 on I get an error that says the device cannot be operated check the connections. Actually this error occurs when clicking on the home button on BDP 51 remote. It stays on the screen for a few seconds and disappears. If I turn off the HDMI control on the blu ray player then I don't get any error messages. If I check the settings under options/HDMI contol on the tv the power on and off buttons are grayed out. I also installed a brand new Monster HDMI Ultra spped cable. I can tell you that I recently installed the latest firmware (0905-0401) for the 5020 and I suspect there is a bug causing the problem. When I had firmware version 0904-0401 the HDMI control functions worked with the Sony player. I have called Pioneer about this (when the Sony player was hooked up) and they said it must be the Sony blu ray causing the problem. Well that isn't true especially since I have one of their products hooked up and get the same exact errors. Does anyone else have this setup and experience similar issues. Is there someone else at Pioneer that this can be reported to other than the customer service reps (they are totally clueless)? I guess the HDMI control thing isn't a big deal but for Gods sake you would think this function would work especially with two Pioneer products linked together.
post #11730 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

You might want to read this. It was posted in this thread yesterday around noon.

The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread

oh man, that was truly a great post and explained a lot! thanks man, appreciate it

/googles up "ultrapower"
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Plasma Flat Panel Displays
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread